Sounded to me like it was idling fairly high in the video.
Have you got the cable clipped into the rotating valve propperly???
Flick the cover off, peel the diaphragm back and check that its rotating when you move the throttle lever.
Check that its rotating all the way to the full open position. If its not, adjust the cable.
Ive also seen the plastic lug up in the air fitler housing that will not grip the cable, so when you move the throttle the inner and outer slide together.
If it wont rev, have you got the correct springs in it?? What have you swapped and changed??
The springs,
The spring under the diaphram cover pushes the poppet in to let more air in, and make it rev. If it wont rev or its not revving very hard it could be that this spring is not stiff enough. Air suction pulls the diaphragm back to govern speed.
The one under the diaphragm holds the poppet back/pulls the poppet shut. The Start wheel rotating will make the spring push back harder against the diaphragm to shut the valve or let off tension to let the other spring push the valve open.
Is the three legged star warped?? If it is get another one.
Do the legs of the star slide freely up and down in the body of the carb?? If they dont, file/sand paper them back so they do.
Is it flooded??? Engine off, fuel off. Its the number one Victa rule.
The fuel taps when stuffed can leak through the tap. Leave the line off the carb with the tap off and, you will soon get an idea if its leaking or not. I had one doing that yesterday. New tap is $6 from Bunnings.
If you are not sure if its flodded, rip the plug out and see if its wet. Pull the face off the carb and pull the motor over 10 or 20 times. Then put the face back on, turn on the fuel and keep pulling till it starts without priming. If it wont start at all its running lean.
Are you sure the jet is not blocked. Ive had them where you can get carb clean and air to blow through them but they wont make the motor run.
If you can get it to 'cough' a bit but it wont quite catch on, it my catch on if you keep pumping the primer. Its a good indicator that the jet or emulsion tube is blocked partly.
Every Victa carb is different. They are all the same (well they are not) but they are all different. Call it personality. Some work perfect, others wont idle, or idle so low they stall. Others wont start in the 'start' choke position, but will catch on straight away if put down to run. And if you want them to all work exactly the same its a whole lot of hair pulling and trial and error.
Hence i love a mower that comes to me with the carb on it all together just as it was the last time it ran.
Dont quote me, ive had nothing to do with the electricals on the twin. If its only got one stop wire it should have a second. That goes through as the cross pin and the other end will earth to the engine. The series 70 MKIII's (points ignition) are set up like this.
Look on the forum here, ive done a few write ups on what to do with the carbs. Theres also plenty of other info.
Im sure theres videos on youtube as well. I know there is one some young fella put up and it shows how to dissconnect the throttle cable.
The other difficulty is the Twin, markIV S70, V35, V40, etc. The carbs all look the same but you cant tell me that all these different motors work on exactly the same main jet. If they do its compensated for with the springs etc in the carbs. Mixture is a fine art.
Yeah it can get you pissed off. Its just a mower, if its winning just set it aside and do what you can about some extra info and a better attitude so you can go back and tackle it another day and kick its freakin arse.
Who cares if its days weeks or months, you will kick its butt.
Ok thats a bit of a rant, cant even be stuffed proof readin it.
Cheers, Bob.
Keep your chin up.
And dont go hitting it with anything, its not fair as it cant hit you back.
