OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads

Noted

Will consider that

Agree

Regards

Legend! Thankyou, that’s much appreciated. The engine code is 7509300 so it’s a late 1975 engine, which I guess makes it most likely a 1977 model mower?

The handlebars are a shame, and squished how they are I don’t think are repairable, so I’m searching for some.

Update....

When I reassembled the carb I set the poppet valve to the 'A' setting. I mowed for about 15 minutes on full throttle before the same problem of it starting the stall. I left it for the day then set the poppet valve to the 'C' setting.
Mowed with a full fuel tank on full throttle with no stalling. Re-fueled and mowed for another 15 minutes (I live on a large corner block) with full throttle.

I can't recall what the setting was before but would have been the 'A' setting as I recall the revs were lower than the 'C' setting. One thing I did notice is on the 'A' setting when it was idling the revs were very low but doesn't explain why it would suddenly start to stall after a while on full throttle when it was fine before. Anyway I may experiment with another poppet valve and see what happens.

Thanks for your replies.

Hammer and dolly seems like the most sensible option.

If you have taken the air filter cover of it is easy to remove the tank only 4 screws to undo to get it off.

Thanks for the reply. Crazy that the country is out of them.

Did manage to chop the bevel housing apart with an angle grinder and removed the wanted piece. It is Left hand thread and fits my Honda brushcutters, it is a pleasure to use, so easy to add some line and get to work.

While looking for something else I just discovered that mow parts sells 3/4" cotter pins.
https://mowpartsoz.com.au/collectio...clutch-cotter-pin?variant=38511663218839

So somewhere out there is a 3/4" clutch half that uses a cotter pin. Whether it's factory or aftermarket, who knows.

Hi Matt Midd,

Sorry for the late reply regarding your issue.

If you type in Cox 09J6 into the search box on the forum you will get quite a few post come up regarding that model including parts list etc which should assis you in fixing you problem.

Here is a link to one post that has quite a bit of information.CLICK HERE

Hi Domenic,

You could try typing back laping in the search bar at the top of the forum and you will see a lot of topics regarding the issue rather than try to look through the forums.

What we used in the past (many years ago) was use a retangle block of steel and drill holes in it and place a bolt in the centre with nut either side to lock it and then drill two other holes so that a bolt will fit into each side of the sprocket. Not hard to make no welding etc.

Hope that this is of some help to you.

Hi fiercertonks,

You need to replace the metering diaphragm as well also replace the fuel filter in the tank.

Google this part number, 16561-ZE7-020, Its from a Honda GXV120. It should fit and work just fine on your V40

Oh really might have to find another gear set and cut them both out. I was hoping others had this problem and found a fix for it

I purchased a 14" twin rail the other day which seems to be almost entirely original and I'm trying to figure out when it was made.

Some points of interest that might help with dating or just be for the sake of interest.

It looks to be Alpine Green with black side cover and handlebar plate.
It's got a brass dual name badge (model 450407) which in itself is interesting because another 14" frame i had with the same model number was also dual plate but was not brass.
It's got a cast iron clutch. Confirmed with a magnet but i didn't need to anyway because at some point in it's life it suffered some sort of injury near the cotter pin and has been brazed.
Speaking of cotter pins, it has a single cotter pin only. No secondary grub screw (unlike the aluminium clutch on my 14" daily driver).
It's running a Kirby Tecumseh HK25 (And it is running, although it wasn't when i got it).
The cutting reel bearings were the old style bearings that were open on one side.

Humorously the lever on the handlebars is held in place with a 1/4" bolt and two nuts.
Pretty sure that's not factory.

So with all of this info and things I've gleaned from these forums it's looking like this mower might be about 1975-76.

Hi Guys
Brilliant site for enthusiasts.

I have an old 240v electric SB I would like to repair. It's in very good condition, cuts well but clutch is worn out. I'm not sure how to pull the rear drum out to gain access without disassembling a whole side.
Any help would be appreciated.

A big shout out to those adding manuals, info and pics to the site. Invaluable. Helped me figure out what Model i have.

Cheers, Michael