OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads

Thanks Max for your detailed explanation and advice.

I haven’t attempted to adjust the governor for the high revving issue as I was thinking of resolving the idling issue first.

With your advice, I’ll try to look at adjusting the governor and see how it goes.

As you’ve indicated, I also suspected the intermediate circuit to be partially blocked (fuel path in the yellow cloud in attached photo). The other path (greenish arrows) is flowing freely in both direction when I sprayed carby cleaner from both ends. The path in the yellow cloud may not get sufficient clearance… I might pull the carby to try clean this path.

I’m considering the new carby option but wanted to exhaust all options before I proceed with that. Getting help from this forum is a step further and I’m glad I’m receiving the prompt response & help from you already.

Thanks for your advice. Will update status after I check / adjust the governor.

G'day,
Yes, it has an air vane choke system, I had the carby apart and the jet is tight and clean. But I will check the rocker adjustment and get back to you.

I'd probably just weigh the front down and put a roll bar on the back.

I still like these testers but not worth it for a $50. mower.



Cheers
Max.

Good call there AVB, something is obviously bent somewhere

It's about mid sixties and is a Pope mower base.

Hi Norm,

I've had this problem on old Victa 18's there's a few ways that will work but depends how bad it's stuck. I just cut the bolts with
a hacksaw the problem here is the bolts are low grade steel so a bit of force to undo them will snap them and hammering
mushrooms them making them impossible to remove.

You can heat the bolts underneath with the oxy ,once the nuts are removed , heat then spray with crc ,heat again spray with crc
a few goes of heating and spraying crc can work to loosen the corrosion and rust.( you want the lot upside down to do this)

If you hammer the bolts put a block of wood on them and hammer one at a time

You can't hammer them that much as mentioned before they will mushroom and makes them impossible to remove.

You can drill the bolts from underneath ,I mostly have drilled from the underside just so the top can't be damaged if the drill was to slip.
I would usually cut the bolts from underneath close to the base so there is less to drill.( bolt cutters and grinder usually work)

Some engine I've got 3 bolts to move but can't get the last one to move and have to drill it from underneath .



You can cut the bolts above the base or body then arc weld the nuts underneath the base to the bolts and then see if they will
undo with the rattle gun but best to undo by hand if you don't want them to brake and any movement you get , you keep slowly
tightening then loosening backwards then forwards with crc until they come out.

Only other way I've done it is to turn the lot upside down then with the nuts removed from the bolts put white Vinegar around the
threads , you can put paper towel around the threads this will keep them wet but you will need to keep putting a little vinegar
on the paper towel every day and could take 2 weeks to loosen.

The quickest way I think if it's completely stuck is cut the bolts on the top side wire brush the threads you can get to with a brush in
a drill then arc weld the nut on close to the underside of the base ,do one at a time ,try tightening and loosening to get it to move
but look on the other side make sure it's moving otherwise it will snap the bolt, If that doesn't work you have to drill them but if you drill
from the top sometimes you only drill half way and the nut that you welded will turn ,the weld gets the heat in as well, lots of crc.

Cheers
Max.

Hi AMP,

These Stihl FS36 line trimmers have a Ryobi engine.

I think of mostly 3 problems with these engines not running.

1 Is the motor in good mechanical condition (good compression ,crank seals not leaking etc)

2 Is the ignition working properly ,( good spark ,correct timing)

3 Is the fuel system working correctly.(fresh Fuel ,correct ratio fuel mix , carby and filters working )

This trio resolves 95%+ of field issues on consumer trimmers, but rare extras like exhaust restrictions or electrical shorts (kill switch) can mimic these. Still, starting here avoids unnecessary disassembly.

If it will run on a little fuel down the spark plug hole or fuel sprayed into the carby throat ,that should tell you the coil or ignition is good.

If no signs of firing it could have a bad coil or shorting wires or the plug connector is bad or the motor is in bad mechanical condition.

I usually grab another spark plug to use in the trimmer I'm fixing,I would get a plug out of a running mower or line trimmer so I know if the old plug is the problem as they have a habit of breaking down when hot or under load.

First test the trimmer with a good known spark plug that is running in another trimmer or mower.

Before pulling a carby apart I always test the fuel filter ,primer and fuel hoses first , as a slightly blocked filter or a hairline crack in a fuel
hose will stop the trimmer running and a bad primer can stop the engine running.

Temporary Fuel Supply Test for Line Trimmers
This procedure describes how to test a line trimmer’s carburetor using an external primer bulb and a cup of fuel. The goal is to confirm whether fuel‑delivery problems are caused by the original fuel lines or in‑tank fuel filter, rather than by the carburetor itself.
​

1. Safety information
Work in a well‑ventilated area away from flames, sparks, and hot surfaces.

Wear safety glasses and fuel‑resistant gloves.

Allow the trimmer engine and muffler to cool completely before starting work.

Use only fresh, correctly mixed 2‑stroke fuel in a clean container.
​

2. Required tools and materials
Clean fuel hose (correct size for the carburetor and primer fittings)

Remote/in‑line primer bulb

Small glass jar or cup for fuel

Fresh 2‑stroke fuel mixture

Screwdriver and/or small pliers (for clamps and covers)

Shop towels or rags for spills

3. Preparing the trimmer
Turn the trimmer OFF and move the stop switch to the OFF/STOP position.

Remove the spark plug cap to prevent accidental starting.
​

Place the trimmer on a stable, flat surface with the carburetor exposed and accessible.

Wipe away grass, dust, and debris from around the carburetor and fuel lines.

4. Disconnecting the original fuel supply
Identify the fuel line that feeds fuel from the tank to the carburetor inlet nipple. On most trimmers, this is the line coming from the tank (or in‑tank filter) to the carb body.
​

Carefully pull this line off the carburetor inlet. Use pliers if a clamp is installed.

Inspect the visible portion of the line for cracks, splits, or hardening, but do not rely solely on visual inspection at this stage.

5. Setting up the temporary fuel and primer system
Cut a length of clean fuel hose long enough to reach between the carburetor and your work area.

Push one end of this hose onto the carburetor fuel inlet nipple. Ensure it is fully seated.

Connect the free end of this hose to the OUT port of the primer bulb.

Attach another short length of fuel hose to the IN port of the primer bulb.

Place the free end of the hose from the IN port into a glass jar or cup filled with fresh 2‑stroke fuel. Ensure the hose end remains submerged in the fuel.
​

Note: In this configuration, the primer bulb will draw fuel from the cup on the IN side and push fuel toward the carburetor on the OUT side.

6. Priming and test running
With the cup of fuel positioned safely and upright, squeeze the primer bulb several times.

Observe the fuel movement in the hoses:

Fuel should be drawn from the cup through the hose into the IN side of the bulb.

Fuel should then be pushed from the bulb’s OUT side hose into the carburetor inlet.
​

Continue priming until:

The hoses are full of fuel with minimal air bubbles.

The primer bulb becomes firm, indicating the system is charged.

Refit the spark plug cap securely.

Start the trimmer using the normal starting procedure (choke/half‑choke as per the manufacturer’s instructions).
​

Allow the engine to run and observe:

If the engine starts, idles, and accelerates cleanly while being supplied from the cup, the carburetor is receiving adequate fuel from this temporary system.

7. Interpreting test results
7.1 Engine runs correctly on temporary fuel supply
If the engine runs normally using the jar‑and‑primer setup:

The carburetor is likely functioning correctly.

The fault is probably in the original fuel system, such as:

Split or cracked in‑tank fuel line

Split or cracked external fuel line

Blocked or heavily restricted in‑tank fuel filter

Kinked or collapsed line, or loose connections
​

In this case, proceed to Section 8 to repair or replace the original fuel components.

7.2 Engine will not run correctly on temporary fuel supply
If the engine still fails to start, runs poorly, or dies even with this temporary fuel setup:

The problem may lie in:

Carburetor internal passages (blockages)

Damaged diaphragms or metering components

Ignition system issues (weak/no spark)

Low compression or mechanical wear
​

Further carburetor servicing, ignition testing, or engine diagnosis will be required.

8. Inspecting and repairing the original fuel system
Empty the fuel tank or plug the opening to avoid spills.

Remove the fuel cap. Using a hooked wire or needle‑nose pliers, gently pull the in‑tank fuel filter and attached line out of the tank opening.
​

Inspect the in‑tank fuel line:

Look for splits, soft spots, brittleness, or sections that break easily.

Replace any damaged lines with new fuel‑rated hose of the correct size.

Inspect the fuel filter:

If the filter looks dirty, clogged, or very old, replace it with a new one of the same type.
​

Inspect the external fuel lines from tank to carburetor:

Check for cracks, hardness, or loose fittings.

Ensure there are no kinks and that routing is smooth.

Reinstall the new or inspected filter back into the tank and re‑route the lines to their correct carburetor connections.

Confirm all connections are tight and secure.

9. Final assembly and test
Reconnect the trimmer’s original fuel line to the carburetor inlet.

Refill the fuel tank with fresh 2‑stroke mix.

Use the machine’s own primer bulb (if equipped) to purge air and draw fuel into the carburetor.
​

Refit the spark plug cap, if removed.

Start the engine following the standard starting procedure.

Verify:

The engine starts reliably.

It idles steadily.

It accelerates to full throttle without hesitation or stalling.

If the engine runs correctly now, the issue was likely a split line or blocked filter that has been corrected. If symptoms persist, proceed to full carburetor inspection and service according to the engine manufacturer’s service manual.


The books tell you to check the following.

What to check first

Fuel quality and mix: Even if you’re sure it’s 2-stroke mix, old or contaminated fuel can cause stalling or failure to restart. Drain the tank, clean or replace the fuel filter, and use fresh pre-mixed fuel at the correct oil ratio for a two-stroke engine. If you’ve got ethanol-blended fuel, it can cause issues over time; consider using a fuel stabilizer or ethanol-free fuel where available.
​

Spark plug and ignition: Remove the spark plug, inspect the electrode gap, and clean or replace if fouled. A weak or fouled plug can cause hard starting or stalling after a stumble, and a loose boot or bad ignition coil can also cause intermittent failures. Reconnect the boot firmly after checking.
​

Air intake and fuel delivery: Check the air filter for clogging and clean or replace if dirty. A clogged air filter or a plugged diaphragm/needle in the carburetor can cause rich/poor running and stalling when you throttle up. If you’re comfortable, inspect the carburetor for gummed passages and clean with approved carb cleaner.
​

Carburetor and fuel system: If fuel is getting to the carb but engine won’t stay running, the carburetor may be gummed up from old fuel. A common fix is a thorough carb clean or professional rebuild kit, particularly if the idle and high-speed circuits are out of balance. Ensure the primer bulb (if present) pulls and primes properly.
​

Fuel lines and vacuum: Inspect fuel lines for cracks, brittleness, or disconnections, especially if the line head is due to being replaced anyway. A pinched or air-leaking line will cause the engine to stall or run lean/fuel-starved at full throttle. Replace any damaged lines.
​

Exhaust and spark arrestor: A blocked exhaust or spark arrestor screen can cause poor running or stalling under load. Remove and inspect the exhaust opening; clean out carbon buildup if present.
​

Starter and choke procedure: If the engine starts briefly and stalls, ensure you’re using the correct choke procedure for cold starts. Some units need a few primer pumps or a specific choke position; if flooded, wait 20-30 minutes with the choke off to clear the excess fuel.
​

Observations and next steps

If it starts briefly but dies when you apply full revs, suspect carb or fuel delivery (fuel starvation, rich/lean imbalance, or a flooded condition). Try starting with a fresh fuel mix, then apply a short, gradual throttle rather than full throttle to see if it can settle into a stable idle before revving up.
​

If you recently used it hard with a strained load (tough grass, heavy weeds), the muffler or exhaust could be restricted or the air filter could be overwhelmed. Investigate for obvious blockages or debris in the air intake and exhaust.
​

If you can’t get it to run after the above checks, consider that a carb rebuild kit or a replacement carburetor is a common and cost-effective fix for stubborn FS36s, especially if the diaphragm or needle valve has deteriorated over time.
​

What to prepare if you dive in

Have basic tools: screwdrivers, pliers, a small socket set, a carb cleaning spray, and new spark plug(s) ready if you find fouling or corrosion.

Replacement consumables: fuel filter, air filter, fresh pre-mix fuel, and a carb rebuild kit for your model if you find internal carb components degraded.

Work plan: drain fuel, remove air filter cover, inspect spark plug, test ignition, check fuel lines and primer, then address carburetion step by step.

When to seek deeper help

If the unit still won’t run after cleaning and carb work, a professional carb rebuild or complete replacement of the carburetor is often the most reliable next step, especially on a machine you’re trying to avoid spending on. A reputable service can also check for compression issues that could cause stalling under load.

Cheers
Max.

Hi all,

I just had another look at this LPG mower and why the new carby wouldn't work well on LPG.

I didn't spend much time on it fixing the problem ,just drilled the gas fitting out a couple sizes larger and put an angled edge
on the brass inside of the carby also I had to change the throttle shaft as before I hadn't noticed where the carby
linkage fits in is slightly different on the gas carby as it was for horizontal shaft motor and I'm using the vertical shaft motor.

One extra thing I did was install a plastic fuel tap on the petrol fuel line.

Turned the bottle on and it ran well but had to adjust the lpg down so the fitting most likely is drawing LPG better now.

It ran well on petrol too, no problems on either fuel.

Instead of using the alloy fuel bowl, I've installed a metal one.

Cheers
Max.

I messaged Brisbane Cylinders Mower Specialist about this make/model and they said the supaswift/bush ranger parts will fit straight on, not the Scott bonnar/rover 45 parts

Hi Maxwestern,

Thank you for the reply.

I will order the clutch body and proceed to rebuild.

Regards,
Jim

The End Result...

The lawn was initially Double cut, and then Single cut in two directions, without using the catcher. [See pic attachment]

The reason for that is that all the clippings, still hold fertiliser from the initial application, and they will leak this back into the surface, providing more nutrients to the lawn itself.

I Backlapped my SB Model 45 - 17" [7 Blade Cylinder, using 3 pastes, starting with course, then medium, and finally fine], throughly before doing this, as it needed to be a clean and sharp cut, and the reason for that is, any bruising or damage to the couch, would leave me open to fungal diseases, such as Helminthosporium 'Helmo', or Clarireedia 'Dollar Spot'.

I can not stress enough here, that your cylinder & bottom blade need to to be in A1 condition, especially at this time of the season. The reason for this is that you need to remove the early morning 'Dew', and the best & easiest way to do that is to give your lawn a quick syringe with a hose, before the heat arrives.

My only regret in all these posts, is that I don't possess a Lawn Roller apart from the split one on my Scotty.

Merry Xmas & a Happy New Year to you all, that read this,

Regards,

mice_elf

Hallelujah ! The generator is now running perfectly without me needing to buy any new parts. Managed to clean out all the passages in the carbie, made a few gaskets, got the majority of the crud out of the fuel tank and put a filter in the fuel pipe to catch whatever comes through in future.


Thank you to Max and AVB for finding a possible replacement carb for me. The one Max suggested looked good enough but AVB's one is identical to what I have.

Between Max, AVB and Norm I reckon any problem with mechanical devices could be solved. I am very grateful to be able to ask questions and receive such excellent advice on ODK

Well, some good news. After sending my Rover Ranger friction plate to W.A. and 5 months of waiting, it finally arrived back today. We have an old-fashioned brake service company in town, and they knew where to send it.

They said it might take while and they were right. They had to get one of the older employes to show to the younger guys how to bond a new surface onto it. $150 but it looks great, like a bought one.

Happy with that.

Body got thrown out over 45 years ago Max because I wanted a catcher. I picked up a pope 4 stroke with a rod through the side but it had a side catcher. I fitted the Hurricane motor to it and I used that mower for years until I decided a rear catcher would be so much easier to use

Looks like an alloy head on the Hurricane 2 stroke motor and the starter pulley looks to be the later one so I would say it's late fifties
to early sixties.

No information has survived on these rare Gardener mowers apart from what is on ODK.

People Who Might Know:

Old Mower Shop Workers: , people who worked in small mower shops in the 1950s and 1960s could be some of the few who remember the Gardener 18, especially if it was sold locally or regionally. It’s possible that even some of the shop owners or repair technicians who handled them might recall specific details, especially if the mower had quirks or was unusual for its time.

Realistically, though, anyone who was actively working in a mower shop in 1960 would likely be at least in their 90s today. So, finding someone with direct knowledge is rare, and even if you do, their memory of obscure models might be a bit hazy.

What has already been exhausted looking for info on this model.
Online Forums/Groups
Vintage Mower Restoration Experts:
Old Manuals/Ads


Cheers
Max.

Did a job of work for a nearby rural property owner and got to chatting about how he got on during a 30 hour power outage we had a couple of weeks ago, outages are a frequent occurence around here but not often for such a long time. I was telling him we got by with just a small 240V AC inverter running off 12V DC batteries to charge our phones and rechargeable AA and AAA batteries, run a few 240 V appliances and keep a few lights on, can't use it to run the fridge or freezer, it is too small. He told me they just tough it out and mentioned he used to have a generator but it stopped working because of carbie probs.........

Today I picked up his generator and he also had an old mower sitting there waiting to be sent to the tip, also with carbie problems and allegedly in need of a new piston and rings. He had since bought a ride-on and another Honda mower.

So, after some minimal fiddling, cleaned air filter and a new sparkplug the mower runs superbly. Did half an hour mowing, drained jet black oil and replaced with fresh oil.

The generator is an Xceed EX200G. The fuel tank was full of rusty crud as was the fuel tap and the needle valve needed brute force to remove but I got it running nicely by filling the float bowl with fresh fuel. May need a new carbie.

I hadn't seen a Victa with a Tecumseh 4 stroke motor before. I have had some Tecumseh 2 strokes.

Always worth a chat when visiting rural properties.

Final post here to show Cox differential on the 25K96 model,circa 1996-8.Took her apart as I wasn't sure if it was lubed up and there's no way of telling,there was HT grease there but the gears teeth were dry so topped it off with Veedol semi liquid grease.Everything looked good in there,2 bushes,one bronze and one small sealed bearing,nice solid unit.So I can rest easy now knowing that's lubed.

That is an idea Max, idler pulley would have to be mounter inside under the cover plate but yes it is doable

Where did you get the seals? They appear to a wacky size! 0.875 x 1.560
I'm in Melbourne

Had request to look at a non-starting, petrol-leaking generator at a nearby property, Chinesium rubbish with stuck needle valve and muffler filled by mud wasps, got it started and then chatting about old machinery and they had a couple of defunct mowers sitting out in the open some years, since replaced by a ride-on.

Two Victa Craftsmans, one green Model #BC082 AA90 which I brought home, the other orange which will be picked up next time I'm going past. Said to be seized but turned over OK and started up with a few mls of 2 stroke down the plug hole. Cleaned out the grotty tank and it's a good runner although revving much higher than I like.

I have been trying to avoid acquiring any more 2 strokes but, hey, how can you say no when they just jump into the back of your car?

Hi SuziRova,

There is a YouTube video showing removal of front axle , in the video he uses long nose pliers to remove the clips but I
use a flat blade screw driver.



The back axle (depends on Rover model) usually has two pop rivets that you drill out at the rear sides to remove a metal
bracket that holds the axle in.

The catcher cover also depends on model ,if there are no locking parts on the ends of the cover hinge rod you just use a hammer
and a small punch to hit the hinge rod out ,once it moves out a little you can use vice grips on that end to wiggle the hinge rod out
but this can slightly damage the hinge rod so you just file it before a refit.

Cheers
Max.

Hi BT,

The 2-inch shaft length depends on the motor used on the base. As you know, if you use a 2-inch shaft on an old Victa base with a Sprint motor (Briggs), the petrol tank can hit the discharge ramp on the base. This is why older mowers had the motors turned with the exhaust facing the operator—so the tank wouldn’t interfere with the base. Otherwise, you would need a longer crank and a spacer to lift the motor, then rotate it so
the tank is on the right side.

I forgot I picked up a Tornado 4 stroke the other day ,it's 70 mm the crank length.

They didn't need to lift the engine on a Tornado for the tank to clear the discharge ramp, as the discharge ramp is lower on the Tornado compared to other Victa bases. This provided enough clearance for the tank when using the Sprint-type motor.



Cheers
Max.

Thank you both! I'll look into this in more detail next week