Received one of these with the motor hanging off the deck attached only by the self-propelling belt and the cables.
The deck had rusted away around the three mounting bolts and it was on its way to the tip. A thick mass of dried grass cuttings was under the deck and on top leaf litter and grunge, no wonder it had rusted.
The motor had good compression and I thought it worth a bit of time and effort. Getting the crankshaft boss off was a hassle. Disconnected the self-propel mechanism, rotated the motor 30 degrees and drilled new mounting holes into the deck, cleaned out the fuel system and now have a nicely running mower, quite powerful.
Anyone wanting the SP drive belt let me know, yours for the cost of postage.
Yes Morrison is correct ,I just call them Masport as Masport took over Morrison in 1986
I've got a couple bases the same one branded Scott Bonnar but both Morrison
I don't think it would be late fifties., my Scott Bonnar has the same wheels.
It does look like your motor was changed or just the cowl but wheels look later than fifties on your mower.
1960s-1970s: As global mower manufacturers started to innovate, cross-tread tires began to appear more widely by the late 1960s and early 1970s, both in the U.S. and in Australia. This was driven by improvements in traction, durability, and maneuverability for mowers.
So, while cross-tread tires appeared a bit earlier in the U.S., they likely became common in Australia by the late 1960s as well, though not necessarily across all brands or models immediately. There would have been a mix of straight-tread and cross-tread models during the transition period.
Ex Penrith City Council; I used it for many years mowing my 2 acre yard until I got a ride on. Was running when parked (always under cover) about 8 years ago, but was proving hard to start. was always powerful when running. Collection only from service road 1732 - 1760 Mt Gravatt Capalaba Rd Chandler Qld. Will be going out for kerbside collection tomorrow afternoon, but I would prefer it went to someone who would appreciate it, rather than go to land fill. A great mower. Also a 10 year old but never used or even started Tomahawk pressure blaster. Must take both. Reply to this thread with time to collect if you want them.
Most cordless drills are designed for intermittent duty: drill a hole, drive some screws, then rest. Continuous high‑load use (like spinning a mower reel for many minutes) will:
Heat the motor and electronics quickly, shortening tool life or causing thermal shutdown.
Drain batteries very fast, especially under high torque.
Increase the risk of sudden stall and wrist‑twisting kickback if the reel jams.
You can play with it as a short‑burst experiment, but as a practical “powered mower” solution, a drill will be under powered, hard on the tool, and not very durable.
Powering something with a drill is best with hexagonal shaft in chuck and you can hose clamp the chuck from coming loose.
Most people just fit a scooter electric motor , there are a few on Youtube.
Possibly if there is enough room you could drill the spot weld from the outside and bolt it together putting a fibre washer on both sides.(use the headed end of the bolt in the tank that has the metal washer and head as one part.
If you can't braze or silver solder the tank yourself , I don't think it's worth fixing , even a tank repair putty is at least $10. you may as well spend a little more on a new tank ,or just fit any tank you can find.
I suggest that you have a close look at the drawings for the model. That pulley appears to be some sort of addon because it is not shown in the drawings for the complete ride on and the deck parts list.
Good luck with trying to work it out but I myself would be looking at going back to the orignal setup and you should then get it working as it should.
Yes I conside Honda a bastard of a manufacturer, sure the can build good motors but it is the dumbness of thing they do to bolt on components to their motors, just dumb stuff I hate working on their equipment
Hmm Bruce, I think you might be onto something. I bought this mower with a flat idler pully installed and when I replaced it I asked an ex greenfield dealer for the part and that's what they gave me another flat. After doing a bit of research the part i need is a gt7965 according to the manual which is a v. However when I check my other 17 hp 32 inch fastcut it uses a flat pully as well.
Googling it shows both flat and v pulleys for the idler pulley so now im confused.
Ive given it to a repair mechanic to look sort out as Ive sunk 8 hrs into already but ill post what the outcome is within the next week.
The vacuum pump I used was one i got off Aliex only about $35-50 and looks to be quite well made with a Trouid type pump,I've studied the sump bolt area a little more and it looks like the sump bolt partially extends into the oil fill tube area and so won't quite allow the smaller suction tube from the pump to bypass the end of sump bolt on it's way downward.I may try use a metal tube with the end flattened slightly next time but I won't be changing the oil for perhaps 12 months from now. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007171480404.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.25.6069ozsAozsArz&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=7337a2ec-4f20-4938-9c8d-9ae4e2868613&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:7337a2ec-4f20-4938-9c8d-9ae4e2868613,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238115%232000&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2221%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21AUD%2176.71%2137.59%21%21%21368.27%21180.46%21%402103122117713859326347650e8bf6%2112000039886284016%21rec%21AU%21116816236%21XZ%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A1ed9f1c%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005007171480404%7C_p_origin_prod%3A
Thanks for your response QSR. I would have replied earlier than this, except I have not been well, but now I'm OK.
I too have heard about the Facebook comments, and I do tend to agree with you regarding rip-offs. All of what I'm saying below on this topic--is "old hat"
My present SB Model 45 17" was purchased from them roughly 12 years ago. and at the time I got them to replace the original cylinder for a brand new 7 bladed one [Black in colour], which was then lathed as was the new bottom blade, and then adjusted to give a perfect match. It came with a Vintage 1977 B&S -- 3 HP, Model 80303 08339-01 77061001 engine on it. [See attached pic and you will be able to see the original B&S red paint, under the Black paint over-spray.] From memory, about AU$1,700 all up and delivery was free.
Suddenly, about 18 months later, the engine siezed for no apparent reason. It had the correct amount of oil, a brand new spark plug, and I looked after it well. I'm still in the process of slowly dismantling it [as time permits], to try and discover what went wrong. Also, finding the Manuals -- Operators & Exploding Parts, has proven to be next to impossible! When completed, my findings will be the subject of another post.
So, in essence, I ended up with a AU$1,700 mower without an engine. However, I can say that the back split-rollers, twin rails, clutch assembly, chains & sprockets, front roller, cylinder, nuts & bolts and catcher etc., are all still in first class condition, with no signs of rust, or dents, including beneath the side cover.
Below is a part list fo the Thoroughbred cylinder mower which i think is yours and you will see the model numbers in the parts list. it might help you a bit to show where the parts all go etc.
I rebuilt a Suzuki M120X (with new seals) that came on the Rovers. The carburettor has been cleaned (not soaked though). I wonder if you can help me with a starting and running issue that it now has.
It would only start with Aerostart and full choke (even when hot). It would not start from the carb at all.
Once it starts, it runs very well (and the governor works) but then conks out as if the kill switch is activated. The bowl is full of fuel so it's not that.
If I hold the governor lever for higher revs, it doesn't conk out but then stops again a few seconds after I let go of the governor.
I have tried another carb that I have also cleaned (no soaking) and same problem.
Any ideas anyone?
You should look at the airfilter assembly because that can cause a lot of issues if it is warpped it will cause starting issues and running issues.
Just search on the forum and you will find other people that have the same problem.
