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Rover ProCut 560 – Spring Service

It’s now been a year since I found this beauty, and its been working hard!

When the Rover came to me, it was in remarkable condition for a 10-year-old mower. The previous owner had inherited the machine after his father passed away, both clearly kept it well maintained. Even still, I did a reset on it by changing the oil, plug and air filter. I also had to refresh some of the drive system parts, but overall, I had a near new ProCut 560 for half the price I paid for one new in 2015.

After a busy 2024/2025 spring/summer, in February this year I gave it an oil change and a set of new blades. I also replaced the useless fuel tap with a fuel filter. Now that the weather has warmed up and the grass is growing again, I want this mower in top condition for the season ahead. Look after your tools and they will look after you……………………..




Blades –

The current set of blades have been on the mower since February, and while they looked ok at a glance, I had been noticing a decline in cut quality. On closer inspection, they were well worth replacing. As per most Rover stuff now, finding OEM has become hard. I’ve noticed that when I’ve put the OEM Rover blades on the mower, they seem to last longer than the aftermarket stuff from GA Spares or Jak Max. Depending on where you get them, they will come pre-packaged or drawn from bulk lots of blades and hardware. The Rover branded ones come pre-packaged in sets of two. In this case, I’m using the Jak Max versions.











Deck –

While I had the blade carrier off, I took the opportunity to scrape off the accumulation of dirt and grass. Nothing special or glamorous here, just a paint scraper, wire brush………………….. and a giant mess afterwards.





Oil Change –

Briggs normally specify SAE 30 oil, which I use in their older engines or for break-in. Otherwise, I’m using Penrite 10W-30 semi-synthetic. For the big block 850-series, you need 590 – 600ml of oil.

If Penrite is good enough for a Bathurst win last weekend, its good enough for my lawn mowers. …………………



I normally drain or suck the oil out via the dipstick tube. On this occasion, with the blade carrier removed, I decided to remove the sump plug instead. I’ve actually never done it this way, in fact Briggs & Stratton have removed the drain plug from their engines in recent years. Victa’s fitted with this engine are pressure lubricated via an oil pump, which is ran through an external oil filter. Those little filters are extremely expensive at $19.95 each, twice the price of some automotive filters. For the ProCut, Rover went for the basic splash lubrication, which saves me $20 per service.



Cleaning –

With the oil change finished and the blade carrier reinstalled, I decided to give the unit a clean. Shine Supply Wise Guy was sprayed on, left to soak, then rinsed with the pressure washer. A little Hydr02 for the deck, and some Hyper Dressing for the plastics, I then used my blower to dry it off.




Spark Plug –

The plug was last changed 12-months ago when I got the mower. I could have just cleaned it, but I had them in stock so just went ahead with a new one. I went with the Champion RC12YC, but NGK BCPR5ES works as well.




Air Filter –

I’m actually a little disappointed in myself for not checking the filter sooner. I normally tap them out weekly, but for whatever reason I had let it go. No wonder the engine was running rich.

Briggs & Stratton -

Early Models (Long-type) – 795066 (Filter) + 796254 (Pre-Filter)

Late Models (Triangle-type) – 595853 (Filter) + 597266 (Pre-Filter)






Fuel Filter –

With these, you need to make sure you have the correct one. The white 75-micron filters are for engines with a fuel pump, the red 75-micron ones are for gravity fed. The red ones are universal, but the white ones need a fuel pump to draw through the finer filtration material. These pancake filters use a metal screen, which is superior to the paper cartridge style filters that can sometimes break down and send filter material into the carburettor. Both are unidirectional for ease of installation.

Briggs & Stratton – 298090S


Service Cost –

Below is the parts cost to complete this service. If I add my labour rate to that, it would come out at about $177. So I saved about $90 - $100 by doing it myself.

Blade Kit - $39.95

Oil (590ml) - $7.45

Spark Plug - $8.95

Air Filters - $19.30

Fuel Filter - $9.95

Shop Supplies (Towels, Carb Spray) - $2.00

TOTAL - $87.60




Ready for Work –

A quick test fire and the ProCut is ready for the peak mowing season.






This mower also represents the beginning of a massive change to my daily life. I went to pick this mower up on the first day of my long-service leave, and what a sigh of relief that was. In the two weeks leading up to leave, I had a very upsetting and uncalled for interaction at work. I held it together and forged on, so walking out on my last day and the little road trip to buy this mower was the beginning of a new life. Two weeks later, my new car arrived. A month later I landed in hospital, no doubt my body finally giving in, the recovery ate up a month of my leave. Another month on and I resigned, finally putting end to a long running and constant drain on my mental health.

So, every time I use this mower, I’m reminded of how it was the catalyst for change and the feeling of freedom.

I am on the lookout for engine pulleys so I can fit them to the Victa 24's I seem to come across without motors and therefore no engine pulley. I have used a few pulleys from the self propelled Victas by cutting them down and welding a plate on them, then bore them to suit the Victa boss so they fit on the standard Victa boss which is a better option because it means I can use them on both tapers on the full crank motors as well as on the PT motors

Hi Mike, is it just the glass or the reflector as well. I had to make a new lense for a Greenfield earlier this year and I had a perspec lense from a 4 foot double fluro ceiling light so I cut 2 lenses so they looked the same and the owner was stoked. Just an idea or you could use just clear perspec

Yes strange things happen like that, one thing has an effect on something else and makes no sense

Thanks Max for all your info and help.
Cheers.
Maurice.

Hi Merediths,

I can give you a one size fits all type of order of removal ,just take from the following what's applicable to your mower.

Typical removal sequence — do these in order

Remove the blade and arbor nut — leave no load on the spindle.

Remove exterior pulleys / belts / drive components that are on the spindle. If the spindle has a pulley or gear, there may be a keyway and a key — remove the key after loosening the pulley set screws.

Look for set screws or lock nuts at the flange — many machines use a collar or nut behind the flange. Rotate the spindle slowly by hand; you may find a small grub screw/allen screw that locks the flange. Remove any visible set screws.

Remove any snap rings (circlips) visible on the shaft or inside the housing. Use internal/external circlip pliers as appropriate. These often retain the flange or bearing spacer.

Inspect inside the housing for a bearing retainer plate / cross bolts — some housings have a small plate fastened with screws that hold the inner bearing race or retainer. Remove these screws.

Apply penetrating oil to the mating surface between the flange and spindle/housing and let it soak (30–60 minutes is typical).

Use a puller on the flange — attach a 3‑arm puller to the flange face or to the hub if there are threaded holes. Tighten the puller centre slowly. If the flange is stubborn, heat the flange (not the shaft) with a torch for a few minutes — expansion helps free it. Be careful with seals and paint.

If flange still won’t move: use a slide hammer pulled from the flange face or pull from any threaded flange bolt holes (with proper puller bolts). Alternatively, place soft‑faced drifts at several points and give short, firm blows to break the bond — avoid hammering the shaft directly.

Once flange comes off, remove spacers and record order — take photos or lay out parts in order.

Extract bearings from the shaft or housing:

If the bearing is on the shaft (press fit): press the bearing off the shaft using an arbor press or large socket bearing driver, pushing on the inner race only.

If the bearing is in the housing: press it out from the opposite side, pushing on the outer race only.

NEVER press on the wrong race (will damage bearing).

If stuck, heat the housing (not the bearing) slightly to loosen the fit or use a split bearing puller.

Inspect shaft and housing for scoring, pitting, runout. Replace/repair if damaged.

Fit new bearings:

Clean surfaces thoroughly.

Press bearings on by the race you’re supposed to press (inner race for press‑on shaft bearings; outer race when pressing into housing).

Use correct bearing heater or induction or a short, controlled press. Don’t overheat seals.

Reinstall spacers, seals, and any snap rings in original order.

Reinstall flange:

Clean the contact surfaces; consider using high strength retaining compound only if the manual specifies (do NOT guess).

Press flange back on, or reinstall with puller in reverse. Align any keys.

Torque any flange nuts/bolts to the manual spec (if you don’t have a spec, tighten to a firm stop and check axial play).

Check axial/preload (if applicable): some spindles require a certain preload or shim pack. If the unit uses shims, measure end‑float with a dial indicator and adjust with shims until in spec.

Reassemble pulleys/guards, test rotation by hand, then powered test at low speed. Listen for noise and check bearing temperature after a short run.

Common traps and tips specific to “housing assembly and flange won’t come off”

Hidden set screws: look under paint, behind seals, inside small recesses. Use a flashlight.

Snap rings inside the housing: sometimes they’re tucked behind a shoulder — remove them first or the flange won’t clear.

Loctite / thread locker: previous repairs may have used thread‑locker on retention nuts; heat and penetrating oil will help.

Corrosion/bonding: flange can corrode to the shaft — heat the flange (do not overheat bearings) and use a puller or slide hammer.

Don’t hit the shaft end hard — that can damage bearings/seals or cause the shaft to displace and damage the motor.

If the flange is a press fit on the bearing and you try to pull the bearing by the stator/housing, you’ll destroy parts — always support and push on the correct race.

If you get stuck

Are there threaded holes in the flange face? They often accept puller bolts or are where the blade guard attaches.

Is there an internal circlip under the outer housing seam? Remove housing cover and inspect inside.

Does the manual show any numbered retaining screws? If so, those must come out before the flange will move.

Reassembly checks & run-in

After reassembly, run the spindle by hand to feel for smoothness.

Run at low speed under no load for 5–10 minutes. Check for unusual vibration, noise, or heat.

Re‑check end float and bearing preload after first run (some bearings seat slightly).

Cheers
Max.

Thanks Max.
I spent some time on it this morning and have answered both of my questions, as follows:
1. The reason for the odd configuration of the cutter brake bell crank was that the threaded rod that goes to the front of the mower and back into the U piece that attaches to the top of the bell crank had been pulled so hard the spring had bound and the end of the rod had been pulled out of its hole and was jammed against the cross piece. Easily fixed once it was out.
2. The plate with the threaded holes is an Engine Mounting Bolt Plate. The engine mount bolts go down beneath the engine deck and screw into it. Need some Loctite for next time. If there is enough clearance I'm going to get longer bolts so I can put Nyloc nuts on so it can never vibrate loose again.
Cheers
Doug

Thanks Max.
This crankshaft actually came out of a Victa crankcase, it is in used condition, I will try to post some photos.
Cheers.
Maurice.

Yes 125 cc doesn't sound too good Norm for a slasher, you would think it would only be good under light load cutting.

Looked up a comparison , a rough comparison.

Feature 125cc Victa 160cc Victa
Displacement ~125cc ~160cc
Typical HP (approx.) ~2.5–3 HP ~3.5–4.5 HP
Torque Lower Higher
Blade Handling Lighter blades / small mowers Heavy blades / slashers
Cooling / Load Design Lighter use Designed for higher resistance

Cheers
Max.

I see Bunnings have them at $269.for an Oregon Self Sharpening Chainsaw 603354_AAB Norm ,

That makes more sense now that you mention the top edge of the chain gets sharpened as I had wondered how that
would work and seeing the chain it makes sense.

Sounds like a good saw, I also see a lot of good reviews online for this saw ,this will put repairers out of business .At $100. it's probably cheaper than hiring a chainsaw for a day.

After I cut up a big gumtree off my brothers driveway with the electric saws he wanted to buy one.

Cheers
Max.

G'day MM,

Sounds like you couldn't wait to get out there back to work again.


Cheers
Max.

Hi Folks.

I'm after a 19 inch Razor Aluminium deck Mulch Plug - should be part number CH86270A or CH86270G.

I am in Sydney but happy to pay postage - they are rare as hens teeth online - th - ought maybe someone might have one laying around.

No idea what they're worth - happy to discuss if you have one.

Thank you.

Hi Oddi3 ,

I've had a few of these 2 Hp electric shredders but they weren't branded Victa , I just kept the electric motors and threw the rest , You could just download the closest manual you can find to the Victa one as the operating principle is the same.



https://media.tractorsupply.com/is/.../tsc/product/1/69/38/76/1693876_Man1.pdf
https://s.productreview.com.au/products/manuals/260945_564e9b6737710.pdf

Cheers
Max.

Hello, Just joined and could someone kindly help me find a manual , for a walk behind, Heavycut Slasher 'Supercut' model, with Honda 11. Motor's running nicely, but I need help with adjusting the belts correctly for self drive and engaging the blade. Blackberry's here we come?lori

Just incredible. Our kids complain if there's too much mayo on their "Big Mac". And yet that little fella at the end can still smile. He'll probably do that most of his life. I wonder how many fingers have come out the end of those machines 😲

Hi jackeo21,

Below is a parts list for the mower.

Thanks Max

Yes it is only an oil leak so I will give it a try.

G'day Brasso,

The fact that you were not originally acknowledged here for joining us initially in 2024 is a great disappointment, and in my opinion
unacceptable, for which, I can not for any reason, understand.

Having said that, inheritance is a very good thing to have up your sleeve, and I wish you well on your endeavors and hope you do return to us and share your thoughts and insights regarding your Retravision Contessa mower, so that others who have the same machine can can benefit from your experience.

Once again, on behalf of all of us at OutdoorKing, I apologize for the tardiness in response to your initial post.

Cheers and Regards,

mice_elf

Hi Bruce,

Thanks for that, yeah I have that one. Cheers tho.

Muz

I would say the covers have been removed Raynewt.

The factory design for virtually all MTD Model 137-504 Transmatic ride-on mowers included an engine cover, If you're looking at one without a cover, it's almost certain that the original cover was lost or removed.

The covers had a few functions.

For models with the engine in the rear, the enclosure was particularly important for safety, as it protected the operator from the hot engine and moving parts.( By fully enclosing the engine, )

Engine Protection: It offers superior protection to the engine from all sides, shielding it from debris, branches, and other hazards.

Noise Reduction: A metal box enclosure would significantly help in dampening the noise from the engine.

I can't find a good image online but from memory I thought they had a plastic cover on top of the motor.

The Problem with Old Plastic: Over time, exposure to sunlight (UV rays) and extreme temperature
changes (from a hot engine to a cold environment) causes plastic to become brittle and weak. A minor impact that wouldn't have damaged the cover when new could easily cause it to crack or shatter on an older machine.

There are a few manuals online for this mower if you use Google.

Cheers
Max.

Hi Willo, all good now. Some of the bolts holding the motor on can be a bit of a pain the get at but usually not too hard.