OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads

Hi Max,

Thanks soo much for all that info. I will work my way through it and let you know how I go.
Much appreciated.
Tim

Hi OK community - I'm a newbie.

I have a bushranger 500CM - dual clutch on the handle - one for reel and one for roller drive. The roller has been slipping, and won't actually propel the mower. It appears that the drum pawl disc is slipping in the overall roller drum. There are small plastic lugs in the pawl disc that slot into recesses in the outer roller drum. Have you come across this issue with the bushranger plastic drums before.

Based on it slipping I was considering just gluing this pawl disc to fix it against the roller drum. Any thoughts from anyone experiencing a similar problem??

Hi AVB,
yes the Power Sharp system is brilliant. I bought one saw, took it home and used it for one day and the next day I went back and got 2 more of them, absolutely brilliant saw and 5 seconds sharpens the chain like new again. Makes cutting wood fun again, well almost. Not using the splitter anymore these saws just rip a log up in seconds

Yes Max, this world is now full of dickhead engineers, but I guess they can't take all the blame the manufacturers have told the engineers what sort of faults they want built into their cars

G'day Phil

eBay have alternators for Briggs ,if it's a Briggs engine the numbers on on the engine cowl.

May just have a bad wire or dirty connection or faulty regulator.



Cheers
Max.

Picked up a freebie tornado with a rusty base that has a seemingly healthy tecumseh formula 55 engine on it and near new blades, just need a primer and most likely a fuel system clean, only ever had one of these engines in the past and don't really know much about them but its a free fix so i guess to hell with the honda and on goes the tecumseh

Just a couple notes on adjusting the fuel mixture.

First the low and high do interact. So it is to get the idle mixture right first. IF were an Echo trimmer I could provide basic procedure but you must have a tachometer. It is that you tune to best speed and then enrich to slow down some. Then you peak the high and then enrich for a 100-150 drop. From there you fine tune for throttle response.

Second the metering lever should be set at the correct height or you have over rich or lean out. Similar a stiffen metering diaphragm can cause problems. This why I have three different metering lever tools for Walbro [2] and Zama [1]. Many of the Ruixing carburetors uses one of the three depending on which carburetor it is a clone of.

Basically this interaction is the same for all carbs as the idle mixture feeds all the time.

Hi Voltron

Yes similar to Scott Bonnar.

I'd first check that the main pto shaft going the the chain drive is spinning as the engine clutch on these is known to slip when worn, also the grub screw on some mowers where the clutch locks to the engines crank can come loose
allowing the shaft to spin without moving the clutch under load.

If those above parts are good you will need to check the chain drive unit to the drum.

Cheers
Max.

Hi Jmckenzie,

From memory some info here

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=58949

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...st-workshop-manual-c1964.html#Post109944

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.a...p;Words=lauson&Search=true#Post37783

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=72511

Cheers
Max.

Whatever bolt you can find that will fit will do the job, usually 8mm or 5/16th, some might even take 3/8th, depends on the hole size in the motor

If remember correct the Briggs are unthreaded to start with they are 3/8 holes that they use self tappers. So if the new and never had screws in it then you just tapped to which 3/8 course thread that is easily available in your area provide you have the correct tap.

I've heard of people cleaning the carby 3 times then using an ultrasonic cleaner before the carby works properly
and sometimes people soak the carby in Acetone

You can soak metal parts in Acetone but make sure no rubber parts touch Acetone.

Soak metal parts only for 24 hours maximum to fully dissolve buildup while minimizing any risk to aluminum. Shorter times like overnight (8-12 hours) work well for lighter deposits, followed by brushing and air-blowing.
​
​

Effectiveness and Tips
Pure acetone outperforms diluted cleaners for stubborn gunk on brass jets and castings. Check progress after 12 hours, rinse with clean solvent if needed, and always dry completely before reassembly.


Boiling a lawnmower carburetor in a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water can effectively remove rust, scale, and light corrosion from metal parts like brass jets and aluminum castings.
​
​

Recommended Process
Heat the solution to around 60°C (not a rolling boil) and soak disassembled metal components for 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally for even cleaning. Rinse thoroughly with water, neutralize any residue with baking soda if needed, then dry completely and blow out passages with compressed air.
​
​

Limitations and Risks
This method works well for mild buildup but may not dissolve heavy varnish as effectively as acetone; pure vinegar is often preferred over diluted mixes to boost acidity. Avoid prolonged exposure or boiling on aluminum to prevent pitting, and never include rubber, plastic, or coated parts, as acid can degrade them.
​

Or

Gently heat pure vinegar 100 percent to 50-60°C (warm, not boiling) on a stove or in a double boiler, then soak metal components for 30-60 minutes while stirring occasionally for effective rust removal without damage. Boiling risks accelerating corrosion on sensitive alloys, so monitor temperature closely.
​
​

Post-Cleaning Steps
Rinse immediately with plenty of water, soak briefly in baking soda solution to neutralize acid residue, dry thoroughly, and blow out jets with compressed air.


Cheers
Max.

Hi Leifc145 ,

I'm not a Scott Bonnar reel mower expert but it should have a model number on the badge but if that's missing it makes it more difficult ..

The main ones I see without a clutch on the engine PTO shaft are a Diplomat 590 so possibly could be a bitsa .

Cheers
Max

Thanks for the replies NormK and Maxwestern.

Turns out the problem was poor contact, the cable lugs were contacting on the nuts rather than the posts and there was a fair amount of oxidation on the nuts. I replaced the nuts, added some washers and the switch is working well again.

Hi All,

Have a few old CD's of briggs image attached.

Just send me a PM an I will arrange Shipping.

Postage would be $14.50 Australia wide

Hi Adam,

M122X possibly 1989 to 1994


M120X → nominal class ≈ 120 cc

M122X → nominal class ≈ 122 cc
121–122 cc (often quoted as 121.5 cc)

As far as I know

Parts are functionally M120X

Every confirmed M122X owner who has rebuilt one has found that:

carburettor

crank seals

ignition

piston & bore

gaskets

…match M120X specifications.

In practice, suppliers, rebuilders, and forums treat M122X = M120X for parts purposes.

From what I've read the carbies are different or jetting and governor linkage.

A local mower shop should be able to clean the carby or do it yourself,

Old mowers are cheaper than parts ,usually you can find one for $10. or thrown out ones in scrap metal.

Cheers
Max.

Thanks Norm,

just for future reference, as I always have the diff locked for the hilly area I mow, would a Greenfield without diff lock be just as effective as one with (in locked position)? I assume it would, but....... And if so, did Greenfield make 34 inch units without diff locks?

I work the mower fairly hard because of the slopes and although the area gets more and more manicured, I still hit the odd rock or two, and have in the past broken decks. Drive failures seem to occur as per MattDT's 2019 Greenfield Fastcut Transmission overhaul (short shaft) post- stuck in forward or both forward and reverse simultaneously- hence I've had a play with rebuilding a transmission (although without the knowledge that MattDT made accessible in his post- hence a less than perfect effort). Up until now I've purchased second hand units with a few hundred hours on them and run them successfully for 4 or 5 years (I average 60-70 hours mowing per year) before I break a deck, an engine fails or the drive clags up. I then buy another. Lack of cash prevents me spending the big dollars on a new or nearly new unit, unfortunately.

Prior to discovering the wheel problem described in my post above, I had just finished the transplant of a transmission/drive unit I had rebuilt a few years ago (rebuilt meaning pulling down and replacing corks- not going to the lengths I should have) from a defunct a 20hp unit (governor failure as per my first post many years ago) into my current 13hp unit. I noticed that the main visible difference between units was the use of cuphead bolts and nuts securing bearing shells (?) to chassis in the 13hp, meaning the cut out in the clutch pulley is needed, whereas in the 20hp unit standard nuts and bolts are used, and there is no need for a notch in the pulley. I've yet to test it out, but I'm hopeful it will work long enough for me to do a proper rebuild of the removed drive, paying careful attention to MattDT's wisdom, which seems to suggest biting the bullet and spending close to a thousand dollars on new components such that I should get many years of trouble-free drive......Should you or anyone else have any knowledge of issues associated with such a transplant, please let me know.

Oh, and I'll let the forum know should my wheel stud fix not work as hoped. Otherwise you can assume the bolts welded in nicely and the wheel was reattached.

Thanks again.

I am looking for a gearbox for an R360 Deutscher if anybody know of one kicking around Melbourne or the surrounding area. A complete mower or parts mower is fine as long as the gearbox is ok will be fine

Gday all, hoping this thread is still alive and active. I have recently picked up an AV everyman 15-inch cylinder mower. Runs really nice, although I need to fix the throttle at the carby. I see you guys are chasing part numbers etc so I will post what I have, hopefully in photos if I can figure that out.

Yes Stihl made it difficult on this model AMP to get the primer bulb in, good that it's running now.

I've never had a shortage of snippers from tip shops for $5. or free at the side of the road so I've never had to buy a cutting head.

I think all the FS36 Trimmers I've had ,the oldest were from the nineties ,I did see an early one online that sounds like your one.

This is what is on my FS36 AutoCut 11‑2 (4004 710 2192) not sure if this fit's the earlier model without comparing one.

Officially listed for FS36: The FS36 owner’s manual and dealer listings show the AutoCut 11‑2 (4004 710 2192) as the correct mowing head for that model and similar-era units.

Right size and weight: It is a light, semi‑automatic dual‑line head designed for small trimmers, so it suits the FS36’s power and curved shaft without overloading it. It works best with 2.0–2.4 mm line.

When it’s “about the best”
For normal lawn edges, grass, and light weeds, the AutoCut 11‑2 gives a clean cut, easy bump‑feed, and uses the standard guard/limiter blade on your FS36, which makes it the most balanced, low‑hassle option.

Only if you do mostly heavy, rough stuff where plastic blades are preferable would a PolyCut head be “better”; for general use, AutoCut 11‑2 is the sensible main head to run on your FS36.

The earlier model FS36 to mine could be a different cutter head as I did see another type it was the last image below.

It's usually best to use what Stihl recommends as it won't overload the trimmer.

Cheers
Max.

G'day,
I removed the rocker covers on both cylinders, checked the rockers for cracks, checked to see if there were bent or damaged push rods(all good). Then checked tappet gap both sets were in spec. I had couple of spare Nikki carbies so I swap over the internals and it still hunted but it ran better, then I had a thought I have had a Briggs V twin in for repairs a while ago it wasn't running right a bit like this one. So I removed the "sump" and found the " paddle" had come off the govenor shaft, replaced it new new governor shaft and it fixed the problem. But i think I will get a new carby first before I pull the engine out and strip it down.

I'd probably just weigh the front down and put a roll bar on the back.

I still like these testers but not worth it for a $50. mower.



Cheers
Max.

Good call there AVB, something is obviously bent somewhere