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Noted

Will consider that

Agree

Regards

Brake cleaner is similar to carb cleaner but uses slightly different chemicals.
It works well enough that I'll use it for carbs if I don't have carb cleaner and I use it as a good general parts cleaner.

I use this spray gun cleaning kit.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-17-piece-spray-gun-cleaning-kit_p6290484

You should really remove orings and other seals when cleaning a carb.
Carb cleaner and brake cleaner can both cause damage to them although some cleaners are less aggressive and can be less likely to damage them.
And ultrasonic cleaners can also cause damage to orings either through swelling or straight up disintegration of old worn seals.

Sometimes there's a bit of trial and error to find a good cleaner that doesn't damage plastics and rubber.

Thx looktall for the instructions and informative details,,,,,I have few questions :

1- Brake cleaner would it clean as well ,,,,,?

2- Is there a good brand one you recommend ? I need to have it in my repair kit

3- Do you think ultrasonic would be a most effective thing to clean without affecting the rubber seal ?

I've seen it suggested that in lieu of an ultrasonic cleaner you can simmer your parts in a pot on the stove top.
You don't want it boiling just simmering.
You'll want to remove any plastic and rubber o rings. Just put metal components in.
You'll want to use a gentle cleaner like dish washing liquid or something that won't eat the aluminium.
You'll probably want to do it outside if you can and you'll probably also want to avoid using the pot again for food.

Having said that I also don't have an ultrasonic cleaner so I normally just disassemble the carb fully (remove emulsion tubes and jets etc) and give it a going over with carb or brake cleaner and give it a scrub with a brass wire brush for the external parts and use a spray gun cleaning kit for the jets and tube and internal passages.
If it's really gummy (like a thick gel) I find acetone makes short work of it.
If that fails, I usually just replace the carb.

Dear All

I have got a Kartcher pressure washer 4000 psi 3.6GPM with Honda GX 390 ,,,,I have used 3 times so far and I forgot to drain petrol before store in its shed,,,,,basically it is new

Yesterday when I tried to clean the carburetor I realized it is badly covered with gum and I used a carburetor cleaner ,,,,it cleaned it but not completely clean


I don't have ultrasonic machine and I prefer not to use a harsh chemical ,,,,,what other suggestions can be considered ?

Thx

Legend! Thankyou, that’s much appreciated. The engine code is 7509300 so it’s a late 1975 engine, which I guess makes it most likely a 1977 model mower?

The handlebars are a shame, and squished how they are I don’t think are repairable, so I’m searching for some.

Update....

When I reassembled the carb I set the poppet valve to the 'A' setting. I mowed for about 15 minutes on full throttle before the same problem of it starting the stall. I left it for the day then set the poppet valve to the 'C' setting.
Mowed with a full fuel tank on full throttle with no stalling. Re-fueled and mowed for another 15 minutes (I live on a large corner block) with full throttle.

I can't recall what the setting was before but would have been the 'A' setting as I recall the revs were lower than the 'C' setting. One thing I did notice is on the 'A' setting when it was idling the revs were very low but doesn't explain why it would suddenly start to stall after a while on full throttle when it was fine before. Anyway I may experiment with another poppet valve and see what happens.

Thanks for your replies.

There's an old thread on here that suggests mowers with stickers such as yours are from the late 70s.
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/109411/re-sb-45-id-plates.html

If you look on the side of the blower housing (probably near where the carb bolts to the head you should find some words and numbers stamped on there.
It should list "model" "type" and "code" with corresponding numbers below.
Model is the model number of the mower.
Code is a date stamp. Usually written as yymmdd plus a few extra numbers that I believe are related to factory.
So if your engine is original the code will probably start with a number somewhere between 77 to 80.

It's shame what someone did to those handlebars. They're in otherwise pretty good condition and looks unnecessary given it has what is possibly the original engine.

I can't see any obvious cracks in the frame but sometimes you can't see them until you remove the engine to inspect.

It should clean up nicely.

Hi guys

Brand new to my first restoration, and am hoping I can get some help ID’ing this mower. I think I’ve picked it up in fair (?) condition, but honestly I’m not too sure. Maybe a 450520 but it has a sticker instead of metal plate.

Cheers!

Hammer and dolly seems like the most sensible option.

Does anyone know how to fix dints in a original rover 45 catcher?

Any help appreciated.

If you have taken the air filter cover of it is easy to remove the tank only 4 screws to undo to get it off.

Thanks Bruce - the info on the line is good news. An Exploded View of Parts into AI Claude has come up with a method to remove tank, but looks complicate No scrwews on tank, but need to remove a lot of gear just to get at tank. Cheers. Thanks

1. Poppet valve set to 'C' facing towards the inlet manifold.
2. The springs that have always been in carby. Can they get worn out?
3. Muffler seems to be ok. I have another Victa 2 stroke for parts and will swap it over to see if that helps.
4. Rings? The jet and the mesh is clear but will give it a quirt of compressed air.
5. Spark plug appears fine. I have spark but will try a new plug anyway. If it was the plug it would expect it to stop completely.

Hi Bruce.

1. Fuel cap pin hole is clear.
2. Fuel flow fine when tap turned on.
3. Jet not blocked but will give it a quirt of compressed air.
4. Inlet manifold is secure.
5. Carby O ring should be good but will replace it anyway to be sure.
6. Inlet manifold O ring should also be good but will also replace it anyway to be sure.

Ok so...

1. What's your poppet valve set to?
2. Which spring are you using?
3. Is your muffler blocked/damaged?
4. How many rings are on your fuel jet?
5. What's the state of your sparkplug if it conks out?

Hi Cheese,

Could be a fuel thing causing the problem but if you just check these first.

1. Check fuel cap to make sure that the pin hole in it is not blocked.

2. Check fuel flow when the fuel tap is turned on.

3. I am assuming this has a plastic carby on it and if so check that the screw jet is not blocked.

4. Check mounting block is not loose.

5. If loose check the 'O' ring behind the carby mounting block is not damaged.

6. Also check the 'O' ring on the mountint block has no damage.


Try these few things and let us know what you have found also pictures of the machine and also the carby area would help as well.

Thanks for your response:

1. Regular unleaded fuel with 2- stroke oil as have always used.
2. Fuel is fresh.
3. Mix ratio of 25:1 as have always used.
4. Happens without blades touching grass. Tried it today on the pavement.
5. Vacuum hoses and carby housing seem ok but that is one thing I can check again in detail to be sure.
6. Never had a service as such. Always taken it apart myself and cleaned it. No washers added to it.

The last time I mowed the grass it was going great for about 15 minutes then suddenly started to splutter and dialed back the throttle to keep mowing at lower revs. After a few minutes I pushed the throttle forward again and It was good for about another 5 minutes then started to splutter again.

G'day Cheese,

Questions off the top of my head that might relate:

1. What fuel are you using?
2. How long have you had the fuel?
3. What 2-stroke mix ratio are you using?
4. Does it happen only while mowing or does it happen even if the blades aren't touching grass?
5. Have you checked the vacuum hose and carby for cracks/leaks?
6. Has the carby been serviced and had washers added to it?

Hello everyone.

Have a Victa 2 Stroke mower built in 2000. It has been running well for some time but recently after a few minutes of mowing at full throttle it starts to stall and I have to pull the throttle back to about halfway to stop it stalling.

Checked the head gasket and the crankcase O ring are both in good condition. The bore from what I can see through the exhaust shows no signs of scoring. Tested the decompressor and it is working as it should.

Replaced the both the air filter and carby diaphragm with brand new ones to see if they were the cause but it has made no difference. There are no fuel line or other blockages. It happens even with a full tank of fuel and with the grasscatcher empty.

Any ideas of what the issue may be as I am currently at a loss.

Thank you.

Thanks for the reply. Crazy that the country is out of them.

Hi Weka,
I have probably a hundred of them here in a box but postage to NZ is cost prohibitive. Myson lives in Ukland so I know postage well. Glad you got it sorted

In NZ the washers are not available.

Blacks Fasteners here sold me two items which do the job:

WCSS12 M12 304 Stainless Conical Belleville Washer DIN 6796

WHA12264Z M12x26x4 Hardened Flat Washer ZP F436M (38-45 HRC)

Held the Belleville washer in some vice grips and slightly enlarged it with a cone drill to allow it to clear the threads. The hardened washer clears the keys on the motor shaft.

My original washer was cracked so I could never tighten it.

I removed the spark plug and filled the cylinder with a light cargo strap to lock the engine to help tighten assembly.

Hope this may help someone.

Hi barramundi2,

Below is a parts list for the the trimmer which should help you identify part positions etc.

Now as to the fuel filter line you don't need to worry about cutting the fuel line so you can get it out of the tank.


1. Remove fuel filter from the tank
2. Get a lenght of fuel line and push it through the hole in the tank until you have enough showing through the petrol cap hole
3. Then place the new fuel line onto the fuel filter.
4.After that pull the fuel line out so the fuel filter goes back into the tank. This will take a bit of pulling and once the spout is through the tank place the plastic washer over the fuel line and let it go to complete the seal.

Hope that this helps.

Hello all,

I need to replace the fuel tank on above 31cc trimmer (green housing, cream tank).

Have removed the black rear box (air filter cover) .
Looked all over the tank for screws and can’t find any.
The two screws at the top of the black frame go into the engine mount, so I’ve left them alone.
What holds the tank on this model, and do I need to take off the starter housing?
What is the best way to get the fuel line and filter out of the tank? Don't want to cut the line flush and push the filter into the tank.
Thank you.
Frustrated.