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Thanks, Maxwestern.

It certainly looks like it has a cast deck. This one has an 8.5hp Honda motor with pull start, so I’m guessing it may not be the original engine.

It’s had its fair share of interesting repairs over the years and, while it works well enough for my current standards, it does need a fair bit of work and a few parts replaced.

The ginger cat, Hudson, was meant to be handing me tools, but he is easily distracted.

Cheers,
John

Cheers NormK

G'day Richo and Norm,

If it's 28-inch die-cast alloy deck then I would say it's a Greenfield Tractor 11 VE or 11 VR

1977 – 1980 (The 11 VE / 11 VR Era

The Deck: 28-inch cast alloy deck.

The Look: This is the exact era that matches your steel tractor pan seat and the metal steering wheel with the 3 holes in each spoke.

the Fuel Tank Support (The Big Giveaway)

Because the 11 HP engine block was physically taller and wider than the 8 HP engine, Greenfield had to change how they mounted the fuel tank.

On the 8 HP: The fuel tank sits low and quite snugly over the top of the smaller engine.

On the 11 HP: If you lift the bonnet, you will notice a distinct, dedicated metal fuel tank support bracket designed to elevate and position the fuel tank specifically to clear the taller 11 HP engine shroud.


V = Vertical (This confirms the engine has a vertical crankshaft, meaning the shaft sticks straight out of the bottom of the engine to spin the blades).R = Recoil Start (The classic manual pull-start cord). E = Electric Start (It came with an ignition key and a battery so you didn't have to pull a cord).

My advanced image recognition software detects one lawnmower and exactly one male ginger cat.

Cheers
Max.

Hi Bumps,
That will do it no problems, I thought you had split the wheels apart. It is not too difficult to make up a jig so you can press them back together but this idea saves the messing around

Yeah Max, your absolutely spot on (apologies for the pun ... Ha!)
I've probably done three or four engine re-builds over the last 20 or 30 years and tack welding the spacer plate to the crankshaft lobes (I think Norm K referred to them as flywheels) to lock the crankshaft in position before removing the crankpin and conrod has worked well for me and I've never had any adverse consequences from the procedure. Of course the procedure relies on crankshaft alignment being correct in the first place but I think this a relatively solid assumption.
And of course, you're absolutely correct, the tacks don't put sufficient heat into to crankshaft to rise its temperature sufficiently to cause distortion. Any localised stress of minor strain at the point of the tacks is ellimated as soon as the tacks are cut out with the angle grinder wheel.
Norm - I've never checked the alignment after this procedure because I don't possess the necessary equipment and tooling to do the check.

The attached photo shows the now very "weathered" spacer bar that I've used over the last 30-years but its still sufficiently serviceable to do a few more jobs if I feel the need in my "wind-down" years which is most unlikely, I may add.

Hi Richo, welcome here where we try to help
I'm not really sure on what they called the early ones but I often see them called tractors. This one is one of those, pre Anniversary models. There is the very early horizontal shaft motors and then you have the first of the vertical shaft ones. Yours is one of these

Hi everyone,

I recently got an older Greenfield ride-on mower, but I’m having trouble identifying the exact model and year.

I’m hoping someone here may be able to help me work out:

what model it is
approximate year of manufacture
what engine it originally came with
whether the current engine/parts look original
where to find manuals, parts diagrams, or serial number information

I’ve had a look for model plates or serial numbers but haven’t been able to confidently identify it yet. I’ll attach some photos of the mower, engine, chassis, controls, cutter deck, and any tags or stamped numbers I can find.

The mower appears to be a Greenfield, (which some godless heathen painted red) but I’m not sure whether it is an Evolution, Anniversary, Tractor model, or something earlier.

Any advice on what to look for, where the ID plates are usually located, or how to tell the models apart would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

I’m not trying to restore it to concours condition. I mainly want to identify it properly so I can order the correct belts, blades, cables, and service parts without playing parts roulette.

with the full round older cranks I've use a 6 inch metal ruler to line the 2 halves up at home.

The Jig Holes are Reference Points


. The Ruler Acts as a Parallel Gauge

you are checking for two things simultaneously:

Twist (Clocking): Making sure one half wasn't rotated further forward than the other.

Parallellism: Making sure the two halves weren't "pinched" or "flared" relative to each other.

Just have to be careful when welding parts together to hold them in place, as a little heat can make metal distort easily.

but A quick tack or spot weld doesn't inject enough total thermal energy into a piece of steel that thick to cause warp or distortion. The surrounding massive volume of cold steel acts as a "heat sink," absorbing and dissipating the localized heat from the spot weld almost instantly.

So looks like a good way to align the 2 halves for this project.

Cheers Max.

Hi MM,

It sounds like it could be The 1E44F-5 is a common 52cc, Engine Specifications Displacement: 51.6cc to 52ccPower Output: Typically ranges between 1.4 kW and 1.8 kWOperating Speed: Max engine speeds of 6,500 to 8,500 RPM, with an idle of around 3,000 RPMFuel Ratio: Requires a 2-cycle oil to gasoline mixture, commonly at 25:1

I usually keep them as they use them in a ton of equipment and are a handy motor for a lot of projects.



Lawn & Garden Equipment

Heavy-Duty Brush Cutters / Whipper Snippers: This is the absolute "sweet spot" for this engine. It is the default motor for almost every unbranded, budget straight-shaft brush cutter on the market.

5-in-1 Multi-Tools: The exact same power head paired with quick-release split-shafts to switch between a line trimmer, pole chainsaw, hedge trimmer, and brush blade.

Mini Garden Tillers / Cultivators: Because the 51cc motor is lighter than the 61cc, it’s the most popular choice for those small, lightweight tillers used to churn up garden soil and flower beds.

Lawn Edgers: Dedicated wheeled or stick edgers used to cut clean lines along sidewalks.

2. Recreation & Gas Toys (The "G-Scooter" Engine)

Stand-Up Gas Scooters: If you see a generic Chinese gas scooter (often called a "Stand-Up Extreme" or "Mach 1"), it almost certainly has this 51cc/52cc engine bolted to a small chain-drive gearbox.

Gas Skateboards / Motoboards: Off-road skateboards with hand-held throttle cables and a 51cc engine mounted over the rear trucks.

Pocket Bikes & Mini Dirt Bikes: Small "pocket rockets" (like the generic MTA2 or X1/X2 styles) and 50cc-class kids' dirt bikes.

Drift Trikes: Custom or factory-built three-wheelers with slick PVC rear tires for drifting on asphalt.

3. Farm & Construction Tools

One-Man Earth Augers (Post Hole Diggers): While the 61cc is used for heavy, two-man augers, this 51cc engine is the go-to for lightweight, one-man post hole diggers.

1-Inch Water Transfer Pumps: Lightweight, portable pumps used by farmers and homeowners to move water out of flooded areas or trenches.

Gas-Powered Fence Post Drivers: Handheld pounding tools used to drive T-posts into the ground using a heavy internal piston slammed by this motor.

Portable Winches: Small, gas-powered capstan winches used by hunters to drag game or loggers to pull small trees.

4. Marine & Special Applications

Kayak & Dinghy Outboards: Extremely popular for budget, air-cooled 2.5 HP to 3 HP outboard motors used on small fishing boats and inflatables.

Gas-Powered Concrete Vibrators: Used on construction sites to settle wet concrete and remove air bubbles.

The Secret to this Motor

Whether the sticker on the plastic shroud says 51.2cc, 52cc, 517, or has a brand name like Demon, Texas, Viron, or Timbertech, if it has a 44mm cylinder bore, it is the exact same engine. Parts are universally interchangeable, dirt cheap, and available everywhere.


Cheers
Max.

sorry Bumps I meant the flywheels

Hey Norm,
I don't understand your query .......... "Just curious as to how you trued the wheels up?"
- Mower wheels or engine terminolgy that I haven't yet come across?

Hi Bumps,
All good, happy to be able to help and as you say it will hopefully outsee both of us. I just hope whoever gets it next appreciates what it is. Just curious as to how you trued the wheels up?

Just and quick note and update on my attempt to fit a Victa Power Torque Conrod to a single piece crankshaft that was used in Victa 160 2-stroke mowers from 1974 to 1982.
With help from the Forum members and ESPECIALLY Norm K who kindly donated the Conrod and provided excellent friendly advise when I picked it up from his home address, I have successfully rebuilt the old engine and the mower is effortlessly chewing up the grass on our 1/3rd acre block.

The was an earlier thread on this subject but I am unable to find it and add to it hence this thread.

I can unequivocally confirm that the Die cast aluminium Power Torque conrod fits perfectly between the lobes of the old 70's style full crankshaft and that its Big End bearing is s perfect match to the old 0.775" dia crank pin. Additionally, for those who are unsure, the PowerTorque piston, gudgeon and small end bearing is identical between the 70's series Victa and the Power Torque engine.

The brains trust at Victa did a terrific job on these engines with parts interchangibility ..... Just a pity that they didn't ditch the plastic G4 / LM Carbie, swallow their pride and opt for the up-market Amal Carbie.

The attached photos show some important stages in the re-build.

I'm 74-years young and I expect that the ole Victa 160 will see me out.

FINALLY, A MASSIVE THANKS TO NORM K (Forum Specialist and close neighbour) for supplying the conrod, magneto and grass catcher to help me out during the re-build.
It was nice speaking with you mate. Pity your health issues did not allow us to choke down a couple of Lagers.

Thanks for all that helpful information Max.

Over the years I have either wrecked or given away various 2 stroke brushcutters which came my way, My current brushcutter fleet are three Hondas and a BBT 4stroke. Hate the noise, the smell and the need to constantly pfaff around with the throttle of two strokers.

This clone is now running perfectly.

Judging by the force needed to pull on the rope it is likely to be a 50cc job. When it is being given away to someone in need of a brushcutter your info will be included.

Legend, thank you once again

Hi Fred,
If you use the Victa blades then cut 130mm off the bar, that will keep your bar about the original length.

Hi Norman,

Thank you greatly that’s an amazing idea. I’ll give it a crack

Hi Fred, welcome here we try to help.
What I have done some time ago was cut about 150mm off each end of the bar and drill a hole in each end of the bar and fit Victa 24 or Honda blades to the bar. The existing bar is probably hardened but I have been able to drill them using a masonry drill bit sharpened the same as a normal HSS drill bit. Slow but sometimes you have to do what you have to do

Hi everyone,

I have purchased a shiremaster 720 in decent condition except the cutting blade which is worn out. I have noticed that parts are next to impossible to get.

I’m wondering if anyone has ever changed the boss adapter to the shaft with a similar fitting blade, approx 28 inch? The shaft is approx 20mm in diameter, so the bore of the boss would similar.

Or has anyone found a solution to changing the bar to a new one that fits?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

- Fred

Hi MM,

I've had a heap of these .Those generic, unbranded Chinese brush cutters are incredibly common, they almost all use the exact same blueprint, parts, and plastics whether they are branded as a "Demon," "Timbertech," "Trueshopping," or any of the hundreds of random names on Amazon and eBay.

While they don't have a single "brand" model name, in the small engine and replacement parts world, they are almost universally classified by their engine family/base design.

Here is what you would call it depending on who you are talking to:
1. The Industry Standard Names (For Parts and Manuals)

If you are looking for replacement parts (like a carburetor, pull start, or clutch), searching for these terms will bring up exactly what you need:

CG430 / CG520: This is the most common designation.

CG430 usually refers to the 43cc variants.

CG520 refers to the 52cc variants (which covers that 48cc to 54cc range ).

BC520 / BC430: "BC" simply stands for Brush Cutter, followed by the approximate engine size.

There are a few different displacements of this Line Trimmer.

2. The Generic Description



"Generic Chinese 52cc 2-Stroke Brush Cutter" (or 43cc, depending on the exact displacement , I just find displacement and search ?? cc line trimmer online ).

3. The "CE" Sticker Meaning

That "CE" sticker isn't a model number; it stands for Conformité Européenne. It just means the manufacturer is claiming the tool complies with European health, safety, and environmental protection standards so it could legally be imported.
💡 Quick Tip for Finding Parts

Because these tools are all cloned from the same classic Japanese designs (mostly old Komatsu/Zenoah or Mitsubishi blueprints), the parts are wildly interchangeable. If you ever need to fix it, just type "52cc brush cutter [part name]" or "CG520 [part name]" into eBay or Amazon, and 95% of the time, it will bolt right on!

Cheers
Max.

How does the roller shaft attach to the curved end frames

Hi Bob, am also fixing an old P1 and wondering how do the roller end frames separate from the wooden roller
shaft? Thanks

Here’s anothe Victa Twin 500

https://ebay.io/m/8DEszU

Vintage Victa 500 Twin Lawn Mower
Classic Victa 500 Twin 2-stroke mower (170cc). Rare vintage model featuring the twin-cylinder engine.
Condition: Used, shows signs of age and surface rust on the handles as seen in image.png.
Engine: Victa 170cc 2-Stroke.
Status: Ideal restoration project for collectors or vintage mower enthusiasts.
Pickup only. Make an offer.

https://ebay.io/m/8DEszU

Friend renting a rural property invited me to have a look through a big junk pile left behind by a previous renter and about to be taken to the tip by property owner.

Got myself several chainsaws and "cough" a couple of other things, and down near the bottom found a brushcutter which was complete and had good compression..

Once home squirted some fuel down the plug hole and it fired up. Put half a tankful in and although in need of some TLC it seems in good nick.

There's no numbers or marks anywhere and the original motor label is long gone, the label on the drive shaft is generic, obviously a very cloney clone.

Anyone able to let me know what it may have been branded or what it looks to be a copy of ?

Thanks, Max, that’s an excellent description. However, it ends out that this one’s screwed on with a 3/8 UNF RH thread. I saw the end of the thread peeking through the rust. I’m going to machine a new one from a 2” pulley blank. More fun in the workshop!