OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads

Hi Max,

Thanks soo much for all that info. I will work my way through it and let you know how I go.
Much appreciated.
Tim

Hi OK community - I'm a newbie.

I have a bushranger 500CM - dual clutch on the handle - one for reel and one for roller drive. The roller has been slipping, and won't actually propel the mower. It appears that the drum pawl disc is slipping in the overall roller drum. There are small plastic lugs in the pawl disc that slot into recesses in the outer roller drum. Have you come across this issue with the bushranger plastic drums before.

Based on it slipping I was considering just gluing this pawl disc to fix it against the roller drum. Any thoughts from anyone experiencing a similar problem??

G'day Tim,

First thing I’d do, if you haven’t already, is take the fuel hose off the fuel tank. There’s usually a fuel filter strainer in the outlet of the tank. Sometimes you take the hose off and the filter is still in the end of the fuel hose. Then clean the filter and the tank out.

The carby has a fuel tap on it, sometimes I’ve had to push a wire into the fuel pipe inlet to dig the corrosion out, and then pull the fuel tap apart to clean the gunk out of it. Undo two screws and the fuel tap comes apart.

With fuel in the tank and the fuel bowl off and the float and needle removed you can check to make sure the fuel flow is correct.

With this, 5 mins of mowing it starts to run rough and surge before stopping altogether.

It's usually fuel or spark problem. Also you do the easiest fixes first like replacing the spark plug with a good known plug.A bad plug can fail when hot.

When a small petrol mower like a Sanli runs fine cold, then after ~5 minutes starts surging, running rough, and finally dies, that usually points to a heat- or fuel-delivery–related problem, not basic tuning.

Here are the most common causes, roughly in order of likelihood:

1. Fuel tank not venting (very common)

Symptom match:
Runs fine for a few minutes → fuel flow slowly stops → surging → stalls.

What happens:
If the fuel cap vent is blocked, a vacuum forms in the tank as fuel is used. After a few minutes, fuel can’t flow.

Quick test:

Next time it starts to surge, loosen the fuel cap slightly or remove cap.

If the engine smooths out or restarts immediately → blocked fuel cap vent

Fix:

Clean or replace fuel cap

Make sure vent hole isn’t clogged with dirt or grass

2. Partially blocked carburettor (main jet / emulsion tube)

Symptom match:

Runs OK at first

As demand increases and fuel level changes → leans out

Causes surging, hunting, then stalling

Why tuning “helped” temporarily:
Adjusting mixture can mask a blockage, but once warm and under load, the restriction shows again.

Fix:

Remove carburettor

Clean main jet, emulsion tube, and all passages with carb cleaner

Blow through with compressed air (don’t use wire)

3. Debris in fuel line or tank

Symptom match:

Debris floats around

After a few minutes it gets sucked into the fuel outlet

Engine starves, then stops

Debris floats away again → restarts later

Check:

Drain tank into a clear container

Look for dirt, rust flakes, plastic shavings

Check inline fuel filter (if fitted)

4. Ignition coil breaking down when hot

Symptom match:

Runs perfectly cold

Once hot → misfire, surging, stall

Often won’t restart until cooled

Test:

When it dies, immediately remove spark plug

Check for spark

No spark hot, spark returns when cool → coil failing

Fix:

Replace ignition coil

5. Blocked fuel cap pickup screen or carb bowl vent

Less common, but can cause:

Gradual leaning out

Surging under load

Stalling after several minutes

6. Overheating (less likely but possible)

If:

Cooling fins packed with grass

Flywheel shroud clogged

Check:

Remove top cover

Clean cylinder fins and flywheel area

Cheers
Max.

Hi AVB,
yes the Power Sharp system is brilliant. I bought one saw, took it home and used it for one day and the next day I went back and got 2 more of them, absolutely brilliant saw and 5 seconds sharpens the chain like new again. Makes cutting wood fun again, well almost. Not using the splitter anymore these saws just rip a log up in seconds

Hi Max,

Thanks for that. Took your advice and definitely has made it easier to reference the changes. I have managed to get it tuned to a good rpm again but the problem now is that after about 5 mins of mowing it starts to run rough and surge before stopping altogether.

Any thoughts? Tim

Okay...Kinda sounds like they are re-brand Chinese chain then. Don't get me wrong as there is both excellent and extremely poor products coming out of China, just depends on the manufacture. My problem right now is the darn 100% metal tariffs here is driving all metals thru stratosphere. This is also limiting the styles of chains with some dropping the safety chains that home owners needs to be using.

I may just stay with the TriLink chains then. And buy Oregon as needed. I know TriLink are fairly good chain for most of my customers and myself. It just that I not able find it at a reasonable price since I quit the distributor I had. Yes they are lower quality but most of my customer have a bad habit rocking their chains in the first place and no chain other than carbide handle rock very well. But even a carbide chain can be dulled.

And Norm I have heard of the Power Sharp system but never have seen it here in the shop.

Yes Max, this world is now full of dickhead engineers, but I guess they can't take all the blame the manufacturers have told the engineers what sort of faults they want built into their cars

Yes it will be interesting to see the future of Victa with RGS MM and Norm.


I hear car dealers can now charge $500 to change a battery on that particular model, MM, so at least you didn’t have to pay to get yours changed.

Those engineers are strange-looking fellows; the same guy who designed the battery location also designed the engine starter inside the motor.

Cheers
Max.

Hi AVB and Norm,

I haven't knowingly used an Archer chainsaw chain but have had a few cheap chains on saws that have broken or the sprocket
has stripped the drive teeth from the chain so I usually just use Stihl chains or Oregon.

when I look up Archer chainsaw chain I get the following.

Archer chainsaw chains generally have a good reputation for being affordable and offering decent performance, but they might not always match the durability and precision of higher-end brands like Oregon or Stihl. Here’s a breakdown of the pros and cons:

Pros:

Affordable: Archer chains are often less expensive than other well-known brands, making them a good choice if you're on a budget.

Compatibility: They tend to fit a wide variety of chainsaw models, which is convenient for general use.

Decent Cutting Performance: For the price, they offer a reasonably smooth cutting experience, especially for lighter, occasional use.

Availability: Archer chains are pretty easy to find online, and they come in different sizes and styles to match various chainsaw brands.

Cons:

Durability: They may wear out quicker than more premium chains, especially with heavy use. This can be an issue if you're cutting a lot of wood or working in tough conditions.

Finish and Precision: Some users report that the finish and sharpness might not be as high-quality as top-tier brands, potentially leading to a less precise cut or needing more frequent sharpening.

Build Quality: The overall construction can feel a bit cheaper, and in some cases, the chains may stretch or need adjusting more often.

Bottom Line:

If you're a casual user or need a spare chain for occasional tasks, Archer chains could be a solid choice. However, if you rely heavily on your chainsaw for professional or high-volume work, you might want to invest in a more durable, premium brand.


Cheers
Max.

Hi Tim,


It's easier if you put a mark on the governor first like in the image below.

Governor Arm Adjustment Procedure (Small Engine / Mower)

As you found out when loosening the governor arm clamp bolt on the governor shaft, the governor system allows very minute rotational adjustment. Small movements of the governor arm can result in noticeable RPM changes once the bolt is retightened.

Adjustment Notes

After repositioning the governor arm and tightening the clamp bolt, engine RPM will change based on how far the arm is rotated.

Because the adjustment range is small, it can be difficult to judge how much movement has occurred.

Recommended Marking Method

To make accurate and repeatable adjustments:

Before loosening the governor arm clamp bolt, use a scribe, small screwdriver, pick, or sharp knife.

Scribe a reference line across the end of the governor shaft and onto the governor arm, or along the side of the governor shaft if the governor arm sits a fair distance down from the end of the shaft.

This reference mark provides a visual indicator of the original position.
Note: The metal does not need to be scratched—applying a black marker (texta) first will make the reference line clearly visible.

Benefits

Allows you to clearly see how far the governor arm has been moved.

Makes fine RPM adjustments easier and more controlled.

Provides a reliable reference point for future governor adjustments.

Final Adjustment

After repositioning the governor arm:

Tighten the clamp bolt securely.

Start the engine and verify RPM.

If further adjustment is required, use the reference mark as a baseline for incremental changes.

Cheers
Max.

Yep MM,
Lot to be said about putting the battery in the boot as many of us did many years ago.

Will be interesting to see what eventuates with RGS revitalising the Victa brand.

I suspect it will be mainly battery powered OPE and in the shortish term adding all sorts of electronicals to any petrol powered stuff in order to appear environmentally aware. Either way us old school "engineers" i.e. those looking after engines, will be unable to fiddle around much with their new products unless we become electricians, or worse electronicicians:-)

My partner's 2018 Ford needed a new battery recently. Thanks to being buried deep under all the delicate electronic spaghetti it took me 4 hours just to remove the old battery!

And there will probably be some online codes needed which prevents access to anything unless RGS has you as a registered dealer.

Hi AVB,
Sorry I have no knowledge about them. I bought 3 new Oregon chain saws a few months ago and they have the sharpener built into them and in 5 seconds the chain is sharpened. Great saws

Now its my turn ask a question.

What do guys think about the Archer chainsaw chains? I am seeing it here for sale and what like to hear some opinions. Be gentle...

Hi Everyone,

Long time between posts. Thanks to bigted I managed to get the correct spring and got the mower running. Since then it has been a constant battle to get it to rev right. Just when I think I have it nailed it changes as the mower warms up. Adjusting the springs and governor on the sanli seems to a bit of a dark art and a matter of minute adjustments. Any help appreciated.

Thanks Tim

Hi Norm,

I don’t know the exact details, but I’ve read a bit about what Roy Gripske & Sons (RGS) has planned.

RGS, a prominent Australian distributor of outdoor power equipment, is the owner and distributor of Bushranger mowers. This marks a significant step for the company, as it's the first time they’ve established their own engineering team to design and develop products in-house, highlighting their commitment to innovation.

In addition to their focus on Bushranger mowers, RGS has made public statements about their ambitious plans for the iconic Victa brand. They’ve emphasized that it would be "nonsensical" not to leverage Victa’s legacy, and they intend to do just that. Their public statements suggest bold plans to grow the brand and take it into the future, with a clear focus on enhancing its product offerings and expanding its market presence.

Some of the sustainability goals and product initiatives they may pursue include:

Expansion of product lines to incorporate more modern and eco-friendly designs, potentially including electric or hybrid models (based on industry trends and public statements).

Revitalizing the Victa brand, with a focus on modernizing its image while retaining the brand’s heritage.

Technological advancements, potentially incorporating smart features into future mowers (again, aligned with industry movements in the power equipment space).

Sustainability goals, including exploring more battery-powered and low-emission technologies in their products (this is based on general industry trends but has been mentioned in some public discussions).

Cheers
Max.

Hi Max, it will be interesting to see what ideas they have for the brand

G'day Phil

eBay have alternators for Briggs ,if it's a Briggs engine the numbers on on the engine cowl.

May just have a bad wire or dirty connection or faulty regulator.



Cheers
Max.

Briggs has sold Victa back to Australia.

Formally owned by an American company since 2008, the year 2025 brings a monumental shift and change of ownership to the Victa brand. Welcoming this Australian icon back home and now under ownership of the proudly Australian owned and operated, lawncare powerhouse Roy Gripske & Sons, being placed under the Powerup Lawncare Products (PLP) division. With 45 years of knowledge and operation in the lawncare and spare parts industry within Australia, Victa is welcomed home back where it belongs.

The team at Roy Gripske & Sons are passionate about uplifting the Victa identity, community, dealer network and products to a brand-new level whilst ensuring the historic feel and culture remains engrained into its already rich history.

Just leave it on a motorcycle trickle charger in the shed all the time and that way the battery is fully charged whenever you want to use it. The battery is only used for starting, not required for running the motor

This is my 20+ yr-old Rover - featuring a dead alternator) - where might I find the Rover model (or indeed the alternator I need?)
[img]https://https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10229559670727892&set=a.10200508030655047[/img]
- thanks

Picked up a freebie tornado with a rusty base that has a seemingly healthy tecumseh formula 55 engine on it and near new blades, just need a primer and most likely a fuel system clean, only ever had one of these engines in the past and don't really know much about them but its a free fix so i guess to hell with the honda and on goes the tecumseh

Just a couple notes on adjusting the fuel mixture.

First the low and high do interact. So it is to get the idle mixture right first. IF were an Echo trimmer I could provide basic procedure but you must have a tachometer. It is that you tune to best speed and then enrich to slow down some. Then you peak the high and then enrich for a 100-150 drop. From there you fine tune for throttle response.

Second the metering lever should be set at the correct height or you have over rich or lean out. Similar a stiffen metering diaphragm can cause problems. This why I have three different metering lever tools for Walbro [2] and Zama [1]. Many of the Ruixing carburetors uses one of the three depending on which carburetor it is a clone of.

Basically this interaction is the same for all carbs as the idle mixture feeds all the time.

Hi Koii, just do one thing at a time

Hi everyoneone. Thanyou all for the suggestions. Ill take into consideration and try them all.