OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads

Worked out how to weld it up and now it works as a GXV160 motor should work without all the bullshit honda stuck on them

Thanks Bruce,
Easy enough to replace the clutch but there is a couple of hundred dollars in parts to do that and the customer just wants the clutch locked up. I did one a couple of years ago when I fitted a GXV160 clutch motor to an Ariens and that required me fitting a pulley for the drive as well as extending the shaft for the blade bar. I have forgotten how I made that work as well as the recen't one I locked up. These motors with the short shaft are a pain in the butt

Hi NormK,

I am not sure if these video's will help.

I had a Honda dropped off last night which has a clutch. The clutch is obviously slipping because the blades are not turning at engine revs. I did one of these before Christmas and somehow I was able to lock the clutch up so that it was turning the blades as a GXV 160 had done since they started using this motor. This mower has not done a lot of work as it look in as new condition. What I can't remember is what I did and I was wondering if anybody had successfully locked one of these clutches up somehow

Got plenty Bumps where are you

Would anyone out there have a second hand Victa VC 160 side pull flywheel (Magneto) for sale?
Part number is MA057570A - See attached photos.

Photos added (cannot find model number anywhere on catcher)

Thanks mice_elf pity but it is the way of the world these days Glad I am as old as I am so it won't cause me much grief anymore

One motor I have found to be reliable and at $200 very good value they are the DMC 6.5 hp motors. I have fitted several to the Deutscher 22 inch slashers and never had a problem. Only issue I think with fitting them to a standard mower base is that they may be a bit heavy and they have a 25mm shaft so you would end up with a boss problem. This would be such a massive improvement over buying one of these $1000 pieces of Briggs garbage. Weight is my only concern

Yes Max,
Anytime someone brings an "E" series Briggs to me the first thing I say to them is it is a heap of garbage but I will see what I can do with it for them. I have a quick check over it and most times I say bin it, even though they still look brand new. Only one word to describe them and that is GARBAGE

He tells everyone he had a Flymo but the wheels fell off...

Danny

Yes I'm surprised how many people I see mowing in the rain Vm

The strangest mowers I ever got from a tip shop for $10 was a mower that looked new but was seized and when I looked at the blade it had a gum-nut stuck on the end of the blade and someone at a tip shop selling me a cheap Flymo mower because they said the wheels were missing.

Cheers
Max.

Hi Bruce and Vm,

Ok thanks Bruce as I had suspected it was ODK but pc had just updated.

Yes that looks like the slide on handle Vm.



Cheers
Max..

Yes I agree Norm and Vm a lot of the newer models are kinda rubbish compared to the older models.

I've got a few 450E, 500E, and 550E series motors here with snapped cranks and no compression but look
brand new on the outside even the oil inside looks new still.

Newer models are built with low quality materials as we know.

Cheers
Max.

Hi vint-mow,
Absolute garbage and a discrace to the original Victa name Plenty of 75 year old Toe Cutters are still around and some still being used on a regular basis $1000 at Bunnings is bloody thievery

Yes, find them all the time at the dump totally packed up underneath with grass. Some still have the mulch plug installed. I am sure some people can't get their mower to go because it is packed up so solid underneath with caked on grass that the blades won't turn. I also see lots of people mowing in the rain, back when we were getting rain. Just lately it has turned so dry that there is no lawn there to mow.

Thanks Max and Bruce,

Yeah I didn't think my pic was showing. Here it is.

Hi All,

We have had an issue with people not being able to upload images which has now been fixed as shown in this post.

If anyone has posted images on the site after the 27/4/26 then they will need to upload again.

We are sorry for the inconcenience that this may have caused some members.

Test image is below including a pdf file.

Hi All,

We know about the image issue and are try to sort out what has happened with it.

Hopefully we have it sorted out in a day or so.

It's amazing how long those steel bases last if people look after them Vm ,when I was a kid I'd see people after mowing
if they cut wet grass they'd get a stick afterwards and scrape the wet grass out , even in the fifties it mentioned in the Operator’s Manual or an Owner's Manual that they recommended waiting until the grass was dry before cutting.

G'day Vm,

Not sure if it's my pc or ODK but the image isn't viewable for me.

The Genuine Sanli Height Adjustment Knob (Part 50301) is a push-on fit, not threaded.

It is designed to be a very tight, friction-fit part that slides onto the flat metal lever of the height adjustment assembly. Because these knobs have to endure a lot of vibration and "yanking" during use, they are notorious for being a bit stubborn to install.

I wouldn't pay lawn mower tax for this part just go to Aliexpress and get one under $5 free post , I just searched for M8 threaded control knob

or maybe search (M4-M16 Black Red Round Ball Handle Ball Knobs Bakelite Lever Knob Grip Handles Of Furniture Or Machine Tool Replacement )
About $3. each free post ,just a heads up: don't use your first-purchase discount on something super cheap. AliExpress gives you a massive deal for your very first order, so use it on something a bit pricier to get the most money off!


Cheers
Max.

Hi, Can anyone tell me if the Sanli height adjustment knob is threaded? I am looking for a cheap replacement for an M8 threaded height adjust knob for late model Victa. I asked an online seller if the Sanli knob has an 8mm thread or if it is glued in place and got a one word reply "SORRY"... which tells me nothing.

The knob will have to have an 8mm female thread. I guess I could use a standard snooker ball knob as replacement, or a gear shift handle, but if I can get one off a trashed Sanli that would be a cheaper option.

Yes, I suspect it is a bit of a rip off and other catchers will fit. There are "universal" ones on ebay, but it is hard to tell if they will fit or not. Possibly all made in the same factory in China. We often pay a lot more simply because a brand name has been stamped on it.

Yes Max, it's all about the two year selling window within the warranty period these days, which is the reason why I suspect spare parts are often unavailable soon after the mower is released. I thought I might buck the trend of "throwaway culture" by fixing some of the design flaws on this one to make it last the distance. Problem of course is that Briggs have now also moved to the throwaway culture. The jury is still out on how long these new Chinese made Briggs 4-stroke engines are going to last.

As for Victa, I had a good laugh at the official video still on YouTube, made on the release of the Victa Powercut 82 V. The presenter boasted that the machine comes with "solid ball-bearing wheels"! I wonder if the presenter actually took the wheels off to take a proper look? I suspect not, because if he had he would have realised they are entirely plastic.

Thanks for the research Max,

Interesting bit of history there. I sold my two very odd-looking early Rover mowers to concentrate more on the blue era ones. The design phase of Rover seemed to reach its peak in the 1980s and was further refined into the 1990s, with a fairly standard 18" red mower frame with chrome handlebars. This basic design changed very little in over two decades, although they did switch from aluminium alloy bases to steel bases in more recent times, which was a shame. You got a stronger base in the short-term but paid for it with rust in the long term. The plastic powdercoat paint looks great when new, but all it takes is one puncture and the water gets in. It spreads in no time and before you know it you are poking your fingers through the base. Powdercoating the base was a bad mistake in my opinion. The old aluminium alloy would go powdery with age and exposure and was prone to cracking if mowing amongst rocks and sticks, but you find lots of aluminium bases still around after 30-60 years or more, but not many steel bases. I am always coming across them at tips. The powdercoat still looks good on top, but tip the mower over and you can often poke your fingers through the rusted areas underneath. Just powdercoat on the surface and nothing beneath it.