OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Active Threads

Hi SuziRova,

You should look at the airfilter assembly because that can cause a lot of issues if it is warpped it will cause starting issues and running issues.

Just search on the forum and you will find other people that have the same problem.

Hi Voltron,

Below is a part list fo the Thoroughbred cylinder mower which i think is yours and you will see the model numbers in the parts list. it might help you a bit to show where the parts all go etc.

You should look at the airfilter assembly because that can cause a lot of issues if it is warpped it will cause starting issues and running issues.

Just search on the forum and you will find other people that have the same problem.

Good Luck.

Why are you using a flat idler pulley when you should be using a 'V' idler pulley for the tensioner.

The belt will always twist with what you are using.

The only small engines without drain plugs I've come across so far have been on push mowers which can be completely drained of oil and any sludge via the filler by tipping them over.

I presume any motors without drain plugs have been designed to allow complete drainage via a vacuum tube system. The Honda GXV390 doesn't look like it would be possible to remove all the oil by a tube through the filler.

On machines such as generators and quads, 4WDs, etc.where it is difficult to allow oil the be drained from the plug without making a mess I use old aluminium foil baking trays moulded to shape, similar to Norm's suggestion.

Just replaced a with a new idler pulley. Does anyone have any recommendation's before i go ahead and replace the the left hand clutch pulley? I'm trying to avoid that as it looks like a mammoth job.

Video of the problem [video:youtube]https://www.youtube.com/shorts/zrzvI4LmkRE[/video]

Just a note I have been using a pneumatic oil extractor for many years and no longer have those messy oil changes. I had to go this route as several small engines no longer have drain plugs.

My uses an air compressor to vacuum charge the extractor but there are cheaper version out there that uses a hand pump.

Hi there norm,thanks eh norm.I'm now thinking the drain plug may be the problem ie too long so will wait till next oil change comes around and maybe shorten it and hoping that will work,sucking oil out seems the perfect solution on these mowers,it is on my SUV as it saves taking the cover off the bottom of the engine bay.

Norm, I don't think I explained it quite correctly. So what is happening is that the belt comes off the idler pully on the left hand side and it hits what they call I think the clutch pully. What is happening is that the belt will flip on its side on the left hand clutch pulley. So the belt will run on the side of the v over the left pulley instead of sitting in the belt in its v formation. When you put a brand new drive belt on and tension it up, you can start the mower and let it run at idel and the belt does not run on its side and runs normal. But as soon as you up the revs the belt will slip/flip back over onto its side on the left hand clutch pulley and continue in this manner all future rotations. unless you re tension and flip it back. It was doing my head in so I paid a very experienced mobile mower mechanic too look at it. He said he has never seen a greenfield do that before in 30 years. He didn't have time to change the clutch pulleys there and then but that was his suggestion for rectification.

Talking to an ex greenfield dealer he suggested I try and obtain an A134 Super 2 raw edge belt as a first shot before replacing the clutch pulley. However I did the ring around to about 10 belt places and no one could get one. So the project for the weekend is to replace the left hand clutch pulley and the idler pulley and hope and pray that fixes.

Bruce: in answer to your question its a 34 inch greenfield fast cut with the briggs and Stratton 27hp in it. I think its like 2017/2018 vintage.

Hi Colin,
I get a bit of sheetmetal and put a bit of a fold in it to get the oil out past the chassis rail and I pick the opposite side of the mower with a chain block a couple of hundred mm off the ground so the sheet metal is angled down so the oil can run down instead of pooling and spreading out across the chassis too much. You will still get a bit spread around but most will drain into the container, hopefully

Hi all,has anyone tried this,after the disaster of the first oil change and messy cleanup I used the vac pump
that i use on my SUV diesel,the hose is about 1/4" and it drained it in under 2 minutes,or so i thought.Put back in 1 liter
and moved the lawn only to notice oil dripping from the air filter area,sure enough it was 1 inch over full.
Obviously hose is not getting all the way down.Anyone figured this one out yet?
Colin

My new mower works very well for 80% of my lawn, but the remainder is uneven and, combined with grass type, very hard going.
The old mower was ~35cm wide and the new is 45cm.

Any suggestions on how to mount a battery drill to a hand reel mower?

thanks, mike

Hi portabelly, welcome here.
That pulley you are showing I assume is the pulley up under the seat where the drive belt changes the direction of the drive. Bit hard to see what pulley there but it should be a "V" pulley, flat idler pulleys run on the back side of the belt. I doubt this is the cause of your belt slipping and burning because the belts are designed to twist and flex in those short distances.

Hi portabletelly,

Do you have the model number of the greenfield ride on so we can check the parts list.

So I bought a reasonable newish greenfield mower on Marketplace. Greenfield 27 hp 34 inch fast cut about 3 months ago 160 hrs on clock. About 4 to 5 hrs in drive belt slipped and burnt. I believe this was caused by a twist in the belt. Anyway so long story short I replaced the drive belt thinking it might have just been an worn belt and i got another 2 hrs of mowing before the same thing happened.

Anyway two more belts later I realised what was going on and at idell the belt does not twist then as soon as you give it high revs the belt immediately on the left hand side of the idler pully as it goes onto the left hand drive pulley it twist which then if let run creates drive issues. Tried a new idler pulley but same thing, its not that so Im thinking of replacing the left hand drive pulley.

As the machine was not new when I purchased can anyone confirm that this idler pulley is meant to be a v pulley or flat. I cant see any other adjustment there. So apart from the big job or replacing the left drive pulley does anyone else have any other ideas.

Hi Pummers,

This is a parts list for the Corvette model below which covers 32"and 40"Decks.

I haven't dealt with them personally but they have a bad reputation in the facebook groups for doing poor quality work. I wouldn't trust them with my equipment based off horror stories I've heard from facebook and another mower shop that people bring their stuff in to get repaired again after been ripped off by SRMC.

If the belt is for two pulleys the info needed to get a new belt is the outer diameters of the pulleys, the distance between their centres and the shape of the "vee", plus add a bit for any adjustment idler. The great engineering supplier I use always offers me two belts, one a bit longer, just in case one is too tight.

Hi All, I know this is likely an archived thread, but I have inherited one of these 1999 model mowers with a property purchase.

I'm trying to identify what the cutter deck belt is. Unfortunately it threw the belt and I ran over it, so I can't get it measured.

Any links for manuals would be much appreciated.

G'day Everybody,

How many of you in Sydney, have had dealings with this mob? -> https://sydneyrollermower.wixsite.com/home The website is being updated at the time of this post.

They specialise in all brands of Refurbished & Vintage [including] SB Cylinder mowers, B & S Spin Cuts, Atom Edgers and the like... [See Images below]

Getting your existing SB Cylinder and matching Bottom blade [regardless of the size & # of scroll blades], machined to a perfect match buy their lathe along with other brands, [such as Rover, Alroh, Atco e.g.] is just one of their many offers.

I would be very interested in your comments, should you have done any business with them in the past, regarding their service; price and efficiency, especially regarding pick-up & delivery~if that was involved.

And you even get a "Lets Chat" option...

Cheers and regards,

mice_elf

Thank you, I will check it out and come back to you. I do know for a fact that the PTO shaft does spin and engage the blades once it gets up to RPM as its a centrifugal clutch, I'll take the side off and start her up and take note of everything and post my findings. Thanks again!

I have a cone in my Dekson wheelbarrow and it is extremely powerful and the cone is a bit ratty but it really engages easily. Have you looked at the cone. If it looks reasonable there must be something wrong with the leverage arm somewhere

Mine won't move unless you stand on the pedal....cone us?

Thanks very much for the info much appreciated.
Cheers.
Maurice.

It is the carby and even after cleaning everything I can and then putting the carby through the ultrasonic cleaner, I still have over a 50% failure rate only solved by a new carby