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Hi.
I have an around 1990s Rover Ranger Autodrive with the 76 cm single spindle deck.

My source of frustration is figuring out how to engage the deck spindle brake because it works in reverse of its desired function. That is on when the deck is engaged and off when it isn't.
I have the parts manual, I have the owners manual and tried adjusting the various rods in combination in many ways.

Is there anybody who has experience with this problem and how to solve this dilemma?
I have attached a picture of the affected area as per the parts diagram.

[img]https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/23452/filename/[/img]

As a last resort I am considering drilling another hole in the brake pivot (17) to change the action of the brake plate (18) with the hope that I get it right the first time.

Cheers and keep smiling it hides what you are thinking.

Rusty Cuts

Does anyone have any experience pulling the blade bearings from one of these? I’ve attached an image of an identical model (I’ve pulled mine apart already apart from the bearings). By way of description it’s a horizontal Victa driving a belt and pulley. I can’t figure out how to get the bearings out and have already buggered the pulley with a set of bearing pullers! If it’s all too hard I’ll just live with the current bearings (they’re no too bad) but I’d like to replace them to give it another 50 years trouble free running.

Thanks again Bruce, much appreciated.

Hi Hawkeye,

The parts list that I uploaded would suit your engine.

Hi Bruce,

Thanks for the info, that's exactly what I was hoping for !

The engine details are : 124682 0112 01 000823 FA

Cheers , Mike

Was given one of those. Previous owner had only used it a few times and the tab on the fuel tap had snapped off.Seemed OK otherwise, started and ran briefly with a squirt of fuel into the carb. The thread on the tap was odd, couldn't find anything to fit.

Masters had gone under by then but found out a place on Sydney Road in Melbourne had acquired their GMC spare parts and bought a tap.

https://gpttools.com.au/about-us/

Once running it was next to useless as a generator, very low power which cut in and out, gave it to an electrician.

Below is a basic service guide for Rover mower walk behind mowers and the parts list for the mower.

The engine I need the model type and code number to see if I can locate the spare parts list.

got no idea its not very high in power output, i think its one of those cheap generators from back around the mid 2000's i reckon it was to power a caravan that had a portable fridge etc.

Hi Tony,
Just curious, that would you use a 750 watt genny for?

well so i had a look and the bore is polished like a very shiny coin with a mirror finish so i gave it a slight hone with a plastic makita abrasive disc and it sort of made it a bit dull with hone marks and gave a head a bit of a sand with some wet and dry on a very flat surface and it made no difference to the compression of about 95 still, and i gave it a few tugs fires but wont stay running so with the glazed bore and the amount of oil in the muffler i think she has done many many hours and is fucked basically i reckon a set of new rings and a bit more of a hone and she may run ok for sometime but i think she has done her time, so im gonna ask Ian how many hours he thinks its done im thinking now he most likely got it already used from someone else and ran it for a while before it failed to wanna run see he assumed it was the ignition but i have tested and checked and it has a very good spark.... im pointing to glazed bore not enough compression she has done her hours and needs a major job like hone and new rings or a rebore with larger piston, but i think parts are long gone for it unless i was to source a piston of the same size from somewhere else thats at the 63cc size but i think its possible but not worth the costs.

Hi there, does anyone on here know where I can find a parts diagram and/ or a service manual for this mower ?
The Rover model number is 06099 and its a 20" self propelled walk behind. It has an Intek 55 engine which has a small
output shaft connected to a chain drive to the rear axle. There is no gearbox and the rear discharge chute is full width.
I have no idea of the age but im picking maybe late 80s or early 90s. Thanks

i think its too late to want to keep the victa brand alive, id say if it sort of gets going it will only be for a year or 2 and it will become a dead end company again, and i bet ya 100% of the victas will be chinese made with an aussie assembling it, hardly worth buying cause its chinese still and the big difference is its only assembled here so the price will be much higher then it really should be.

i mention this alot to people the big problem is in australia USA UK anywhere is the wages. you have any country with high wages and then your end product is gonna be very expensive and you will need to try to find people willing to pay big bucks for that product, i can tell you now australians dont wanna spend money and thus all this australian made stuff dies out in favor of cheap chinese junk, look at all these ev's now all chinese junk and the aussies that buy them are buying cause they are what i would call tight asses.
anyway wages and cost of living are 2 major things that dictate if you can manufacture and survive and when it comes down to it a country such as china their workers are getting bugger all per hour so for them to make products on a large scale and make it economical is very good and you cant compete in any market when you have a third world country making it for next to nothing compared to a first world country making it for a very big price due to wages and high costs of living.
im afraid to say but i think most of these nice first world countries are going backwards and becoming the third world countries while the third world countries thrive cause they have lower costs of living.

i am ashamed to be an aussie today because we cant make anything cause we are paid very high wages and have high costs of living and we cant afford to build because of that, we are what you now call a sellers market where you sell in australia dont buy in australia, but back in the day our wages were low and our cost of living was low and thats why we could make and thrive but not anymore, we would only be able to go back to those days if everyone took pay cuts and the cost of living was greatly lowered but until then we will never go back to those days, the richer get richer and the poorer get poorer and id defo not wanna buy aussie made cause in the end of the day its chinese made Poo that some australian has assembled and it aint worth the price no way im gonna pay through the ass for chinese products assembled in asutralia its just a waste of money and i know it affects people livileyhood but thats the thing we are already up Poo creek.

ok so i was reading through the thread Max Gara had on the same generator, and i came across this site while looking for solutions to the generator running.

ok so a friend of mine Ian has a GMC 750w genny, and he has the exact same issues he was thinking it was the coil and so i said i will take a look,
so it has a coil and a cdi module and a stator so it seems like its adopting the same set up as a motorcycle so i checked all ignitions areas even removed the flywheel and no issues has nice spark, checked and cleaned carb, no issues there checked and cleaned muffler yes was caked up with oil and carbon but i had it running for half an hour before it stopped working which i was amazed it actually would run with no work to it at first. well anyway so i checked the tank nope no issues i cleaned the sediment bowl that near the tap nope had a little bit of dust and rust flakes but no issues as it had run before i dug into it deeply. i had the front panel off no issues there the switch works as it should.

had the head off some carbon but no issues and thus reinstalled after cleaning,
tried different plugs still the same it would fire for a couple of seconds and then stop..

this is where it gets funny, so i had some atf in a squirty bottle so i though ok squirt some down the carb and well it was a little smoky but it would wanna run but still not continue to run... so dumb fool me forgot i got a compression tester. did the compression test 95psi... so did a google and see what is ok for a two stroke... and well well 120-150psi so she is down quite low, its low enough according to a google search to barely want to run if it can run. ok so i never took notice of the bore at the time as the motor looks like its only done so many hours and looked in a reasonable condition... well yeah maybe not the case so id say its done a fair few hours and the rings are at the rooted stage, so him mucking with the ignition would prove useless and a waste of money.

so i got the bad news to tell him about it, now cause its such a long time since it was made im gonna bet you cant get a set of rings. so watch this space i have a few more tricks i can try to get it to run once again.

i hope that max gara is still on here he can follow in on this topic, i dont like to walk away from a engine until ive exhausted all my possibilities im around 12hrs of mucking with it so far so each arvo for about 4 hrs i work on it.

but off the subject i have got another motor he gave me to keep a 5hp briggs and that will not wanna stay running and leaks badly around the updraft carb so im putting my money down that its a compression issue as well as everything seems fine on that engine.

Tony.

When the mower starts surging after 10 minutes, hook the tester up and see if it will consistently jump a 6–8 mm gap. If it jumps strongly when cold but becomes weak or intermittent when hot, I'd be very suspicious of the ignition coil breaking down with heat. If the spark remains strong while the engine is surging, I'd go back to chasing a fuel-mixture problem.

You can get a spark tester under $20. Adjustable Ignition Spark Tester T&E Tools 3404

Hi Flyingicarus

With the symptoms you describe, the next step is to determine whether the problem is fuel-related or an ignition (spark) problem.

When the engine starts surging after about 10 minutes, try pulling the choke on slightly. If the engine immediately runs smoother or the surging improves, that points to a lean fuel mixture problem. It could be caused by a fuel delivery restriction, an air leak, or a carburetor issue that only shows up once the engine is warm.

Another good test is to remove the air filter and, while the engine is surging, spray a small amount of Start Ya Bastard (or a similar starting fluid) into the carburetor throat. If the engine smooths out or picks up, that strongly suggests a fuel mixture problem rather than an ignition fault.

If neither of those tests improves the way it runs, I would start looking at the ignition system. A common fault is an ignition coil that breaks down as it heats up. The engine will run perfectly when cold but begin misfiring and surging once the coil reaches operating temperature.

A cheap adjustable spark tester can be very useful here. Check the spark when the engine is cold and running well, then compare it to the spark when the surging starts. If the spark becomes weak or intermittent when hot, the coil is likely failing.

The advantage of an adjustable-gap spark tester is that it allows you to test the coil's voltage output against a specific resistance, providing a much more reliable diagnosis than simply looking for a spark in open air. These testers work on everything from modern electronic ignition systems to small engines, making them a handy tool to have in the toolbox.

The results of those tests should quickly tell you whether you need to keep chasing a fuel issue or focus on the ignition system.

Cheers
Max.

I have a Rover Ranger 547 with 67 hours on the clock from new. The engine starts and runs fine, but after about 10 minutes as the engine warms up I get a miss fire and the engine is surging. I have fitted a new fuel filter, replace the fuel in the tank, checked the fuel cap breather. Removed and checked and cleaned the carburetor, fitted a new fuel soleniod. Fitted a new spark plug and still I have this surging problem after about 10 minutes of running. I do not know where to look next. Where I live there is no Rover service agent and the spare parts I need have to come from 6000Kms away.