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Noted

Will consider that

Agree

Regards

Brake cleaner is similar to carb cleaner but uses slightly different chemicals.
It works well enough that I'll use it for carbs if I don't have carb cleaner and I use it as a good general parts cleaner.

I use this spray gun cleaning kit.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-17-piece-spray-gun-cleaning-kit_p6290484

You should really remove orings and other seals when cleaning a carb.
Carb cleaner and brake cleaner can both cause damage to them although some cleaners are less aggressive and can be less likely to damage them.
And ultrasonic cleaners can also cause damage to orings either through swelling or straight up disintegration of old worn seals.

Sometimes there's a bit of trial and error to find a good cleaner that doesn't damage plastics and rubber.

Thx looktall for the instructions and informative details,,,,,I have few questions :

1- Brake cleaner would it clean as well ,,,,,?

2- Is there a good brand one you recommend ? I need to have it in my repair kit

3- Do you think ultrasonic would be a most effective thing to clean without affecting the rubber seal ?

I've seen it suggested that in lieu of an ultrasonic cleaner you can simmer your parts in a pot on the stove top.
You don't want it boiling just simmering.
You'll want to remove any plastic and rubber o rings. Just put metal components in.
You'll want to use a gentle cleaner like dish washing liquid or something that won't eat the aluminium.
You'll probably want to do it outside if you can and you'll probably also want to avoid using the pot again for food.

Having said that I also don't have an ultrasonic cleaner so I normally just disassemble the carb fully (remove emulsion tubes and jets etc) and give it a going over with carb or brake cleaner and give it a scrub with a brass wire brush for the external parts and use a spray gun cleaning kit for the jets and tube and internal passages.
If it's really gummy (like a thick gel) I find acetone makes short work of it.
If that fails, I usually just replace the carb.

Dear All

I have got a Kartcher pressure washer 4000 psi 3.6GPM with Honda GX 390 ,,,,I have used 3 times so far and I forgot to drain petrol before store in its shed,,,,,basically it is new

Yesterday when I tried to clean the carburetor I realized it is badly covered with gum and I used a carburetor cleaner ,,,,it cleaned it but not completely clean


I don't have ultrasonic machine and I prefer not to use a harsh chemical ,,,,,what other suggestions can be considered ?

Thx

Legend! Thankyou, that’s much appreciated. The engine code is 7509300 so it’s a late 1975 engine, which I guess makes it most likely a 1977 model mower?

The handlebars are a shame, and squished how they are I don’t think are repairable, so I’m searching for some.

Update....

When I reassembled the carb I set the poppet valve to the 'A' setting. I mowed for about 15 minutes on full throttle before the same problem of it starting the stall. I left it for the day then set the poppet valve to the 'C' setting.
Mowed with a full fuel tank on full throttle with no stalling. Re-fueled and mowed for another 15 minutes (I live on a large corner block) with full throttle.

I can't recall what the setting was before but would have been the 'A' setting as I recall the revs were lower than the 'C' setting. One thing I did notice is on the 'A' setting when it was idling the revs were very low but doesn't explain why it would suddenly start to stall after a while on full throttle when it was fine before. Anyway I may experiment with another poppet valve and see what happens.

Thanks for your replies.

There's an old thread on here that suggests mowers with stickers such as yours are from the late 70s.
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/109411/re-sb-45-id-plates.html

If you look on the side of the blower housing (probably near where the carb bolts to the head you should find some words and numbers stamped on there.
It should list "model" "type" and "code" with corresponding numbers below.
Model is the model number of the mower.
Code is a date stamp. Usually written as yymmdd plus a few extra numbers that I believe are related to factory.
So if your engine is original the code will probably start with a number somewhere between 77 to 80.

It's shame what someone did to those handlebars. They're in otherwise pretty good condition and looks unnecessary given it has what is possibly the original engine.

I can't see any obvious cracks in the frame but sometimes you can't see them until you remove the engine to inspect.

It should clean up nicely.

Hi guys

Brand new to my first restoration, and am hoping I can get some help ID’ing this mower. I think I’ve picked it up in fair (?) condition, but honestly I’m not too sure. Maybe a 450520 but it has a sticker instead of metal plate.

Cheers!