Received one of these with the motor hanging off the deck attached only by the self-propelling belt and the cables.
The deck had rusted away around the three mounting bolts and it was on its way to the tip. A thick mass of dried grass cuttings was under the deck and on top leaf litter and grunge, no wonder it had rusted.
The motor had good compression and I thought it worth a bit of time and effort. Getting the crankshaft boss off was a hassle. Disconnected the self-propel mechanism, rotated the motor 30 degrees and drilled new mounting holes into the deck, cleaned out the fuel system and now have a nicely running mower, quite powerful.
Anyone wanting the SP drive belt let me know, yours for the cost of postage.
Yes Morrison is correct ,I just call them Masport as Masport took over Morrison in 1986
I've got a couple bases the same one branded Scott Bonnar but both Morrison
I don't think it would be late fifties., my Scott Bonnar has the same wheels.
It does look like your motor was changed or just the cowl but wheels look later than fifties on your mower.
1960s-1970s: As global mower manufacturers started to innovate, cross-tread tires began to appear more widely by the late 1960s and early 1970s, both in the U.S. and in Australia. This was driven by improvements in traction, durability, and maneuverability for mowers.
So, while cross-tread tires appeared a bit earlier in the U.S., they likely became common in Australia by the late 1960s as well, though not necessarily across all brands or models immediately. There would have been a mix of straight-tread and cross-tread models during the transition period.
Ex Penrith City Council; I used it for many years mowing my 2 acre yard until I got a ride on. Was running when parked (always under cover) about 8 years ago, but was proving hard to start. was always powerful when running. Collection only from service road 1732 - 1760 Mt Gravatt Capalaba Rd Chandler Qld. Will be going out for kerbside collection tomorrow afternoon, but I would prefer it went to someone who would appreciate it, rather than go to land fill. A great mower. Also a 10 year old but never used or even started Tomahawk pressure blaster. Must take both. Reply to this thread with time to collect if you want them.
Most cordless drills are designed for intermittent duty: drill a hole, drive some screws, then rest. Continuous high‑load use (like spinning a mower reel for many minutes) will:
Heat the motor and electronics quickly, shortening tool life or causing thermal shutdown.
Drain batteries very fast, especially under high torque.
Increase the risk of sudden stall and wrist‑twisting kickback if the reel jams.
You can play with it as a short‑burst experiment, but as a practical “powered mower” solution, a drill will be under powered, hard on the tool, and not very durable.
Powering something with a drill is best with hexagonal shaft in chuck and you can hose clamp the chuck from coming loose.
Most people just fit a scooter electric motor , there are a few on Youtube.
Possibly if there is enough room you could drill the spot weld from the outside and bolt it together putting a fibre washer on both sides.(use the headed end of the bolt in the tank that has the metal washer and head as one part.
If you can't braze or silver solder the tank yourself , I don't think it's worth fixing , even a tank repair putty is at least $10. you may as well spend a little more on a new tank ,or just fit any tank you can find.
