Craig, re your paintwork. I was quoted $350.00 today for "wet spray paint" hammertone (professionally painted), rather than powdercoat as there are more green colour options available. This includes reel, catcher & all components in your pics, plus outer/ inner clutch cone, clutch handle & bottom blade holder. How does that compare to your quotations for similar work thus far? I have used this fellow before & his work is top notch. Cheers Ross
Well It has cost me 35 dollars so far as i only paid for the sand blasting. I was lucky enough to know a paint supplier who gave me a litre of hammertone green enamel (for nothing) to spray.. I had the red paint already in the shed - galmet signal red and mixed a dash of golden yellow to make the briggs orange. That will be for the engine and reel..
But i suppose if i had to pay for all the paint you could set aside say $75 at least. So total $110 for the paint and sandblast and all labour done by me. I think thats getting out of it pretty cheap though!
So Id say 350 is probably a fair price for someone else to do it esp if he has to prep it all.. But if you do it yourself you need the tools, materials, consumables such as thinners, masking tape, clean up, utensils etc plus the time.. So I'd say for everything painted with no fuss or worries it'd be reasonable..
The thing I keep reminding my self is that to buy a new 20inch cylinder mower i am looking at upwards of $1400. So if i can get away with spending half that or less for a fully restored machine with all new components, bearings etc you'd be getting an ok deal..
I have also spent $100 on getting the handle bars rechromed. I am yet to buy bearings and other small parts I require. I'm thinking my resto will be up around 350 but i have done it all myself and have had luck with having a few things already.
hi aussie, the hammertone paint i used is a custom mix to the inside of the chain cover. it takes a bit to get it right, as the base code that scott bonnar used to form their green, is not available and yes the kirby engine and the cylinder cutter are the same color which is the way they came out of the factory and that color is called international orange. both above colors i add 369 hardener and apply with spray gun 10% enamel thinners and 8 mls per ltr of hardener at 30 psi. the decals i have a friend who makes them their not crap...they are made to suit the elements back to matching the green. Its done with several hammer colors, this would have to be noted next time i get some made and i could pass on the ratio; but with the info above seek out a paint supply in your area. Good luck regards steve.....
Hi Craig, just a reminder, it depends on the "model" of the SB 45 that determines certain factors, as there were significant changes between the two.
The "Mark 1" shall we say, has; a solid engine deck, a solid cast height adjuster knob, cast alloy front roller end-caps with rivets, different grass deflector upper screws, cutter chain tension set-up, horizontal chain case cover screws, different complete frame colour and early SB stickers and decals. (Steve's machine)
The "Mark 2" has; a 2 piece split rail engine deck, cast alloy height adjuster knob, plastic front roller end-caps, polypropylene cutter chain tension set-up, vertical chain case cover screws, the last version of the hammertone green and the "shield type" SB logo on the catcher, chain case cover, and handlebar cover plate.
Seeing you are doing a thorough, back to original, ground up restoration, the "Mark" of your machine is important for frame colour and stickers.
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
hi! all i have attached a photo of what a 3 piece chassis looks like which was changed to a 1 piece with welded engine rails as opposed to a single engine deck that was bolted on. regards steve....
Devoisi, The three piece / solid deck, looks much sturdier than the one piece / split rail engine mount frame I have..
Where the engine sits on my split rails it looks like they (the rails)"sag" a little. Will this be a problem for proper engine / clutch shaft alignment?
I noticed another forum members' machine looked to have had a similar issue, Stu45 from memory..
Also, my machine has all the details as Deejay has explained to match a "Mark 2" though has horizontal chain case cover screws..?
Hi Craig and Steve, I have a sneaking suspicion that your machine Craig must be a "Mark 1 1/2" which would be a very early model "Mark 2" which would have been a transitional machine using some bits from the "Mark 1".
Shame they didn't put on the solid deck tho....
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
Steve, thank you for posting these tips for other restorers. Your mower restorations are the most impressive I have seen, and are an inspiration to others. Both your techniques and your execution are remarkable - any time you are willing to pass on a hint to the members here, I think you'll find people listening with close attention.
Hi Craig, here are the pics of the decals as applied to the last model (aka "Mark2") Scott Bonnar Model 45.
Handle bar cover decal
Catcher and chain case cover decal
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
Hi Grumpy, I totally agree with you there, I think Steve's attention to detail is absolutely brilliant and the end result of his restorations is better than factory finish, and a real credit to him. Any hints he can pass on will be greatly appreciated by all members.
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
Deviosi has set the standard with absolutely brilliant restorations! I have in fact printed off all of his work for ideas, tips and indeed inspiration! Throughout stages of my restoration i have thought... damm, how did he get this so neat and perfect.. great attention to detail!!!
On another note.. I have just finished rebuilding my catcher. Not quite as good as Deviosi's but I'm ok with the end result. will post some pics soon.. The engine is painted and the frame is ready for final coat. Handle bars and accessories are back from the electroplaters. Awaiting a few spares from turf machinery, my local bearing shop and a metal supplier for my front roller and finally put it all back together..
Craig, did you get hold of some decals?? I could use a few myself, for front of catcher, chain cover & handlebars if I could find who makes them. Thanks- Ross
Not yet Ross, working on that at the moment, Devoisi did say he had a contact though.. Maybe if you get a hold of him? I would be happy to know aswell! Other wise I'm going to get someone local - sticker maker to make some up.. I'll give him the design. Prioity is to get the thing back together first! Lawn needs a mow!.
A guy from Adelaide on Ebay is selling some SB decals. I have purchased the green pentagon for the catcher and round red decal for the handle bars to suit the early 1980 Model SB45's. Im not sure if he does the chain case cover though.. So if Anyone is interested have a look. Cheers, Craig.
The Green ended up being a bit deep and maybe a bit too blue but it'll do me.. The red is pretty spot on.. The rear main roller is painted white, I understand it won't look like that forever but when the paint wears off the high spots it should look ok with white grooves anyway. I needed to paint the rear roller as surface rust would have appeared quickly after cleaning it back to bare metal. It was etch primed and painted with rustproof white paint (Galmet). I did not want to paint it green as it just felt like too much, I wanted to break it up a little. The green and red colours were just eye matched.. All painting done with spray gun. Will post some more pics once I start rebuilding. Cheers, Craig.
My on a nice resto thus far, Craig.....Don't know about the white rear roller tho..Lol!
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
I have started to reassemble after painting though have a small query regarding the rear main roller..
With regards to the rear main bearing housings (2 off) one has three holes (no adjustment) and the other has one hole and two slotted holes (adjustable). Manuals I have downloaded do not indicate which side of the frame the adjustable housing must fit to.
Q1) What is the purpose of rear main roller adjustment? It adjusts the height of the frame on one side only and effectively tilts the frame but why?
Q2) I have already assembled the rear main roller and fitted the adjustable housing to the drive chain side. Is it critical for the adjustable housing to be on any particular side?