I bought a rather abused Rover 45 from my local rubbish tip shop for $30. Can anyone advise how old it is by the ID tag? Details are: 45058 SN: 3030216
Also, I'm aware its still a Scott Bonnar 45, but what have they changed since taking over? Visually it looks the same as my Scott Bonnar 45. Can post photos if needed.
Attached are some photos. Have a laugh at the non-existing clutch housing and the galv sheet which I assume is a guard......to protect them from dodgy welding.
As you can see, it's been hand painted black over the original colour Red.
Now I can say I've seen it all and can sleep peacefully tonight.
I've never seen such an attempt at bypassing a clutch assembly. It's a bit like welding a diff up for a skid pig.
Well enough of the shocks, so what you have is an early 1990's Rover Red. I'd say the engine is still the original unit but can now be rendered useless after you cut it free from the transfer shaft as it's crank is totally mutilated.
I guess my next question to you is, what is your ultimate goal with this mower ?
Only then can I advise you on the next step.
Cheers, BB.
PS. Jack can you please put these photos in the "do not release as advise" file LOL !!
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Looks dangerous...That is a serious hack job welding the PTO shaft directly to the clutch drive shaft. You're looking at serious money if you decide on repairs. You'll need to go for a complete new clutch assembly (3 parts), including bearing, spring, cork, keys, a new clutch drive shaft, deflector (missing?), deflector clamp (missing?), catcher(missing?) and probably new engine crankshaft. Engine is not original? and it is also missing a fuel cap, air filter, air filter housing, flywheel cowling, recoil starter pulley, recoil spring etc. Can't really tell, but it looks as if the carburetor/governor linkages are toast too. Other issues will be worn bearings, sloppy front roller end caps and shaft wear. Only saving grace is a reel and bottom blade that might be in good condition for sharpening. I can tell you that a rough paint job (especially by hand) was almost certainly a way to hide any defects in this mower (of which there are many).
I would head back to the tip to get my $30 back. Just because they are a tip, there is still a duty of care, trust me if somebody was injured I bet some smart lawyer would be able to make a case against them
I understand where you are coming from as far as the amount of bits and pieces required to get this machine back into some sort of serviceable order, but as I have plenty of these in far worse condition then I could get this machine up and going in no time into a well running machine. I must admit I'm a tad perplexed at how you come to the conclusion that the engine is not the original. Personally I would hoik the donk back to the tip and find a suitable replacement, but for Corduroy before going any further I would check out the state of the rails and see if they are cracked, if they are then I'd use this one as a parts donor and bin the rest. Consider this xhall, at $30 you try and find any parts for these machines under that figure. If you only salvaged the reel and a few sprockets you've got your monies worth. Have you priced a bearing carrier lately ?
I'd like to see some photos of the drive train with the chain case removed.
Honestly I know it doesn't look good but sometimes after all the gunk is stripped off you might find a salvageable machine underneath.
Cheers, BB
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Thanks. I was only after the age of the mower and would you know the differences between the Rover 45 and the Rover-Scott Bonnar 45? I had a quick look there doesn't seem to be any difference.
I agree $30 is very cheap. I could sell the reel/cylinder and bottom blade for that price.
The purpose in buying it was to rebuild it back to original condition. I have a lot of parts left over from other rebuilds. Link to my last rebuild:
The gears and chain appear to be in reasonable condition. I think the engine is the only part I'll be chucking. If anyone is in Perth, message me and you can have the engine for free....a lot of parts are missing though, fuel cap, air filter etc...
Finally, a picture of another persons attempt to stop the clutch from spinning from my last rebuild. If you have the right glue it is such an easy fix, rather than going to the extreme lengths to bolt or weld.
$30 as parts is fine, don't buy much for $30. What annoys you is the fact that whoever welded the shaft up had a reasonable idea of what he was doing, not an easy task to get a shaft welded up to run true like that. I assume it must have been reasonably true for the motor to be still attached to the frame and not wrapped around the handelbars
You're a seasoned campaigner in Model 45's. I just had a quick look back at your previous Scotty you did and it just oozes class. So you can see the value in this particular machine. Just the cutter sprocket is worth the bucks you paid for the whole unit.
As far as age is concerned, these are still in the same boat as the Briggs powered Scotty's and that is with the engine build date that's stamped into the air cowling of the engine, but as yours is missing you'll never know. All I can say is that it is an early 90's machine as it has the forward facing clutch lever and has no screw holes in the rails for the attachment of the plastic clutch cover that was fitted in the later "reds", first forward and then rearwards at the end of 45 production.
There really wasn't anything different between the earlier units and the later ones apart from the slight change of the handle bar assembly which was a bit tighter together at the top and felt a bit more uncomfortable than the earlier machines that felt a bit more relaxed.
Catcher rubbers were changed to bolt on opposed to push on when Rover took over. Different hand grips and also some other really minor cost cutting things but nothing that one would really notice.
Cheers, BB
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Great. Thanks BB, I appreciate the help and comments you have given.
The green SB45 I restored close to two years ago is still going strong. The only complaint is the engines starter pulley sticks out too far, so I need to be careful not to hit things.....
I'll start another post when I begin to restore the Rover45.
Funny you've mentioned that factor as when I looked at your highlighted thread this morning the first thing I thought of was that the particular Honda you've chosen just doesn't work as that's the close cutting side of the machine opposed to the chain case side which presents it's own set of issues in relation to that matter.
Cheers, BB
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Unbelievable !!!!! Now I can say I've seen it all and can sleep peacefully tonight.
Hello Corduroy, vccomm, xhall, Norm and Mod BB, Yep, that's up there with the best butchers' cuts.
Having said that, it appears to have had a short but harsh life, and it all is repairable. The transmission seems to have had only average use and is in sound condition.
BB, I wonder whether the black paint helped protect the steel from the terrible defects of the original powder coating?
All-in-all, a great project that Corduroy could easily weave, from an ugly duckling into a beautiful Perth Swan.
Hi All,
A little late in updating....attached are some photos of my completed SB. Quite happy with how it ended up.
Those with a keen eye may see a minor error.....
If you're implying that the Primary clutch lever should've been zinc plated and not painted black, then what about the power plant being Honda and not Briggs.
Regardless it's a credit to you and we rarely see a Rover Red rebuilt and in it's former glory. They were a vast optical improvement over that awful Kermit Green that they first used at Eagle farm.
Maybe I'm a bit biased as I like anything Red.
Red & white or Red , yellow and Chrome are one of the best marketing colour schemes and always attracts the eye.
Well Done !
Cheers, BB AKA R45B at times.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Thanks for the comments. But yes, a red car is always faster than a white car.
The error I was referring to were the Rover stickers. One has a yellow stripe and the other is white. I believe the white stripe identifies the original Rover's and the yellow stripe is on the newer models. I would have preferred to have the same colour, but as said, only minor.
I did notice that but felt you weren't aware of it and I would've felt that I was just nit picking with that discrepancy. Yes I to prefer the yellow with the red as they are complimentary colours together just like the Gold Coast Suns Guernsey's I'd say.
I really liked the last issue of the Model 45 apart from that ugly plastic clutch cover they introduced as a part of OH&S.
I'd say yours is an early version as it doesn't have the screw holes in the rails for the cover to attach to the chassis. (I've mentioned this previously)
Again a superb job you've done and you are to be commended on your efforts.
Cheers, BB.
I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Re-reading the start of this post with the photos and even a post saying I should take the mower back to the tip makes it even more pleasing to have finished the restoration.
Finally, there are posts about Scott Bonnar and Rover not having many of the technical drawings and data of the parts. I�m wondering if you know the standard dimensions of the sleeve that allows the inner clutch pad to engage/dissengage?
The reason I ask is because I have 4 clutch sleeves (the clutch inside the chain cover) from various SB 45s and 1 of them fits my mower. The other 3 are too big to fit inside the bearing. I�ve measured them with a vernier and the difference in the OD is around 0.26mm.
My mower works fine so this is more of a curious question as why there would be different sizes.