Don't worry about the clutch, that is a separate issue for later, get the sprockets working first and as Paul says the sprocket should come up against a shoulder and be clear of the bearing. Hold a piece of string across the face of the lower sprocket and see what the alignment is like to the upper sprocket, I'm tipping the upper sprocket would be out further
some more pics,the shaft wont come through any more,there is previous damage on mounting plate,am starting to think maybe it is wrong clutch for this model
I'm assuming the last pic is the outside housing where the sprockets mount? What has been rubbing up against it, has the bearing done that? If this is the case there is an incorrect or missing distance piece, nothing should be touching that housing except the 2 bolts holding the bearing on. Assemble the parts on the shaft as it should go together without the housing and take another pic for us to look at. I don't think the problem is the clutch
The assembled picture is correct, what you have to achieve is the distance piece must be hard against the bearing and the sprocket hard against the other side of the bearing. Then you are able to tighten the sprocket to the shaft and it will rotate as designed. Then you have to work out what is binding up on the outer frame plate because something is binding up there. The assembled clutch shaft looks correct with the correct amount of thread showing through the sprocket
it's back together, cleaned primary clutch, replaced some bearing's that were missing, thought about what you said Norm about the distance piece, the only way was to turn the reel sprocket opposite to the pic,did the trick just need the nylon piece's that work the reel clutch will make some i guess. the binding damage was from the the guy i got it from,like me he tried a few way's but gave up,Norm,Jack,Paul,Greenpool,thank you...i will say these mower's are fast i am almost running to keep up.will post pic's soon cheer's
A note for the record on the catcher decal you have chosen. It says 'Manufactured by Atco (Aust.) Pty. ltd. That, of course, is not the case with your machine. It was fully imported.
p.s. I love the Lincoln too. I bet it runs on the smell of an oily refinery
i just couldn't resist the Aussie decal that's all.i have two lincoln's and yes i drive them all the time,they run premium too that hurt's the wallet but what the heck...now it's one of the victa imperial's turn for a clean up,thank's again fella's
Hey mate that's looks awesome!!! Sorry I didn't respond to your requests for help . I have been busy and didn't check the web page for ages . The 23 in the B 23 means the cutting blade width is 23 inches . So your mower is an Atco Deluxe B 23 . You can check it by getting a tape measure and measuring the width of the mower . I can tell by looking at it it's bigger than mine ( my mower!) I have a B 14 . Well done - they cut really well and the clutch / drive set up is really good ( well I think so anyway !!!!
Yeah I don't get it either . I was told the number corresponds to the width of the blade , clearly that isn't correct . I am curious about the driveshaft on my mower now .
I just measured it , its about 17 and a half inches. I am embarrassed to admit I never measured it before . I just took it as correct !! GML do you know how to remove the coupler claw off the driveshaft ??
I undid the grub screws but the coupler claw isn't budging!!! It has a locking pin in it ( I forgot what they are calked ) but it's on super tight! I have removed the engine from the mower but the claw won't budge!!! Anyone got any ideas??
it is a key way,i put wd40 in grub screw holes let soak and with a hammer and piece of wood tapped claw back towards engine first then back the other way, it took some patience.good luck