OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Yet Another SB45 Tragic

Hi all. I'm a 3rd generation SB45 tragic, and thanks to the inspiration of this site am going to attempt a rebuild of a SB45. I have been using one for a year or two that a previous tenant dropped a Dunlite pump engine on...works OK, but is overpowered, and the pull cord housing projects way too far out over the RHS which makes mowing close to a wall impossible. It is in dire need of remachining the reel and blade as well.

So...I recently had the opportunity to purchase a newer model in v good condition..one owner, full service history, including purchase receipts from 1992...and I mean full...I am pretty sure he wrote down each time he hand washed the thing...It needs work on the reel too, but i'm going to focus on the older one first.

This is the new one. It is in very good condition for a 20+ year old mower.

This is the older one. Not sure on its age as no engine to date against. I have pulled the engine off, but had to split the clutch as it is pretty wedged in there. I assume I should just be removing the two square head screws in the housing? any tips to get the clutch half off the engine? I will likely replace with a more compatible power plant.

I like your new mower, to remove the clutch from the engine undo the nut on the cotter pin and knock the pin through. The clutch should then with a little persuasion come off. Go to YouTube and search Scott Bonnar 45 and there are some excellent step by step videos by Deejay which show you how.

[video][/video]

Saved you the search, enjoy

Thanks Paul. I picked up the latest one for a bargain $400

I have seen that excellent video, it is very informative, as they all are...my clutch is the newer one with the two square head grub screws rather than the captive cotter. I was just confirming you merely remove both screws? Also I have the engine off, but had to seperate the clutch halves to do it as the engine half (nor the other side) is coming off anywhere as easily as in that video. I just wanted to check the best way as I am reluctant to just start blindly banging with a mallet...

I would say that the two screws are all that hold it on the shaft, there will be a key way in the crankshaft to keep it aligned.

Hi Paradox,

The two set screws are designed to pin the clutch body to the PTO shaft. One pins the body onto the key steel and the other 90 degrees from the key way. What you'll find is that the set screws have points on them and as such pierce into the shaft thus making it a tad had to slide the shaft off as there will be a bit of a bur on the shaft that the clutch has to slide over.

You might find that you need a larger 3 leg puller to give it that extra bit of force without any striking involved.

BTW what's wrong with the current power plant ?


Cheers,
BB

OK, thanks BB. I think I have read that a 3 leg puller will be a good investment...might be a trip to bunnings or supercheap.

The existing engine (Suzuki V120) works fine, but protrudes about 2 inches over the RHS of the mower frame. You can see it in the shot above... This prevents you being able to mow close to a wall - which I have quite a bit of at my place....its not a deal breaker but does hamper proper operation of the mower and results in quite a wide strip than needs to be trimmed rather than mowed. It also means throttle control is at the engine and not on the handle. Again not a deal breaker, but also not ideal.

OK some shots of key elements for comment:

Rails are definitely cracked as far as I can see



Sprockets


Cutter Sprockets


Main drive


Looks to me like the smaller ones might need replacing? thoughts?

Hi Paradox, an from me a warm welcome to ODK.
Yes mate, the small 12 tooth sprocket plus the double front one have reached the end of their serviceable life and will need replacing as well as the primary and secondary chains....It is no good putting back old chains on new sprockets; they will have stretched and will wreck the new sprockets in no time at all!

Thanks DJ, the advice is much appreciated. The chains look OK so I would not have considered replacing them, but will do so

I am going to need services of a Engineering shop to weld the cracks, profile the reel and blade, and probably sand blast and prime the lot. I am bayside Brisbane, if anyone can suggest some options...

cracked engine rails... very common easy fix tho! vee grind the cracks with a small grinder fill with weld dress site so its level or it will crack as soon as you bolt the engine back on hope this helps regards deviosi....

Hi Paradox and deviosi,

This is the best way to solve the rail problem. It's called the Gusset repair method and the following link shows a good example of it.

https://www.outdoorking.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=64426#Post64426

This doesn't just repair the cracks but actually strengthens the whole rail so as to avoid it opening up again in a couple of years. It is crucial that the original nuts are tied in to the gusset as well and once that's all done then I would follow deviosi's method of solving the the cracks on top.

Cheers,
BB

Hi paradox.... when i put this 45/14 back together i ordered cutter intermediate and drive chains (2010) i dont recall where could find out tho. The set came heavier than standard no complaints worked well when completed...

Nice machine Deviosi...!!

What do you guys do to clean up the hardware you are keeping but not otherwise coating? Nuts, bolts etc?

Ive struck a bit of a problem....one of the sole plate fastenings. No idea what has caused this. I can only imagine a previous owner has been regularly running it along a concrete edge or something..

Due to the loss of material I just cannot get any spanner to lock into it, and the thread is pretty messed up so its pretty stuck.... Any ideas? I was thinking of drilling it out....

i would carefully cut of the protruding thread and remove the nut.

Im not sure that will help. The thread is damaged below where I could cut it and the nut is still on very securely. The others took a lot of encouragement to move and had no damage to the thread. Getting decent purchase on this one is problematic and everything I have tried so far fails to move it. It seems a very soft metal I will say....

that's a better pic.

hi paradox
to remove the damaged nut and bolt I would use a four or five inch angle grinder,
with a thin metal cutting disc, I would cut 3/4 of the nut completely off, then change the thin cutting disc for a grinding wheel and grind the rest of the nut and bolt down to the washer then it will come out , use a steady hand gloves and safety glasses , the washer will act as a backing to protect your machine if you grind a tat to much .
good luck damo

You could try a single hex socket and a breaker bar, clean up the end of the thread that is burred over as that will effect the nut coming off. If you have access to an impact gun to use with the socket even better. If not and you want to save the thread hacksaw through on an angle and then split the nut off. Good luck

Thanks for the advice guys, I will give a hex socket one more go and if no joy will use the grinder. Will let you know how it goes.