OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Model 45 17" solid deck

Hi Scuba,

Well it seems that you're a tad in front of me and as such it is probably silly of me to go through the same process that you already have. Maybe we should put our heads together and come up with a viable venture ?

Cheers,
BB

Hi Steve (deviosi, for our newer members), thanks for stopping by. This project could benefit a lot from your involvement, if you have the time to join in.

There are a couple of key issues here. First, is the objective to make strong durable decks, or to make authentic ones to the original design, as is the usual (though not universal) practice with veteran and vintage cars? I think it is very important to have that clearly understood by people who are considering upgrading twin rail machines. Second, I've been told by several people that the most difficult part of getting things made in China, is getting the factory there to make it in accordance with the drawing, rather than taking assorted short-cuts as they go along. Even if you stick to your guns and keep rejecting samples until they finally make an accurate one, the short-cuts will probably be resumed in later production unless you are very attentive on an ongoing basis.

Scuba, I noticed there were no bolt holes for a one piece deck in your sideplates, and this confirms what BB had said. That means it will be important to figure out a way for people who are making conversions to get their bolt holes in exactly the right place. There are only two really accurate ways I know of: using an accurate jig, or using an NC milling machine. If people just drill their own holes to a drawing, the chances are nearly all of them will be out of position, will be drilled or filed oversize to get the bolts through the holes, and will turn the rebuilt mower into a corkscrew-shaped dog's breakfast that produces a lousy, uneven lawn. It will do no credit whatever to Outdoorking if this project ends up producing crummy mowers. BB, you might look at an alternative: ship a genuine solid deck sideplate in good condition to China and have them set up to produce copies on an NC mill. Then you could offer deck-and-sideplates kits to people who wanted to convert their twin rail machines. Ordinarily this would be too expensive to make sense, but such things can be done remarkably cheaply in China, provided you pursue the sourcing and negotiating process meticulously. Obviously the suppliers who are happy to supply decks and sideplates made precisely to drawings, are not the same ones who have an old folder and a pre-war pedestal drill in a wooden shed, and will give you a really good price.

Hi Grumpy

There was a bit a science used to drill the side plates out, actually helped having an original solid deck on hand, I do take you point though. This one being a prototype, can only get better from there. You also make a good point around looking original, you will notice the 90 degree bends on the fabricated plate is rounded and not square like the original. Anyway, have to start somewhere, cheers

I'm not sufficiently familiar with the original to notice small differences Scuba, the plan was to get a whole set of detailed pictures of a good original solid deck from every angle, then add dimensions, sheet metal thicknesses, full details of all of the welds, and so forth, so we have a reliable record here of it all, before anyone gets inventive and decides to make them out of Kraft single cheese slices.

How square you can get the corner of the bend depends partly on how thick the sheet is, and mostly on how good the folder/pan brake is, and how carefully you set it up. You probably know all that better than I do. Getting a good job of sheet metal folding is rather easy with a good brake, especially a power-operated one with limit switches, and close to impossible with a little benchtop folder, though I couldn't do it decently with either one.

To me the most important question to resolve is whether the objective is to make them exactly like the original. Of course I'd vote yes, but I'm not going to be making them.

No worries Grumpy, after I finish this 20 inch, I have one more to convert, not to sure what I will do with 3 x 20 inch mowers, but keeps out of trouble. Next time around I will take some drawings of the side plates from an original MK1 flat top and share with the group, cheers Scuba.

Scuba, can you find time to post pictures and dimensions of the details of the original unmodified solid deck, in the meantime?

Hi Scuba,
and many thanks for the trouble you are going to to help us resolve this issue...I would be excellent to have the pics and dimensions.

Hi Deejay

The original deck is being used as a template to fabricate the new deck, I will send through the measurements of the original and pictures of the re fabricated decks when I receive them in the next couple of weeks

Cheers

Thanks Scuba. We will need detailed pictures of original decks - if possible several of them - and dimensions of each, to make this thread an authoritative record of the Scott Bonnar solid deck design. Pictures of new reproduction decks are interesting but do not help us with the mission of documenting the design.

Can other members help out with this process of documenting the original deck please?

Hi

Just a progress update, I decided to get a Jig (6mm thick) made up that will be used to line up the holes for a twin rail to solid deck conversion. All the holes in the Jig where transferred from an original series 1 20Inch Scott Bonnar. Once you cut the top rails off the twin rail frame, you place the side plates on the jig and line up everything by inserting 8mm metal dowels in the holes where the rear roller and cutter support is mounted, once it is all locked in you flip the jig over (side plate down) and drill the holes used to mount the solid plate using a bench/pedestal drill. At this stage I have only done this to satisfy my own curiosity, and must admit that it would be cost prohibitive for those you want to go down this track, especially if you do not know people in the fabrication game, in saying that, I am still trying to work out a way to get all the dimensions of the mower to assist other members who may interested. Just remember that this is stage one, as you still have to get a solid deck fabricated (approx. $300), locate a bracket to hold the clutch mechanism and clutch cable. I have also posted a few pictures of the machine used to produce the jig and the finished product itself. Cheers.

I'm guessing the drill jig was made on the Bridgeport clone, not on that big Cincinnati vertical mill? What kind of plate (the material and hardness) did you make the jig out of?

Grumpy

You are correct in regards to the machine, in relation to the metal, that one is to technical for me, however as this thing won't get a whole lot of use, it's hard enough that the holes will not be flogged out after a couple of uses. I would assume that a shop would different material if it was being used for production purposes

Scuba, for production purposes you use very thick steel plate, with replaceable hardened steel bushes in every hole. The bushes wear out, even so. Personally I would not use your jig even for half a dozen plates, I'd just use it as a guide for centerpunching the holes so I could drill them by hand.

Grumpy, I dont disagree, as this is for personal use and it last long engough to convert both cracked twin rail frames to solid decks, then it has done it job, after that it will more than likely be headed to the scrap heap.

I agree that if you are very careful you should be able to get at least two perfect jobs from it, Scuba. I had it in mind that you might find yourself being asked to help out a number of other members though, and that is when you'd start to curse the original decision.

Hi Scuba, and thanks for posting the pics.
It is a shame we couldn't get some working drawings from all your hard work there.
Well done mate, good work.