OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Rover Ride On Mower Rover 53177 - Excessive Vibration

Hi all
I have a problem with a Rover ranger that has excessive vibration I have done all the adjustments correctly I have replaced the bearings on the belt pulley shaft the blades look ok.Is it possible that the blade base is at fault I was told that it doesn't take much it doesn't look to bad slightly pitted.Please need some answers before I go round the bend

The first question we need to have answered is, does the vibration stop when you declutch the cutter? If it does, we can at least be sure which system is vibrating. The next question is, what model of Ranger do you have? As well as giving us the model number, please post pictures of the mower, and the cutter system including clear pictures of the disk and blades.

Sorry Grumpy for the delay had to go away however am back. the vibration is only while engaged in cutter drive runs smooth otherwise,

Thanks stockman, I think we need a really simple way to isolate components until we have found which one is causing the problem. You could start by removing the complete cutter disk, including blades, and see if that eliminates the vibration. If it does, you could then remove the blades and put the bare disk back on, and see if the vibration is caused by the disk. If it still doesn't vibrate with the disk on, I think you'd need some new blades and/or blade mounting hardware.

On the other hand, if it vibrates with the disk removed, we'd be looking for a problem in the spindle, spindle mounting, cutter belt tensioner, or the deck mounting. We can work out a sequence for testing those bits if the cutter disk and blades turn out not to be to blame.

Ok thnks Grumpy will start the strip down and get back to you much appreciated for the help

Whipped off the cutter disc and blades started mower in gear no vibrations so put cutter disc back on without the blades & yep its the cutter disc had a feeling it was that but hoping it was something a bit cheaper oh well into the pocket I go thanks for your help catch you all later

stockman, you don't necessarily have to replace the disk to fix the problem. Now that you know it is the disk, you can check whether it runs true. Just put it on the spindle, set up a stationary pointer clamped onto the mower frame, and rotate the disk, noting any variation in the distance from the pointer. If the disk's rim moves up and down relative to the pointer, you can take it off and bend it, then try it again, until it doesn't move up and down. Then, if it moves in and out relative to the pointer (radial runout), put a chalk mark where it is furthest from the pointer. Take it off, put a bar through the hole in the center of the disk, and rest the bar across two horizontal metal rails. Chances are the bar will roll along the rails a bit then stop. Make a different chalk mark at the high point on the disk. Don't be surprised if it is fairly close to the other chalk mark you made. Then use a bit of blue tack or whatever to stick a bit of flat metal plus two short 8 mm bolts, nuts and washers, on a convenient flat part of the disk near the chalk mark, as far from the center as possible. If the disk rolls and you end up with the chalk mark at the bottom, use a smaller piece of metal. If it doesn't move use a larger piece. Eventually you will find a piece of fairly thin flat metal that lets the disk be put in any rotational position, and stay there. Drill two 8 mm clearance holes through the disk and bolt on the piece of metal. When you've got it so that it is perfectly balanced (it will stay in any position when sitting on the bar across the two rails) try running the cutter system with it on the spindle.

Remember, you need that piece of metal to stay there, not be hurled into the distance like a loose mower blade. It needs to be securely attached. You could weld it instead of bolting it if you prefer, but that makes it harder to adjust after you weld it: you'd have to use an angle grinder, or drill some holes in the weight without going through the disk as well and making a colander of it.

Hi grumpy
I think I will buy a new one might try what you said sounds like a long process but will give it a shot if i can fix it it will make a good second hand keeper only other thing the nut that is in the centre of the base plate is there supposed to have a large washer to hold the base to the shaft or are the 4 small bolts the only thing that holds the plate on

It looks as if it is supposed to have a fairly large thick washer, and all 4 bolts should to through it as well as the disk. The washer then supports the disk and keeps it from getting bent and running out of true. I can't tell at present whether the washer should have a small central hole so that the big nut holds it as well as the 4 bolts, or it would be a clearance hole for the big nut. However if you are going to buy a new disk, I recommend that you buy the washer at the same time. If you use the real part, there aren't as many unexpected outcomes.

Hi Grumpy there is a recess on the counter ballance above the disc and the disc sits into it also I don't see why the counterballance should have a big nut holding that on as it's threaded as well that's why I am questioning the disc washer just thought you would like to know I will do some more checking around sadly the mower mechs up here to say the least are a bit mower challenged when it comes to rideon's even though about every 3rd house has one. thanks again Grumpy for all your help.
Ed

We don't have a parts list for that model, Ed, or we could solve the problem easily. I think it is important to get it back to the original design, or you are likely to suffer from bending and/or cracking of the disk, which could be hazardous as well as expensive.

Hi All,

Below is the parts list from the online store for the model that you are talking about.

Thanks Bruce - it looks much the same as many other Rovers of that era, at least in the area we are concerned with.



The area in the red circle shows the cutter disk and how it is mounted. At this point I don't understand how Item 24, the disk boss, works and how the disk mounts on it. Also, there is no reinforcing washer underneath the disk, but the disk shows an un-pitted area the size and shape of such a washer on its underside. As Julius Sumner-Miller liked to say, "Why is it so?"

Just a thought, the main shaft may be bent.

If you strike something the shaft is the weak link and bends and vibrates.

Might be worth checking the shaft.

Mick

Good point, Mick. It runs smoothly with the disk removed, but the disk is heavy. If the shaft is bent, the disk will be running out of true, and its heavy weight would cause vibration, even if the disk is not damaged. This could be checked by the test I described in the balancing procedure: check whether the outside of the disk is running true. That is likely to be easier than checking whether the shaft runs true, and it tells you more: if the disk runs true, both it and the shaft are OK.

Thanks mick have checked thatout and seems fine

I have a parts manual for a Rover Rancher that I had some time ago with the same 30 in cut and it does not show a washer either it's the same set up as the one above the shaft i done a pencil test on it and it is running true(pencil held in the bottom thread of the shaft with motor running ) no push away so not the shaft

It seems to me that it is well worthwhile checking whether the disk runs out before you buy another one. We know it is the disk causing the vibration, but we don't know how it is doing it. Better to understand the fault before you buy an expensive new part, to be sure that it will fix the fault, and you need to buy it.

Hi Fellas
problem fixed new disc on and no vibrations Grumpy will work on the old disc and try to fix it and keep it as a second. the other problem I found don't know if it would cause any difference was the other owner had the blade bolts fitted upside down,anyway right way up now. thanks again for your help

As long as only the correct fittings were used on both the bolts, that shouldn't have caused any unbalance stockman.

I'm glad you've now got the mower back into useful condition - if you can find half an hour or so to check the balance of the old disk, you will probably end up with a good spare as well (unless whatever had caused the unbalance makes the disk unsafe to use). I'll close this thread.