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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 45
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Hello all, I've just purchased a Scott Bonnar 45 17". I wasn't planing on buying one as I just rebuilt my 14" but was too good to pass on. Can the gurus on these mowers give me some info and comments on this mower? My questions are after the photo. ![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2014/01/full-7458-14354-image.jpg) 1. Model 45058. Serial number 0500423. What's the estimated age of this mower? 2. The colour of the chassis doesn't appear to be standard SB Green and assume is been reconditioned. Is this correct? 3. The engine is a 3HP Tecumseh. It has what appears to be an American Indian as the symbol. Did these mowers originally come with this engine? 4. I'm planning on stripping the mower and completely rebuild it. Is there any advice or links to similar jobs? 5. Once rebuilt I will be putting my new sprockets and chains from my 14" onto the 17". Is there any precautions or areas I need to be aware of? I can supply more photos if required. Thanks all
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Corduroy, and ODK members, I would like to give you correct information, but to help us, to help you, we will need larger pics of your machine, from different angles, including the cylinder reel and bedknife blade. Please see the thread HERE The machine was made after the take-over by Rover, which was in 1980, and technically it is a Rover-Scott Bonnar. It is impossible to date a Scotty from the mowers model number or mower number. As the original Briggs and Stratton has been replaced by the Tecumseh engine, I can't even give you a rough date of manufacture of the chassis....Tecumseh engines don't have a date code like the Briggs.  (We use the date of manufacturing date of the engine to give us an approximate date of the mower manufacture.) From the look of the catcher, this machine has had a hard life, also considering it has had the engine replaced.  For some restoration advice, please read the sticky posts HERE 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 45
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Thanks Deejay for the reply. Sorry for late reply, been on holidays. I''ll post some photos later. But at the moment do you know if the colour "green" in the photo is the standard colour? By reading other posts the original hammered green was replaced when Rover bought the rights to SB and they changed the colour green to plain (not hammered finish). Also, I have found that there are no standard colour codes for either of the two colours. What is strange is the large drive roller has also been painted green. Is this a sloppy restoration job or did Rover paint their mowers like this? What also annoys me is the previous owner must have had clutch issues because they drilled a hole right through the clutch and inserted a bolt. All these things are making me think the previous owner was a careless owner. Though all this doesn't matter because I'm in the process of fully rebuilding it. Also thanks to the other members who are posting pictures of their rebuilt mowers. I'm getting a lot of advice and tips from you all. 
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Corduroy,Your machine with the painted rear roller was standard for the period....That's the green Rover-Scott Bonnar came up with to replace the hammertone. There are a couple of reasons that the previous tenant may have bolted the inner clutch...but I would need to see it in a pic....needless to say, a new clutch half may be needed to complete your restoration. Looking forward to seeing your pics, 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 45
Novice
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Thanks again Deejay. I wonder why they painted the roller. Once it rolls on pavers or concrete its going to cause the paint to come off and look ugly. Below is a picture of the bolt. I removed the nylock before taking the photo. Being a small hole I don't think it will cause vibration issues and at worse it could let in dirt. Due to the cost of these I will find a way to plug it up before I paint it.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi again Corduroy,Wow! I have seen some "tenants improvements" but I have never seen that before...  He has drilled right through the clutch cone, (which is cast iron) to obviously lock the whole clutch in the engaged position. I would guess that the clutch was out of adjustment and was slipping (or grabbing) and this nut and bolt was his 'fix'! Corduroy, what you will need to do now, is to remove the bolt, remove the bearing (it should be in the other (inner) clutch half anyhow); check the serviceability of that bearing, (replace if in any doubt)...check the engine clutch spring (if its still there, it may be missing) Next job will be to remove and renew the cork, it appears to be well past its used by... Next is to inspect the clutch cone for any damage caused by the drilling. The outer champhered face needs to be free of any burrs or anything that can catch on the cork during operation...perhaps a very slight countersink of the hole in it followed by a sand or bead blast to restore its surface to as new condition would suffice. You could then mask-up and paint the cone. I can step you through the adjustment procedure once its all back together, to give you back a functioning cutter clutch once more.  Re: the painted rear rollers, some of our members have restored their machines and painted the rear roller, Scott Bonnar never did, until Rover took over. Why? I cannot fathom, as you say, it will look ugly as the paint wears off....and it will even on grass! 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 45
Novice
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Yes, I agree that would have been the reason. I have had clutch slip on my mower before but would never go to that extreme. As you know you won't be able to stop the reel from spinning. I have two kids so a spinning reel poses a safety risk when you take the catcher off.
Thanks for explaning all that. I have replaced the cork pad before so I am familiar with the setup.
The bearing on the shaft, I believe this is the only "non sealed" bearing on the entire mower. I can shake the bearing and you can feel and hear the ball bearings move. I'm not sure if this is normal and if I need to oil it or if you can buy a sealed bearing like the others, eg on the reel ends. Would you know?
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 10
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi again Corduroy,That is a thrust bearing, and is the correct one for the machine. they are not sealed and seem happy enough to run dry....However, with my new one, on replacement, I forced some good quality bearing grease into the groove with my thumb, and it works like a dream and quiet as a church mouse. A thrust bearing works differently to the sealed bearings on the mower, it fits into the inner clutch half (engine side) and goes in rounded side first.  Please post some pics as you go along. 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 10
Novice
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Hello Corduroy,
From other mowers that I have seen like yours. The colour you have is the original.
Early 80's had a light hammered green with a orange B&S 60's to 70's a dark hammered green with orange kirby's
Original engine on yours is a black briggs and stratton 3.5hp. I have one available thats currently on a Victa imperial. (I'm in Perth) so yes, can sell to you if you want original but prefer to sell complete with Victa. You can then put the tecumseh on the Victa then sell that.... win, win.
Let me know.
Your mower age is late 80's to early 90's.
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 45
Novice
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Thanks again Deejay for the info.
Hi Trajkula, I have a 14" with a near new BS 3.5hp that I will be swapping over and then selling. Thanks for offering though.
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