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Testing
by Bruce - 03/05/26 03:39 PM
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 23
Novice
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Hi Jamskin. I picked up a gear puller today. It worked a treat.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Great to hear It sounds like your at exactly the same stage of renno that I am. Jason
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 11
Administrator - Master Technician
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Well done both of you, we're all looking forward to seeing the pics as you go along. Now that you have your machines completely stripped down, now is a good time to check to serviceability of all the bearings as you go along....if in doubt replace them; they are cheap by comparison with the time taken to pull it all apart again to replace a faulty one! Also. just a heads-up, the bearing on the engine shaft that you both just removed with the puller, is a self-aligning double row. It must be replaced with the same type if you replace it. Serviceability of the cylinder reel bearings is essential for the correct adjustment of the reel to bed-knife clearance.  Good work guys, 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Thanks for the heads up Deejay I did notice the Cylinder bearing had blown itself out. I am upgrading the 6 blade cylinder with a new 10 blade and will upgrade all associated components. The rear roller bearings on mine were very clogged and have been soaking in degreaser - Maybe it might be better to replace as well. On another note read the Scott Bonnar story last night that I purchased. Interesting history and makes you want to preserve Australian history even further. Thank you for your support and contribution Jason 
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 11
Administrator - Master Technician
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No worries Jason, my pleasure....it is guys like yourself that are keeping the dream alive; and, the name Scott Bonnar lives on!!  Good stuff!! 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 23
Novice
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After phoning around. I eventually found a place that would match the paint on my 45 perfectly. I left the chassis with them as there was a few spots under the chain guard and under the chassis itself that looked brand new. When I went to pick up the paint they told me there was a sample spot on the chassis. The paint was matched that good that I had trouble finding the sample and had to get the attendant that mixed up the paint to point it out. If any one is interested you can purchase this paint from Colour Fast Spray Painting & Panel Beating Supplies. They are located at Hillcrest Brisbane. Just quote the name colour and reference number. Colour name - Scotty B hammer green Reference number 559 -29 Although this looks identical to the original hammer finish green I was told depending on how the paint is applied will alter the finished result. Does anyone have any tips or have any experience with hammer finish paint they can share? I would also like to thank everyone for there help so far. This site has a wealth of information on it. Cheers
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Great Question Manch as I will be spraying hammer finish too. I was told by the guy at the paint shop to make sure its thick enough to get the true hammer finish. This sounds like a balancing act as if you are using a spray gun it usually needs to be fairly thin. Any advice in this topic would be greatly appreciated.
Jason
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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PS Glad you could match the colour too
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Hi Manch How's the reno going where are you up to? I took my chassis and sole plate in for sandblasting today looking forward to getting it all back.
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 23
Novice
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Hi Jamskin2 We are both at the same stage by the looks of it. I'm picking up my chassis etc from the sandblaster tomorrow. My handle bars are at the electroplater getting re-chromed and will be ready by the 26th. Im going to heed Deejay's advice and change out all the bearings. I have to drop by AWB bearings tomorrow and pick them all up . As I'm going to use the mower frequently I have also decided to go with the Honda GX120. How about you Jamskin. How,s it all going? Have you come up with a colour scheme yet? Deejays colour scheme with the delicious red looks quite smart. Good luck
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Hey great news re honda they are a great engine. Good idea re bearings as well. Good bearings make it all just work smoother and less wear on everything. I will be doing the same. I just purchased a new stainless steel front roller as well as it has bearings in it as well instead of just plastic caps per the standard. I have picked a colour scheme. I am going green hammertone. I am having the sandblaster who also doespowdercoating powder coat the sole plate, the cylinder in bright red. He is also powdercoating the black frame the front roller attaches to in satin black. I am having handle bars, height adjuster handle, and engine engager handles and fittings all chromed as well. I know they werent chromed originally. But i want to be able to keep it all polished and smick and looking new. Are you going to spray your chassis yourself? I looked at getting my chassis powdercoated again for durabilty and great finish but they didnt have the green hammer finish i wanted. Are you in Brisbane?
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 23
Novice
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Hey Jamskin. I will probable get the chassis professionally painted. I have never had any experience with a spray gun plus the company that performed the sandblasting can take care of the painting at a very reasonable rate. And yes I'm in Brisbane. Have you subscribed to the parts and manuals page on the forum? It was very helpful. I got the schematic and blew it up to put in the shed. Im hoping with this and the photos i have taken along the way plus the forum I don't have to many dramas putting her back together again.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 11
Administrator - Master Technician
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Just a heads-up Jason, the frame that the front roller is situated in was always silver from manufacture, and the alloy bearing holders for the cylinder reel were left as they were and never painted. 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Thanks Deejay - Yes Im leaving bearing holders as is just going to polish up to new. The black bar that runs along back of front roller and attaches to front roller on my model is black though. Are you saying this is different to normal or am I discussing wrong part?
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 11
Administrator - Master Technician
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No Jason, you are discussing the correct part; the whole frame for the front roller was silver on the Scotty....Rover must have changed it to black for some reason. I can't think why...
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 23
Novice
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![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2012/07/full-6052-7143-p7230250.jpg) All sand blasted and primed up.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Thats interesting Deejay - must have been a Rover thing as mine was original (as I got it from the original owner) yet painted black in almost like a black powder coat. Now Im torn
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Hey Fantastic Manch - Great fun ahead now for you.
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 11
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Manch, all looking fantastic mate, can't wait to see it painted. I see you've painted the bearing holders, that's OK on the outside, but be careful how much paint you apply to the inside of them, you will upset the fit of the bearings....don't forget these are also part of your reel to bedknife adjustment system.....if the bearing doesn't sit correctly, you will be in trouble with the final adjustment. You may decide to remove the primer from the inside of them.  On looking further, I see you've also painted the complete cutter clutch cone, you should have masked off the area that is the friction area that contacts the cork lining....it's a bit like you painted the inside of a brake drum...not a good idea, mate. 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 11
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Jason, sorry to throw the cat amongst the pigeons, It's up to your own thoughts mate....whatever you prefer mate! Just a heads up on the cutter clutch cone, please don't refinish the area of the cone that contacts the cork lining, the clutch won't operate correctly if you do. 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 23
Novice
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Thanks for the heads up Deejay. I will strip the primer on the cone that contacts the cork. I will also strip the primer from the inside of the bearing holders. Cheers Mate
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 11
Administrator - Master Technician
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No worries mate. I think you have made the right decision. 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Hi Manch Something I thought of last night that hasn't seemed to be raised is that if you are upgrading to a Honda GX 120 Engine for your mower you will need to ensure the Clutch assembly is the right diameter for the Honda engine shaft. I think they are 3/4 inch where as briggs are 5/8th. Some of the more experienced forum guys would be able to shed some light on this. I just know when I just purchased my Honda engine I had to upgrade clutch attachment as well. Jason
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 11
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi to Jason and Manch, I have contacted grumpy (our technical guru) to try and find out the correct shaft sizes for both the Honda's and the Briggs. 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926 Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
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I'm having some problems with this one Deejay. The 14" SB45s had the Briggs 60102 engine, which had a 5/8" output shaft. The 17" SB45s had the Briggs 80102 engine, and I can't find the output shaft size for that one. (The next size of engines up, the 9 series, had 3/4" output shafts.) The Honda GX120 normally has a 3/4" output shaft. There is a version of the GX120 with a 5/8" output shaft, but it is described as "threaded", so I doubt that would be much use.
I've heard there are SB45 clutches available with a 3/4" bore, which suggests to me that the wider models had Briggs engines with a 3/4 inch output shaft.
So Manch, I suggest you check the shaft diameter of your Briggs engine, and tell us what it is please, so we'll know next time. We already know that the 14" SB45 had a 5/8" engine shaft with a clutch to suit that, so conversion to a GX120 required a clutch change on that model. Your SB45 looks like a 17" in the picture. If its 80102 engine also had a 5/8" shaft, your clutch bore will be too small for the GX120. If your 80102 has a 3/4" shaft, the GX120 should fit without any changes being required.
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,362 Likes: 11
Administrator - Master Technician
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Hi Grumpy, thanks for you time and effort mate....much appreciated. 
Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member. Kindest Regards, Darryl
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Yes Thank you Grumpy & Deejay. I will check my Briggs size as well. The only reason I raised it was the guy who sold me my Honda GX 120 said I would need to from the conversions he has done before.
Will be interesting to know.
Jason
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 54
Trainee
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Hi Manch How is the restore coming along? Any Pics you can share?
Jason
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Novice
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Hey Guys,
I see that you have been the most recent doing restos on SB from QLD. I recently picked up a 45 17" with a B&S 3hp on it which still runs like a champ. I was wondering Jamskin2 which shop in QLD you got to do the paintwork (sandblast prime, and original Scott Bonnar hammertone paint coat) on your resto? I have stripped mine back to just frame and bought a new 10 blade cutting reel as I cut my QLD blue as low 12mm in the summer.
Cheers and Thanks
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Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 3
Novice
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Also another question for Jamskin2 how did you go with fitting your GX120 engine onto your SB? Were there any adjustments that needed to be made so the shaft was lined up with the clutch?
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