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Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 3
Trainee
Good afternoon all,

Pretty new to the ride-on side of house and as such starting from the bottom.

I have a stockman series 2 which, by all accounts is in good shape however it does make some interesting noises when moving.

I was told when I collected it that it was the drive mechanism that can be 'easily' replaced and after research I understand the component the seller was referring to is the drive cone (kit187).

I am however, unable to really identify the indicators for when the cone ctually requires replacement. As mentioned the drive train makes some serious noises operating the foot pedal but I don't want to spend $150 on a cone if the noise is from a bad bearing or something.

I have checked the gap between the cone and drive plates and they are. A touch over 1mm each side (I understand it should be 0.8mm to 1mm) and there is no slipping when operating.

Is there a cheaper, simpler culprit I can look at first?
What are the replacement indicators for a worn cone?

Regards.

Joined: May 2010
Posts: 304
Likes: 22
Apprentice level 4
There aren't really any indicators as such for a worn cone, only that the diameter gets very small and you have to use a lot of pressure on the pedal to get drive. Does it look like the sheaves have been moved on the shaft? that usually indicates that the cone is worn and someone has adjusted to suit.

There are bearings on the cone shaft, the upper drive disk shaft, and the rear axle that can be seized or worn. the chain if dry or worn can make similar noises.

What I would do is jack the rear end up so the wheels are off the ground, turn it by hand to try and find the culprit. then maybe drop the chain off, that will isolate the shafts a bit better.

They are easy to do in some ways, no gluing like in a greenfield for example, not a 5 min job either though, the whole yoke i guess with the cone on it needs to be dropped out so you can get the shaft undone to replace it.

Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 3
Trainee
Thanks for the reply Nath.

I haven't got too stuck into it today, more likely to be a weekend job. I did, however, jack it up quickly and put some inox on the chain and take some additional pictures.

The only real noise seems to be coming from the cone/drive discs rather than anywhere else.

Here a some pictures though just to give better context.

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20200506_194630_resized.jpg (184.86 KB, 124 downloads)
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20200506_200948_resized(1).jpg (189.51 KB, 116 downloads)
Last edited by Lockstock; 06/05/20 08:15 PM.
1 member likes this: greenfield mike
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 4
Novice
Hi,

Used to run service department in an Ag dealership when these were new, we were a dealer and sold a heap. These had a lot less bodywork issues than the originals Love these old beasts.

I'd be changing out that cone and cleaning up the discs. We used to jack them up and jam the pedals down and use a big flap disc on the grinder to machine up the discs. Worked a treat. They're a bit like car brakes and become polished smooth and get noisy.

2 members like this: Mystyler, Lockstock
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 61
Likes: 3
Trainee
Cheers for the info. Did you take the discs off to get the flap disc on them?

Next I'll be working out how exactly to conduct the swap of the cone. I saw some info somewhere around but it didn't make too much sense. If I remember and im not too busy cursing I'll try to document my progress

Joined: May 2010
Posts: 304
Likes: 22
Apprentice level 4
Yep that cone is gone! will transform the mower when you put a new one in.

I would say you don't remove the disks, need to keep them as round as possible, short of pulling them out and getting them machined.

The cone on those is not too bad. First off loosen the drive disks and spread them apart. Drop the engine belt off, then the pedal linkage. Then you should be right to remove the hinge pin. the whole thing should twist around and drop out from memory. its never quite that easy though.

Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
Moderator
G'day all,

The Owner Manual and IPL for this machine is a free download, from this page at the Cox Mowers website; https://coxmowers.com.au/manuals/

This should be helpful in seeing how things fit together.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9
Likes: 4
Novice
No leave the discs on. Just jam it in forward and run the disc on them until the shiny stuff is gone. Makes a huge difference.

From memory it's just one bolt through the centre of the cone. Hit it with a rattle gun and it's out!

Last edited by Motowerx; 08/05/20 08:34 PM.
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 14
Novice
Originally Posted by Motowerx
No leave the discs on. Just jam it in forward and run the disc on them until the shiny stuff is gone. Makes a huge difference.

From memory it's just one bolt through the centre of the cone. Hit it with a rattle gun and it's out!

Hi Motowerx, i know this is a old thread but i thought id try ask a question,
Can i use the rattle gun to undo the drive cone bolt and just use the pressure of the drive belt to hold the bottom pulley in place while using the rattle gun ?


Greenfield 30
Cox stockman 32
Yamaha supa swift
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 14
Novice
Anyone think this would work ? i understand its not the conventional way to do it.


Greenfield 30
Cox stockman 32
Yamaha supa swift
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 14
Novice
Rattle gun does not work, was pretty easy job all up, The cox mower is a treat to work on, well built and quality parts.


Greenfield 30
Cox stockman 32
Yamaha supa swift
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7
Novice
hey @greenfield mike How did you get the pully off in the end. About to take this on. Also any idea what size the head is on the clutch bolt?


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