Ok so Dads machine as it sorta has become known, is about to get a bit of a resto, so i thought i would start a new thread
If it goes as badly as the last 2 1/2 hours have though it may not get very far, cos thats how long i have spent trying to get the drive discs and axle out of the parts chassis i bought. i dont know what holds those bearings on , but its bloody good. I had a 2 leg puller on it at one stage and rather than slide off the 1 cm of axle it needs to slide off, it bent and broke the bolts holding the puller together So anywhere here is some 4 before pics
Not sure if you’re trying to remove the axle bearings of the transmission shaft bearings.....or both . Either way they can be a right and proper pest.
If the bearing isn’t secured with a collar like the Mk1, there will be an Allen headed grub screw in the bearing itself. I reckon you’re already onto that. The other main issue is rust and paint on the shaft. The bearings are a slip fit and anything on the axle/shaft will bind it.
I gave up a long time ago trying to remove these in one piece. The bearings and flangettes are fairly cheap so I get surgical and cut them off with an angle grinder. Of course extreme care is need to not nick the axle in the process. I’ve nicked more than one axle doing this but fortunately not in a major way.....but still enough for me to be very annoyed with myself for doing it!
The other problem with removing the axle bearings is that the wheels need to be removed. They’re delicate being made of cast aluminium. I’ve never been particularly lucky on this score. I tend not to remove the wheels from the rear axles if I can avoid it.
Keep the faith fxxxrr. That machine is worth the effort!
T yea its the transmission axle shaft the one with the 2 big alloy pulleys, it looks so simple, undo the bolts and it drops out the slot at the bottom, no joy.
ive got the collars with grubscrews loose, but the bearing on the short side just will not budge on the shaft, the long side is moving but slowly, lots of hammering on the end of the axle, im happy to trim a cm off the axle so am being quite aggressive, i finally got one side to drop out but now its caught on the hand brake lever, wont drop past that GRRRR I deont even know if i need the pulleys or not, as i havent pulled Dads apart yet, it may just need new corks and i dont need the pulleys from the donor.. I just thought they looked easy to remove so i would pull them out LOL serves me right hey LOL
Had new Tyres and Tubes delivered today for Dads so that might be a nice easy place to start LOL oh and the steering wheel, The donor is supplying the steering wheel as well LOL
little bit of progress today, Im still in 2 minds, im liking the idea of polishing the alloy and having polishisd alloy wheels. ive give them a quick clean up to get an idea what it would look like , whats everyones opinions?
Polished Alloy or Painted?
1 of the wheels had Green paint on it, looked original, were the wheels originally green?
Hey PRD, yea i reckon maybe a few more miles left in then tyres hey LOL
The Green was over a creamy white? which appeared to be an undercoat, it was on the inside face of one of them, i didnt take much notice of inside , but will look as i havent put that rim back together yet.
im thinking black one side polished the other. who knows ireckon my patrience might run out before its all polished LOL
Ok so i havent gone back to the shaft as yet, but i did notice something which may or may not be signifigant, the grill slats of Dads machine are painted the same green as the inside of the wheels, and as far as i could tell there was none of that green inside the rim, as in the area inside the tyre, there was evidence of a very bright almost lime green, which does look like some sort of etch primer, (very common for alloy).
then stupid me tried to get the steering wheel off the donor chassis, Ha yea right. im starting to think that these things were never designed to pull apart. LOL. A serious puller and having to clamp the puller to the rim of the wheel and a good soaking ( already sprayed it yesterday as well) with inox, a lot of pressure applied and a fair bit of tapping around the hub of the wheel, and eventually it came off, but what a mission... and the good news is........... it actually fits YAY, Das machine no longer has a HT holden steering wheel
Hopefully you can see the green slats on the grille,, just taping the puller to the wheel wasnt enough, it still kept slipping, so had to clamp it
The green on the slats is interesting in that it’s very much the same colour green that mine was painted all over when I picked it up. Mine had definitely been painted with a brush by a previous owner.
The green on your grille looks the same as on the repair/bumper that’s on the front of the bonnet?
It’s gunna look sooo much better with the new steering wheel! . Glad it came off the donor without breaking.
The Green on the slats i didnt notice till i got it in some more light. the green at the top is a piece of Green hose been split and attached over the front to stop it hitting the ground i assume.
it definately looks better with the steering wheel
Ive also discovered that a lot of what i was planning on taking from the donor chassis is actually welded in or on. so i may have to rethink my plans... unless theres an easy way of getting the steering shafts and gears off?
I feel such a fool sometimes- and sometimes my wife points it out for me
Now I look back at the photos it’s clear as that it’s a bit of rubber or the like. Sigh.....
So, do you reckon the bonnet has been repainted at some time? The weathering looks like it might have been brushed? I know sometimes cars weather like that and they definitely haven’t been brushed so that’s inconclusive.....but is that maybe red paint on the decals? Dunno.
It sure is a remarkable coincidence that that is the same colour green that was on mine.
The steering cross shaft will come out without the need for surgery. The gear is retained with a key and grub screw. Once that shaft is out the steering column will drop through.
Yea i wondered about the apparent brush strokes as well, I may have to delve deeper.... the front edge where the "hose" is is a bit rusty, soo maybe it had something to do with that? anything is possible with My Dad and my Grandpa..
I hoped the steering shaft came out that way, but it appears that the gear is welded to the shaft in the donor chassis, which is a bit of a bummer, there is a fair bit of slop in the gears on Mine so was really hoping this would be an easy fix. I haven't had a close look yet at Dads to see how the gear is attached
The welding thing on the donor is a bush fix. Seen it a couple of times. Probably not a bad idea form a ‘get it going and keep it going’ perspective if the problem is play at the key or missing grub screw etc. but makes purists cringe (I’m cringing! ).
You’ve probably checked this already but play develops between the gears when the nut on the cross shaft works loose. Needs to be snuggled up to remove as much play as possible. If it doesn’t have a nyloc nut then I’d fit one. For some reason the tractor models were fitted a plain nut and keeps working loose. Can’t remember what the red machines have.
If the gears are actually worn which definitely does happen to the later alloy gears and to a lesser extent the steel ones I guess then perhaps rotating the cross shaft 180 degrees so that the other half of the gear is now in use might work. Only half the gear is used and on later tractor models they used a sector gear, not a full gear. It’s an idea I’ve thought about but never fully investigated. On Dad”s machine this would mean rewelding the steering arm back on 180 degrees opposite as well but is do-able I think? Maybe rotating the steering shaft 180 so the other half is in the neutral position may help too?
How’s the weather treating you?
Cheers,
P.S. just thinking....maybe the cross shaft gear has slipped on the shaft?
EDIT. Just looked at mine and I’d forgotten about the circlip that stops the gear sliding so probably disregard the P.S.
I had to go to work today for a few hours, so that killed any shed time, theres so much play in the steering on Dads that is hard to see where it all comes from, theres definately a lot of wea rin the gears, so much so that i actually over clocks and reverses the steering arm already LOL whilst this seems like a good idea to move the worn area, it also unfortunately reverses the steering , so not a practical solution. I may just have to bite the bullet and do some cut and shut work. yes its got a plain nut at the moment LOL The3res also an amazing amount of play and wear in all of the ball joints on the steering linkages, the left wheel for instance, the rose joint, there a full 10 or 12 mm of travel in the linkage before it takes up the slop in the rose joint.
I was looking at how the steering linkage was welded on and it looks to be a smaller diameter section of shaft through the arm then plug welded at the end, bit a proud plug weld, so should be fairly simple to grind off rotate the arm on the shaft and reweld, this would allow a non work section of the gear to be used. would also allow some new bushes to be slid into place whilst arm was off , so might not be to bad a job
might have to measure up the rose joints etc and order some of them sort the steering and the corks and it will actually run and cut grass LOL
. Either way they can be a right and proper pest.
