It was a nice sunny day today, so I started to put the engine back together. Used lots of assembly lube on the journals, conrod/cap, bushes, cam and tappets. Quite thick, sticky and the stuff I used is coloured with red dye. That way you can keep track of which parts are lubed.
Here is a comparison of the old vs new ring gaps, checked using a feeler gauge. All rings were replaced.
- old. new.
compression ring - 0.66mm 0.50mm
oil scraper ring - 0.65mm 0.49mm
oil ring - 0.83mm 0.47mm
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2015/05/full-9109-22026-20150530_144442.jpg)
The new compression ring doesn't have a 45 degree chamfer on one side like the old one did. Very peculiar.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2015/05/full-9109-22027-20150530_145152.jpg)
Using my bare hands I roughhoused the piston and rings into the cylinder. A piston ring compressor would have been handy, but managed to save myself $40. Best way to lift up those tabs that lock the bolts and prevent them from rotating, is to use a ratcheting spanner. Very easy this way. A drive pin punch and hammer is OK for flattening the tabs, that is what I did so I could remove the bolts. According to the manual, the specified torque for the conrod bolts on this engine is 100 inch pounds or 11.3 Nm.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2015/05/full-9109-22034-20150530_162553.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2015/05/full-9109-22030-20150530_162634.jpg)
Markings on the cam gear and crank gear were aligned before putting on a new gasket and torquing the sump bolts to 85 inch pounds or 9.6 Nm.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2015/05/full-9109-22031-20150530_162929.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2015/05/full-9109-22032-20150530_163430.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/uploads/usergals/2015/05/full-9109-22035-20150530_164807.jpg)
Also decided to remove some of the rough casting from the intake port using some needle files.
The valves, keepers, springs and head will go back in/on tomorrow. I'll Probably reset the points gap, put the coil and the flywheel back on and check for spark. Putting a new recoil spring in too, that'll be fun.
Going to keep my eye out for a cheap 2nd hand engine just like mine. Has to have a crank with a good keyway. Then I should be able to swap them over with out any problems. Until then, I am going to proceed with caution and get pulley key stock and cut it to length. The original is 1.5*0.2*0.2 inches. I'll probably find some at a bearing shop and cut to length at about 2". Then there is no room for the key to move.
