[quote=Tyler]Hello all

Though not strictly lawn care related, I am sure many of us have rosebushes acting as a nice backdrop to the lawn.

If you are in WA, you may have heard of the recent significant breakout of this awful little blighter over rose bushes. Initially, it was being reported in the northern suburbs (Noranda, Morley) however it has quickly spread. It is basically all over now.

If you happen to listen to the gardening program on 6pr of a saturday morning, they got to the point last week where they said outright:

"If your roses have chilli thrip, don't ring in, we will do a blanket statement later on"

Indeed, I fixed a mans chainsaw last month who was at his wits end and intended on cutting the bushes off at ground level

Basically, it looks like someone took to the new shoots with a blow torch.

The problem is there is much debate on the best solution and poor information ( much like Covid gargling with bleach (haha)).

Some bunnings (including cannington) had displays touting everything from Yates Success to garlic based fruitfly treatments as a solution.

Others reckon copper will solve it (strongly advise against it).

Naturasoap and white oil type products are much touted on the gardening program

Mavrik (tau-fluvinate) didn't touch chilli thrip on the roses, nor did white oil. I had an inkling Confidor would help, and set about looking for what was best.


The first step suggested is the strengthening of cell walls with sulphate of potash.

Note - bunnings are rip off merchants with this. I went to ag supply store and bought a 20kg bag of 'Solusop' for about $40 last year so this went on straight away along with a decent helping of Neutrog Rooster Booster


Through necessity, I began researching last month on the best solutions. Eventually found several studies done in the USA regarding this pest and termination methods.

In case anyone else reading this has the same problem, this is a relative summary of many articles


Their results were: The best - Cyantraniliprole - fast 70% knockdown with good residual. BUT only place I can find sells it for $500 FOR 750ml!

Spinosad (eg yates natures way fruitfly) is easily available, had good initial knockdown around the 60%, but poor residual beyond 5 days, down to 7% 14 days post

Spintoram (Yates Success) - as per spinosad

Imidacloprid (Confidor) is one of the best BUT care must be taken re bees.


A rotation of treatments is recommended, and plain old Bifenthrin was found to have good effect.


The plan for tomorrow is hit them with some Confidor out of the shed very carefully, then follow up with some bifenthrin next week. Some seasol and powerfeed as well.


If it goes well, I will order a product called 'Apparent Cocky 200sc' (Imidacloprid 200) 1L for about $50 from over east

Will see how it goes

This was how they looked last season - now nary a bloom[/quote]

Great explanation and diagnosis Tyler.

I use Bifenthrin and Imidacloprid for "everything" in the lawn and have found them to be excellent. Bifenthrin is also sprayed around the house as a barrier to anything that crawls (including cockroaches) every 3 months at 25ml/5L..

There is growing research about the harmful effects of Imidacloprid, but there's nothing concrete yet. I use it on my citrus trees (with Bifenthrin) after the bees have done their bit and all flowers are gone, just in case.

Cheers,
TC.