OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Victa Ignition Module

Hi LRT, is the Victa waveform from one of the coils we had here that we proved worked fine. I wouldn't go to too much trouble trying to straighten the crank, I have a pile of full crank motors out the back, just not sure if you can use the early cup type starter crank in the side pull motors. Never looked into that. They have the points ignition and not sure if you could use the side pull flywheel on the early crank. Never know till you have a go.

Hi Jeff,

Yes the first waveform is taken from the Victa that wouldn't go.

Unfortunately I haven't got a waveform of Norm's rebuilt engine as the computer was playing up and had already arranged the delivery of the mower.

However, I do have a running Powertorque that I'll capture a waveform and post for you.

Hi Norm,

Yes the waveform is from the engine's original coil that I brought down to you with a couple of new old stock replacements. In fact, it is still on that mower & the last I heard from them was that it is running superbly, apart from the fuel flooding once due to the plastic needle sticking open.

I do have a non-running cup starter engine that I will compare with the later side pull start engine.

Unfortunately, old Victa's are really hard to find down here as the scrap metal people won't let you in to their yard due to occupational health & safety regulations.

Here is the oscilloscope waveform of a Victa Utility 460 "Powertorque" engine:

Immediately you can see the induced voltage (spark voltage) is a lot higher than 2kV !

Of course there is always a small variation in the induced voltage due to variations in the fuel-air ratio, fuel quality, engine speed, engine load, ambient temperature, etc.

Unfortunately, I can't measure the primary voltage and current on this coil as it is the later type with the built in module.

It's typically in the 300-350V peak region, and is somewhat rpm-dependent, for these magneto ignitions.

Hi,

I seemed to have hijacked this thread somewhat and perhaps the moderators need to look at it. It is now much more about full crank no spark issues then it is about electronic ignition modules.

I'll post again with the latest on my full crank issues.

All the best
Jeff

Hi,

Well it runs now but I'm not 100% sure why.

On Saturday.I:

1. Removed the coil and sand papered the armature prong ends and the magnets on the flywheel. I cannot see why this would make any difference but I did.
2. I reinstalled the coil to 0.25mm clearance using a brass feeler gauge.
3. No opportunity to move the coil any closer to the flywheel as it already is almost touching the upper rim of the flywheel.
4. Tried to start but no go. A bit of a spark but a poor cousin to the Powertorque.
5. Swapped carbies from the Powertorque (which starts easily) to the fullcrank.
6. Tried to start but still no go.Swapped carby back again. Powertorque still starting easily but not the fullcrank.
7. Removed the plug lead and cut half an inch off both ends and reinstalled. Its a bit short now. This is the second time I did this but I cut more off this time.
8. Tried to start and almost immediately got it to fire and then it
burst into life.
9. Stopped it then almost immediately tried to restart. No go but plug seems to be fouling easily.
10. Seemed to be some junk in the cylinder so I removed the head. Not a lot of carbon but what was there was very black, soft and oily. I decoked and cleaned it up and put the head back on.
11. Tried to start and it went almost straight away. And restarted as well. Then I mowed the lawn with it.

So there you, countless hours but you cannot beat mowing with a full crank that runs nicely. The sound, the smell of the oil sure beats the four stroke I have. There is a bit of Rotomo somewhere inside these fullbacks.

I suspect both issues were important, a dirty combustion chamber and the plug lead. Two things for sure, not the coil or the module. I did put the original module back on & it made no difference.

Speedy,
Can you send me a Personal Message re swap? I have a new module that I do not need and I could do with a coil to have in stock in case my soldering job fails.

Anyone have a good source of spark plug wire? The old one is sort of hard and is too short anyway.Whats the best end for the wire that fits inside the plug boot? I have been screwing a small self-tapper into the end of the wire but this may not be the best.

Thanks very much to all who contributed.
All the best
Jeff

Hi Jeff,

I'm pleased for you that it's going. It's satisfying when it works after all the time spent trying to get it to go.

I've also found the full crank to be a better engine than the Powertorque. They seem to have effortless torque and run beautifully smooth when working under load.

You should be able to get a new lead from your nearest GA Spares distributor. They also sell 10 & 30 Metre rolls.

Victa 23� x 5mm High Tension Lead

The self tapping screw in the end of the lead is correct. I cut off the tag and use the screw, but either should work.

I think the powertorque is perfectly fine for lawn mower applications as it was engineered for.
I think it's a case of the the full crank being over engineered for the task and the powertorque built cheaper and just right for the application.

A brass crimp terminal is the OEM solution. But note that using the best way to fit it, the wire core end is turned back along the lead, and the terminal crimped around the lot. That's to provide strain relief to the core wires.

The ODK Shop can help with that, too;
Full crank: https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/engines...l-parts/victa-23-x-5mm-high-tension-lead

PowerTorque: https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/engines...rts/victa-power-torque-high-tension-lead

Thanks Gadge,

Those leads look like they are for a old model (maybe a Rotomo) with the screw-on type attachment to the plug. I guess I could use that but the uninsulated plug on an east-west motor might cause issues like shorting out to the undergrowth or even the odd boot to an unsuspecting toe. I need the one that fits the red plug cover, its quite a neat fit over the lead. I guess I could use the same just cut off the terminal or at least just the bit with the hole in it.

I need a few other ODK items so that will probably be the way to go.

All the best
Jeff

The brass tag will fit in the red boot with a little persuasion. Then remove the top on the spark plug. See the pictures below:

I just get these and throw the spring bit away
.ebay.com.au/itm/5-Pack-Spark-Plug-Cover-Cap-Boot-5mm-Can-be-fitted-to-Mowers-Brushcutters-/151836790825?hash=item235a2d9029:g:w8UAAOSw3ydVmME9

Thanks LRT,

Looks like ODK is the way to go. Beautiful photos by the way.

All the best
Jeff

Jeff, I PMed you.
speedy

Hi Speedy,

I have PM'd you

Jeff