OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers New SB 45 17" owner needs advice.

Hey Guys,
Just got our first house. Became a tad obsessed with my lawns. I want them to be as close as I can get them to a golf green. Of course you can't do it without a cylinder mower. Was shopping around the usual places on the internet for something that runs well and in my price range. Come across this SB 45 17' for $150. I"ve seen some machines in way worse conditions sell for much more.
I would like to know things I should do to get this bad boy back running smoothly.
I'm pretty sure that the model I have has had some upgrades. The engine isn't original or the handles.
I know I need some rubber parts for the catcher to rest on.(don't know what they are called)
I don't know if the reel is supposed to stop spinning when you engage the clutch.. probably needs adjusting?
Looks like the blades have been filed,( is that a no, no?) what does it cost to get them sharpened properly? Can anyone suggest a good place on the Gold Coast or Bris.
The blades don't appear to have any bad dents or bends but are definitely not sharp. They don't cut paper all the way across.
I don't know if I haven't adjusted the blades right or its just my lawn not being perfectly flat..but i've got some uneven patches. I'll add a pic to show you what i'm working with. How should I fix that?
The rails have some paint missing, hopefully not from it starting to crack or being stressed from vibrations.
Any any other information you can give me would be a huge help. Open to all suggestions.
Cheers Trevmate

Hi Trev, nice find mate. Your machine has obviously been repaired/modified. But you have a good quality cylinder reel, with plenty of material left for a multitude of sharpenings. I would say that once you get it sharpened professionally, it is almost good to go.

But first you should sort out the clutch. It looks as if the clutch body has been replaced as it is bare metal, with no signs of the original green hammertone paint. Unfortunately, you have the awful cottar pin variant of the clutch body, that is prone to wear and failure without proper adjustment and maintenance.

The black plastic thrust pad adjacent on the inner cone looks like it is in good condition. I am not completely sure, but I think that when the lever is pulled up it should disengage the clutch by releasing the sping loaded inner cone from the mating outer cone. If it is not engaging/spinning the reel when the lever is pulled down, then either the spring is worn, the keyway is damaged, the woodruff key is worn or the cork lining on the inside of the outer cone has deteriorated and now there is not enough friction to turn the engine drive shaft. Another possibility is that the lever is not moving far enough. To fix that, just adjust the bolt you see in the picture - second last one from the bottom.

The rubber bumpers/buffers that support the catcher are replaceable items you can find online/ebay etc.

I don't live east side, someone else might like to help with stores that offer reel grinding services over there. Good luck with your repairs!

Check out this post in relation to clutch adjustment.
It looks similar to the issue your having just in reverse.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=73923#Post73923

Sry Trev, I think I got the action of the lever the wrong way round. Lifting the lever up engages the reel and pulling it down disengages....

Hi all,

Just as a consideration I wish to inform you all that I have been laid up crook in bed all week with no signs of getting better. As soon as I am feeling up to it I shall give you a full run down on your machine.

Cheers,
BB

Get well soon. I was wondering why you hadn't dropped in on this one. All the best for a speedy recovery.

ditto from Jack.

I need to read more posts. I missed your responses and was wondering why.
A speedy recovery from me too.

---------------------
Jack

Hi all,

Well I'm back in a small capacity at the moment. (in other words, Maverick is re-engaging)

Thanks to both Bushy and Jack for your kind words of encouragement, I appreciate it.



Well Hi Trevmate !

It most certainly looks as though you have a fairly sound machine and have paid a rather low fat price, so there's a good start.

Looking at your reel it has plenty of life in it for years to come and not that long ago a new bed knife would've been fitted. I will say though that the bed knife looks to have some damage on the chain case side tip of the blade with it being bent upwards.

Like I've always said with purchases like this a general spruce up is in order and as such I would have the reel reground and also the bed knife which should be done at the same time.
If you are to remove the two major components and deliver them to an engineer it will work out much cheaper. Under no circumstance should you attempt to remove the bed knife from the cast iron soleplate. Your engineer is trained to do this without any fatal mishaps happening. Also new bearings (RLS5's) must be fitted. Don't rely on used bearing for the grinding process. You can pick this size bearing up for around $6 to $7. Don't get sucked in by some of the eBay sellers asking up to around $30.00.

Yes your machine has had both a new power plant and clutch half fitted sometime ago and yes that clutch half could be a source of problems as it's of the earlier ill fated cotter pin design opposed to the better right angled grub screw fastening method that is used on the current castings.

The first thing I would do is to see if the current clutch half is still running true, to do this simply disengage the clutch (push clutch lever downwards towards the chassis rail)then ensure spark plug lead is pulled off the plug. Once this is done operate the pull starter rather slowly and at the same time watch how it rotates the clutch body. If it runs dead true then things are OK, but if you get a bit of left to right and back to left movement then that body would be considered scrap and not worth pursuing with as all it's going to do is induce unwanted vibration into the chassis which will set up chassis failure down the road and much sooner than you realise.

See how you go with the clutch test and get back to me and we'll move on from there.

Cheers,
BB

PS. Your handlebars could've been fitted from new as pram bars were optional, mainly for doing larger lawns with a rather long straight cutting pattern involved.

Hey thanks for the reply's.

I've watched the vids on taking the reel and bed knife out so that shouldn't be a drama to get them out and off to the sharpeners.
I don't get long to tinker with the mower before the Mrs works out that I've slipped into the garage ahah. Then mentioning the parts I need haha.. she'll lucky I didn't buy a brand new one.. So I'll get the parts and a sharpen when it's safe to do so haha.
I did the test that was suggested and when I pulled the lead the clutch body did have a bit of a wobble in it and isn't spinning true.
Probably have to look at replacing that?
cheers Trev

Hi Trev,

If that clutch is not spinning totally true it's "DEFFINITELY" time for a new clutch half.

Cheers,
BB.

just got back here myself again ...... sorry to hear you were crook there BB and greaty your on the mend and sort of back into it ..

dave

Thanks Dave,

Appreciate your kind words.

Cheers,
BB