OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines Briggs horizontal 6.5HP OHV

Howdy people, having issues with this motor on a Masport mulcher.

The engine code is 071010 88 122432 0113 01 big number, I'm guessing it's a 2007.

Sticker says it's dual ball bearing, cast iron sleeve. It doesn't list as either an Intek or Vanguard. I am wondering if it's some type of copy. It has a few things I haven't seen on Briggs motors. Not that I am any type of expert but it has a small spring locater for choke position of they type I have seen on Tecumseh and the bolted to the side of the carb is a small plastic fuel bowl/strainer type set up.

It is extremely low hour, really hasn't been run at all which prompted me to pull the carb down but it will not run without choke, virtually full choke.

The metal fuel bowl touches the blower shroud so I am wondering if the whole intake set up has been hit and bent thus causing my issue?

I will get some pictures to see if a sharp eye here can see something that is damaged in the linkage system that is causing my poor running issue.

According to the Briggs site this engine is an American made unit??

The numbers you have given don't translate as a Model, Type and Code, Aldo. I think you may have missed the ones we need. Is it an OHV engine? The numbers are in a different place on both Intek and Vanguard, compared with the traditional locations on the side valve engines.

Hi Grumpy. Those numbers are stamped into the OHV cover.

071010 88 sits on the side above 122432 0113 01

There are no country origin markings. Every component has the Briggs logo but I cant find anything else.

Tomorrow I will photograph the engine.

For now I have a picture of the engine numbers

I guess I just needed to see the layout of the numbers, Aldo, I'd expected them to be in the usual Model-Type-Code sequence. Model is 122432. Type is 0113-01. Code is 07101088. Here is the Operator's Manual:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/iorpAFJU0HCjhJvcv4.pdf

Here is the Illustrated Parts List:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/18kpALXJnfBhU7y.pdf

Date of manufacture is 10 October 2007.

As far as I know so far, Briggs makes all the Briggs branded small OHV engines, in its own plants in North America. It also makes all the Intek engines there, and all the single cylinder Vanguards. The multi-cylinder Vanguards are made in Japan. Your engine is identified as having been made in Plant 88, which did not exist when my list was created a few years ago.

I haven't previously seen a horizontal crankshaft small OHV Briggs engine, only vertical crankshaft ones. I believe your engine is sold under the Intek label. Don't be too alarmed by that: while the large Intek engines have their shortcomings, the small ones do not suffer from those faults.

If your engine will run properly with choke, but not otherwise, the mixture is lean. That will probably be either an intake air leak on the engine side of the carburetor, or a carburetor fault. If you have any reason to think it has been clouted hard enough to disturb the geometry between the carburetor and engine, I'd start with the intake connections rather than the carburetor. By the way, it is a Walbro LMS carburetor. The engine and carburetor are covered in detail in the Intek Single Cylinder manual, P/N 276781, which is in the manuals section. I'll be happy to help you with the diagnostics and repair of course, as usual.

Thanks Grumpy, here are a few pictures of what I call an odd engine. I would have thought it to be labelled either Intek or Vanguard.












The cast aluminium bowl is hard up against the blower housing. it cannot be moved when the bowl retaining bolt is backed off


It is on a Masport chipper mulcher

Is the red steel blower housing flexible, or rigid? If firm hand-pressure will deflect it so it doesn't touch the float bowl, I doubt that it matters. On the other hand if it is rigid, it is pushing the carburetor out of position. That would potentially cause insufficient clamping pressure on the insulator between the carburetor and cylinder head. A leak there will cause lean mixture, which is what you seem to have.

Has the previous tenant removed the carburetor, and either accidentally or deliberately omitted the insulator, or one or both of its gaskets? Or removed the cooling cowl and reinstalled it incorrectly? That could cause approximately what you've got.

Hi Grumpy, I finally managed to get a look at this. Only this afternoon I removed the carb and then the blower housing. It is rigid btw and there is a shaped recess to accommodate the carb bowl. There is no give at all. There is a small rub mark on the housing where the paint has gone back to bare metal.

I removed the blower housing and judging by the bolt heads and marking etc, it hasn't been off before. The gaskets either side of the insulator look fine. I positioned the housing without doing the bolts firmly. I reinstalled the carb and then tensioned the bolts to the blower housing. There is just under 2mm clearance where before there was none. Everything seems to sit as it should.

Ran and tested and its still having the same issue. Only runs on almost full choke. It really hasn't changed at all.

Back to inspecting the carb again.

Hi aldot, Grumpy ,
I would also check the air filter. Possibly run the motor without the air filter in but the cover on if after you clean the carby and still does the same.

Hi Roebuck, only just come inside after pulling the carb down again. I didn't get a chance to try that but I did clean the foam element and reoiled it when I first bought the machine.

What I did find this time was the emulsion tube was quite dirty. This is a machine that has sat for a while with virtually no use. Its not a screw in type so I had to remove the choke butterfly to gently tap it out. It's internal diameter was very dirty and required a bit of soaking to get it clean.

The rest of the carby is quite clean. Im guessing the previous owner was into the carb as there are tell tale signs on the screw heads.

How it runs - it has a 5 position choke, previously it would start on full choke and run in the second position and stall on the third position.
Now it starts easily on full choke and runs in the third position, hunts quite bad in the forth position and stalls in the fifth position.

When you remove the float bowl screw you look up into the bottom of the emulsion tube. Next to the emulsion tube is another hole which seems to go about three quarters of the distance parallel to the emulsion tube and then stops. Where does this vent to? Perhaps this too is clogged?

I will try and get a carb number

I'd say your right aldot, It sounds as though it will need more cleaning as it runs better after you've cleaned it. Does the carby have a fibrous seat? If so go gentle with the carby cleaner as the seat can be easily damaged and compressed air can dislodge the seat. Some photos of the carby would help if you can. I think it may have a pilot screw which would also need to be taken out while cleaning.

It does sound like there are obstructions in either the drilled holes in the carburetor body, or the jets. The most likely source of your problem is dirt in the passages in the fuel bowl nut, which are notoriously troublesome with that carburetor. If you didn't use a good blast of carb cleaner through there, and probe the passage after blowing out the cleaner with compressed air, it may still be obstructed. I suggest that you run carefully through this cleaning procedure:

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_walbro_lms_carb.asp

Someone has already changed the carburetor on this unit. Originally it had a 698558 carburetor and it now has a 796447. This is basis on the datecode which is 2 years before the 2009 introduction of the 796447 carburetor.

This carburetor has a separate main jet and it no longer uses the fuel nut as the main jet. This might be situation that requires resizing the main jet but exhaust all other possibilities first.

For carburetors here I use an ultrasonic cleaner which seems to penetrate better than just the soaks and doesn't damage rubber parts since it use only soap and water.

Hi there, when I google the first carb number 698558, the images which come up appear to be exactly what my machine is running??

I'll get some pictures.

The carb is stamped Nikki 697298 78N

I couldn't salvage one of the gaskets, specifically between the carb and the insulator so last night I made one from a 0.4mm oil paper gasket roll. Upon disassembly today, I think that gasket paper may have been leaking. 3/4 of the gasket surface is quite obviously marked in the contact area. The remaining area had no marking at all. I might see what I can make from a cereal box etc that is thicker. My local orders once a week arriving on Monday.

I'm hoping it's the gasket seeing the carb is now clean.

With flange-mounted carburetors that have lean-mixture problems, I've had leaking flange gasket problems nearly as often as gum-in-the-jet problems. This is especially so on Honda engines, which for a long time had insulator gaskets that stuck to both the insulator and the flanges, and split when the carburetor was removed. Any time you are working on a flange-mounted carburetor, check carefully whether it has been worked on previously. If the flange joint has been dismantled, there is a very good chance the gaskets will leak.

In this case Aldo, you know the carburetor has been worked on (replaced in fact) and you know there was some problem with reassembly, because the carburetor was jammed hard against the cooling air cowl. I think you need to go over the joints on both sides of the insulator carefully, and satisfy yourself that you have flat surfaces and new or as-new gaskets.

Okay I resoaked the carb components, made two gaskets for either side of the insulator, used fresh fuel and same problem.

The engine runs nicely in the 4th choke position but I really think its the flywheel effect of the mulching mechanism which keep it spinning over nicely.

Starts first pull and idles in 3rd spot nicely. When you accelerate in the 3rd position it does belch a little black smoke and runs the revs up nicely. once in the middle of the rev range I slip it to the 4th position and it seems to run fine. 5th position makes hunt.

This photo shows what looks like a weird float angle but there is nothing in there that looks out of place


This picture shows the second hole which runs parallel to the emulsion tube but only goes 3/4 of the distance and doesn't have any openings that I could see or probe



This picture shows the 5 position choke set up.


Just showing the carb numbers

Double check your float needle setup. the spring should be fitted into float hinge area and not sitting on top of it as it needs to pull the needle off the seat area as the float drops. This might be the cause of the leaning of the engine as fuel flow would be too low in the carburetor for the main jet to work properly.

As the second hole it might be something that are using a different setup and just not finish here as it is not needed.

Are you sure you have the right float needle, Aldo? That float looks way too low, which will cause lean mixture. I think you should look at the things that set the float height: needle length, correct assembly of needle and clip to float arm, and seat position - is it pushed in all the way?



I may be wrong, but I can't remember ever seeing a simple toroidal carburetor float that was intended to be a long, long way from level. Given that the carburetor has been messed with previously, could the previous tenant have pushed in a Viton seat on top of a metal seat, thinking it should have both, when it shouldn't? If the needle is Viton-tipped, it is unlikely the seat should be Viton as well.