OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers SB Model 45 School Project

Hi Tom,

You are leaving your run a bit late mate and have not been updating us with your progress, or posting pics of what you have been doing for the last month.
To complete your project on time you need to not get side tracked and have a plan of attack.
To help us to help you, we need to know:

(1) Do you have a budget for your project...that is the money for parts if required and for sharpening the reel and bottom blade, paint etc.?
(2) Have you taken Bonnar Bloke up on his offer to help you?
(3) You will need a basic A/F (SAE) set of spanners and/or socket set...Do you have access to these?
(4) What have you completed thus far?

Looking forward to your reply Tom,

Hi Deejay,

There is no Budget that we can't exceed and I am allowed and have the money to purchase specific items. I do have a socket set which has come in handy when I have taken the engine off. Which brings me to my next question. How to I get the clutch assembly off the shaft.? I have attached and image.

Cheers,
Tom.

Hi Tom,
That's good you have a budget for your resto.
Now to get the clutch from the engine PTO shaft....have a look at the video contained HEREand follow the instructions.
Easy-Peasy!

Hi again Deejay,

I watched the vid on how to take the engine an clutch off but, when I went to knock the captive cotter pin (if that's what it's called) down the nut was going down on the thread therefore carving away at the pin itself. I would like an explanation and answer if possible, thanks.

Cheers,
Tom

Hi Tom,

The pin is called the 'captive cotter pin', and engages the PTO shaft as the nut is tightened, to lock the cutter clutch in position. To release it, you undo the nut until it is level with the top of the thread and then gently tap it down until it releases the clutch assembly.

It sounds like yours has seized, perhaps by corrosion, and by the sound of it the pin is now unserviceable....

The fix is to now to soak the pin area with Penetrene; apply liberally and let it soak for some time so that it get right in, and then tap the pin again and get it to release.
Good luck mate, a good soak and it should move down.

Thanks Deejay,

Where would i be able to buy some Penetrene? I am guessing it will grease the inside making it slippery therefore making it easy to knock out? Is it possible to buy new captive cotter pins? If so where?

Hi Tommy,

Penetrene is a brand of penetrating oil, should be available at any good hardware store....the captive cotter just gets knocked down releasing the shaft. You can remove it when the clutch is disassembled.

You can buy the cotter (Clamping Pin) HERE

Cheers, I will get on to that asap.

Hi everyone,

I have started to remove the rust from various parts. I will be heading to Bunnings and a paint supplier on the weekend the pick up some supplies. I was wondering if anyone has a manual for my model 45 SB?

Cheers,
Tom.

Hi Tom,
You will find the Scott Bonnar parts list in the left hand navigational panel under "Site Links".
The SB Model 45 Owners Manual is located in the Lawnmower Parts List & Repair Manuals, which is contained in the Repairs and Maintenance forum > Questions on Lawn Mower Frames and is a subscription area. To subscribe, follow the instructions HERE
Great to see that you are making progress...please don't forget to take plenty of pics and you go along, as we all love to see them!

Sorry that I haven't been on lately, I haven't been doing much, but just got the top plate off and have attached a couple of pics. The piano looks like it has had a but of wear and may need a clean. Would you be able to give me some advice on how to clean and what to do with the piston. I would also like a bit of guidance of what I should be doing next.

I have got in contact with a couple of powder coaters and am going to visit them both for quotes. Your help is much appreciated.

Cheers,
Tom.

Top: Top view of piston in engine
Bottom: Cover of piston (under view)

Hi Tom, I don't know a lot about Briggs engines, but I don't think there is a piano attached anywhere! But they do have a nice note when running at full song!

Seriously though, our resident guru grumpy may have some suggestions for you regarding your engine, just listen carefully and follow his instructions...you will end up with a good result.

The first step is to clean the exterior of the engine, including the cooling fins. To do that you need to put the cylinder head back on (cleaning the mating surfaces first), and put its retaining bolts back in and tighten them, then reinstall any other engine parts you have removed so that cleaning fluid cannot get inside the engine. Next you remove the cooling air cowl (the pressed steel part which has the pull-start mounted on it) by taking out the 4 small bolts that retain it. Put the engine in a large drum or something similar that will catch all the dirt and oil when you clean the engine. First, while the engine is dry, using a clean, dry brush, remove the leaves and grass from all if the cooling fins, on both the outside of the cylinder and on the cylinder head. Then you can use spray degreaser, or a couple of litres of kerosene, to clean the whole outside of the engine. Either way you will need a paintbrush to actually remove the dirt. Dry the engine with rags and inspect it to ensure it is all clean. Post pictures of the clean engine - we will need those to talk about the further steps.

When you have done that, the next step is to see whether the engine is going to need an overhaul. We can talk about that when you have completed the cleaning job.

Hi Grumpy,
Was that the cover you wanted me to take off? If so, do I just go ahead with a paintbrush and start getting rid of all the grass and leaves?

Cheers,
Tom.

Yes, the part you've removed is the cooling air cowl. If you look closely at the cowl you'll find a very long string of numbers, broken into three groups, called the Model, Type and Code. If you post the numbers, we can tell you quite a lot about the engine.

Now you need to brush out all the leaves and dry dirt from around the fins and the ignition unit, before cleaning the outside of the engine in detail with solvent. Once the engine is clean, the next step will be a compression test, but we can talk about that when you've done the cleaning.

Is this what you wanted Grumpy?

I have cleared all the dry dirt, grass clippings and leaves from the outside of the engine, would I now need to head into a hardware store and pick up some spray degreaser? If so what brand would you recommend? Once I have got that would I then have to spray it all over and wipe off with a rag?

Your help is much appreciated,
Tom.

I see that Rolla16V interpreted those numbers for you already, so you have the information. Spray degreaser can be used for cleaning your engine, but you will still need to use a paintbrush to shift the dried out oily sludge. You can use kerosene instead of degreaser - it is nearly as effective, and a lot cheaper. Once all the dirt is loosened up most people use something like a hose or a pressure washer to blast the oily residue off. Be careful not to spray the air cleaner though, or water might get into the engine.

The stuff that comes off the engine will make a filthy mess on the ground, so put a suitable drum or tray around the engine, and empty the mess into a container afterwards. Dispose of the container (usually an old oil container) properly.

When you have the engine clean, you will need to put the cooling cowl back on to do a rudimentary compression test. All you do is pull the starter a few times (with the "stop" control resting against the spark plug, so the engine can't start) to get the feel of the pressure generated in the engine as the piston comes up on the compression stroke. When you are used to how it feels, you remove the spark plug and put just one spoonful of engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, then put the spark plug back in. Immediately pull the starter a few more times and feel whether the compression pressure has increased (that is, it has become harder to pull the starter when the piston comes up on the compression stroke). If there is more compression with the oil in there, the engine will need an overhaul, including new piston rings.

Here is the Illustrated Parts List for your engine. It will be useful for looking up the names of parts, and the part numbers for any parts that need to be replaced. Sometimes you can also use it to see how parts go together.

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/Z6jmsHVJ1DajI.pdf

Thanks Grumpy, I will head down to a Hardware store soon to pick up some kerosene. I am still having trouble getting the clutch assembly from the PTO shaft. I am using a penetrating lubricate sort of spray. Any other tips than patience?

Also, with the engine oil, would I just use standard car oil?

Cheers,
Tom.

A good penetrating lubricant, some soak-time, make sure the captive cotter is loose and can be moved about with your fingers, then a series of light taps with a hammer on the angled part of the clutch, rotating the engine about a quarter turn between taps. If it doesn't move at all after you've done that continuously for about five minutes, it will be time to take stronger measures. That means borrow a 6 inch gear puller, or get a local motor mechanic who already has one, to pull it off for you.

The right engine oil for that engine is ordinary automotive engine oil, but grade SAE30 (not multigrade). However for the compression test, you can use multigrade if you happen to have some.