OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers SB Model 45 School Project

I was also wondering what fuel this takes? There is fuel in it but is probably old and I don't want to put fuel in with two stroke oil if it does not need it. I was also wondering if this is two stroke or four stroke. I noticed when the handle thing is in the engaged position the cone should be level with the clutch itself. I had to play around with it a bit but got it to come out when the handle is in the engaged position. I haven't opened the clutch yet but I suspect the cork is worn or none left because when engaged it is not gripping therefore not spinning the reel. Hope you guys can help me.

Tom.

Your engine is 4 stroke and takes regular unleaded. There is oil in the sump (well there should be) for lubrication. It's a good idea at this point to check it. There is a round filler plug near where the engine bolts to the deck. The oil should be filled to the top of the thread. I can add some more photos if need be.

The clutch cork should be replaced as part of your restoration and is not expensive. When you get to the dissassembly stage, take some pictures and post them up

I'll just address the engine issues Tom, and leave the mower frame issues to Deejay.

Your engine is a side valve 4 stroke, of 100 cubic centimetres displacement. It requires ordinary unleaded petrol of 91 octane, with no additives, and no oil in it. Do not use 2 stroke mix. Do not use petrol containing ethanol - it slowly damages some of the fuel system parts.

Remember, because it does not have oil in the fuel, the sump must be kept full of engine oil. Check the oil before trying to start the engine.

Real petrol, without ethanol or ether in it, can last a long time - I've used petrol that had been in a jerrycan for more than 5 years, and found no difference between it and new petrol. However petrol containing ethanol gradually absorbs moisture, goes yellow, and then does not operate the engine's carburetor properly. Because we do not know what kind of petrol is in your engine's fuel tank, it should be replaced - but draining the tank properly requires taking some of the engine to pieces, which should not be done unless it is necessary. You could siphon out as much of the old fuel from the tank as possible then fill the tank with new petrol, but it is probably more convenient to just check the colour of the fuel you have. If it has gone yellow, or if it no longer smells like proper petrol, it will have to be drained. Remember, petrol is a hazardous material. It is toxic, irritant, and explosive. Please do not disturb the fuel until we talk about how to handle it safely. Just remove the tank cap, look at the fuel, smell it, put the cap back on, and report back.

Hi Tom,

Don't go adjusting anything just yet, let grumpy help you with the engine first; we will get to the other stuff once we get the engine up and running.

Hi Tom,

I'll also join in here with a big welcome to this wonderful forum and rest assured that any info you require will be easily and quickly forthcoming from us guys.
Being a fellow Adelaidean I did see the machine up for sale originally and thought of purchasing it myself but I have one exactly the same and felt it best that someone else gets a chance at it.
As far as the engine not running there are a number of elements that need to be checked and they are 3 items Fuel, Spark and air. I pretty much suspect that the machine hasn't been used for a number of years and more than likely has a set of stuck closed points and as such you won't be getting any energy to the spark plug. I would first remove the air cleaner box and tip a small amount of fuel directly down the carby (not too much though)and then give it a couple of really sharp pull starts and see if there's any life to be found. If nothing then the next point would be to look at the ignition system which as I eluded to earlier that it will probably be a closed set of points. I have a simple method of checking if you are getting spark and that is probably not the best way and definitely not one for the occupational health and safety people to hear but just put your finger on top of the s[park plug and get a second operator to slowly pull the starter rope through the cycle and if there is spark you'll know about it instantly as soon as the rope is pulled (SLOWLY)as you feel a bit of a electric shock on the finger. Like I said it's probably not the best option if you've got a heart condition. The other way is to take the spark plug lead off the spark plug and use a rag around the lead to hold the lead with you hand. Now hold the lead so that the metal end is about 3 mm away from any metal part of the top of the engine and using a second operator get them to pull the started rope with a bit more motion and see if you can spot any spark jumping from the metal end to the engine, if no spark at this point you will have to investigate further into the ignition system.

If you need a hand I'm more than happy to help you out personally, that's providing you're not at Christies Beach or somewhere down that way.

Let me know if there's something I can do for you.

Cheers,
BB

All good I got it running!!! There is a problem with the pull start because sometimes it won't engage an spin the shaft. The stop and run switch does not make a difference when turning on or off, the only way to stop the engine is to use te choke which sometimes takes a while. It was running pretty fine as I said earlier the cork will definitely need replacing as sometimes the come does not grip therefore not spinning the reel. I am in the Walkerville area, where abouts are you?

Cheers,
Tom.

It's great to have a fellow adelaidean here to help me!!

This is one of the screws on the chain case. Any ideas of how to unscrew it since it only bends when I try to unscrew it.

Sorry for the late reply Grumpy but yes the fuel did smell like normal petrol so I think it was all good!
Cheers,
Tom.

That engine does not have a kill switch incorporated in the speed control, Tom, you stop it with the piece of metal on the top of the engine, which contacts the top of the spark plug when you push it in that direction. This shorts out the ignition, without doing any harm.

This thread has now wandered off track from my point of view, and I will not be taking any further part in it. I hope your project works out well.

Impact driver will get her moving....if you dont have one, get someone to smack the back of a conventional flat head screw driver whilst load applied. Good luck !!

Thanks for your contribution Grumpy much appreciated.

Hello Tom, did you have any luck finding those numbers?

Yes I did here they are. Sorry it took a while. The numbers from top to bottom are: 61202 0144 01 6806211.

Great work Tom

That confirms that it it is a 2.25hp engine with a pulsa-jet diaphragm type carb. The engine was made on the 21st of June 1968 and the mower was probably made 6 months or so later.

Thanks Rolla I thanks for giving me the approximate age of my Scotty! Once again sorry I got side tracked and took a while to upload this.

No problems Tom

I have a 2.25hp decal set for your Briggs engine as well the Scott Bonnar decals for the mower itself. I'm happy to give these to you if it will help you save some money. I also have a reproduction brochure for the mower that may come in handy for your school work. If you'd like them, just send me a PM with some postage details and they're yours.

Cheers, Michael

Thanks Michael, much appreciated.

Hi Michael,

While you're at it, you don't happen to have a second set just laying around for my exact same machine LOL !

That's the same unit that started it all off for me and to this day I still have the machine as a daily user, I've just never had the heart to do a full resto on it as its a genuine survivor example.

I used to have all the original books, brochures and purchase documents from the original owner but sadly lost them in the divorce as one does and I'm pretty sure they ended up in the trash years ago. It still peeves me off so much that I had so much genuine documentation on plenty of other SB's that has all gone to SB heaven, but I guess that's the exact desired result from the divorce process.

I will need to be getting a start soon and will only have about 15 weeks. Could anyone give me a rough timeline/guideline what I will need to do and also a list of tools if possible.

Cheers,
Tom.