OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Victa Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers Victa Rotomo - Model 2

Good to hear.

From what I see in the victa manual, it's a fairley big job to remove the Conrod from the crank.
Looks like I need a press, and a few different victa tools.

The pully also has ESS 4 wirtten on it.

Scott you are a lucky bugger yes that is (As Blue said) a model 1 cylinder and head.Bugger even I don't have a model 1 head yet,(My one must have been changed).Now I'm not sure how bad the rust is to,as to whether you will need to re-bore or not.Your best chance will be the acid I was telling you about. I'll have a look and see if I can find out what that acid was.It's basically is a de-oxidiser that basically just eats the rust.I think that is the best way that won't do any-more damage.You'll hear story's about soaking in oil and maybe even oil and diesel mixed together.Don't bother that's just one of those myths that just doesn't work.Tried it was just a waste of time.Might work on some things but not a stuck piston.Just try the best way without any-more damage than what has already been done.As that one is worth trying to save.Take the long road not the quick easy way as that may not work.Best of luck.Keep us posted.

Yes the pully Will be ESS. This is the first of the ESS Casting companies products used by Victa",They supplied right through into the sheerline,and possibly beyond with pullies,carbies and a few other parts.
Anyways...You DO NOT wannt to pull the conrod from the crank. The aim is to get the piston out of the barrel,no more no less,using any means possible.
Destroy the piston,drill it out,press it out,bore it or die grind it,Acid...Heat the barrel to loosen and shock the rust(just not to hot) And let it cool naturally,as its Cast Iron and may crack or distort. Whatever means you can. it will come out and its the least expensive part to sacrifice and easily replaced...

Thanks mate.
I'm really keen to restore this mower, have been into the old victas for a while now, this is by far the nicest I have scored. I'm only 17 and keen to learn as much as I can.
Have found this a great forum.

Will pickup some acid and give it a shot, have already tried soaking it in oil, the fuel and automatic transmission fluid but to no avail.

Once this motor is sorted, just have to weld up a few cracks in the base.

Bloke I bought the mower off was selling it as a garden ornament.....
I just had to save it knowing it was a rotomo.

Cheers
Scott

Thanks for clearing that up.
I will be trying the acid method next.

Cheers
Scott

BTW. Molasses is a great rust remover. Cheap as chips too.

Be very careful with ALL the acids,Especially when Combined withh ALLOY parts... Ive used most types and while they all have different effects,they are quite potent when put with alloy.

Mild sulphuric and hydrocloric acid are quite dangerous but very effective if mixed correctly. However they produce a very reactive action and emit Hydrogen gas,So if you use this method make sure its done outside and with respiratory protection. This will clean the rust and react with the alloy,dissolving the piston..BUT again its very dangerous and Id Really NOT recommend its use lighlty.

RECOMMENDED-Phosphoric( usually called alluminium cleaner) Acid is also good,less reaction and a much slower and gentler process. This acid I use in fuel tanks as it cleans the rust and slightly etches at the same time,so it does not promote surface rust as quickly.
Molasses" as Rusty Says is also good,Slower But SAFER.

Another method is an alkaline as it eats through grease/oil and other crap. It doesnt do much for rust but it will dissolve the piston. Again a strong chemical reaction occurs and caution is required.

Ive used all the above chemicals many times,they are effective when used correctly and by experts. Please use extreme caution if you choose this path. My own course of action for your dilema would be heat and re heat to shock,then a press. Just my own preference. And SAFER.:)
Good luck and Safety First".

Where in sydney are you from Scott? And 17....Great to see the younger generation taking an interest,spoke to another recently a little bit older and also very keen. Awesome!

Thanks mate.
Yep saftey is first.

I'm from the hawkesbury area.

I have heard about people using mollasses. May be my best bet.

Cheers
Scott

Done some research for you not sure if this is the same stuff I used years ago but this ones main use it for rust.
Oxalic Acid
Oxalic acid's main applications include cleaning or bleaching, especially for the removal of rust (iron complexing agent, e.g. Bar Keepers Friend is an example of a household cleaner containing oxalic acid. Its utility in rust removal agents is due to its forming a stable, water soluble salt with ferric iron, ferrioxalate ion.

Toxicity and safety

Oxalic acid has toxic effects through contact and if ingested; manufacturers provide details in Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS). It is not identified as mutagenic or carcinogenic; there is a possible risk of congenital malformation in the foetus; may be harmful if inhaled, and extremely destructive to tissue of mucous membranes and upper respiratory tract; harmful if swallowed and causes burns; harmful, destructive of tissue and causes burns if absorbed through skin or in contact with the eyes. Symptoms and effects include burning sensation, cough, wheezing, laryngitis, shortness of breath, spasm, inflammation and oedema of the larynx, inflammation and oedema of the bronchi, pneumonitis, pulmonary oedema.[15]
In humans, ingested oxalic acid has an oral LDLo (lowest published lethal dose) of 600 mg/kg.[16][dead link] It has been reported that the lethal oral dose is 15 to 30 grams.[17]
The toxicity of oxalic acid is due to kidney failure, which arises because it causes precipitation of solid calcium oxalate,[18] the main component of kidney stones. Oxalic acid can also cause joint pain due to the formation of similar precipitates in the joints. Ingestion of ethylene glycol results in oxalic acid as a metabolite which can also cause acute kidney failure.

Just remember the safety side of it.It is an acid and just treat it with the greatest of respect and it will do this job for you.
I've also been reading a lot about vinegar for rust removal,but I don't think that will help at this point maybe a bit to far gone for vinegar to help now.
Hope this helps you out.

Much appreciated blumbly.

Hope it all works out for you.

G'day have unseized a few engines over the years, although they had cast iron pistons.

the best method i have found is soaking in automatic transmission fluid for around a year and then hitting piston out with a sledge hammer and a block of wood.

in your case you might damage the piston, however if you shaped the end of the piece of wood to be a snug fit in the bore and hollow out the end of the piece of wood so that the force is directed to the outer part of the piston (strongest). Set the barrel up on blocks with the conrod hanging down and then give the wood a good strong hit with a heavy hammer. If you can it to move a fraction the battle is won and would tap out fairly easily. Another thing that helps too is heat up the barrel etc in you bbq, take it out and poor some icy water into the underside of the piston to shrink the piston a bit. hope that makes sense.

smash the piston from the inside out with a small pin punch, then you will be able to cut most of the way through the skirt with a hacksaw blade enough to get it out without damaging the bore enough that a rebore wont fix, oversize piston and rings, problem solved.

Scotty's gone quite for a few days.I'm getting worried about the acid part now.Did you try and did it work?

G'day All,
I have started, punching through the top of the piston but haven't got any further, i need to get back into it.

Since then iv picked up another rotomo, and a unknown brand mower, ill post some pics on the weekend for you guys. Iv got to stay away from swap meets!

Cheers
Scott

Hi Scott,

Did your restoration ever Progress?