OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Victa Walk-Behind Rotary Mowers Victa Rotomo - Model 2

Hi All,
I purchased this today.
I think its a model 1 Rotomo, would anyone be able to tell me the year it was made and what parts are correct/incorrect?

The numbers are 1 2727

It is seized.
What would be the best way to get it free

Thanks
Scott

Well by the engine number it is a Model 2 not a 1.Although it does look to have a model 1 throttle control on it.Also I think I see a cigar fuel tap on there as well.Year would be 1956-57.As far as an easy way to un-seize an engine....sorry you'll just have to pull it apart to see what has seized up.No easy way to free it up.really best just to find out why.

Thanks Blumbly, much appreciated.

Yes it does have the cigar fuel tap.

Is 12727 the build number? As in the 12727th Victa produced?

Cheers
Scott

What a little beauty Scott! Early To Mid 1956...Shes A very early Model 2 running the model 1 chassis. Every thing I can see appears accurate. You will need smily face choke (red Victa print) Model 2 Badge with 18" (both digits exact height),metal cap and fuel tap(this one is accurate Rotomo,but is for a later version). Thats it!

I Would need to see the engine parts stripped in order to determine accurately the barrel and head style,to see if these parts also carried over from the model 1 as well as the chassis.

Its my opinoin this is factory correct,as alot of the early models around the transition between model 1 and 2 often got leftover parts from the Model 1. This is especially common of the brass nut carby,barrel,head assy and chassis.

Chassis model 1
Throttle model 1
Barrel and head (unsure at this stage)
Carby Model 2
Engine model 2
Muffler model 2
Fuel Tap Model 2(late) Model 2a,Model 4 Automatic.
Top hat (unsure as I cant see the Images,if the chamfer on the top edge is barely visible its a model 1,if its prominent,then model 2.
Can clarify the unsures with better images

An Awesome little Rotomo Scott,Id dearly love this one...Well scored.

No its the 12,000TH "Rotomo" Produced Not the 12,000 victa..But a very early example none the less.

*Additional*

Because of its very early number,there is also the possibilty of it having the model 1 badge. Your choice As it could never be proved since its missing.

Thanks alot for that.

Its definitely going to get restored.
Iv got the metal fuel cap, so thats one think to check off the list.

Cheers
Scott

This is where im at with the engine.

Engine is off the frame.

Got the head off, broke a few bolts.

Got the cylinder free.

The pistion is seized. Looks like water has been sitting in the cylinder.
Iv tried tapping it with a lump of wood, and am now soaking the piston in engine oil.

Anyone have any advice?

Cheers
Scott

Two Choices...Scrap it! OR Cut the piston out and see if the barrel is salvagable. I highly doubt youll get this one free,as the Piston will be as good as welded to the barrel. If its a Model 2 barrel you shouldnt have any trouble getting another. If its a Model 1,then you will need to try and save the barrel,as they are harder to get.

Get the barrel loose and see how much damage is done to the internals of the crank case from the water,they may be corroded as well. If they are good id get another barrel,rebore and piston kit and start fresh. Spilt the crankcase and take remove the halves from the crank and put them aside so you can work on removing the piston without damage to the "Important" Casing.

I never asked,is there a Victa" stamping on the front of this Engine?

Nope no victa stamping.

From what I can see, the crankcase is in good shape.

So if I split the crankcase, I can remove the Conrod from the crankcase and then just have the barrel, Conrod, and piston together?

I'm all new to this, have never opened a crankcase before, but there's a first time for everything!

Off to read the victa manual...

Cheer
Scott

As blue has said if it is a model 2 cylinder than I'd just save the conrod and then you can go from that.If it is a model 1 there is only one way that I know to get it free.Now I can't think of the name of it but there is a mild acid that has to be mixed with water and pour it into the cylinder.Within one to four hours depending on the strength of the acid it will completely remove the rust and allow the piston to be free.Just beware that any acid is dangerous so please take extra care.You might be able to google this.I did it a very long time ago,but I can't remember what the acid was called.
If your not sure as to which model cylinder it is take some pictures from the top as if you were standing over the mower.As well as on an angel from the head side back to the crankcase allowing the fins to be seen,paying particular attention to the smaller fins near the crankcase.Very easy to tell the difference if you know what your looking for.

I'll take some pics tomorrow.

I think what you are talking about is called a "Pickle Bath".

I'll look into it. Seem like a good idea for this situation.

Thanks all!

Cheers
Scott

Agreed Blumbly. There are many Time consuming proceses you can try,but youll never save this piston. The main task here is saving the barrel.

No Victa" Stamping indicates a model 1 crankcase. On the exhaust side of the model 2 barrel you will see the fins are more squarish with a slight radius,at the ends. The model 1 Barrel will have rounded and more prominent curves at the ends and possibly a much rougher daggy overall casting. But given its low number and the use of the model 1 Crankcase id say its a Model 1. So try and save it.

And yes undo the 4 nuts holding the barrel to the C/Case. Hopefully the crank is not too siezed. Pull the barrel away gently from the studs,then split the crankcase. You may need to use a puller,and make sure your blade boss is off. Then you can bash and bang away until your hearts content.

Best of luck Scott,but as I said make sure it's worth the time and effort.Make sure it is a model 1 cylinder.As really model 2's are still easy enough to come by.

Thanks all.
I really appreciate the advice.

Will keep you guys posted on how I go.

Hi All,

Here is the head and cylinder.
No luck trying to twist the the cylinder and hope the cylinder will come free, just started to twist the conrod

Can you buy new conrods for this engine.
Iv seen new victa 18 pistons on ebay and all around the place, will these fit this engine?

Tryed to seperate the 2 halves of the crank case, it is loose but will not serpeate.
Whats the go?

Here are the pictures.

Cheers
Scott

you took out the barrel studs ? or tried with the still in , double nuts if there is room or studs will hold the cases together . remove the studs and it should come apart the bolts that hold cases together i think are only studs too , if same as later 18s ? maybe corroded around them so be really carefull not to break the case with numbers !

Im confused...Ok,So the crankshaft is turning? You pulled the barrel up over the studs yes? Your not trying to turn the piston in the barrel,you will damage the conrod,your just trying to get the barrel free from the crankcase Just relift the barrel over the studs. Remove the 4 crank case bolts completely. Remove the blade boss and seperate the 2 halves. BUT. You need to take the flywheel off,coil plate cam and blade boss or your wasting your time,and risking damage to other parts. Clear everything away.
The images show me that the barrel is definately a model 1 as is the head(full model 1 engine) You now need to be very careful as parts dont come easy.. Your main aim is to get it apart without damaging anything but the piston. Just do it step by step and ask questions whenever you like:) read the process in the victa book,should be pretty much the same as the steps for the later 125. And NO the conrod isnt readily available,and rarely sold seperatley from a complete engine.

Thanks guys.

Will completely strip it down as you said.

Is the piston the same as a standard victa 18 piston?

Cheers
Scott

Yes it is. Your going to need to rebore this barrel,providing its not out of specs,and if you can get it apart. This is definately not a general rule,But EVERY Rotomo Ive restored has been of STD size(Very Unusual,but true). So hopeflly the odds are good and youll have room for resize. Pistons and rings are still available in Std,020,040 and 060. Check the "ODK" Website for parts.