OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Briggs & Stratton Engines Rover Colt 5 - Briggs Engine

Hello everyone,
Whats a good replacement engine for a rover colt 5? The briggs that was on it had a rusted carby and i couldnt find a new one anywhere so i gave up and decided i will buy a new one. On ebay there is a 5.5hp briggs quantum that is $299 free postage and there is what looks like a chinese copy that is 6.5hp for $289 would one of those be suitable or can anyone recommend something else either new or second hand? I live in Tassie btw.

Thanks,
Jarrod

Hi Jarrod, if there is nothing wrong with your 5 hp Briggs except a rusty carburetor, that sounds like a poor reason to replace the engine. Why don't you post pictures of the engine and carburetor, tell us which parts of the carburetor are rusty, and post the full string of numbers stamped into the air cowl, so you can see whether someone here can help you? From memory there aren't many steel parts on the carburetor, you may be just talking about the governor's base plate being rusty. That seems a very small problem to be replacing an engine over, especially replacing it with one that may be inferior.

The ones on ebay are pushmower engines also, you need a cast iron flywheel for a rideon.

Hello Grumpy,
The bloke i bought it off had it sitting outside for several years and the carby had orange algae or something like that in it and the diaphragm needs to be replaced but i thought it would be a waste to buy a kit for a carby that was had it but i will still post some pics the numbers i found are Model:130902 Type:1175 01 Code:84051706 Hope that helps. I did find a new carby on a website called small engine warehouse but it doesnt say anywhere about posting to australia and im not sure if its the right one.
Thanks

Jarrod, your engine is a 13 cubic inch (213cc) model of the first design generation, with vertical crankshaft, a Pulsa-Jet carburetor, plain main bearings, and a manual recoil starter. It was made on 15 May 1984. I don't see why exposure to the weather would do any more than cosmetic damage to a Pulsa-Jet carburetor, though there would be some rusting of the governor base and levers on top of it. The carburetor body is made of either zinc or plastic depending on your luck (zinc is better), both of which are very corrosion-resistant.
Here is the illustrated parts list for your engine:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/Z6nlxAVJ1DajI.pdf

Here is the owner manual:
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/msotJO-K_ny7tH217FzoPu.pdf

As you probably know, the Pulsa-Jet carburetor has a built-in fuel pump, and the associated diaphragm may or may not have deteriorated in the 27 years since it was built. However it is only a few minutes work to replace it.

When you post pictures of the engine we will learn whether it is a light duty type or an Industrial/Commercial (I/C) type.

Parts for most Briggs engines are available from the Outdoorking on-line store, as well as from various other places. Yours is not an uncommon engine and there are probably several Outdoorking members who can help you with a second-hand carburetor, but at this point I see no reason to expect that there is anything wrong with your carburetor that a simple overhaul will not cure.

The carby has orange algae or something inside it but it probably wouldnt hurt to try a new diaphragm if that doesnt work i will look for a second hand one.

Clean out that orange crud from the inside of the air passage and venturi. Also clean the mesh filter in the bottom of the brass tube that reaches down through the diaphragm. You will need to clean the interior of the carburetor and the main jet. Here is the Briggs manual for doing that, use the "next" key for subsequent pages:
http://recoveryvehicles.tpub.com/TM-5-4240-501-14P/css/TM-5-4240-501-14P_97.htm
Part of the procedure it explains is how to inspect the diaphragm. You do not need to replace the carburetor, based on what I can see from the pictures.

Thos motors are strong as a brick poohouse in my opinion, I did have one chuck a rod once and that was thanks to an owner that never checked the oil. I replaced it with another engine of the same type that was even older (mine was white and circa 1974) and it has outlasted the rest of the mower (the mower I pulled the engine from was worn out as well)

As to the carb, I would pull everything apart from it gently and leave it soaking overnight in either fuel or some heavy duty degreaser, try and clean every orifice you can find in it, blow air from an air compressor through every gallery and refit with a new diaphragm and tank gasket (around 10 bucks) then check the tune and go from there.

Thanks i will try that and i will let you know how it goes.

The place up the road i get my bearings belts and orings from have some cheaper brand of carb cleaner that does a pretty fair job.

Some of that, a small flat blade screwdriver a tooth brush, some pokey things and get to work.



I think the biggest problem you will have will be getting the carb to seal back on the tank. Thats the issue i had with the last one i tried. Its still up the back of the shed in the 'problems for another day' pile. Motor was off a Rover side throw and going on a compost Shredder but i turned up another shredder so i set it aside.
If my memory is right the shaft is 1" that steps down to 3/4 at the end.

I do have a Colt here, the chassis is drilled to either the 5 or the 8 hp motor will drop straight on it.

The top of the tank and the bottom of the carburetor may not be flat. However with a Pulsa-Jet that causes rich mixture (very rich indeed), not lean mixture.

There are two available cures if tank or caburetor is bowed: use the awful Briggs kit (roll pin and teflon washer), or draw file them both flat. Bob, it's time you learned the latter technique, you have plenty of parts to practise on.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=22526#Post22526

Im thinking it was more the gasket i made up out of generic gasket paper.