OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines G3 carby setting governor

Hello Victa enthusiasts.I have an early 70's 600 Victa slasher that died electrically. After cheking plug I have replaced the coil,condensor,points, and plug. Couldnd't muster a spark at 20 thou for the contacts, tried 15 thou which provides spark that is very yellow and unconvincing. Mower ran, but only at mid range revs. Fiddled the governor a few notches, ran at higher revs, but without any throttle control... just plateaus at high revs. Removed carby to inspect for... i dont know what, and notice that buterfly valve was 3/4 closed.
I''ve had a trawl through the victa forum info, and saw Mr Davis's post victa carby tips #23769. Mine is the early G3 without a govenor vane clip. There doesn't seem to be any slippage with the governor gearing, its just not set in the right place. Can someone advise me on how this govenor vane works, and how to set it up. I understand that tightening provides increased revs, but at what point in the throttle range should the gears engage?
Once the carby is back on track I'll get back problem solving that weak spark.
NB. I am not a natural tech person. Very much trial and error, with tendency to the later. Have only got this far due to confidence provided by my 1972 Readers Digest Repair Manual, which describes this engine.
With thanks.

etal,

The setup procedures are in the parts list and manuals area of the forum. If the gears have not been installed correctly you will have issues setting up the govenor.

thanks Bruce. Will look up the manual.

I would be seriously considering what you are going to do with the spark.


Personaly i would keep an eye open for a victa mower with a series 80 engine on it. And fit the whole motor.

Thanks Rodeobob. I've upgraded my assessment of the spark - assisted by having someone else on the pull rope! Its got some blue in it and looks "reasonable" Have reset the governor with help from the manual and got it all back together. Is running pretty well. I figure that part of the governor "plateau" may have been due to running without the starter and cowl attached - not appreciating it's role.
Now seeking to get a little more out of it - to my ear its not getting to 2 stroke high revs. Could that be due in part to having contacts at 15 thou?
I notice that after a 1 or 2 min run there is unburnt fuel residue in the manifold / muffler. Is that due to early or late timing, or could that be expected from the prime when starting?

The fuel residue should not be happening as a result of starting, It sounds more like a slight leak somwhere in the carby.

If you take of the float bowl, and pull out the little brass jet, How is the O-ring?

Hello Ty.
Should I have a replacement gasket for the float bowl before investigating for a dodgy O ring? [heads up from Readers Digest repair manual] It took a long time for my local shop to get a crankshaft key in. Which reminds me, the keyway is a bit worn, will that affect running ?
thanks - Alistair

Weather it is a major concern depends on how worn, if you could get a feeler gauge down the side of the key and let us know, that would help.

The float bowl gasket can sometimes be comfortably saved, it depends on the material, and care used. often it cannot though, so yes. to speed thing up, they are in the shop right here on the forum!

there are a few issues that could be effecting this, most of them lie in that bowl, so it is probably a good idea to give the carby a good clean up!

Points gap in theory will effect timing which changes everything.

The o ring, if fuel is leaking past it that will change the jetting.



It might last forever but i still would not walk past a Mk80 off an old steel base.

thanks gents.
I'll get into the carby, but not for a while. Had a visit yesterday from an arborist, so there's a heap of work to do with the Huskvarna before returning to the Victa.
When I get there, is the O ring ok if its not cracked, perished or deformed?

As long as it also has not developed a flat edge, otherwise it just wont put enough pressure around the jet.

HERE is the gasket, if you need it.

I cant seem to find a jet O-ring in the shop, Bruce might be able to help with that though. I will check if the fuel tap O-ring will be suitable.

When cleaned up, the G3 carby works wonderfully, if the points become to much of an issue, they can be replaced with a module, without changing the engine.

The G3 was only run for a few years, and machines that are originall with it, are slowly becoming hard to find, there are plenty of S80 Super 600's out there, we dont need to make another commoner out of an uncommon machine, Plus theres no need to toss a good engine.

thanks for the words of respect for the machine. Will do my best to preserve her... uncommoness.

I wish I could say it was Rarity, but not just yet! However, Hold onto her, and keep it in good shape, and it will become quite a nice peice to have.

I would already classify an origional Super 600 with a G3 as collectable.

Please let us know how you go when you get the time to go over the carby on this one, if you get stuck, let me know, I am happy to swap a fully restored carby for your current one if needs be.

Really appreciate this support Ty. As a card carrying bolt shearing nut stripping spring loosing gasket wrecking... dabbler, it's very moving to learn that theres folks out there on the www that are willing to provide support. Nevermind that they are not sane.

The mower in question has had a hard life, and we live on a stony rough bush block, so its never going to be pretty. But it does the business! Do you have access to undercarriage parts? Its missing a few things in the spring, clamp, bush categories [ I'd need to get to the shed to be specific].

cheers - Alistair

Hi Alistair, Sorry to say I'm not able to be much help with undercarriage parts for that model, I have no parts at all left for on here.

Engine I can help with, Heck, I could probably find you a whole engine for it in the shed, but from the pulley on, I am beat.

However, once you have a full list of what you need, you could always pop a bulletin in the wanted section, and someone else here might well be able to help you out.

I'll hop on the phone to a few places and people i know tomorrow though, and see what parts are available for this model.

How is the engine going at this point?

Only work done has been on the keyboard! Thanks for the scouting, but no hurry, though I am determined to continue its functional rejuvenation. Will let you know when I get the carby apart.
Alistair

Ive had the front axle out of one and re tensioned the axle clips.
One i have here at the moment has u bolts holding the front axle in. Washers over the original holes with a nut and i would assume new holes drilled at the front for the other.

Blade plates are available in the store.

I fixed my grandfathers up for my uncle, i had to replace all the bolts/nuts that hold the belt cover on.


Spring??? Im not sure there is one.

Thanks gentlemen. Have got enough sawing done to continue with the mower...
It is the same as the S600 illustrated in the parts section, though the baseplate [what I'd call the deck - the cast aluminium body] doesn't feature the maltese cross type form in the centre.
Its missing one of the long springs CH84933A, and a clamp from the back axle. I'm inclined not to replace the spring cos removing the cover above the blades looks very troublesome with eroded bolt heads, or free spinning bolts. Is a grinder the tool in such situations?
Back to the carby. The O ring looks good, no blockages either, gasket behaved well. Theres no clip for the governor spring. I'll check the shop. With fitting the governor the instructions are to " Place the large gear in position with one tooth showing to the right hand side of the top of the small gear" The best I can manage is having the teeth about 50/50 on each side of the top of the small gear. Is that ok?
Havn't got to retest it as the pull cord recoil has packed a sad, and didn't have the time to tackle that can of worms.
Am I right that its of little value to try starting with a rope on the drum above the flywheel, as the governor need the cowling in place.
thanks - Alistair

The governor indeed needs the cowling in place, as unlike many other mowers, and the Victa G2, the flag actually works of air deflected from inside the cowl.

With the gears, it's not to much of an issue, I just tend to make sure there is a few teeth left either side in both open and closed positions.

the excess fuel could be the result of simply the low revving, due to tuning, let ma know how you go with the clip, if you cant get one, I should be able to dig one up.

With G3's, I always find it pays to clean them right up inside and out with a bit of fuel and a tooth brush, dry all the parts and re-assemble, when you are done, make sure the spring is locked into the ring and governor properly, and then move the arm fully counter clockwise, here, set the ring so that the valve just tries to close up.

Then blow gently into the fuel nipple with the carby upside down, it should fully seal, turning it over should let air pass, repeat a few times to test.

When you are cleaning it out, float the float in some petrol for a little while, to make sure there are no leaks, and also make sure to clean the teeth on the throttle ring, and the corresponding teeth on the arm very well, to get all dirt out.

great detail Ty. Look forward following the diagnostics. I did give the float a shake to listen for any petrol within, and a good clean with brush.

Couldn't see and governor clips in the store. Only hit for me was in England - does that sound right? Great definition diagram though on the English site: [http://www.casterbridgegardenmachinery.co.uk/victaspares_allycarb.asp ] might be a good inclusion to the parts list?
Should I email you my postal details, and talk about payment?

Is there any problem running without the cowling, just to test fuel in exhaust issue? Note confidence re starter assembly! Though yes I have got the info from the parts and manuals section.

You could run the engine without the cowl, for a little (not to long though, the cowl is important for cooling) but you will not get a good idea of the carburettor operation, as the govenor plays an important role in this.

I can help you out with a few things for this though, I will PM you more.

Sorry To hi-jack this thread but it seems the most appropriate for my issue.
So my Buddy turns up at My place with his old Victor 160 Corvette, a non runner and asks me to fix it.




New Plug, fires straight up, BUT throttle works in reverse sense, I.E. pushing it forward, revs reduce to Idle, pulling it back, revs increase to Max.




Closer inspection reveals a G3 carbie, so download the relevant docs, set it up, as per earlier on this thread, and Voila.. exactly the same.... which didn't surprise me as that was exactly what I expected from how it is rigged. Now i'm a modest man, but I think I'm a pretty good engineer, and this set up just makes No sense at all. I fully understand that the throttle doesn't control the butterfly, but only the spring tension, but regardless, pushing the throttle lever forward is only ever going to INCREASE the tension in the spring, and make it HARDER for the butterfly to open, and EASIER for it to close.... i.e REDUCE the revs.







I took it apart again and studied it for two hours..... it is possible to reverse tension the spring, but that doesn't work.
The butterlfy cant be installed the wrong way around..... so maybe its the wrong throttle lever for t his mower??.... but I doubt it... what am i missing, its driving me crazy....

meantime mower works absolutely fine..... in REVERSE sense of lever

HELP!!

Yep, definitely a mismatch between the carby and throttle control.

One giveaway is the stop switch wire going to the throttle control. This setup is pre-G3; all G3 carbies had the stop switch in the 'throttle connector' arm, as that one does.

Victa carby diagrams: https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=11468

I'd suggest that the machine has been retrofitted with the G3 carby at some time, likely due to parts availability. The throttle control/air filter is probably original.

Some more detail: https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=47903#Post47905

The G2 carby is P/No 3-260; the G3 is 3-335 - that list shows different throttle controls and cables for the two carby models.

the vane is facing the wrong way around. the engine spins clockwise and blows it.

Incorrect. That is set up by the manual, with the vane blade lined up with the top screw of the gear cover plate, at fully closed throttle.

Edit: https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=23929 has some more info on Corvettes, but it may not be 100% correct for the 1969-72 models, with respect to air cleaner/throttle controls.

Long air cleaner [top-opening] + separate throttle control [both VC-160 type] is correct for the G3 carby on the Corvette. That's what's shown in the pic in the second link in my earlier post.

ok yes checked my corvette has the g2 carb

That looks to be a 3L. The G2 was the first Victa governed carby, with the metal vane.

yes correct again .my brain is not functioning at the moment . i only bought a g2 the other day so i should know better