OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions On Ride On Mowers Questions on Greenfield Ride On Mower Frames Greenfield pulley drive separation

Serious corrusion indeed. I have put heaps of inox on it and still no budging it. I have applied some heat around the rim near the axle but am a bit hesitant. I will continue the task after i control the grass.
The photo of the disc says it all.
I suspect the previous owner was a bit of a shall we say a careless driver and has collected something...
There are no cracks in the metal...I would shutter to think what a new blade plate would cost. I am in rough terrain so i only use 2 blades, i will try and straighten 2 and see how it cuts. There is still heaps of meat on the metal so blades won't come off.
Cheers for the help guys i will check it out soon and let you know the results.

Murray
My wheel is as you say single centre nut. With a keyway hidden inside.
I actually do have 2 holes in the rim but being an alloy i am very tentative about using a pulley on it??????? I did think of it but for once I decided it may not be such a good idea...
Everything on this mower has been a task, i don't need to get the rim off it is more of a maintenance thing while it is in the shed, BUT it has taken on more of a meaning now and it is my mission in life to get it off....

The one in Murray's diagram is quite different from the 12-32 I was describing. It appears yours does not have detachable wheels - the one in the manual on this site does have detachable wheels, and I was telling you how to get the hub off after you took the wheel off. Yours seems to be like Aldot's, shown earlier in this thread.

Your hub is on a short taper, as Murray's diagram shows. I do not see a way to use a puller on it - certainly not a leg-type puller. I suggest asking a Greenfield dealer how he/she gets them off. Heat is not especially effective with tapers, especially when you are likely to cook your tyre and tube. It needs an axial force combined with an impact. Because the taper is short and steep, it is probably quite easy to remove with the right technique, but without seeing the available space behind the wheel, I can't guess what that is.

Hi Beerpig, I can tell you that for my model, Tractor 11VE 28inch cut that the blade carrier is $135.Different to yours though. Mine is a square plate and yours has the scalloped sides which is similar to the latest models.

Got mine running today and cut a smidge of grass with it. Good to get the beast moving again. All up I replaced the four belt idler pulleys, drive belt tensioner pulley. Replaced all wiring, made a dodgy battery base and battery clamp, replaced the chain, replaced the engine, replaced as many of the imperial bolts as I could with metric and put on some new blades.

About the only thing I can fault is the pedal has a smidge too much travel. I have some new shims for the clutch which I'll fiddle with on the weekend.

I think the front tyres might be a smidge wider than the originals as they foul against the chassis on full lock even though it has steering stops.

Well i had another inspection of the spindle and there were no cracks etc etc so i decided to give it a trial.
From my last 11HP 28" cut this thing mows unbelievable.
The cut seems nice and flat, I had to adjust the trim about 5 mm to one side but so much quicker and the turning circle is a massive improvement on my old model.
Very happy with it.
I have to go to the greenfield shop tomorrow so i will enquire about how to get that wheel off. The one side was quiet easy but the RH side is definitely stuck..As you suggest Grumpy there will be an easy way!!!Unfortunately this is normally the last way I try...Ha ha.
I will price a new blad carrier also.
Aldot, I have a similar problem with a bit too much travel between F and R but I can live with it..Now just a matter of fine tuning and maintenance.......
Cheers all

Beerpig, so far as the blade plate is concerned, can't you just bend the ends of the plate down with large shifting spanners? Of course you'd have to bend two opposite sides of the plate at the same time, so you wouldn't bend the center spindle.

With regard to removing the right rear wheel, I think I know how I'd do it, but there is probably a better way so I haven't suggested it. (I think I'd make a flat plate puller out of 3/8" or 1/2" steel plate, drilling four holes in it on a pitch circle diameter just big enough to give a useful clearance around the wheel hub, then I'd use that puller as a template to drill four matching holes in each wheel disk. Then I'd run a bolt through each of the holes, from the flat plate through the wheel, with the center of the plate resting on the end of the axle shaft. I'd put a nut on each bolt on the back of the wheel. Then I'd tighten the four bolts evenly, until they were applying a fair amount of force on the end of the axle shaft, pulling on the hub. Then I'd tap right in the center of the flat plate, directly over the axle shaft, with a hammer.) If the dealer has a better way to do it, please post it here, so it will be in our archive for the next person with a similar problem to solve.

Grumpy
I actaully did straighten the tips a little, but thought i better not say it incase someone frowned upon my backyard techniques..ha ha.
My wheel has 2 holes in the back rim already so i figure Greenfield probably have a puller of some sort, as you sugested using threaded rod and nuts or similar.
Bit reluctant to pester the local dealer. The poor bugger was 6 foot under water last week in the flood. There is no stock on the floor at the moment but he is always very helpful...I think he knows i am saving for a new Greenfield. Ha ha
Will let you know my results.

If there are holes in the wheels, opposite each other and close in near the hubs, I think we can make a very good guess at how people pull them off. I'd rather have four holes to reduce the risk of deforming the wheels, but obviously it is much easier to make a two bolt flat plate puller than a four bolt one. You just need a piece of 2.5"x0.5" steel long enough to span the two holes in the wheel, drill holes in it to match the ones in the wheel, grab a couple of bolts or pieces of threaded rod, and it's all over. However if the holes in the wheel are far, far apart (more than 6") you would need to reconsider the dimensions of the flat plate. Remember, thicker is far more effective than wider.

My concern about using a puller would be if the key on the axle has worn a grove in the wheel from the constant forward and reversing action of general usage. That would mean there is some slop in the wheel on the shaft causing slight forward and backward play. This would then mean you would have to hope the wheel is jammed on and by coincidence the keyway is aligned in its original position to allow easy removal with a puller otherwise you'll do some serious damage. Sounds confusing.

The key is about 2" long and the LH wheel has no shows of wear so i am guessing nothing to sinister in there apart from corrosion.
Serious damage is a definite possibility but i am going to make up a 2 leg pulley as Grumpy sugested and give it a crack tonight. If that doesn't work out comes the angle grinder.....ha ha

Beerpig, I hope you have been keeping the hub-to-axle joint wet with penetrating oil. aldot, I don't think key movement is all that likely when the hub is frozen onto a taper by corrosion, and won't move.

Grumpy
Don't worry I used about a can of inox on it....
Made up a plate of some 1/2" Aluminium plate(all i had)the length of the plate was only 140mm and holes at 70mm centres, so Aluminium worked well. drilled 2 matching holes , 2 long threaded bolts and hey presto the wheel pulled straight off...well not straight off...Magic.....Those sneaky Greenfield guys would have 1 made up in the back of the shed hidden from backyard warriors like myself..ha.ha.
All is well, thanks for the help.
Just need to retension my drive chain fix the blade rotor and get back into it....Oh and maybe a paint job.
Cheers.

Thanks for reporting the outcome, Beerpig. I'd have preferred a mild steel plate to an aluminium one, but I can't quarrel with success. Seems like you might keep it handy for next time.

I'll close this thread.