Hi dramapig, CyberJack, BB,
Well done mate, you've got it all apart and my suspicions re the clutch cork were proven correct. wink

I'm of two minds here, one part of me is saying keep the machine original and replace the captive cotter and retain that inner clutch-half....the other part is being more rational and asking you to consider purchasing a new inner clutch-half with the 2 grub-screws which is a much improved attachment method.... wink

You can see (in your pics) where the end of the engine shaft key is chewed, this is because with the captive cotter retention method the key can move in its keyway, but with the grub-screw retention method, it can't, as it is held in position firmly by one of the grub-screws.

The grub-screw retention method is much better in that it allows you to loosen the grub-screws and move the whole clutch assembly to facilitate cutter clutch adjustment much more easily.
There is also the thought that this improvement helps reduce vibration and thus reduces the chance of cracking of the engine deck.

Just adding to CyberJacks post above, here is how the captive cotter works...
[Linked Image]


At this time also I would consider purchasing a new thrust bearing also, as yours, (most probably) is past its used-by date. wink
cheers


Please do not PM me asking for support. Please post your questions in the appropriate forums, as the replies it may receive may help all members, not just the individual member.
Kindest Regards, Darryl grin