G'day Folks.

In my last post on this matter -> https://outdoorking-forum.com.au/fo...weeds-best-way-to-remove.html#Post121015, I thought it best to clarify exactly what the process involves, in detail.

Firstly - Roundup: Active Constituents: 100g/L Glyphosate present as isopropylamine salt, if used correctly can be a very powerful tool, for those who like to keep their Common Couch home lawns, totally weed free.

Note: DO NOT apply if rain is expected within a 6 hour period. Do not disturb treated species for 7 days. And most certainly, don't use in windy conditions

Now there are 3 Full Strength recommended rates, and they are as follows:

1. Rate per 1 Litre of water - 20mL [used primarily for Annual Ryegrass, Buffalo Grass, Kikuyu, Nutgrass, Oxalis, Paspalum, Bindii [jojo], Sorrel and St. John's Wort et al.]

2. Rate per 1 Litre of water - 30mL [used primarily for Blady Grass, Couch Grass, Queensland Blue Couch, Paramatta Grass, Crab [Crowsfoot] Grass and, Onion Grass~All States except for S.A.]

3. Rate per 1 Litre of water - 40mL [used primarily for Blackberries et al.]

Note that the above rates will give you a Total Kill to the species mentioned along with many others, not mentioned.

So, how does it work on your Couch "Cynodon dactylon" lawns? The actual chemical itself is not a poison [nor does it have a Poison Schedule No.], in fact, it doesn't even have a UN number! I was once told by a very reliable source, that it works by tricking/preventing the plant/grass/weed etc., from photosynthesizing, and of course without photosynthesis, no above ground grown plants can survive. That is how you get the total kill effect. I have known of some highly regarded Golf Course Superintendents, in N.S.W, who have used this half-rate method on their Couch fairways, with amazing results.

All of this is possible, because most Couches on well established lawns are stoloniferous, and usually have relatively deep rhizomes, so, you can actually get away with using the chemical at Half-Rates, as per the table above, to end up with a weed free lawn.

In my case, I simply use a well cleaned "Weed 'n Feed" 5 Litre container, using the no. 2 option above, i.e., meaning I needed to put in 5 Litres of water and add 75mL of Roundup, along with a teaspoon [5mLs] of dish-washing detergent, which acts as a surfactant. I then give the container a very good, gentle shake, and go out and spray.

It is very important to remember that one application of this mixture [employing this half-rate method and whatever container size you use], will not be enough. You will need to do this 2, or perhaps even 3 times [depending on the infestation], to get the desired result [usually a week and a half between each spray & cut], and of course, you can only apply this method during the vigorous growing season, i.e., Early Spring-Late Spring-Very Early Summer. You should also be aware that your Couch, after the first application in some instances, may look a tad bedraggled. Just accept that, as things will quickly improve.

Below are a few pics I took today, after my first application of this mixture on our back-yard croquet lawn. You can clearly see the effect [i.e., the brown spots] this method has had in the weed eradication process. The lawn was double cut after a week and a half of the first spray, but it is going to need another application ASAP [and maybe even a third]. Finally, it is always a very wise thing to keep notes on when and where and what was sprayed, for future reference...

Once the end result looks good to your satisfaction and your Couch is "jumping out of the ground", spread some Shirley's No 17 Fertilizer [or whatever you use] on your lawn, water it in well and then when the time is right, [if you are using A SB 17" e.g.] start double cutting it [or however you mow], and your lawns will be the envy of all your neighbours.

I hope this post helps you, on how to use this excellent and powerful tool... smile

mice_elf

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Always striving for a better lawn...