not flash at all. attachment below. the pulley is off skates, I have had them so long the outer part just peeled off in my hands. and dexion frame which allows for adjustments. drilled two holes, that was easy (I only really got around to learning how to sharpen drill bits last year) . welded the bolts onto the frame for easy of use and adjustment. it all depends on how long that nylon pulley lasts for. I might be better off purchasing the small drive sprocket and using one of those. maybe a spring tensioner. but I think this will work. I have plenty more skate wheels.
other things.
I did notice the wheel hub has some movement in it, around 1-2mm . and I was pleased the rear wheels, unlike the front ones, were easy to remove, just like a car.
tappet lapping gear etc in the post coming today... I will bite the bullet and just do it. having on again off again issues with starting the thing. ok if I manually put petrol down the throat, but I have used three carbies (another one in the post)... the original carby was the last to be good. I have yet to see a 'carby kit' or get into the gizards of one of these. it seems like things these days stuff up just sitting there for years , even if new and unused.
also the ignition coils... the new one stuffed up (after I burned the lead on another on the muffler (question, is it ok for the lead to touch any metal, even warm like the front valve head lid? probably best to avoid, but surely there should be some plastic bracket... there is a hole on the side of the valve head lid, probably there) .
the stuffed up coil , perhaps because I had the wire that attaches to it for the seat cutoff switch loose and last found it hugging the battery cable, can that ruin them with power coming up into the coil ? I have yet to check this 'key' thing. but it was running albeit without the power I wanted up the kill (drive chain maybe and tuning). the old/new carbie had stopped almost all the backfiring (but I am doing the valves anyway. this has 477 hours on it (I wonder if the odometer was not messed with) - I have only done 27 hours since I purchased it 5 years ago, and it has been idle, not working, for 4 of those years. one reason I gave up was the new carbies (not the one in the post) with the flood/backfire solenoids at the bottom , as I had no wires to go on to it, it was in no fuel by default. I used the cut it off from the inside techinque after doing some internet homework last month, which worked for a while. and I am assuming it does not matter to not have the safety wire in place (apart from safety) in terms of the ignition starting or timing. I have 4 coils, and one in the mail. 2 of them here the shorter leads (I stuffed up) which do not reach, with my stihl chainsaw coils you can remove the leads, just a screwing operation. what about these ones? it seems not or can two leads be connected. I assume not worth it. the current coil got it's spark plug cap from another coil (and might be one of my issues too)
also I had to tighten the drive belt up more as the left side (when seated) belt was twisting to flat. I used that red lever thing above hat I posted in the thread for tyre removal, it is rounded and hugged the tensioning pulley, and I got away with the large hammer technique (I had tried the kick with boot technique).
one question, the fuel filter, does it matter which way it goes on? like the new coils which no longer have stamped on them which side up, the filter is silent on it too.
I am nothing if not persistent.
it was fun while it lasted and I look forward to getting it going again. after the big floods here last year the local Greenfield dealer had no mechanic, that and other issues of these times make me more determined to be my own mechanic.
these greenfields still sell for $2500, new over $8000 and any of them will have to be worked on at some point in time.
though i think by now I could have trained a pack of 10 goats for mowing and carting.
another question (sorry if too many here) . if I still cannot get it running I am considering purchasing a new motor. probably go 18hp up from this 13.5 . one reason is fuel economy. will a new motor be any more efficient than a well maintained old one? I purchased a replacement mower 3 years ago for an old tiller, and even though it was not used for 2 years, it started first go. maybe they have improved in some ways (or I got 'packapoo ticket' lucky).
