It's essentially a gas soldering iron with a larger flatter tip. In a pinch, you could use a soldering iron. The goal is to melt the plastic back together, and if needed, add additional plastic or steel mesh as reinforcement.
If it'll fit in there, or if it won't and you have a soldering iron, give it a shot. If it's already broken, what do you have to lose?
Paul, never had a wear problem that I know of, only mowers I get to see again are usually float needle problems, float needles really do my head. I don't have any broken cams here at the moment, they go straight in the bin so the don't get mixed up with the good ones.
I've heard a lot of issues with the float needles, and I've purchased some upgraded needles myself (On your recommendation I believe). I did find, however, that in some cases the fuel flow problem relating to the needle was simply caused by someone putting the needle in the wrong way or the needle or seat being gummed up. Some carby cleaner made quick work of it and the problem was solved. Something that may relate to people having needle and seat issues could also come down to the fuel they're using. I know that so many people recommend 91, but personally, I only ever use 98 with premium 2-stroke mix and with a 25:1 ratio, and I never have a problem. Perhaps it's the additives in the 98 fuel that helps keep things cleaner, or the premium oil being more stable for longer while the 2-stroke mix is stored. Either way, we're getting off topic haha. We can start a new thread to go down that path if you'd like
Don't think I will start another topic Paul, I think float needles have been done to death and I'm a bit tired of it all. I have another one coming back this morning with a nitrile tip and new primer cap pouring fuel out the primer bulb. They are better than the original ones but they are not perfect.
I needed some more of the metal needles so I bought the 10 for $17 deal. They look exactly the same as the other ones so I assume they are. I have not used any yet as I have had a of the old plastic needles that seem to be OK.
I do have one here at the moment that has the opposite to the overeving problem. It will stop if its idled down completely, but idles quite well if held slightly above the minimum on the throttle. Wonder what that is? Ever tried fitting a G4 end cap to a LM. I have plenty of G4 's and they do have the excellent factory idle adjuster screw.
Hi Jeff those $17 needles are very good value and he claims they are from the same manufacturer. As for the G4 caps on LM bodies, all my bodies end up in one box regardles G4 or LM, caps end up the same. When I need to put a carb together I just grab what is closest to the top of the box. I also drill the G4 idle screw, I could probably get away without doing it but it is what I have always done so I keep doing it
I do have one here at the moment that has the opposite to the overeving problem. It will stop if its idled down completely, but idles quite well if held slightly above the minimum on the throttle. Wonder what that is?
Hi Jefffrombrisbane,
If your carby is a G4 and has the idle adjuster screw on it try screwing it in a fair bit to make it idle faster, I know on my full crank if I turn the idle screw out too far it will stall the engine when it is back in the idle position on the throttle control. If you have an LM carby without the idle adjuster then I guess it gets a bit tricky. You may have to take the carby off and check it out, it may be the opposite of what we have been talking about here, if you have any extra washers in the carby you might need to take one out or something to bring the idle up a little bit?
I also don't go by the original markings on the throttle control housing, mine idles nice and slow and it's just a tad further down than what the throttle control says is the "start" position. It may have been more accurate for idle there when they were new, but after 30 years or so things just wear. As long as you can get a good slow idle somewhere that's all you need.
I hope this helps mate.
Cheers!
Zip a dee doo dah, zip a dee ay, another trash picked Victa, hip hip Hooray!
G day pau13z, did you measure the total thickness of these washers you added? I had quite a time finding the right washer/ combination of washers to make up 1.6mm thickness as instructed in NormK's carby mod thread.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
did you measure the total thickness of these washers you added? I had quite a time finding the right washer/ combination of washers to make up 1.6mm thickness as instructed in NormK's carby mod thread.
G'day Mowerfreak,
Unfortunately, I don't have anything like a vernier calliper to measure them with, but I can tell you that they're mighty thin. Also note that as a service part, a maximum of 4 are recommended to be used, and I'm pretty sure each one is less than 0.5 mm thick. And at retail, they're expensive for what they are, anywhere from $1.50-$3 for just 1. I've seen some wholesalers/distributors selling them for less than $0.20 each haha.
I purchased quite a few so I have spares and so I don't run out any time soon, so I'll try to send some pictures or measure them for you and send something through.
That's great to hear mate, so it also works on the LM carby with no idle screw. So in the end you just have to live with whatever idle speed you get on these carbies even after adding the washers? I guess if it's too slow and stalls you have to take a washer out or something? Trial and error I suppose. I've only ever had a mower with an idle screw, it just feels weird using a mower without an idle screw...lol
Well this is good to know as when I start working on the powertorque mower with the LM carby, I can also try these brass washers if it runs too fast at idle etc. We'll see what happens.
Hi Mowerfreak, I got my brass washers here at Outdoorking back in 2011. Here's the same link to the washers below:
Thanks Converse for the link. I had to sort through many washers to come up with one combination that worked, though I found a pack of washer assortments if mine that included a size that fit over nicely, with a thickness not far off (1.7mm approx) I'll try that next time.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
MF somewher you asked how I did the idle screw nut. I drill a 3/16th hole through the center of the cap, the run a 6mm tap through it. Then I put the nut on a 6mm bolt and screw it into the cap, then JB Weld the nut in place being careful to not getting any on the thread. Seems to work ok. When I get the mower up and running and I set the idle, I put a bit of silicone on the thread of the bolt and screw it in till I get the idle I want. This holds the screw enough to prevent it from moving once set but still allows it to be altered if required
so it also works on the LM carby with no idle screw. So in the end you just have to live with whatever idle speed you get on these carbies even after adding the washers? I guess if it's too slow and stalls you have to take a washer out or something? Trial and error I suppose
Hi Converse,
Yeah that's right. As far as I can tell there's no definitive measure of how many washers you need, it's a trial and error, based on how the mower is running, which can be a bit frustrating but I find the PowerTorque engines often rev a little high so putting an extra washer first is normally a good idea, remove one if you need to.
Originally Posted by Mowerfreak
I had to sort through many washers to come up with one combination that worked, though I found a pack of washer assortments if mine that included a size that fit over nicely, with a thickness not far off (1.7mm approx) I'll try that next time.
Hi Mowerfreak,
Just remember, the maximum thickness recommended is 4 of these brass washers, and that would be for extreme wear. The mower I was working with was over revving quite a bit, and 2 washers resolved the issue. A standard thick washer also resolved the issue but caused issues with the throttle cable movement, so don't go too thick with the washers or you may run into other problems. Stick to the super thin washers.
or the needle or seat being gummed up. Some carby cleaner made quick work of it and the problem was solved. Something that may relate to people having needle and seat issues could also come down to the fuel they're using. I know that so many people recommend 91, but personally, I only ever use 98 with premium 2-stroke mix and with a 25:1 ratio, and I never have a problem. Perhaps it's the additives in the 98 fuel that helps keep things cleaner, or the premium oil being more stable for longer while the 2-stroke mix is stored. Either way, we're getting off topic haha. We can start a new thread to go down that path if you'd like 
