Ok that would explain why the key way in the axle is flogged out as well. I needed to clean it up a fare bit for the key to sit in place properly. As soon as I get the chance to get some jumper leads I will give it a go
Jaredwhat I was thinking is if you can get the key to sort of fit in the axle and then wrap it with the strip of coke can, somehow hold it tight and then with a cold chisel tap on each side of the key and you might be able to square it up enough to hold the key in place while you get the wheel back onto the axle. Then you need to make sure that you can get the wheel tightened up nice and tight so that it can't move at all. Any movement will cause it to quickly chew the coke shim out
Hi Nath, apparently he has a key he was trying to start it with the key but it wouldn't turn over and I can only assume he was using the ignition wires because he had no battery leads
Hi Nath and Norm the ignition I don't have a proper key for however the ignition switch only pushes in to crank the engine over. I tested it multiple times. I don't think I have been using heavy enough cable. I have found some heavier cable now so I will see if that makes a difference.
With regards to the wheel I will try the coke can shim however the hole that is in the rim is located directly where the key sits so there's no meet in the rim to hold the key in place at all. As soon as I tighten the wheel up the key falls straight out. Will still try and see how it works if I can get it sitting in tight enough
Playing around with it just now I have found that there is a dead short between the positive section of the starter motor and the chassis. Is there supposed to be rubber inserts somewhere to insulate the starter from the rest of the body? Possibly another bit that I haven't got in the box of parts?
Jared another option is to weld the key onto the axle, or weld the sides of the keyway up and then file it back so the key fits nicely. All these things can be done just depends on what works best for you. Ok so this push button switch you have, does it only have 2 light wires coming out of it or does it have 2 nuts on it that the battery cables connect to. Starter motor bolts directly to the body, no insulation. What makes you think the starter is shorting out? Another alternative for the wheel might be to get a piece of thin wall 1" inch tube, slot it down the middle so you can roll it into a taper that will fit snug on the axle taper then cut/file a section out so you can hold the key in position so you can get the wheel tightened up. Plenty of ways to fix it just depends on what you can do and what tools you have available
Ok I will try it all and see what works better. With regards to the starter. I put my multimeter on it and compared it to an old generator starter that I have. Sorry bout seeming a bit clueless but it's the first time I've had to do with this side of things so learning as I'm going.
The switch only has 2 cables coming out of it which I believe connects to the battery solenoid and then the start I've removed the cables and other brackets at present until I can get it to crank over properly so I don't have to keep taking things of and on hopefully the vid shows what's happening when I short the starter hope this helps
Ok so that looks like a battery isolation switch to me, it would do in place of a solonoid but not the best idea Do you have the key for it? I can't see the vid so I can't see what is happening. What cables have you removed at the moment? Without battery leads or jumper leads there is not much you can do at the moment
There is no key that was with it but I managed to find a key that works temporarily. I do have battery leads that I found around the place. I have tried connecting it all up. On its own the starter motor runs perfectly, although a little noisy. When attached to the side of the engine as soon as it starts it engages with the motor and just stalls. Doesn't do anything else. If I leave it to long it gets really hot sorry the vid doesn't work
Sorry Jared, I can't help you with what starter motors will fit. Not sure if other HP Briggs motors will fit. I would be reluctant to throw more money at it because that motor is a complete unknown. I'm not sure if you could drill start it either, probably would but I can't guarantee it I have just looked them up and it looks like the starters fit several motors. You would need to discuss it with them before you bought one. As I said I hate the thought of throwing money at something like this when you have no idea what condition the motor is in. /www.ebay.com.au/itm/Briggs-and-Stratton-Starter-Motor-5-16HP-for-Vertical-Shaft-Lawn-Mower-Engine/171002453071?
Jared, that engine is fitted with pull start as well as electric start. If it were mine I wouldn't be worrying about the electric start. I'd just be using the pull start.
I'm not a fan of Norm's repair suggestions for the wheel. If it is to be repaired it needs to be done properly. Your a machinist, what do you think of the idea of trying to cut a new keyway 180 degrees from the current one? If it were mine I'd try turning up a plug that fits neatly on the parallel section of the axle hole and run a drill down on a drill press to start the keyway then neatly hand file to finish or even carefully scrape the keyway out on a lathe. Would be a fiddle job but I reckon it would work.
Can't help with the sprocket as I used both my spares on the zero turn. My own Tractor 8 is fitted with a generic 10 tooth sprocket bought from an engineering supply place years before I had a parts collection.
Hi thanks for that it does have a pull start so will check the condition of motor using that. I was trying to restore it as original as possible but I believe the motor might have been changed at some stage as it is. Was thinking bout doing a key way 180 degrees I just don't have the access to a drill press or lathe at this stage till I return back to work from the holidays. but was thinking bout possibly sleeving it as a temp fix. All 4 tyres are perished at the moment so just need a temp fix to make sure the drive train works correctly at first then can correct the fiddle bits properly at a later stage
Hi all just wondering if anyone has a wheel they are willing to sell for a greenfield tractor 11? Or know where I can source one from I have been looking for quite a while now and have had no luck what so ever. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for you time. Details are in the pics
Hey people just wondering I managed to get a 10 tooth sprocket for my greenfield tractor 11 but it seems very small. The shaft size is right just wondering if anyone knows what the outer diameter is supposed to be. It says on the pack 5/8†but looks very small. Thanks
