Hi there, I'm a new user after some help and much needed guidance.
I have recently been given a Greenfield tractor 11 28" model. I have been given it in pieces and am currently trying to overhaul it. I have done some research and found out that most parts cannot not be brought now. I have managed to get my hands on the parts manual for it but it doesn't give much insight as to how it all goes together. Not to mention I'm not sure if I have been given all of the parts or not yet. I have got as far as working out the clutch. And now I'm stuck and I have a frame with wheels and the clutch installed and I have a bucket full of loose parts I can't work out. Can anybody offer some suggestions or know the best way of working out the rest of the parts. Any suggestions would be really helpful.
Regards
Hi Jared, welcome here where we try to help. Is the machine assembled to in as the pic is, if so looks like it is only the cutting deck that is missing. If that is the case then if you put up some pics of the parts you have then hopefully we can identify them and where they go.
G'day Jared,
As Norm says photos of the remaining bits will help heaps. If you have everything hopefully it shouldn't be real difficult to get this old girl back on the road.
Cheers,
hey thank you. I have got the cutter deck and replaced the bearings and cleaned and painted. Unfortunately the thread on the pulley was severely damaged. I have been able to modify it. Hopefully it works just not sure until the rest of it is up and running. However, I have got the pictures of where I'm up to at the moment. Hopefully these pictures show clear enough. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help. If anyone needs individual photos of each of the parts let me know.
regards
G'day Jared,
Is that absolutely all the parts you have left? If so you might be short a few. Not to worry though as I know a bloke.......
I think the best way to start this process is if I take a bunch of detail,photos of mine and try to show you where things go. Unfortunately I'm probably not going to be able to do this until the weekend.
In the meantime can I trouble you for more detailed photos of the machine as it is to get a better idea of what is already on it and assembled and also photos of all the remaining parts?
I notice too that the drive belt tensioner bracket is upside down. Don't stress about it as it'll probably be easier to assemble the tensioner with it out.
If you can wait until the weekend please and then we can get down and dirty with this project.
Cheers,
Now this one is going to be tough.
Yeah that�s no worries. Thanks for your help. In the meantime I�ll try and take as many photos as I can so that you can see where it is at for the time being.
Regards
G'day Jared and Norm,
Nah, not tough Norm, just needs to be one step at a time.
I think there's a song that goes like that.
Cheers,
Hi PRD,
Looks like I will have to pull the deck off my Anniversary and turn it up on its side so I can work out which bit goes where
G'day Norm,
There's a fair bit of a difference between the Tractors and the Anniversaries when it comes to the deck and cutter belt arrangement. I was planning to use my Tractor 8 and the collection of wrecks ( ahem, part collection
) as photo subjects.
Cheers,
I chopped up and sold off my Tractor a while back. My Anniversary has the alloy cowl on the front of the bonnet so there is a bit of crossover there. I noticed on Gumtree where a bloke not far from me has 6 Greenfields for sale. Looks a bit of a mess though and the price he wants is a bit high but as we know with the factory gone parts are going to become a bit hard to find. I don't have the room to get them to wreck for parts to help people out.
Ok Jared, just so we can understand where you are up to, is the drive side of it complete? If that is the case you are looking at mounting the cutter deck and connecting that up?
and the last. I still haven't worked out if I have bitten of more than I can chew yet. If there are a few parts missing. With the factory out noiw what do you think the chance are of getting the parts that are required?
regards
Hi Jared, the factory stopped supplying parts for these a few years ago so the closure has no bearing on it, still plenty of Tractors out there to scavenge parts from. Plenty of people restore the very early Tractors and they are much harder to find bits for and with you being in QLD that is where the majority of Greenfields seem to be. I would say prd is going to be able to help you more than I can because I don't have a tractor to reference all the bits you have disassembled there. It is probably worth your while to hunt down another Tractor so you can see where all the bits go and then you also have a pile of parts you can use if needed.
G'day Jared and Norm,
Jared, to quote the "large friendly letters" on the front of the Hitchhikers guide to the Galaxy:
DON'T PANIC!!
I don't think you've bitten off more that you can chew. This is well do-able. I suspect there might be a few bits missing but we can work that out, I've got a fair collection of bits we can raid and as Norm says there is always wrecks coming up on gumbay. At this stage I can't see anything that you need for the frame that I haven't got here. A bit of postage and the problem is solved
I'll digest the photos tonight and we'll work out a plan. I reckon we might start with making sure the drive (transmission) is right and then we'll have a look at the deck and finally the engine.
This process might take a while- a few weeks but at the end you'll have a working example of the best model they ever made and the forum will have a 'how to' thread that may be of value to others in the future.
Cheers,
Ok thank you. I�m not sure if the drive is completed yet or not. I�m hoping I�m not missing too many parts but see how things go. You guys have reinstalled my faith that it might be mowing again one day. Thanks for your help.
Regards
Jared, sorry for taking so long to reply,
Firstly, I don't know what you mechanical background or ability is. I'll assume it to be middle-of-the-road and we can adjust to suit you as we go.
We might start by discussing the drive starting at the engine and following the belt back to the drives themselves.
All good at the engine judging from the photo. The drive belt should be in the top pulley groove - and it is. Did you assemble the pulley onto the engine or was it already there when you bought the machine? If it was already there, I'd put a spanner on the bolt that secures it and just confirm it's tight and not just sitting there loose. There should be a guard mounted around the cutter belt at this pulley. Don't worry about this for the moment. The cutter belt needs to go on first and I can see the guard in you collection of bits.
Moving to the idler pulleys, I'm wondering if you've got the correct pullies fitted. The photos aren't too clear but they look to be too large in diameter and the belt looks like it might be rubbing the steering shaft? These pullies should be flat and not 'v' shaped in the sheave. I think the two new looking pullies in your photos are the ones you need.
Photo below shows the pullies you need and show the flat groove that the back of the belt rides on. (Note the bracket in my photo is normally welded to the machine- I removed it with an angle grinder
)
The belt tensioner.
Your first photo of the machine shows the tensioner bracket mounted upside down and the tensioner assembly is still in your collection of bits. Below is a rough out of what we're looking for. Note also from my photo that you're missing the little spring plates and attach bolt (I've got them clamped with a zip tie in my photo. Have you got these spring plates in your collection? If not I'll send you some.
We need these spring plates fitted to be able to continue with assembling the tensioner. Also, we are going to need to find out if you have the stepped bush that needs to be in the slot of the tensioner arm to allow it to slide. Probably best if I draw you a sketch.
More to follow......
Hey thank you for that. I am a fitter and turner by trade so I have a fare bit of mechanical exposure. I have never had anything to do with ride on mowers. So this is a new experience for me. I have changed the pulleys like suggested. However, I noticed in your pic that there are springs on the inside of the pulleys. I only have the one spring that looks to be the same size. Are these common springs that I can get from a mower shop and is there more parts behind the pulleys?
Hi I don�t think I do have the spring plates and bolt. The closest thing I have to what I can see in the photo is these
G'day Jared,
Excellent! You've got a trade background so we can move through this a bit more quickly.
The spring plates could be made as they are just literally bits of spring with a bolt hole but honestly it's probably just easier if I post you some. The bolt is just a common 1/4" bolt but I can send that too.
Good question with regard the springs on the idler pulley mount. To be honest I can't remember if there are washer etc in the mounting setup. I'll take apart the one in the photo and send you the springs and anything else that might be in the setup.
I've done a quick sketch of how the tensioner goes together. The key to its function is that the large coil spring pulls tension onto the belt and the spring plates we are discussing lock into ratchet grooves in the arm so that the pulley is locked forward once it has been pushed there by the coil spring. The ratchet mechanism has to work or you'll get belt slip.
Handling the tensioner with that coil spring can be a bit like playing with a rat trap. There is a hole in the arm with the idea that you can compress the spring and put a nail or the like in the hole to keep the spring locked compressed while you install it and set it up. Personally I never use it. I lock the spring plates away from the arm with a zip tie like I've done in the photo just wrestle it all into place
Have you got the small stepped bush?
Had to muck about a bit to get the sketch to upload.
Send me a PM and I can get these bits to you.
I'll try and get some photos etc organised during the week and we can move onto other parts of the machine and hopefully we can get this machine sorted for you fairly quickly. That said, my weeks tend to develop of their own accord and I can't ever know how long the days will be. We can but try.
I do have the bush that is pressed into the bearing and pulley but I haven�t got the small bush that sits in the slot on the top bracket. Is the smaller bush supposed to sit inside the slot?
Yup, it sits in the slot and allows the pulley and arm to slide when it's all bolted up.
I tried to find one this afternoon to photograph but couldn't find one! I should have half a dozen!
Do you have a lathe? If not I can turn one up for you.
I can get access to a lathe at work so that one should be ok. Thank you. I actually have an old bush from one Of the pulleys I replaced. I should be able to machine that one down to fit in place
G'day Jared,
Umm, if you mean the bushes in the pulleys you originally had in the as the idlers PLEASE DON'T at this stage. I've got a sneaky suspicion those are the pulleys that go in the cutter clutch- and those bushes will be needed.
Dimensions for the bush we are talking about aren't super critical. From memory it's a 3/8" ID for the bolt ( please check) and the small outside diameter is the same as the slot, of course. Height of the small diameter is such that it's slightly more than the thickness of the material the slot is in - maybe a maximum of 1/16" more. Large diameter section needs only to have enough diameter and height such that it will give sufficient strength and bearing area. I'm surprised I can't lay my hands on one. I'll check again.
I'll send you a PM as I'm going to need an address to send these bits to
Ok no worries. I�ll take some measurements and and see how I go
Evening Jared,
I'm kinda struggling to se what you've done in the last couple of photos but the short answer is that there shouldn't be anything inside that little 'U' shaped bracket. It looks like you had it right in your earlier photos
There are two pieces nest together underneath - the bracket that attaches to the pushrod from the pedal and the arm with the 'thing' on the end that goes around the bearing in the middle of the clutch assembly. The slot in the forward side of the arm nests with the pin on the underside of the bracket.
It's one of those situations where if it works,it's right. Note also that there needs to be a lock nut on the pivot of this assembly. There is a nut welded to the frame that the pivot bolt goes into ( from underneath) but it needs a lock nut as well to stop the bolt migrating out with the constant movement that it is subjected to.
Sorry for the long explanation. I'll take photos for you in the morning. I was planning to post some more stuff in the morning as well.
Cheers,
Hey the clutch assembly is al sorted. Just wondering if the small pulleys with the springs you sent are supposed to move back and forth? If you need a better pic to double check everything is ok let me know. I think everything seems ok but see what you think.
Regards
Ok thank you for that I�ll try to take some better photos so you can see a bit better. Another question I have is I noticed that the belt I have is split. Do you know if this is a standard belt I can get from a bearing or mower place? And the pulley on top of the cutter deck with a left hand threaded bolt that is welded in place was damaged by the previous owner. I have managed to scotch key it with grub screws. I�m not quite sure how it will go until I get it running to test it. Is there anywhere that you know where I can get the bolt and pulley from if it doesn�t work? Thanks again for your help
Morning Jared,
Those LH threads are always super tough to undo. If you're repair doesn't work, I know where to find a replacement.
Belts are standard from a bearing shop. Kevlar ones by preference. Let me get back to,you on size numbers- I'll have to dig them up. Or just take the old one to them.
The idler pullies should move laterally about an 1/8" , I think. There is a step on the shaft that limits it. Reality is that if the belt alignment is good then it's probably not a big problem.
From your last photos I've noticed the bracket is positioned slightly wrongly. It should be on top at the front and under at the back. Note also bolt from underneath. Front bolt needs to finish flush and the back one is super long to pick up the seat mounting at a later date. Bolt orientation and the short bolt at the front are so the cowling will sit down into place
Might have a bit of a quick look at the axle mounting. You've shown a photo of a little plate with a slot in it. There should be two of these. They go on the adjustable side of the rear axle bearing mounts. They give extra friction/support to help prevent the axle bearing flanges slipping in the adjustment slot. The reason for the axle adjustment is so the chain can be tensioned. Note that the axle needs to be adjusted evenly to keep chain alignment.
This is a bit out of sequence really. You won't need to do this until the chain is on. I'm just mentioning it here because we are looking at the drive train and I just happened to notice them in your photos
Cutter clutch:
I hoping the photos will speak for themselves. The arm in the centre is to pick up on the cutter brake at a later date.
Also, apologies for all the dust and hay on all the items I have photographed and the dust on the bits I sent you. Like most of the state we haven't seen rain for a bit and a lot of my stuff shares space with the daughters horses. Much of it is stored in one of the disused stables.
Ok I�ve fixed up the bracket on the top for the clutch drive. I have 2 spacers for the bearings in the pulleys. Do they fit in the cutter clutch pulleys that are shown in your picture?
By the way it�s all good about the dust and everything. Just wondering i have put the pulleys and inserts on the bracket but it�s a bit hard to tell where it goes in your photo for the cutter clutch
Yep cutter clutch pulley bushes go against the belt guard. It looks like you have it right. I think it's another one of those situations where if it works it's right.
Couple of things on the cutter deck. I'll take a couple of photos for you.
I get the feeling you're keen to get this sorted. I'll try to be as quick as I can
Cheers,
Haha cheers mate don�t stress about the time frame. It�s been a project I�ve been working on for a long time now. I even spoke to the greenfield company in Brisbane a little while ago and they couldn�t help me at all except give me a parts diagram that make no sense at all. I think I�m just a bit excited that it might be going again soon.
Morning Jared,
I have tried to take some photos. Apologies once again for the quality. The light in that part of the shed is horrible and the deck I was photographing is tucked away under other things.
It looks like you have the cutter brake sorted. This will be attached to the cutter clutch at a later date with a piece of wire - literally.
The bracket just forward of it needs the 'u' shaped belt keepers bolted on each side once the belt is on. I'd probably slip the belt over the pulley at this stage. I only noticed one of those 'u' shaped brackets in your collection. Do you have the second one?
Also, there should be a cranked (bent) bolt at the front of the pulley to also act as a belt keeper. Note that once the belt is on it gets rotated 180 degrees from how it is in my photo. This bolt has to be there.
You also need the other mounting bracket that I noticed in the collection.
Ok thank you for that I�ve ran out of time today but I will have a look for the parts tomorrow arvo after work if that�s ok and will let you know
Hey mate. So I have had a look I assume the u shaped bracket is this one in the photo. That is the only one I have. And that bent bolt you were talking about I don�t have tha either. If I get the right size bolt is it easy enough to make one or is there a tolerance that it�s made to?
Yep that's the bracket. I guess it's something you could fabricate if you wanted to otherwise I can send one.
Similarly I can send you a cranked bolt or you can make one. Dimensions aren't super critical. Length is such that the head sits slightly higher that the pulley (by about a 1/4" or so). It's attached with two nuts- one above the deck and one below. Probably should be a spring washer under each nut as well. You want a minimum of excess thread sticking through on the underside of the deck when you're finished, of course. Bolt diameter is 3/8", I think but confirm with the size of the hole in the deck. Crank in the bolt is such that it will prevent the belt coming out of the pulley when the cutter clutch is disengaged.
Also, in your collection of bits you have a piece of flat bar 1" wide and about 10 or 12 inches long with a fairly big hole in each end. You need 4 of these. These are the bars that form the parallelogram ( one on each side ) that support the deck. The large holes in the bars (1/2" or 9/16" diameter) are bushed with loose bushes with an ID the size of the studs in the deck mount brackets. I guess these are 3/8". Bushes are slightly thicker than the thickness of the bars such that the nuts can be nipped down firmly and still allow the bars to pivot. There should be wave washers here too but to be honest I don't think they do a great deal and I'd be happy to leave them out.
Photo coming.
Cheers,
Ok no worries when I get the chance hopefully tomorrow I�ll collect a few things and fabricate the parts needed and see how I go. I might be able to get most of it done over the weekend but might need to wait till next week to get the lathe at work to make the bushes. Thanks again
Photos as promised
Ok I�ll see how I go this weekend thank you
Evening Jared,
Ummm,
I need to make a correction. I said earlier that you need 4 bars to make the deck lifting mechanism. You do. What I didn't mention was that the top one on each side has an extra bit welded onto it. If you look at the photos above you can see that the top arms have a lug that attaches to the height adjust chain ( that we'll talk about soon).
I've attached photos. Note the hole in the lug is slotted. It's used to make minor adjustments to the deck rigging so it sits true.
Apologies Jared. This is what comes of trying to work from memory with a couple of ales under ones belt
you are in good hand's Jared,
Yes I believe I am thank you. Ok I ran a bit behind on time today but I have started making the extra brackets that I need. I will make the extra bits required. I will try and make the extra u shaped bracket first in the morning I'm not entirely sure whether it will work out yet or not. Will see how I go. Thanks again
G'day again Jared and gml,
Just a couple of quick photos detailing the attachment of the top deck bar lugs to the height adjust mechanism. Attachment is via a small chain link. Total length of the chain is about 3". The chain allows the deck to ride over rough ground. Attachment of the chain is simply a bolt of sufficient length such that the chain can move freely and the lug on the bar is clamped. Note the outer nut is nyloc and the inner one plain and they have a washer under the nyloc nut.
I've been doing a pretty serious shed clean this weekend and have been constantly walking past one of my wrecks in particular and noticed/remembered that the cutter clutch mounting to the frame is also bushed. I didn't mention this last weekend when we were discussing the cutter clutch. Usual story, bush OD and ID to suit the hole and bolt and slightly thicker than the lug so the bolt can be snugged down while still allowing the mechanism to pivot freely.
Apologies for this. If you'd like me to post you some or all of these bits rather than you making them I'm more than happy to.
First two photos show the deck attach. Disregard the long bolt through the chain. This is someone's idea of a 'repair'. Third photo is trying o show the bush in the cutter clutch mount lug.
Ok no worries I just bout ran out of time this weekend typical of trying to get it all done and getting interrupted by the kids haha. I have managed to make the brackets required photos are shown. I hope they will work. My only qualm is the bent bolt. Is there a chance you could send me that or if it's easier to take a few more photos if it so I can see the alignment of it in relation to the pulley. Also is there one bend or 2? In regards to the bushes I will hopefully manage to get them done tomorrow at work if not I will let you know. Thanks again
Also I was meaning to ask. The bushes that are in the straight brackets. Are they press fit or loose and snug?
Ah, yes! I remember those days not so long ago. Getting nothing done on weekend chasing around after kids! The passing of those days is bitter-sweet. I've got my time back and that's great but I miss it too, for sure.
Brackets look great! I can send a bent bolt no worries.
All the bushes we are talking about are a loose fit. The pivot/movements is between the outside diameter of the bush and the bracket. The bolt is done up firmly so the bush is clamped to the bolt- hence the need for the bush to be slightly thicker than the bracket it goes into.
Cheers,
Yeah still waiting for that to end haha. The kids keep you young at heart though can't blame them for what they need/want.
I'll see how things go this couple of days with work. I should hopefully get the bushes machined up and get ready for the next section. Thanks
Hey how's your day been? I have managed to make the bushes needed for the brackets. One thing I have noticed on the cutter deck is there supposed to be 2 brackets attached to the cutter deck as shown in the pic? If so I'm going to either have to get that or fabricate another one as well. I'm assuming that the cutter deck is attached the same on both sides of the body?
G'day Jared,
Ah! Nut on wheels!!
You're right. You need another one. Sorry Jared. For some reason I thought I saw the other one in your collection of bits but I've just looked again and it's not there. I'll get a bracket and the bent bolt in the post tomorrow so you'll hopefully have it for the weekend.
Again, Apologies.
Today was pretty good, but that usually means it's just the calm before the storm.
Hope your day was good too.
Cheers,
Haha thanks for that. It's all good. Hopefully the storm after the calm isn't too bad
G'day Jared,
I think you've just got the clutch in the disengaged position. In this position the belts do go very slack. Below are photos of the clutch in both the engaged and disengaged positions. Note there is a lot of travel.
We haven't discussed connecting the clutch lever mechanism. It's just an over-centre arreangement with a spring to apply pressure. I'm not sure if I saw the spring in your collection- I don't think so. Any firm spring of the right dimensions. Bunnings has a good range. Note my v bodgy 'spacers' behind my spring. I think I put them there as a teenager when I was struggling with belt slippage. There are twohole positions for the eyebolt on your machine and three on mine. I've never seen any use for the other holes on mine. Yours is on the bottom one too. The bottom one gives maximum travel. Conversely the top one will give least travel but best mechanical advantage. It also allows the arm to overcentre more but excess over centreing just reduces belt tension. Leave it in the bottom hole and see how you go.
You need to hook up the cutter brake wire at this point . The wire is still on your cutter clutch assembly. There should be a bolt with couple of links of chain (same as the height adjust) on the brake arm on the deck. Connect this to the wire. Probably best to get another piece of wire. It's just wire
. I'll take a photo tonight.
Also, did you end up putting the bushes in the cutter clutch pivot points that we were talking about?
Ok no worries I'll see how I go thank you
Yes I put the bushes in. The nuts are tight and there�s still movement in the brackets that allow it to pivot. With regards to the engaging lever. Is there supposed to be another bush in the arm in front of the spring? The hole seems quite big and sloppy for the arm and spring. If not I�ll get a spring and some big washers as well.
Another thing I was going to ask. A little of topic from where we are up to but I noticed the rear wheel has major cracking where the key goes on the drive wheel. And the tyres are in pretty bad shape. Are they standard tyres that I can get from a mower shop and is the wheel standard or a specific make due to the taper on the rear axle?
Also the small drive sprocket. Is it a standard 10 or 9 tooth sprocket?
These last bits I�m not overalls worried about at the moment. However when the rest of it goes together I won�t be able to properly test until I fix it. So mainly for future reference when the rest of it is sorted
G'day again Jared,
Well, we are all learning in this world. On the strength of your question about the size of the hole in the eyebolt I just had a stooge round my collection and a look-see at the parts dogalogue and discovered there was an earlier clutch arrangement with the spring above the over-centre rod. The spring picked up the top hole in the clutch arm so that accounts for at least one of the extra holes. Also, the eyebolt in the earlier version had a nylon bush in the eyebolt. On the later one ( which is the one we are talking about), the eyebolt hole appears to remain the same large diameter but without the nylon bush. Illustration 1 and Illusration 9 of the parts list shows this. In short, rock on!
.
Make sure the eyebolt can pivot in the arm.
My own machine has a sprocket that was bought at an engineering supplier. If I recall it's standard sprocket but they couldn't get one with the keyway so cut one for me. It was a long time ago and way before I started my collection of parts donors. It's a 10 tooth sprocket. If you can't get one I can have a dig around but in my wander 'round the shed just now I didn't notice any- which is surprising.
Wheel and axle hassles are a common theme unfortunately. I am a bit curious as the photo of the wheel doesn't look like any Greenfield wheel I've seen. Can we have a photo of the other side please?
I can help with a wheel.
The early wheels with the taper seem to have been a hassle and can certainly present challenges when trying to remove the wheel. That said, my own daily drive has this style of wheel and has never given an ounce of trouble. Later on they went to the wheel with the three bolt mounting which is much easier to remove but the mounting adapters do crack.
Tyres and tubes are standard items and can be procured from many places including the good folks at the ODK shop.
Cheers,
Morning Jared,
Go back through have a look at the photos that you posted in the very beginning of your parts collection. They show the cutter clutch frame with a piece of wire attached to the centre arm. Note the attachment is via a couple of chain links. Attach this wire (or a fresh piece of the correct size to the arm on the cutter brake in the photo above. Again this is attached via a couple of chain links. Just copy the other end.
Can I get you to tell me the rear tyre size please?
Cheers,
I noticed a couple of things in the last batch of photos:
You need a bolt through the front of the height adjust ratchet
There is a nylon bush missing from the steering arm. These are supposed to be a press fit into the frame think but they come loose and do fall out.
Your attachment of the chain links is slightly different. The photos below show how it was originally fitted. This allows the top and bottom chain links to pivot freely
Cheers,
Ok no worries I�ll have a look tonight when I get home. And I�ll let you know the tyre size as well. Thank you
Ok so the rear tyre size is 15x6.00-6
The rest of the adjustments I will work on tomorrow cos I ran out of time today. The other thing is this the steering arm with the bush you were talking about? If so there is a nylon bush in it that I machined up. Looking at it now I do believe I put it in back to front
Mmmm, so it is a 6" rim. It looked like it in the photo and that's why I asked. The Tractor 11 ran an 8" rim (6.50x8 tyre). It was the Tractor 8's like my old girl that ran the 6" rim.
To try and shed some light on this puzzle, can you tell me what the front tyre size is?
It is a Tractor 11 and not a Tractor 8?
If you've got the nylon bush in there, happy days! I don't think it matters a great deal which way round it goes. Perhaps just keep an eye on them as they do want to migrate out. If they do something as simple as a worm drive clamp or a split pin solves the problem.
Have a good weekend!
Cheers,
The front tyres are 11x5.00-5. I do believe it is a tractor 11 however not 100% sure I got it given to me in pieces. Now that I think of it I actually spoke to someone from green field themselves in Brisbane that I emailed a picture of it to and they told me it was an 11. But there is nothing that says on it which one it is. The only stickers is what is in the photo
Morning Jared,
It's got 5" front wheels like my Tractor 8. The Tractor 11's had a 6" front wheel.
Something else I noticed is that your frame doesn't have the 'running boards' behind the pedals. These were on the 11's but not on the 8's, I think. Photos below of two of my Tractor 11 donors showing this.
In short it appears to be a Tractor 8 frame. However, the engine is 11HP (400cc). Possibly it has been re- engined? Might be interesting to get the model,type and code off the engine one day.
All this is just a distraction really. It doesn't really matter. The only way it's of any importance is that you need a 6" rear wheel and not the 8". I'll have a dig around. Not sure if I have one as I haven't parted out any Tractor 8's
How did I you get on this weekend?
Morning Jared,
All looks pretty good!
Just confirm that with the cutter clutch in the wire pulls the brake off the deck pulley but a nice amount. I can't tell from the photos properly.
Yes I think you will need to space that spring- but as you say give it a try first.
About the only thing left on the frame for the moment is to put the engine belt guard on. I'd leave all the cowling and covers off until the very end.
I guess that means we look at the engine. Some nice detail photos of the engine and the rest of the bits that are left over please.
Cheers,
P.S. Quite the opposite, yours is quite a late model frame
Ok no worries. Yes the brake lever come of the pulley a fair amount. Now when it comes to the motor and starter I will get you the photos this arvo when I get home. However do you by chance have a wiring diagram for it. I have noticed I have a started motor and batteries but there is no wiring at all so I am going to have to make a wiring harness for it
Morning Jared,
Yesterday was a pretty good day. Hope yours was too.
Another series of questions:
Do you know the history of why the engine was dismantled by the previous owner? It's just handy to know the history.
Do you have any or all of the little bits - e.g. The bolts for the cowl, carb, etc. and the springs and link for the carb?
And a bit off topic, can you photograph the start solenoid and ignition switch please (especially the back) so we can draw you up a wiring diagram for the loom.
It's been a while since I last played with a Briggs but �m sure it'll come back to me
. And if I stumble the folks on this forum with proper Briggs knowledge will help out I'm sure.
I'll post more tonight
Cheers,
prd, I am always nervous when I see a project like this in a million bits and then you look at the motor and that has also been apart.Why? what then makes me nervous is the fact you have no idea as to the skill level of who had it apart. I would bench run it before going to the trouble of fitting it back into the mower
Not overly sure of the history. I know the original owner had it running perfectly and used to mow his lawn constantly with it. One day he had come home and another guy that was living with him had it pulled to pieces. He wasn�t impressed. After that he was going to dump it cos it had been sitting there for so long in pieces and the guy who pulled it apart took of with a lot of it and he never saw him again. Poor guy wasn�t happy. Unfortunately that�s the only history I know of it.
I have had the end cover off the engine to have a look at the pistons and it still looks brand new like it has never ran a day in its life just sitting in the weather.
The pictures below are of the ignition I assume and there is no key for it either which might pose a little problem especially trying to keep it genuine.
With regards to your other questions. I have a feeling this might be a slow haul. I only have a few of the bolts. The springs are the only ones in the pictures above. I have checked the starter motor by dead shorting it and it kicked straight away. So I know that will start. Just not to sure what parts are still missing. Sorry a bit of a tough one with an engine
Yep, no worries Jared.
The bloke who pulled it apart broke the cardinal rule! If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Norm is right, it's a bit disconcerting when part of a restoration or rebuild is partly finished by persons unknown and that's why I was asking about the history. But it's what we have to work with and for a few dollars to sort out the missing bits it's well worth the effort to give this a shot. The only other option is to tear the bottom end down again! Not really an option.
You're right, this could be a bit of a long haul but I'm well up for it!
I think we take this in stages:
First let's get the pull start and cowl mounted and confirm it turns over freely and shows signs of compression. Also, we'll confirm it is giving spark. Then we move onto the carb and other stuff.
Wadda reckon
I'll post more before the weekend.
Cheers,
P.S. If AVB and other folks with good Briggs knowledge would like to help here, please do.
P.P.S Norm, the engine is already on the ship. That horse is gone!
I�m in agreeable with you both. I don�t see why he pulled it apart in the first place. I do believe the motor is in good enough condition to get going again. When I checked the inside of the engine when I first received it I also checked the pistons and bore. They are all in good condition. I�m keen to give it a go maybe one step at a time. When I get the chance I�ll put the pull start on and check the spark plug. And we can go from there if all good. I will let you know when I have had the chance to do this and see where we go from there.
Fingers crossed 🤞 it won�t be to much trouble
Hi
So at a glance, it looks like the sump and head have been off judging by the red gasket goo, that is fine on the sump/crankcase cover but I hate seeing it on a head gasket. If it was mine i would see if it has compression, if it is good i would be pulling it off and cleaning it up with a new gasket. they are easy and cheap from you're nearest mower store.
I would also just check the Cam timing, just to be sure, otherwise these engines are very simple. i would recommend a new gasket between carburettor &block. It appears you have the governor spring (very important), and before you try and start it make sure to adjust the governor. I cant see the throttle & choke linkages. if you dont have them you should be able to find them at you're local briggs dealer 2nd hand.
otherwise it has electronic ignition, just make sure you have the kill wire on it
P.S. these engines only have 1 Piston
Ok thanks nath I�ll check that and see how it all is. Hopefully can get some parts for this weekend and have a ply with it
G'day Jared and nath,
Cheers nath!, we might need your help as we go along here. Stick around
.
Jared, because we're doing this via remote control we'll start out slow and ramp up as we both find our feet here. Please forgive me if I'm going too slow.
Firstly, when trying to buy bits always take the Model,type,code number with you. The Briggs computerised parts system is entirely based on it.
If you're going to replace the head gasket, now is the time to do it. Clean off all old gasket material first. I'm keen on the idea of torquing down the head if you have an INCH- pound torque wrench (NOT foot-pounds). That is, of course unless you have a 'calibrated' elbow
I'll look up the torque figure for you.
Something else I'd also do at this time is try and work a little engine oil (just a few drop into the 'square' shaft on the top the flywheel. There is a tiny hole in the top of it. The oil is needed in there. A syringe with a needle is ideal if you have one. They can be obtained from animal feed and produce outlets. If you don't have one, just work a few drops in as best you can. The back story is there is a bush in there and an oiler felt. If this dries out the engine squeals like a kid that's dropped its ice block.
From there the gauze goes on the top of the flywheel. It's secured to the free-wheel device by 4 screws/bolts. If you can get these new when you get the head gasket, all the better. If not I'll get back to you with details on what you need. Something tells me they are a pk style screw but something else tells me it's an 8/32 screw or the like. I can remember! Long time, no Briggs
From there pop the cowl on. We'll assume the pull start is assembled and working unless you want to flip it over and photograph the underneath. It's secured with little 1/4 or 3/16 unc bolts. Again, buy new if you can otherwise I can confirm it for you.
Make sure the HT lead I'd positioned correctly and also the cut-off wire ('p' lead). Ensure the 'p' lead can't chaffe or foul.
From here we can check for spark and compression.
Please let me know if we need to speed this up. Also, the way we are doing this step by step there is going to be several trips to the shop to get bits. I still,think it's the best way.
Having said that you can get a carb gasket and the attach bolts now so you have them ready..
Cheers,
P.S. Just to confirm, I could speak with some confidence when it came to building up the frame. Now that we are at the engine stage I'm working from more distant recollections and somewhat less experience though I've had a few part in my time. That said, if we take this one step at a time we'll get there
. And if I stumble there are good folks out there who can help.
Ok all good. Slow steps are good. I managed to score the day of work today so was hoping I would do what I could today. Unfortunately I�m waiting for my pay to come in so I can go down to the Briggs distributor near home to get what I need. I have managed to sort out the head gasket and get the gauze in place. I have checked compression which is good and I have checked spark but have none. So I will get a spark plug on my travels when I get the carby gasket and such. Forgive my innocence or ignorance which ever you prefer 😁 the HT lead and p lead. Are these the ones your talking about that in the photo? The spark plug lead and the single wire that comes of the solenoid?
Also the solenoid I�ve shown in the picture doesn�t look to healthy. Is it ok or needs changing? Or is there a way of testing it?
Hi Jared, I think you are talking about the coil, the single wire is the kill switch wire. If you can spin the motor over while holding the plug steel section onto the motor and see if you get any spark. If not try a bit if rod inside the plug cap and repeat the spinning procedure and see if you get a spark jump onto the head, if no spark you then have to look at the coil. You will need to undo it and make sure the surfaces where it bolts on are clean, then reset the air gap on it with the flywheel turned around so that the magnets on the flywheel grab the legs on the coil, pull one leg away from the magnet and put a feeler gauge (stanley knife blade will be good enough for this test) then do the same with the other leg and then you can tighten the coil holding studs up. remove the feeler gauges and then you can repeat the earlier tests regarding the spinning the motor with a bit of rod sticking out of the plug cap. Make sure the kill switch wire is not touching the motor as this will kill the spark.After spinning it with the rod out of the plug cap and you have no sign of spark you will need to find another coil. You may find this was the reason this whole mower was pulled apart in the first place because it wouldn't run. People do strange things at times
Yup, what Norm said
The 'p' lead is the small kill wire. Its end needs to be well clear of the engine (ground) for testing and the insulation needs to be in good condition. This wire is grounded to 'kill' the engine.
A thin card (business card is another common suggestion for setting up the air gap between the coil frame and the flywheel magnet. Basically it needs to be as close as is sensibly possible to the flywheel without touching.
You're right, the coil doesn't look flash but that's not really an indicatior. It would definitely be worth making sure the earth of the coil to the engine and the wiring terminal under the bolt head is sound. A rub with sandpaper in the usual fashion
Cheers
Ok no worries I will do the test this morning and see how it goes. Thanks for your help
Hey how�s things?
So I went down to the local Briggs distributer today to see if I can get a list of parts for the engine. He told me that due to the age of the engine there might be a good chance I can�t get the parts I�m chasing. Not sure if it�s true or he wasn�t willing to help in that department. However he did sell me this engine instead which I can either get going or Ye parts of it. My engine being 8hp this one is actually 12 hp but the carby and setup and very similar either way it should be a big help with regards to getting my mower back running again. He did say that it runs but sounds a bit clunky
Hi
Being only an 84 vintage, short of something serious like a block, everything you might need will be available. I have sourced new parts for 70's models recently through my local dealer. Here is a link to the parts manual, direct from briggs australia
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/a...lSearch.html?searchrequested=252707-0658If you dont have spark I would suspect coil, as it is not the original one anyway. Being 84 briggs were long finished with points, and you're coil is an old points coil with a briggs Magnetron kit retrofitted. The one on youre 12hp should bolt straight on.
Just be aware the 12 is more different to you're 8 that it would seem. They are physically bigger, the carb i'm pretty sure is a bit different too. So things like the air filter housing probably wont just bolt on, unfortunately.
If it sounds clunky it could just be rings, or it may be more serious like a big end or (typically due to a lack of service) play in the synchros, which make the engine a write off.
G'day Folks,
Ummm, Jared, you're black engine is 11hp. 400cc. ?
I'm not missing something here am I nath?
Being 11hp, a good number of components off the red one should fit?
And thanks nath for the parts catalogue link.
. Learn something new every day!
Cheers,
Sorry my bad, somewhere I thought it was an 8 for some reason! Never mind then
It was probably me that caused the confusion. I was discussing earlier that it appears to be an 11hp engine in a Tractor 8 frame....
Ok thanks for the link and info. I�ll strip the red one down and see how it bolts together. If not I�ll see how the red one is mechanically and go from there. I�m hoping to keep the mower as original as possible however I know that the engine is not the original anyway but will see how it goes when I strip the parts of it
Jared, don't swap multiple parts all at one, establish you have spark and then look at the carby one step at a time
G'day Jared,
I can't say for absolute certain that that is not the original engine for that machine. It is of the correct vintage for your machine (I.e. Early to mid eighties). The point of confusion is that the frame appears to be a Tractor 8 frame. That said, the parts data I have (which is the same as that held by ODK) doesn't cover some of the mod status that is on your machine because your machine was produced after the catalogue I have was printed. A newer catalogue would be handy. Point is, Greenfield made changes all the time and I can't say for certain that this engine wasn't original on this machine....but if you asked me to bet a 50 dollar note on it I'd say it's not the original.
It's always difficult trying to figure out an approach when in a situation like this - two engines and both an unknown quantity. Perhaps a suggestion is to spend a few more hours working out if the black one might be a goer. If the coil is no good on the black one then check if the red one has spark. If it does, pop the coil from it into the black one and take it from there and build up the black one from the bits you have from it and the red one. What's the worst that can happen?
Whichever you decide to try to get going first, you need to have a plan and stick to it.
Take plenty of photos of anything you take apart.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Ok thank you. I�ll take it all one step at a time. I don�t have spark at the moment and the spark plug looks pretty bad so I�ll get a new spark plug and the check the spark and coil and go from there. I will take photos with each step and try to replicate how the motor is put together by copying the red one. Thanks for the help
Hey people sorry it's been a while since I've posted an update as to how things are going. Thanks for everyone's help once again. So I changed the spark plug still had no spark. So I have changed the coil as well and now I have spark. The coil did bolt straight on but the kill wire coming from the old black one was a bit different to the red one so I have had to use the governor plate I think it's called as well. I'm also using the carby from the re one as it seems to be in better condition. Just in the process of working out the situation of the governing arms and spring as I had none of these in my collection. It's deinately a job where you seem to need more then 2 hands hopefully it's works out. If anyone has any tricks of the trade to make it easier to handle or see anything wrong. Other then that I'm getting there slowly.
Thanks again
The only trick there really is probably to just make sure the control plate is bolted on before you put the carb on, these are probably one of the simpler engines; believe me, there are worse!
To set the govenor arm on the shaft, you will need everything bolted on, but loosen the little bolt that clamps the arm. then hold the arm to wide open throttle and twist the govenor shaft (that goes inside the block) the same way until it stops. then simply tighten the little bolt. It can be a bit fiddly, and when you first start it have the kill wire at the ready in case something went wrong.
So you can set them up depending on what they are going in. The kill wire just needs to go to ground. In older ride ons this was done through the throttle control, so you have choke-fast-slow-stop all in one.
Most modern rideons have stop through the ignition key, so instead of the kill wire going to the throttle control it will wire to a key or switch on the machine.
Ok that makes sense. So when I go to test the engine is it safe to say that if I take the wire out of the control plate and touch it against an earth it will cut the motor out. But having it the way it is at the moment requires a arch effectively? Sorry if I sound new at this. I haven't had much to do with Briggs motors. So far is this looking reasonably ok? I have adjuste the governor arm the way you said earlier.
Regards
Ps. Sorry it's dragging on a bit I haven't had much of a chance to do anything on it lately. Typical interruptions
Thanks again for the help
Hey happy Christmas everyone. Had a bit of time to spare todo some more work on my greenfield tractor 11. Hav become a bit stuck. Was wondering if anyone know where this wire from the engine is supposed to connect to?
Also when I went to test the engine the starter motor goes to engage then stalls. Does anyone know what might be the reason?
Any suggestion would be grateful thank you
Regards
Hi Jared, the wire is probably the alternator wire, don't worry about it at the moment, probably doesn't work anyway. As for the starter stalling, does the motor turn over by hand ? are the wires on the battery and to the starter motor and the earth wire to the frame good and tight so they have a good connection? are you testing it through the solonoid is this working ok? Are you trying to start it with the cutter deck engaged?
Ok. I haven't got a solenoid at the moment. Still trying to work out extra bits that I need. The only thing I did at the moment was connect the wires to the ignition switch and straight to the starter motor. With the starter motor on its own it seems to work fine. It only seems to be when it goes to engage with the motor. Yes the engine is very easy to turn by hand. I thought theee might be too much compression so took the spark plug out as well but still did the same thing.
Also is there supposed to be an alternator and a solenoid connected? If so is this easy enough to get for this model from a local mower shop?
Jared, don't worry about the alternator, too difficult to bother with. Why is there no solonoid, you won't start it without one using the ignition switch wires. Do you have the heavy negative wire from the battery to the motor or to the chassis somewhere or are you doing this with jumper leads? So you can test the starter motor you then need the heavy positive wire connected to the battery and with care you put the other end onto the starter motor bolt with the nut on it so you don't damage the thread. It will spark but this will tell you if the starter will crank the motor over. If you hold the wire on tight with a pair of pliers , if everything else is correct with the motor it should start, then release the wire from the starter, but be aware that the end of the wire is live so make sure it doesn't touch the body of the motor. Starter solonoids easy to pick up off ebay, I will have a look around for you.Scrolling back another thing I have just noticed in post number 93660 your coil is on upside down and will not work like that. Kill switch wire goes on the bottom side
There you go easy peasey I'm sure you are not in a hurry for it
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Solonoid-Soleno...iner-40-HP-Outboard-Engine/153007688909?
Ok thanks heaps for that I'll see how I go and will turn the coil up the right way. I'll get on now and get the solenoid. Thanks heaps for your help I will see how I go
Regards
Jared before you go and order the solonoid are you sure you don't have one in under the steering housing somewhere near the ignition switch?
No the mover was given to me in pieces. I have looked through everything and haven't got one in the parts. I believe the guy who pulled it apart must have taken it of
Ok so the next issue will be the battery leads, you will need 3. one from the negative on the battery to the chassis or the motor somewhere. second one from the battery positive to one side of the solonoid. Third one goes from the other side of the solonoid to the starter motor. I think you need to establish that this motor will crank over and start before going too far with these other bits. I'm not sure what you have but a set of jumper leads is the best way to get it running if it will
Jared if you are not sure of what you need to do just ask and we can walk you through it one bit at a time
Ok thank you. I have ordered the solenoid. But it says it won't be delivered till mid January to mid feb unfortunately I also need to shop around for some heavy duty cable. Other then the motor I need a 10 tooth sprocket and rear wheel. Do you have any idea where I might be able to locate them from? Especially the rear wheel since it locates on a taper on the rear axle?
What is wrong with the wheel, they can be very difficult to remove. As for the solonoid that won't stop you from getting the motor running, it just means that you will be able to start it with the key later. I'm not sure about the 10 tooth sprocket, it has probably been used on all the Greenies for many years so is probably available from any Greenfield dealer, just check that they are the same, I see no reason why they would have changed it on different models
Ok then the wheel is chopped out where where the key sit as shown in the photo. If I can't get a replacement I will have to find someone to can weld alloy to repair it
Congratulations, both wheels are off, on one I had to cut the axle out of the chassis so I could get it in the press to get it off, ended up taking me a couple of days. Next question is how are the threads on each end of the axle? I find most are usually damaged by people hammering them trying to get the wheel off. Wheels come up from time to time on ebay but not that often. You have a couple of options, depending on how much slop there is in the hub to the shaft, you could cut some strips from a coke can and wrap it around the shaft, then hammer in the key and force the wheel back on. As long as it is tight and there is no movement then it should be ok. The second idea is one I have never tried but wanted to and that is grease the hub up and let the wheel float on the axle giving you a single wheel drive which will vastly improve the steering. This would only be suitable if you are using it on flat ground as a single wheel drive may not get enough traction or braking on hilly ground but the braking on these is near useless anyway. The advantage is with the heel and toe you can use that for braking, but once again you would only be using one wheel for braking. Just thoughts throwing it out there
The threads are a little damaged but I believe they should be ok to use still. I will try both suggestions and see which one seems to work the best. Either way I can't test either idea till I get the solenoid so I can crank the engine over and see how the drive train etc. goes. Just the thought of what options I have for the future. Thanks for your help
Jared you don't have to wait for the solonoid, a set of jumper leads or one of those jump starter pack is all you need to get it fired up. Once the motor is running you can disconnect the leads, battery is only needed for starting. The threads are important because even though they don't take a lot of load they are needed to keep the hub tight on the taper, this is why you have one wheel flogged out, it was not held tight on the taper and was relying on the keyway to hold it and as it rocks back and forth, this is what causes the damage. You may need to get a die nut to clean the threads up again.
Morning All,
Welcome back Jared!
On the previous page there is a group of 5 photos. One of them is a solenoid.
I'll get back to you on the wheel
Cheers,
Ok that would explain why the key way in the axle is flogged out as well. I needed to clean it up a fare bit for the key to sit in place properly. As soon as I get the chance to get some jumper leads I will give it a go
Jaredwhat I was thinking is if you can get the key to sort of fit in the axle and then wrap it with the strip of coke can, somehow hold it tight and then with a cold chisel tap on each side of the key and you might be able to square it up enough to hold the key in place while you get the wheel back onto the axle. Then you need to make sure that you can get the wheel tightened up nice and tight so that it can't move at all. Any movement will cause it to quickly chew the coke shim out
Morning
Only trouble with that solenoid you have is you will need a Key for it, the were big red & plastic..
Hi Nath, apparently he has a key he was trying to start it with the key but it wouldn't turn over and I can only assume he was using the ignition wires because he had no battery leads
Hi Nath and Norm the ignition I don't have a proper key for however the ignition switch only pushes in to crank the engine over. I tested it multiple times. I don't think I have been using heavy enough cable. I have found some heavier cable now so I will see if that makes a difference.
With regards to the wheel I will try the coke can shim however the hole that is in the rim is located directly where the key sits so there's no meet in the rim to hold the key in place at all. As soon as I tighten the wheel up the key falls straight out. Will still try and see how it works if I can get it sitting in tight enough
Playing around with it just now I have found that there is a dead short between the positive section of the starter motor and the chassis. Is there supposed to be rubber inserts somewhere to insulate the starter from the rest of the body? Possibly another bit that I haven't got in the box of parts?
Jared another option is to weld the key onto the axle, or weld the sides of the keyway up and then file it back so the key fits nicely. All these things can be done just depends on what works best for you. Ok so this push button switch you have, does it only have 2 light wires coming out of it or does it have 2 nuts on it that the battery cables connect to. Starter motor bolts directly to the body, no insulation. What makes you think the starter is shorting out?
Another alternative for the wheel might be to get a piece of thin wall 1" inch tube, slot it down the middle so you can roll it into a taper that will fit snug on the axle taper then cut/file a section out so you can hold the key in position so you can get the wheel tightened up. Plenty of ways to fix it just depends on what you can do and what tools you have available
Ok I will try it all and see what works better. With regards to the starter. I put my multimeter on it and compared it to an old generator starter that I have. Sorry bout seeming a bit clueless but it's the first time I've had to do with this side of things so learning as I'm going.
The switch only has 2 cables coming out of it which I believe connects to the battery solenoid and then the start I've removed the cables and other brackets at present until I can get it to crank over properly so I don't have to keep taking things of and on hopefully the vid shows what's happening when I short the starter hope this helps
Regards
Ok so that looks like a battery isolation switch to me, it would do in place of a solonoid but not the best idea Do you have the key for it? I can't see the vid so I can't see what is happening. What cables have you removed at the moment? Without battery leads or jumper leads there is not much you can do at the moment
There is no key that was with it but I managed to find a key that works temporarily. I do have battery leads that I found around the place. I have tried connecting it all up. On its own the starter motor runs perfectly, although a little noisy. When attached to the side of the engine as soon as it starts it engages with the motor and just stalls. Doesn't do anything else. If I leave it to long it gets really hot sorry the vid doesn't work
Ok so I guess the starter is dead, I guess you didn't get a starter with the second motor
No unfortunately I will have a look around today and see if I can find one. I was hoping that would not be the case. Oh well I will see what I can do
Sorry Jared, I can't help you with what starter motors will fit. Not sure if other HP Briggs motors will fit. I would be reluctant to throw more money at it because that motor is a complete unknown. I'm not sure if you could drill start it either, probably would but I can't guarantee it
I have just looked them up and it looks like the starters fit several motors. You would need to discuss it with them before you bought one. As I said I hate the thought of throwing money at something like this when you have no idea what condition the motor is in.
/www.ebay.com.au/itm/Briggs-and-Stratton-Starter-Motor-5-16HP-for-Vertical-Shaft-Lawn-Mower-Engine/171002453071?
Morning All,
Jared, that engine is fitted with pull start as well as electric start. If it were mine I wouldn't be worrying about the electric start. I'd just be using the pull start.
I'm not a fan of Norm's repair suggestions for the wheel. If it is to be repaired it needs to be done properly. Your a machinist, what do you think of the idea of trying to cut a new keyway 180 degrees from the current one? If it were mine I'd try turning up a plug that fits neatly on the parallel section of the axle hole and run a drill down on a drill press to start the keyway then neatly hand file to finish or even carefully scrape the keyway out on a lathe. Would be a fiddle job but I reckon it would work.
Can't help with the sprocket as I used both my spares on the zero turn. My own Tractor 8 is fitted with a generic 10 tooth sprocket bought from an engineering supply place years before I had a parts collection.
Cheers,
Hi thanks for that it does have a pull start so will check the condition of motor using that. I was trying to restore it as original as possible but I believe the motor might have been changed at some stage as it is. Was thinking bout doing a key way 180 degrees I just don't have the access to a drill press or lathe at this stage till I return back to work from the holidays. but was thinking bout possibly sleeving it as a temp fix. All 4 tyres are perished at the moment so just need a temp fix to make sure the drive train works correctly at first then can correct the fiddle bits properly at a later stage
Jared this sprocket fits the Anniversary you would need to check if it fits the Tractor. Bit expensive but sometimes we just have to do it. Get the motor running first.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DRIVE-S...IELD-RIDE-ON-MOWERS-GT7012/171563662607?
Hey people just wondering I managed to get a 10 tooth sprocket for my greenfield tractor 11 but it seems very small. The shaft size is right just wondering if anyone knows what the outer diameter is supposed to be. It says on the pack 5/8” but looks very small. Thanks
Hi Jared,
10 teeth will be right, I tried to count the one here and I got to 7 with a couple around the back I couldn't get to. I'm sure when I replaced one years ago it had 10 teeth
Hey how’s everyone managing with the times at the moment? Can anybody tell me what the pedal is and if anyone knows where I can get one from or willing to sell one. And how it is supposed to be installed. Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated thank you. It for a greenfield tractor 11. Thank you
G'day Jared,
The RH pedal operates the wheel drive clutches [and hence forward/reverse selection], via a linkage. The linkage rod looks to still be in position, from your pic.
Not hard to fabricate one of these, if you have a few sheetmetal and welding skills, or know someone who has.
It's part number 27 of Illustration 2 in the IPL for your machine, which is a free download for ODK subscribers from
HEREThe file is named 'tractor5vevr8vevr10vevr11vevr.pdf'
ODK member 'prd' has several of the Tractor models, and could probably measure up the critical dimensions of this part; I'd drop him a PM to ask.
