How's things mate? So I have finally been able to put the cross brackets on for the cutter deck. I still need to put on the other 'u' shaped brackets on yet. But I noticed that the belt is very loose. Is there supposed to be a tensioner there somewhere to take the slack out of the belt? I still have to cut the chain as well. Just wondering bout the tension on the belt?
I think you've just got the clutch in the disengaged position. In this position the belts do go very slack. Below are photos of the clutch in both the engaged and disengaged positions. Note there is a lot of travel.
We haven't discussed connecting the clutch lever mechanism. It's just an over-centre arreangement with a spring to apply pressure. I'm not sure if I saw the spring in your collection- I don't think so. Any firm spring of the right dimensions. Bunnings has a good range. Note my v bodgy 'spacers' behind my spring. I think I put them there as a teenager when I was struggling with belt slippage. There are twohole positions for the eyebolt on your machine and three on mine. I've never seen any use for the other holes on mine. Yours is on the bottom one too. The bottom one gives maximum travel. Conversely the top one will give least travel but best mechanical advantage. It also allows the arm to overcentre more but excess over centreing just reduces belt tension. Leave it in the bottom hole and see how you go.
You need to hook up the cutter brake wire at this point . The wire is still on your cutter clutch assembly. There should be a bolt with couple of links of chain (same as the height adjust) on the brake arm on the deck. Connect this to the wire. Probably best to get another piece of wire. It's just wire . I'll take a photo tonight. Also, did you end up putting the bushes in the cutter clutch pivot points that we were talking about?
Yes I put the bushes in. The nuts are tight and there�s still movement in the brackets that allow it to pivot. With regards to the engaging lever. Is there supposed to be another bush in the arm in front of the spring? The hole seems quite big and sloppy for the arm and spring. If not I�ll get a spring and some big washers as well.
Another thing I was going to ask. A little of topic from where we are up to but I noticed the rear wheel has major cracking where the key goes on the drive wheel. And the tyres are in pretty bad shape. Are they standard tyres that I can get from a mower shop and is the wheel standard or a specific make due to the taper on the rear axle?
Also the small drive sprocket. Is it a standard 10 or 9 tooth sprocket?
These last bits I�m not overalls worried about at the moment. However when the rest of it goes together I won�t be able to properly test until I fix it. So mainly for future reference when the rest of it is sorted
Well, we are all learning in this world. On the strength of your question about the size of the hole in the eyebolt I just had a stooge round my collection and a look-see at the parts dogalogue and discovered there was an earlier clutch arrangement with the spring above the over-centre rod. The spring picked up the top hole in the clutch arm so that accounts for at least one of the extra holes. Also, the eyebolt in the earlier version had a nylon bush in the eyebolt. On the later one ( which is the one we are talking about), the eyebolt hole appears to remain the same large diameter but without the nylon bush. Illustration 1 and Illusration 9 of the parts list shows this. In short, rock on! .
Make sure the eyebolt can pivot in the arm.
My own machine has a sprocket that was bought at an engineering supplier. If I recall it's standard sprocket but they couldn't get one with the keyway so cut one for me. It was a long time ago and way before I started my collection of parts donors. It's a 10 tooth sprocket. If you can't get one I can have a dig around but in my wander 'round the shed just now I didn't notice any- which is surprising.
Wheel and axle hassles are a common theme unfortunately. I am a bit curious as the photo of the wheel doesn't look like any Greenfield wheel I've seen. Can we have a photo of the other side please?
I can help with a wheel.
The early wheels with the taper seem to have been a hassle and can certainly present challenges when trying to remove the wheel. That said, my own daily drive has this style of wheel and has never given an ounce of trouble. Later on they went to the wheel with the three bolt mounting which is much easier to remove but the mounting adapters do crack.
Tyres and tubes are standard items and can be procured from many places including the good folks at the ODK shop.
Ok that�s interesting about the wheel here is the other side.
With regards to the rest of it I think I have it right. I�ll leave the bush out for the moment and put a spring in the cutter clutch arm and see how it goes. I think I have the rest of it ok. I couldn�t work out the wire that you were talking about though. I think I worked out the bracket on the cutter deck it attaches to but I could work out where the other end attaches to. Hopefully the photos show ok
Go back through have a look at the photos that you posted in the very beginning of your parts collection. They show the cutter clutch frame with a piece of wire attached to the centre arm. Note the attachment is via a couple of chain links. Attach this wire (or a fresh piece of the correct size to the arm on the cutter brake in the photo above. Again this is attached via a couple of chain links. Just copy the other end.
Can I get you to tell me the rear tyre size please?
I noticed a couple of things in the last batch of photos:
You need a bolt through the front of the height adjust ratchet
There is a nylon bush missing from the steering arm. These are supposed to be a press fit into the frame think but they come loose and do fall out.
Your attachment of the chain links is slightly different. The photos below show how it was originally fitted. This allows the top and bottom chain links to pivot freely
The rest of the adjustments I will work on tomorrow cos I ran out of time today. The other thing is this the steering arm with the bush you were talking about? If so there is a nylon bush in it that I machined up. Looking at it now I do believe I put it in back to front
Mmmm, so it is a 6" rim. It looked like it in the photo and that's why I asked. The Tractor 11 ran an 8" rim (6.50x8 tyre). It was the Tractor 8's like my old girl that ran the 6" rim.
To try and shed some light on this puzzle, can you tell me what the front tyre size is?
It is a Tractor 11 and not a Tractor 8?
If you've got the nylon bush in there, happy days! I don't think it matters a great deal which way round it goes. Perhaps just keep an eye on them as they do want to migrate out. If they do something as simple as a worm drive clamp or a split pin solves the problem.
The front tyres are 11x5.00-5. I do believe it is a tractor 11 however not 100% sure I got it given to me in pieces. Now that I think of it I actually spoke to someone from green field themselves in Brisbane that I emailed a picture of it to and they told me it was an 11. But there is nothing that says on it which one it is. The only stickers is what is in the photo
It's got 5" front wheels like my Tractor 8. The Tractor 11's had a 6" front wheel. Something else I noticed is that your frame doesn't have the 'running boards' behind the pedals. These were on the 11's but not on the 8's, I think. Photos below of two of my Tractor 11 donors showing this. In short it appears to be a Tractor 8 frame. However, the engine is 11HP (400cc). Possibly it has been re- engined? Might be interesting to get the model,type and code off the engine one day.
All this is just a distraction really. It doesn't really matter. The only way it's of any importance is that you need a 6" rear wheel and not the 8". I'll have a dig around. Not sure if I have one as I haven't parted out any Tractor 8's
Ok that�s interesting about the model. Does that mean it�s an earlier model?
I have had a few distractions this weekend but I think I�m on par to start the next bit. See what you think. I think I may need to put a spacer behind the cutter engagement spring to tension the belt a bit more but I�ll see how it goes
Ok no worries. Yes the brake lever come of the pulley a fair amount. Now when it comes to the motor and starter I will get you the photos this arvo when I get home. However do you by chance have a wiring diagram for it. I have noticed I have a started motor and batteries but there is no wiring at all so I am going to have to make a wiring harness for it
Ok here are the remaining parts I have. I�m not to sure how the carby is yet. When I get the chance will have to pull it apart and have a look. Also not sure if there is anything missing yet
Yesterday was a pretty good day. Hope yours was too.
Another series of questions:
Do you know the history of why the engine was dismantled by the previous owner? It's just handy to know the history.
Do you have any or all of the little bits - e.g. The bolts for the cowl, carb, etc. and the springs and link for the carb?
And a bit off topic, can you photograph the start solenoid and ignition switch please (especially the back) so we can draw you up a wiring diagram for the loom.
It's been a while since I last played with a Briggs but �m sure it'll come back to me . And if I stumble the folks on this forum with proper Briggs knowledge will help out I'm sure.
. I'll take a photo tonight.
