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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 45
Novice
Hi,

I can�t link any photos so maybe hard to explain. I�ve just paid my subscription so maybe that�s why I can�t post....anyway.

The accelerator doesn�t work on my Rover 45. Not the engine, the one that pulls on the clutch inside the chain cover.

I�ve just fully restored it so it hasn�t worked yet...

There is a sleeve and the OD of the sleeve goes inside the sprocket bearing and the ID of the sleeve goes in to a short shaft. Now should the sleeve be an interference fit or a loose fit over the short shaft?

Because as you pull on the accelerator cable this causes a long bolt to push the sleeve up against the clutch to engage and increase the speed of the roller/mower.

My sleeve is a very tight fit and I think this is causing the accelerator to not work/ not allow the clutch to touch the other clutch face...

Any suggestions?

Thanks all!

Attachments
527684AC-CFB4-481D-848A-EDB033C336E3.jpeg (255.58 KB, 57 downloads)
Clutch sleeve
Portal Box 6
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,998
Likes: 16
Former Moderator
Hi Corduroy,

There is a visible pin inside the hole that lines up with a slot and then it should all slip together. I'm just wondering if you've some how sheared the pin off inside the hole.

The lever is not classified as an accelerator, it is merely the land roll clutch lever that is hand operated and provides drive to the rear roller .

I've mentioned this so that it doesn't confuse new members that will eventually read this.


Cheers,
BB.


I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 45
Novice
Thanks BB,

I�m aware of how it is assembled. The rolled pin is there and lines up with the slot. My problem is that it doesn�t just slide in over the shaft with the slot. I need to use a hammer to tap it on.

Should this freely slide up and down? And the rolled pin stops it from moving radially.

Should the sleeve go on as far as it can?

When mine is assembled the clutch/cork pad is hard up against the face of the other clutch face and when you go and move the mower this stops the roller from moving/rolling. When you start the engine the mower takes off by its self.

There is another post in January and you offered to help them by visiting their house. Their issue sounds similar to mine. Did you fit it and what was the issue?

Thanks.


Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,998
Likes: 16
Former Moderator
Hi Corduroy,

Firstly can you supply a link to the post you're referring to as I help a lot of people both at my place or on home visits.

If you are talking about that area where the roll pin is, it should slip in and out quite nicely without any force what so ever. I've just today removed that part and cleaned it on a mower that I'm repairing for my neighbour, who's incidentally caught the cylinder mower bug from seeing me use mine every two days.

Sadly as you are in Perth it's a tad too far for the Doctor to call on you.

Meanwhile if you could attach a few close up shots of the parts in question it would help immensely.


As far as attaching photos make sure you use the full editor page which is the tab on the right side of the 3 tabs underneath where you write in the box. Once that goes into full mode just look down and hove your mouse over the paper clip logo with "attachment manager" and click on that. From there it's pretty self explanatory.

Let me know how you go and if any further issues don't hesitate to write.


Cheers,
BB.


I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 45
Novice
Hi BB,

This is the link I was talking about. What was the fix?

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...er-clutch-something-issue.html#Post89534

I have put it back together as I had to mow the lawns. I had to use the hammer to lightly tap the sleeve on.

I will take it apart again in a few days time and get some photos.

Can you confirm that the sleeve has to be a loose fit so when you pull on the accelerator lever....it then causes the bolt to pull down on the sleeve to engage the clutch/gain more roller speed?

As my sleeve is an interference fit and it doesn�t/won�t move which then doesn�t allow the clutch pad to engage.

I had to push my mower around like a rotary ...

Are you able to measure it with a vernier? I can and we
Can compare sizes....

The alternative is I buy one from the ODK store...

Thanks again for helping.....




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1
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 45
Novice
Hi BB,

I�ve found the problem. The Clutch Oper. Sleeve, number 73 in the manual. This had a smaller ID than the shaft it goes over, item 66.

I opened up another mower (SB 45) I�m planning on restoring and the shaft OD (Item 66) was 14.11mm and the sleeve ID was 14.25mm. As the Sleeve ID is bigger it allows the clutch to slide on the shaft to engage/disengage.

What�s interesting is my mower is a Rover. The sleeve is the original part and the shaft, item 66 is from a Scott Bonnar. So maybe they changed the designed a little or quality control of Rover is/was not the best.

I�m going to contact the ODK store to get them to measure one and if it has a bigger ID than the shaft I�ll get it.

Thanks for help.

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,998
Likes: 16
Former Moderator
Hi Corduroy,

Well that's one of those things that one wouldn't pick up on unless the item was directly in ones hands so as to compare apples with apples.

Must admit I wasn't aware of any minor changes like this in the transmission area between Rover and Scott Bonnar, but one must ask the question, who's been in there before yourself and messed around with something they didn't understand and also how did they tolerate it with it running like it did in constant drive and using the primary clutch to disengage the land roll.

I'm thinking that someone substituted the part that the cork is bonded to some years back, opposed to just replacing the cork itself on the original component. From there they've just learnt to operate the machine with a quick flick of the primary clutch in and out.

The downside is that the only way to obtain the correct part is sadly at the cost of another machine being wrecked. Probably best you find a cheap electric Model 45 of which there are still plenty out there going for no more than $50 and use the land roll clutch out of that along with a whole lot of spare parts to put away, then finally cutting the chassis up for scrap as they are not easily convertible to petrol without a lot of welding involved and relocating the engine mounting points as electric are further outboard than it's petrol counterparts.

Anyway it's good to hear of an outcome and it has brought this small abnominally to our attention.


Cheers,
BB.


I live a 24 Hour lifestyle, but every now and again I seem to fall asleep, well at least that's what my wife tells me.

Moderated by  Bruce, CyberJack, Gadge 

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