A neighbour's Masport mower with the dreaded bar blade won't start after it stalled hittng some pine cones. He said it worked fine until then. We checked to see if the crankshaft bent and the centre bolt looked perfectly concentric when I got him to pull the starter. He claims it started momentarily when he tilted the mower to the left . We attempted to start it multiple times in different throttle positions to no avail. What has likely happened?
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Thanks LRT and NormK. Does it take much pulling apart to fix this particular problem? He has left it at the kerbside for the taking, and after the third time seeing it, I took it with me. Can some sort of swing back blade set up be fitted? 'The steel chassis is in good condition and the wheels are great. A catcher would be nice, should I get it going.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Depends on the model but all you have to do is pull off the cowling to get to the flywheel nut. Then feed rope down the spark plug hole or jam the blade bar with a block of wood to stop the engine turning over whilst you loosen the nut. The other way you can remove the nut is by using a rattle gun but make sure it's in reverse!
There should be threaded holes in the flywheel to attach the Briggs & Stratton style puller. I haven't had much to do with the modern DOV engine so I'm not sure if there are any differences to the older ones.
I'm using an old KIA Carnival as my work van currently and I took it to the KIA dealer for a service & new timing belts as I didn't have the time to do it myself. Anyway, when I picked up the car, I noticed they had charged me for a Helicoil. It turned out their mechanics use rattle guns to remove the sump plugs and this time the mechanic forgot to put it in reverse & destroyed the thread in the aluminium sump! They also said there was a rattle from the engine and they'd need to pull the engine apart to investigate. In the end I paid & never went back. The rattle turned out to be a ring spanner down in the valley of the engine that someone had dropped. They also didn't change the oil filter at the service & the fuel injectors blocked because the fuel filter hadn't been changed...
They should not have charged you for their careless mistake. They didn't coin the term stealership for nothing. I would never leave my servicing to one of these stealerships!! Those Carnival people movers have a sweet V6 note to them.
Ahh, if only victa had kept producing the thumblatch catcher series, they would be in better shape today!
Bar blades is all we have here. They are definitely not meant for mowing things like roots, rocks, large limbs, and the likes. Sorry about that comment but I plenty of bent blades and damage decks from such things.
As for the Briggs need the model number to give the flywheel retainer torque as you definitely want to at specs and not either under or over. Over tightening can the flywheel to break especially on some the newer flywheels.
As for pulling those puller holes are likely not tapped unless someone previously had removed it. I haven't used a Briggs puller since I started repairing these small instead used a harmonic balancer puller. One note those puller bolt needs to grade 8 instead the grade 5 or less I have seen on some those Briggs puller images.
Of all things please use the appropriate puller the next tech will thank you. I got flywheel that can't be remove anymore due someone over torquing it. On top they use hammer to get it off last time and mess mushroomed and cracked the crankshaft stub. This on a NLA crankshaft.
I hope that what LRT called a rattle gun is we here call an impact gun. The one I got would definitely break the flywheel as has a working torque of 950 ft-lbs.
My 3/4" drive rattle/impact gun has a maximum torque of 1215 ft-lbs so would wreck a flywheel in seconds! And yes I've had jobs on earthmoving equipment that I really need a bigger one but got away with a bar welded to the nut & 2ft of railway line sitting on top plus a 20kg sledge hammer. Still it took 2 weeks to get 4 rusted bolts out!
I think it was Tecumseh that used a pry bar under the flywheel & an adaptor to protect the thread whilst hitting the crank. I'm not keen on that method either...
They should not have charged you for their careless mistake. They didn't coin the term stealership for nothing. I would never leave my servicing to one of these stealerships!! Those Carnival people movers have a sweet V6 note to them.
Yes I agree.
The 2000's KIA Carnival actually has a version of the Rover KV6 that also went into the Land Rover Freelander.
Both cars have had a terrible reputation but in the case of the Freelander it was actually the 4 cylinder 1.8K that blew head gaskets because the thermostat was on the cold side to increase warmup times & meet the emissions rating so when the thermostat opened the coolant in the head was close to boiling & the shock of the cold water hitting it caused all sorts of problems. The V6 only does head gaskets if the plastic thermostat in the valley leaks & the owner doesn't check the coolant level.
The first generation Kia had manufacturing issues & most of the motors failed but the 2nd generation models from 2002 onward didn't have the same problem. And yes it's a beautiful sound with plenty of power!
For the 098902-2210-E1 the flywheel starter/nut torque is 55 ft-lbs. It is hard to achieve the proper torque without the starter clutch tool on these if this one has it instead of the nut version but I with being a '99 it will the nut version.
. We attempted to start it multiple times in different throttle positions to no avail.
