OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers Another Qualcast P1 restoration

Well done Bob! She looks a beauty.

Hi CB

This is a real credit to your work and I am sure it will help current or
future members. This one is, by far, the best full restoration I have
seen of a P1 on these forums.

Congratulations.
--------------------------
Jack

Went and paid CarinaBob a visit this afternoon to pick up a very nice set of rollers that he turned up for my P1. While I was there he started up his mower and I took a short video using my phone



It looks and runs like a new one!

I had meant to post this earlier, but it slipped my mind...

A very good tubular material for making grips is available, if they don't need to be all that thick. It's called Hypalon tubing, and it's marketed for fishing rod grips, in a variety of colours and ID sizes.

Available from suppliers of fishing rod building supplies - a Google using 'Hypalon grips site:au' will find local suppliers. Then of course, there are FleaBay sellers too.

I had planned to display the mower at an engine show in July but unfortunately I didn't get there due to illness at the time. I'm thinking of moving the mower and a spare machine on for around $250. Please message me if interested before I try them on eBay. Thanks.

Hi Bob
I'm sorry to hear about your health.

This has been such a great thread about the Qualcast Side-wheels.
I would think very helpful to other members.

All the best for the future.
----------------------------------------
Jack

If only you were in Melbourne! I would buy this in a heartbeat.

Hi All.

Just to add a note about the rear rollers:

The rollers on my "P2" Qualcast (gravity-fed carby) consist of three rollers, as in the above pictures, but the outer two are tapered.
The inner central roller is a true cylinder being 45mm in diameter.
The outer pair are 45 mm at their inner end and are 36 mm at the outer ends.

Not sure if this is a feature of the P2, but I can be reasonably sure the rollers haven't "worn" that way. The measurements are too consistent.
And the rest of the mower is in very good, unworn condition. I have had it for more than 50 years. Not sure of its history before that.

Jeff

i have a couple of these and some clear pics of the handle bar grips, tyre tread and original grass catcher
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/waxvfa9rfl0wmyl/AAA6kvh2CIpWsYKClv4pCC7na?dl=0

link as i no longer can figure out how to add pics, feel free to fix this jack

Hi Bob, I am currently restoring a P1 I picked up off gumtree and unfortunately have several missing/ broken parts. Would you be at all willing to part out your second P1 at all?

Specifically I'm looking for one wheel spigot and a roller carrier at the moment.

Kind regards,

Doug

Hi all,

I'm having some trouble reassembling the P1, specifically with regard to the spacing bushes (part 31 on the exploded view in the manual) and the front and rear stretcher. The unit I disassembled has six such spacers, which seems like the correct number as per the manual, however it seems as though four are required for the front stretcher and I assume four for the rear one too. The manual doesn't show where the spacers are used on the rear. Does anyone have any photos or knowledge of how the spacers are placed on the rear stretcher?

Thanks very much! I also have some spare parts of anyone was in need of anything for these old qualcasts.

Hi Dougie995,

I think the spacers are to accommodate the overhead fuel tank on the non suction model. Maybe offer up the tank to check their positions.

Paul

Hello Dougie995 and Paul
I thinks I see the issue.

I wonder if the diagram is misleading.
Note there are 6 bolts and nuts (39) and two bolts (40).
Maybe the 39 bolts have the spacers ...?

Maybe the six spacers belong to the four engine mounts
and the two on the PTO side clutch bracket of the engine.

At the very least, two rear spacers must go to the rear engine mounts.
It may be that the tank bolts require no spacers because they do
not travel through the two cross bars. That is mere speculation.

I'm hoping someone can help in solving this.

Hope this helps
---------------------------
Jack

G'day Doug ,Paul and Jack

I think It looks straight forward to me , although the last time I dismantled a P1 was 1984 and the motor was used in a bike.

The spacers that I see look like they are sandwiched between the 2 frame rails and the motor base plate ,
that should be 8 spacers if you include the 2 used for holding the fuel tank and 4 for the engine bolts and 2
for the clutch .

If a couple are missing use washers unless there are a couple lugs welded to the brackets somewhere ,you will
soon see when trying to bolt the plate down if it's sitting level.

Cheers
Max.

Thanks all for the help.

Paul and Jack, the fuel tank mounts will have a space between the motor base plate and the two rails(which they go through), so if I use the six for the others these two appear wrong.


All I can work out is as Max has suggested that there are in fact eight.

If I don't place eight and go with six I will be tightening bolts and bending the base plate at two locations. Luckily I have spares from a parts setup, so I am covered however I am still a little confused by the imagery.

Thanks for the assistance!
I'll get some photos sorted.

So I was wrong. The diagram was right(sort of). There is a spacer as per the attached photo which is different in shape to the part partially shown in the diagram. This difference was what got me scratching my head. Six round spacers is indeed the correct number.

I've attached a photo (I hope it works) of my second parts unit which shows the condition my main unit was in, plus a photo showing some of where I've come to. Great having my little daughter to help! I know the colour is wrong and though I do semi regret it it would have cost an extra $100 to get the right colour in rattle cans, so I can live with it as is.

I'm chasing one of the hub caps for this model, the orange part in the photo. Does anyone have one spare?

I'm also having great difficulty with the carby.
Cleaned it all out with the ultrasonic cleaner and got the fuel primed etc, however it won't fire. I have spark and compression. It did blow smoke a few times but I've had zero luck for some time now. I've reset the Jets as per instructions but not getting anywhere.
Very frustrating.

G'day Doug

I would gravity feed the carby fuel from an old mower tank ,you could put the tank on the bench or on anything
that's higher than the carby .

That way you will at least know it's not a fuel supply problem then once the motor runs switch back
to the original tank .

I am thinking the points gap and timimg are correct and condenser works.
Cheers
Max.

Thanks Max,

I ended up getting it running by just turning it over with the drill and adjusting the carbs at the same time and it started firing and ran for a solid 15 minutes or so.
I'm now having trouble adjusting the carbs properly. If I adjust as per the instructions it doesn't seem to run, yet I am struggling to get it to idle nicely and then pickup with throttle. I can get it to idle quite well, but nothing else. I'll get there....

Hello Bob.
I am a bit late in joining in but did you manage to sell the mowers?