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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 760
Likes: 4
Senior Contributor
I have no spark on a petrol Southern Cross KXD-2 mower that I am doing up. So I pulled the flywheel and took the electrics to a relative of mine to have a look at. He tested the condensor and said it wasn't working. Then when I was away he ground off the bottom of the condensor so he could pull it out, and of course all of the numbers stamped on the bottom got ground off too! mad

It was a German-made condensor, but that is all I know. I can't seem to find the number in the manual. I took it to a local auto-electrician who tells me a Bosch GB503 should work, even though these are designed for Holden cars. He is also not sure of the fit, as they have to sit tightly in the sleeve in order to make a connection.

Can anybody please suggest the most suitable replacement condensor for the Southern Cross KXD-2?

Joined: Jan 2017
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Senior Contributor
After a bit of research and help from a friend, I'm answering my own question here.

Original ignition ground plate: LMPT6Z
Bosch points equivalent: Bosch 1-217-013-021
Original condensor no: LMKO1Z1Z
Bosch condensor equivalent: 1-237-330-035

Someone else told me that the correct Bosch condensor is 1-237-330-037

I am not sure if there is much difference between the 035 and 037 condensors? Would anybody know if this is worth worrying about, or would the difference be negligible?

Joined: Nov 2013
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Hello vint_mow
This is great research you have done there.
Yes, the parts list I have does not cover the ignition in detail.
This indicates a bought-in system.

I have a basic question - so pardon my ignorance on this.
It was normal for AUS engine makers to fit overseas ignition systems.

Do you think SC used a Bosch ignition system - flywheel, stator plate,
armature, condenser, points, etc? Is their any info on the flywheel?

----------------
Jack

Joined: Jan 2017
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Senior Contributor
Jack, The ignition plates have an "S&S" logo stamped on them, from what I can make out. These were perhaps a forerunner of BOSCH? Whatever the case they were definitely Made in Germany, as this is stamped prominently on the plate as well.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Joined: Jan 2017
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Senior Contributor

Incidentally, I have just found out that Bosch GB550 is the most suitable modern replacement.


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Hello vint-mow

That's new information for us.
Great record images too.

I was not aware that Bosch (S&S) made a flywheel-magneto system.
This expands our knowledge of the SC EC-B engine.

---------------------
Jack


Joined: Jan 2017
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Biggest problem is I may have to take it all back to the auto-electrician to get him to solder the wires on the top. I am told you need special rosin-core solder and flux to get the wires to solder on properly. I have neither. I can solder small electrical joints, but this job is in a different league!

Joined: Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by vint_mow
Biggest problem is I may have to take it all back to the auto-electrician to get him to solder the wires on the top. I am told you need special rosin-core solder and flux to get the wires to solder on properly. I have neither. I can solder small electrical joints, but this job is in a different league!
Dunno about that. These terminals are usually made of tinned brass or copper, specifically to make them solderable.

If this is the case here, normal electronic type [60Sn/40Pb] resin flux core soft solder will work just fine.

A small output soldering iron [some of those for hobby work are only 25-30W] will struggle to get enough heat into the job, though. Anything with 50W or better should be fine, however.

I sometimes use my old instant-heat Superscope 100W iron for these jobs.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Jan 2017
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Thanks Gadge. I guess it is a toss up between me attempting it and making a total mess and the auto-electrician doing it properly in about 30 seconds and then charging me a fortune. laugh

I am sure some of the more modern style of condensors would do the job. These have a wire coming from the top which is extremely easy to connect to the other wires. In fact I recall my dad installing a condensor in a KXD-2. He used a more "modern" condensor out of an old 70s Holden. I think he just twisted the wires together and insulated them with some electrical tape. It is still going strong all these years later. If that was me I would at least solder the wires together and blob some insulation over it, but in the old days people often just patched things up with whatever they had on hand.


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