OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Collectors Corner Cylinder Rover Model 45 - just bought it, many questions!

Hi guys,

I've been a member of the forum for a while, but I'm mostly just a reader! I'm pretty keen on a nice lawn, and as such I've wanted to buy a reel mower for a long time. Found one at the local tip (Canberra) and bought it for 70 bucks. I think I got a bargain, but I'll let you guys be the judge!

I don't know much about it, but I will attach some photos and hopefully you guys can fill me in on the history and condition (from what you can see).







A video of it running is here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!Aqqs5SaUjwc-puh3RkfUYLBumgbq6A

I have a few specific questions if anyone can help out:

1. In the last image there, you can (maybe?) see the spring that controls the throttle is no good - moving the throttle lever does nothing (the spring has no tension, looks too big even), you have to manually activate the throttle. Presumably I can buy a new spring, but not sure what it's called or where to get it?

2. It doesn't run very well - sometimes it idles nicely (see the video link) - but sometimes it tries to stall and I have to close the choke for a second then open it again and it idles again for a while, then same again. I guess I can recon the carby internals which might help?

3. When it is cold or not idling well, there is a loud knock from the top of the engine. Doesn't sound great. There wasn't much oil in it when I got it, not sure if there is some major damage in there or what...

All in all I'm over the moon with it for the price - but no doubt it will need some work here and there.

That's it for now - no doubt I will have many more questions! Any thoughts? Your insight will be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Damian

Greetings damianf, and a warm welcome to both the ODK Forums, and the fraternity of SB/Rover 45 owners.

That spring looks correct, but the bend in the wire link next to it doesn't look right to me, at first glance.

Anyway, for a start, we need the engine's Model, Type and Code numbers, which will be stamped into the 'square' section of the cowling somewhere. On older Briggs engines, they are adjacent to the carby. With those, we can find the parts list for that specific engine.

Hi Damian and Mod Gadge,

Well all I can say is someone's got too much money. That's a $1000+ machine you've got sitting there and it's the very last variant / update of the Model 45.

There won't be a lot wrong with it with just some minor corrective work to be done as someone with no knowledge has been poking around in the carby area and done more wrong than right. I agree with Gadge that the linkage in question is not the correct shape and thus this would affect the governor and main butterfly relationship. Apart from that maybe a new plug and it should be good to go from that side of things. The other issues it might have will be Reel / Bed Knife scenarios, but that's just normal maintenance and nothing else. The powder coated finish looks to be rather good and it's not been sitting outside. This mower probably would've been built around the 2003~05 era and as previously mentioned was one of the last Rover Model 45's as this is indicated by the rearward facing clutch lever and plastic cover for OH&S concerns over a spinning clutch body.

All in all you've had the score of the month and I wish there were more of these incidences happening.

Cheers
BB.

Thanks guys! Here is the model / type / code numbers - hopefully these details can help me figure out which parts I need to buy. Thanks again for your help - this is a great resource.

Hi Damian,

Well your machine was probably manufactured around early to mid 2004 as sales of the Model 45 had come to a complete crawl and thus they would've had quite a few engines in stock. The engine itself was manufactured on August the 25th 2003 in the USA and would've sat in Rover's warehouse for quite some time.
Regardless you've got the bargain of the month as far as this site is concerned.

Cheers,
BB.

Righto Damian,

Here's the engine IPL to download; http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/18jsBLXBnfBhU7y.pdf

The carby links and springs are shown on Page 6.

I've had another hard look at this machine and I'm starting to wonder if this still has its original engine as there is a clip on the right hand side of the handlebar exactly the same as on the left side, only the RH side should have a throttle cable running down and clipped into place.

Either the whole control assembly has been removed due to its failure or the engine has been changed with a replacement unit which has the throttle and choke controls on the engine itself, thus the control unit has been removed.

Without closer shots of the RH handlebar assembly in the upper area it's hard to judge.

Cheers,
BB.

Hello Mod BB

That could be true.

I can't see Rover ordering an engine with on-board controls.
This was a dearer spec that would be redundant if they then fitted
a throttle cable and control... a bit of a mystery there.

All very interesting.
------------------------
Jack

Hi guys,

I'll attempt to get a closer photo of that handle bar if that helps?

Also, I think the "loud knocking" sound is coming from the clutch - when the mower is idling at low revs there is a loud metallic knocking sound (I think coming from the clutch area) - around 3 or 4 knocks per second. When the revs increase, the knock disappears. The cutting reel rotates when the mower is idling (disengaged), suggesting to me that at the least, some clutch adjustment is necessary? The loud knock suggests maybe something more than adjustment is needed?

Thanks for everyone's input thus far - I really appreciate the help!

Cheers,
Damian

There's another point that suggests the engine being changed, the engine alignment looks out and this is why the clutch is grabbing and letting go thus spinning the cutter reel when it shouldn't. One must remember that the machine was sent to the tip for a reason and not just for fun. Now it's up to someone with a bit of knowledge and not on an hourly clock charging full rates to sort it out and gain the benefits.

I need some close up shots of the clutch housing at various angles with the clutch engaged and then disengaged to assess what's the issue but I'm sure that engine has been off and not correctly aligned upon re-installation.

Another knocking scenario may well be as simple as a not rock tight fitment of the clutch to the PTO shaft. Check to see if those two set screws are locked up tight as if this is a case of free play then a knocking sound will be evident at idle but not at high speed. Just while I think of it do a check of how concentric the clutch revolves around while pulling the rope starter at a slow speed, eg. not at the same rate you would pull it to start. If it wobbles left and right as it revolves then you have an issue there. Do this step prior to checking those screws and their tightness.

The last port of call will be a big end knock in the crankshaft of the engine that again is evident at low revs.

Check these points out and please get back to me with your findings.

Cheers,
BB.

Morning bonnar_bloke,

I am somewhat excited to report that there is no wobble on the clutch housing, and that both screws on the shaft were quite loose. I tightened them (how tight should I go?), adjusted the clutch a small amount, started her up and no more knocking! The reel also no longer spins when clutch is disengaged. Very happy indeed - you sir are a champion.

Cheers,
Damian

I can also report that the RH handle bar indeed has mounting holes for a throttle control. I'll get the whole machine cleaned up a bit over the next couple of weeks then post some detailed pictures for everyone's viewing pleasure.

Thanks to all - I'm sure I will have further questions too - haven't actually had it on the lawn yet!

Hi Damian,

Well that was pretty much my suspicion of the clutch being loose on the shaft and thus the knocking noise is the clutch banging against the key steel on the PTO shaft of the engine.
As far as doing them up tight, you don't have to be Superman and over stress them as they will have points on the tips of the screws that bite into the PTO shaft at 90 degrees to each other. One onto the key steel and the other at 90 degrees round the shaft. It's all about pinning it so it doesn't move rather than King Kong strength, so a bit of feel is required.

As far as the throttle cable is concerned that's still a bit of a mystery as either it's been deleted due to the controls being on the engine or it's simply failed at some point in time and been removed.
To answer these questions you'll need to speak to the person that dropped it off at the tip and that's hardly likely to happen isn't it ?

All in all I still think you've gotten the bargain as the previous person had no idea what was making that loud knocking noise and thought it was buggered. Maybe it also might've been a Deceased Estate shed clear out by someone that needed everything gone quickly and the tip is the obvious choice to some people.

BTW I notice that yours is what was called a "Select Model" which was a very short run using that sticker on the catcher.

Anyway glad that we got to the bottom of it, now the address to send the carton of beer to is .........................

Cheers,
BB.