OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Finding and Swapping Tip & Curb Side Finds 4 Victas

I'm confused. Here is a pic of the carb. It has black poppet.
speedy

Speedy, what is confusing you about the black poppet in a G4. I haven't tried using a black poppet, I just use the white ones and have no problems

I couldn't determine which it was. Thanks.
I just have to spend time working on it, all things here.
speedy

Speedy, from what I have been able to work out is that the G4's had a black poppet and the idle screw in the cap, I assume they did away with the idle screw in the LM's as a cost saving and maybe the different inner profile of the white poppet was to try and achieve an idle

What IS that knurled knob really good for? I have never found it makes much difference in all the years I had one.

Mowerfreak, it works if you modify the carby cam, and then it can be used to adjust the idle. The cam and kill switch design were the result of long lunches at Victa in the design stage

This is what I think killed the Mayfair.
the inner clip that holds that 5mm piece of rod that is mounted on the lower barrel. It has failed and let the rod vibrate loose and I think it fell down and hit the base plate and was shot up piercing the inner side of the muffler.
See pic.missing rod and hole.....
Guess the mowers performance slowed a bit .


I will put a bolt on there.
The barrel was smoothe and rings like new.

I guess it was a 1971 model as this is on the barrel.

Burned piston but rings are perfect. I will use them. Just clean up piston grooves , decoke exhaust port on barrel, no lip on barrel.


Can't wait to start work tomorrow , but my neighbour wants me to mow and edge for christmas..... that will pay for a few beers that I use for inspiration..........
speedy

I have little experience in pulling apart the engines like you have. 1. What do you use to de-coke the piston crown and head and is it realy vital to do it at all?
2. what is a proper method to remove the old gasket without digging into the metal in the process. I recently tried doing it with a used razor blade on an old powertorque and found it a frustrating experience. I ended up resorting to rubbing the head on sand paper mounted on a sheet of glass to remove all traces!
3. Do you need a torque wrench to tighten the head nuts or is there a rule of thumb method to tightening coreectly, including the sequence?

G'day Speedy and folks,

If the carbon deposit extends down the piston skirt like that, the rings are knackered! Despite what thickness they are - they can lose their spring tension too. For the little that they cost, just replace them.

In addition, by far the best tool for scraping carbon out of ring grooves is a old ring broken in half, with the end ground to a chisel edge.

For scraping off carbon, you need a tool with a bit of length to it, to make it easily controllable. So a razor blade isn't the go at all.

Something like an old wood chisel, for scraping the gasket remnants off flat surfaces, works well.

And a flat tool, with a square ground edge, for piston crowns and such - I make these from sections of power hacksaw blade.

I'll put up a few pics, if you like.

Speedy, what's the serial number stamped into the RHS of the crankcase? That lower half crankcase has the integral bottom seal protector, which is later than 1971.

It's engine no is 02002343 and VI on the other side of the engine.
Nad mowerfreak, I'll do like Gage said.
speedy

Scrapers [see above], and a small fine wire brush wheel in an electric drill are the handiest tools for this job. Yes it is a necessary task, as if the carbon builds up too much, it can crack off in chunks and cause damage. Pre-ignition can occur from hot carbon, as well - it usually happens when the carbon is thick, and the surface rough.
Scraper/s,as mentioned above. BTW, lapping the sealing surface of the head using fairly fine [400-600 grit] wetted wet & dry paper, backed by sheet glass, is an excellent way of ensuring that the surface is flat.
Well, it's best practice to use a torque wrench, but it wasn't specified by Victa until the 160cc engine came out [9-11 ft-lb, BTW]. The workshop manuals for the 125's just say 'tighten evenly and firmly'; see this Victa workshop manual excerpt: https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/pages/V...icta%20Workshop%20%20Engine%20Manual.pdf

If you don't have a suitable torque wrench [those sold for car work are difficult to set accurately at these low torque values], use a fairly short spanner [say a ring/open end combo], or a 1/4" drive socket wrench. This will help to avoid over-tightening the nuts.
The tightening sequence is straightforward; do them on the diagonals, i.e. like this:

G'day folks,

Well, the plastic carby says it's 1975 or later, and that number format makes it 1977 on. That's as close as I can date it, without a model number.

The model no on the air filter cap is MN 332A9 if that is original.

thanks
speedy

Hello Gadge,
I had a spare set of rings and comparing the two I can easily see how the ones from the mayfair have lost their spring will be putting the new ones in.
speedy

Gwtting things together, rebuilt decompresor, and carby it was missing the small spring between the two things inside...... a new big o ring and looks good.
Tried a repair on the muffle, may save $30 as the warden doesn't like me spending money on my hobbies.....
Buggered a barel gasket as I didn't use two pieces of wood to res piston on.....
Get one tomorrow.
speedy

Is that a sealing layer I see under that metal plate? Did it need more stuffing inside? The muffler off my 125 has it missing where the gases shoot in. Is that normal?
Thanks for sharing those useful tips tips Gadge. No longer as angsty about pulling it apart.

It's a piece of head gasket, might help. I didn't fill it with anything, might put a couple of those metel scourers in. You need that gasket where the muffler meets the manifold.
Yes you learn a lot here.
cheers
speedy

Fixed that missing rod with a cut off bolt.
It's coming together

speedy

speedy, what is that bolt for?

Thatd be where the muffler clips hook onto