OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers SB 45 - dual project (newbie)

BB my guess would be an air conditioning duct manufacturer going by the lockseamed edges

Hi NormK,

My asking is because it looks to be a rather faithfull copy using an original hook frame and the profile of it looks really good. The only part no one has been able to reproduce is the side panels that have decorative dimple pressed into them which would cost a lot to tool up for as it would require a die stamping procedure which really isn't worth setting up for unless you were going to make thousands of them, which aint gonna happen.

We get asked all the time about catchers and if we can find a reliable maker then we could forward their details on to potential restorers in the future.

Cheers,
BB.

BB my guessing is they have used the original hook frame and just made the new sheetmetal. Very simple job for a duct manufacturer

Hi NormK,

Most of the makers are using the original framework as it would be far more expensive if they had to remanufacture the thicker steel work.

Cheers,
BB.

PS. I guess congratulations are in order as you've just hit the 1000 post milestone. A great achievement in a short time indeed and never a dull word spoken. Keep it up Norm as you are a great asset to the ODK.

BB, I never noticed the post count, but you are just about there as well, maybe I should back off I talk too much
As for the frame, they would not be too hard to make, easy if you are not counting the hours, doesn't matter how long it takes, but if you want a manufacturer to do it, time costs money

Hi All,

I ended up contacting Jason, who posted a few years ago on a thread here
His father in law still makes these catchers in Brisbane for $160.

The catcher is slightly different to the pictures in those old posts (I think the design has improved)...I'll take some close-up photos tomorrow of the 20 inch catcher, because it's still at home, but the sides are straight and not pressed as you are asking. It's certainly a heavy duty catcher and a bit thicker and heavier than the original.

I ended up using a flap sander attachment on a grinder and that has worked a treat on the bad rusting. I'm still going to paint some rust converter on the hard to reach places though. There's no point cutting corners now. I'm really hoping that I get enough spare time next week to at least have most of the parts painted in primer by the weekend. Yet to lock in an engineer to sharpen the reel and bed knife...

All of my nuts and bolts that I ordered from Outdoorking arrived last week. I was unimpressed with my set of chain case screws though - they are totally different! I'm fairly obsessive compulsive when it comes to the 'look' of things, so I can't have 2 totally different chain case screws on a restored mower. I guess I'll have to contact the online store and request another is sent out. I purchased 4 (for 2 mowers) and 3 are the dome style and one is a flat head. Strange.

Hi Em,

Sounds like Dennis is still making them then.

I had quite a bit to do with his son in law Jason a few years ago but freight was just so prohibitively expensive to ship to Adelaide and as such I've never bought one. I felt that Dennis really did make the best catchers in the land and was pretty close to the real McCoy apart from the pressed side panels which is just way to costly to replicate. That pressing was originally done to add strength into the sides, but as he makes them out of slightly heavier gauge steel will eliminate the need to add the profile into the sides. I will say though that the added pressing does make them aesthetically more appealing than just plain straight.

I must admit that getting the incorrect screws is rather odd and really shouldn't have happened and for that I will apologise on the ODK's behalf. I'm sure Bruce will make good on it for you. They were originally just plain dome headed 1/4 gutter bolts which can be obtained through any hardware chain store,

Anything you can do to prevent the dreaded cancer of steel is basically a good thing and as such I'd totally support you on that issue.

Looking forward to forthcoming progress photos, as they should be great.

Cheers,
BB.

Yes, it's Dennis that actually makes them.

Here are some closer shots of the 20inch catcher:

Hi Em,

I've got to ask the question, why did you purchase a 20 inch catcher when all your machines are 17 inch models ?

Also there is a special process you have to go through when painting fresh zinc alume (Galv)as straight primers will just not adhere to the repelent surface. If I recall correctly you'll have to use a light acid prewash (oxidene) to destroy the smooth glossy surface and then use an etch primer shortly after, prior to final colour being applied.

Read the folowing article and it pretty much explains it all.

http://www.gaa.com.au/index.php?page=surface-preparation

Cheers,
BB.

Ohhh thanks BB. I didn't even think of that! I'll have a read and follow this process during the week.

The fourth mower (I know - I've lost it) that I picked up is a 20 inch. I haven't posted any photos of it yet as I've been preoccupied with this restoration. Once this one is done, the 20 inch will be next on the list as I'll be keeping it for myself. I picked it up for $50 in Brisbane a few weeks ago. It looked like they put it into storage for a few years because the thrust pad had melted. I got it running for peace of mind and then moved on to this one. Sounds like it could end up being the best deal of the lot.

See photos below:

Hello emk3

I think the issue arises with hand-held devices.
This was discussed in this topic:

Rotation Problems

It's annoying isn't it?
I love how technology just works.

---------------------
Jack

p.s. How do you get your 45 to stick sideways on a vertical grass slope?
Those 45's are incredible mountain goats!

Hi Em and Mod CJ,

I notice that your mower has had a clutch half changed and the situation prior to this would've affected the thrust pad and melted it.
One thing that is incredibly common is that the twin rail 20 inch was the most susceptable to rail fracture and inevitable total failure.

I would remove the engine and have a quick look carefully at the rail surfaces and see what the situation is with any tell tale marks as with it having the clutch changed means that massive vibration would've been forced upon the rail to take up and the 20 inch machine has a long span that will suffer rather quickly.

Regardless, $50 is a good buy for a machine that when fully restored should fetch around $1500 hands down.

Cheers,

BB

***Update*** that figure would be around $2000~$2500 in today's market.(Dec 2019)

Hi BB and others,

As it turns out, I have some slight fractures on the 17 inch frame. It looks as though someone has tried welding them before. Am I right in saying that I follow the gusset repair method underneath the frame and use it to incorporate the engine mounting nuts that are already there? Is this all I need to do, or do I need to grind into the frame on the top again? I'm just concerned with grinding the top when I can see that this has been done previously and it hasn't really been levelled off that well.

Also, we are nearing the end of the build with our new house. I was originally looking at laying oz tuff green couch, but I'm concerned that it won't grow down the side of our house. My dad has Empire Zoysia and it looks amazing when it's healthy and is quite tolerant to shade. Will Empire Zoysia cut nicely with a cylinder mower, or is it more like buffalo/sir walter and is a bit of a waste of time with anything other than a rotary mower?

I've got a picture of our block so you can see the sides of the house and comment. The back of the house faces west and the front is east. I'm particularly concerned about that section of turf directly behind the garage.

Hi Em,

I'll be honest here and say that I've never had anything to do with Zoysia as it's not really suited to South Australia's climate, but best suited to Queensland where you are. As far as Cylinder or rotary is concerned you can try it with a cylinder cut machine on your fathers lawn and if suitable then I think you'll have your answer.
SA couch will definitely be no good on the southern side of the dwelling as it requires around 5 to 6 hours of sun on it constantly and that it won't get due to the way your house is situated on the block.

Now as far as your rail repair is situated the best method from where I sit is the gusset repair method and you must tie the original mounting nuts into the inserted gusset. This then stops more of the same happening.

Cheers,
BB.

Thanks for the reply, BB. I will definitely test it out before we choose the turf. I just know that we'll struggle with any type of couch around that side of the house is all...

Here's an update on the progress:






Most parts of the mower have been painted. I just need to do the frame, handle bars and clutch cone tomorrow. I currently have this in clamps because I replaced the cork. I'm having to paint the handlebars in a chrome paint as the previous owner welded a bit of steel in. I'm pretty happy with the chrome paint, so will give it a go for this mower.

I'm a bit disappointed with the lack of hammertone effect in the main green paint. It just didn't really show up at all. I included the last photo so you can see a close up of the paint. It looks more like a metallic finish than hammer. Oh well, I know my dad won't be too fussed by that little detail. I have read that it could either be that the gun pressure was too high or a temperature thing.

Any tips for spraying a hammertone paint with a spray gun? I'm sure I'll be more emotionally invested in the next mower as that is for myself...While this is all drying, I will get the motor sanded and painted. I still haven't had anything sharpened, but I've got it booked in for late next week. Is a week enough drying time? There are 2 coats of paint.

Thanks again,
Em

Hi Em,

Honestly it looks great. I think you've probably applied a tad much which will give you a smoother finish and also there might not be quite enough silicone in the base silver prior to it having tinter added.

I'll have to say that "Flash" photography is always a bit of a misrepresentation of the actual colour, so if I may ask which colour that I'm seeing is a closer representation of how it looks to the eye, the soleplate, the catcher or the chain case ?
Again the chaincase looks rather diferent also with a huge amount of gloss on it, which I rather like but that's just a personal thing and not a faithfull reproduction of how they left the factory, but hey who am I to complain ? it looks really good.

All in all it's coming together rather well.

Cheers,
BB.

I painted the chassis and clutch cone today and put it on lighter, but the effect didn't come out any better...I guess it might be the gun/pressure or the paint itself? I tried calling the place I bought the paint from, but their spray gun expert didn't get back to me. I primed everything twice and also sanded it after each application of primer - did I make it too smooth ? Anyway, it still looks good, I just would have liked to have seen the hammer effect the way it was intended. I'll try to get it right with the lighter green hammer paint on my 20 inch.

As for the colour, I'll try to take a picture in natural light next week once it's dry. I'm not great with colours and all of those photos were taken shortly after painting, so it would have been wet.

I will turn my attention to the motor now. I'm going to see if I can get away with painting it mostly assembled. I'm getting a bit anxious about painting the motor, so are there any tips for sanding/painting? Can I sandblast parts such as the air filter housing, petrol tank and air cowling or do you think that would be too harsh and leave too much residue behind? Just trying to cut down on time as I know that I'll hit a few road blocks during reassembly. I know you mentioned that painting the carb can sometimes make it seem as though the screws are sort of glued in, so I'd really appreciate any advice with painting. I don't want to get it wrong and have to strip it all back again.

Thanks for the positive feedback. It's been a learning curve, but I'll save myself a heap of time when I get around to stripping/painting the next one as I've done a lot by trial and error...I'm just so nervous about getting that motor back on and making sure it still runs and cuts correctly after painting, reassembly and sharpening. I've printed all the instructions for fitting and aligning everything, but I still think that will be the real test!

Hi Em,

I acknowledge your post above and will reply tomorrow.

Cheers,
BB.

PS. My reply is below and sorry for the delay as we've been tied up with the neighbours putting in their pool and honestly I've never seen so many Double Tippers, Bobcats, Excavators, Rock Breakers, a 95,000 Ton Crane, Traffic Control People etc. in a small dead end street over the past 3 days. Anyone would think this is the new Royal Adelaide Hospital building site.

Cheers.

Hi Em,

Personally as previously mentioned I feel there may be not enough silicone in the actual paint, but rest assured that the company that sold it to you won't admit to that. The main thing is that it looks uniform all over the completed machine and that you like it.

As far as painting the engine is concerned they were originally painted fully assembled but that's probably not how I would do it as you have to take into consideration that the factories are all about speed and ease of production for themselves and definitely not about how it will affect the service personel at a later point.

Sand blasting is not reccommended for alloy parts at all. (I'm only mentioning this for the benefit of future readers of this thread) Bead Blasting is the only method for aggressive blasting. If you use conventional grit blasting you'll see the material dissappear before your very eyes and that's not the outcome we want is it ? Now as far as the steel parts are concerned that's not a huge issue but "NOT" the petrol tank as it has a sealing glue applied around the seam joint and you don't want to disturb that at all, so paint stripper is the best way to go on that part.

Now as far as painting is concerned I would paint the engine in much the same fashion as it was originally done and keep up the theme of not painting the areas that were not originally painted under the Cowling. I would though crib in a bit further than the original end of paint lines that are created by the air cowling, thus the cowling when fitted will slide over a bit of painted area. This is good should you have to remove the cowling at any future point and not split the painted seam that is created at the factory originally. BTW paint the Cowling seperately along with the Petrol Tank and Air Cleaner housing.

I would assemble the carby onto the side of the engine tightly using sping washers and paint it that way. (BTW Mask up the underside of the carby) This way you also create a good seal between the the two assemblies and avoid any air leakage. Try and leave the adjusting screws in the position that they were when it was last running and paint straight over but keep in mind not to shoot too much paint into that area as you don't want to glue it all up and restrict the movement of the governor parts and linkages etc. Just a quick point, don't paint surfaces that will have a gasket used between two assembled parts, mask those areas carefully.

My advice is to just think twice and do once, that way you'll come out with the outcome you are striving for.


Cheers,
BB.