OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Engines Questions On Victa Two Stroke Engines Victa Mayfair (1966) flywheel nut (standoff nut)

I have a 66 Victa Mayfair and I'm trying to find the flywheel nut which acts as the stand-off for the wind up starter cup (and secures the flywheel).
The nut is around 1/2 inch unc thread (I think-roughly measured, can't find my thread gauge) and is around 22mm long. I also require the stepped screw which secures the starting cup, it's been severely damaged by some flip who has cross threaded it in the past.

Oh, this is a standard right hand thread

Any ideas at all where I may find this?

If I can't I can always get the local engineer to make them as per sample but that will cost at least $80 for one hour labour plus materials. That makes it an expensive nut and screw (bolt)



I removed the flywheel to replace the condenser (a $30 part at my local mower shop) but the lead on the condenser was too long and it rubbed and shorted and blew the cap (condenser) and I'm not paying another $30 (purchased 5 from ebay for $10). Removing the flywheel and starter cup constantly will render the current nut and bolt beyond serviceable life.

Electronic ignition module question

I'm considering fitting an electronic ignition module for less money than the mower shops condenser but I need my mower somewhat quick to do my yard. I'll run it as it is when I get the condenser and hope the nut and screw hold.

Do I have to replace the ignition coil for the electronic module to work?

Sorry, my head is all over the place I have a lot going on at the moment, didn't mean this to be a rambling.

All of the Victa full-crank 2-stroke rotary mower engines had 1/2"-16 BSF threads on both ends.

The long nut is fairly easy to find, as it was used in combination with the lanyard type starter pulley on the earliest models. It also saw use on some later models, if retrofitting a pulley in place of a wire rope or impulse starter.

So just about any 2-stroke Victa wreck with a lanyard pulley will have one.

The stepped bolt will be a bit more difficult. I'd be looking at getting a 1" long 1/2" BSF hex set screw [which are fully threaded], making a slip-on locating collar for it, and cutting it to length.

There are a few specialist fastener suppliers who have these. A Google for 'BSF set screw' finds a few.
Blackwoods are probably the easiest to find, and they list them: https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/01620706/screw-set-hex-brt-bsf-12x1

Thanks again Gadge!

I obtained an old nut, a little worn from the mower shop and the owner kindly loaned me a 1/2" BSF tap to run through and clean the thread a little (though it's somewhat loose). I'm going to call in at my local bearing and bolts centre today and see if he has a bolt and might obtain a couple of standard nuts and weld them together, then run the tap through to repair the shrinkage from welding (I'll put them together on a bolt to align the thread and tack them). That should give me an equivalent height stand off nut.

Any ideas on the electronic ignition module or does that question belong in another sub forum?

This is the right forum, but more attention may be attracted if you post that question on its own.

I've only had experience with the original aftermarket Electronic Ignition Modules, that Atom Industries made, up to about ten years ago. These were made to work with the OEM coils, and I doubt that later ones are much different.

It may be necessary to fit an insulated terminal to the coil primary lead, but that's about all. Note that these modules need to be externally mounted, for cooling.

The ODK Shop has THIS module type; it's probably worth asking them about it.

you need to get a module suited for a 2 stroke not a 4 stroke as they are timed differntly. the one in the link above is correct for a victa 2 stroke

I have been having a few spark troubles myself with my old points full crank 125. Is there any reason I can't pull a matching coil and ignition module from a half crank to convert it to electronic? I assume the half cranks use the same static timing so it should work shouldn't it?

yes that will work . i have done it to plenty of them.

try this thread
https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=30654

Pure gold. Thanks Gizmo exactly as I thought.
So that answers the time old question half cranks are useful for ignition, carby and pistons.

My 74 full crank 160 has a totally different coil and stator system to the 66 Mayfair. It has external magnets on the flywheel and an externally mounted coil. It's not interchangeable with my 66. They are both full crank but one is 160CC while the old Mayfair is 125CC.