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#72598 15/02/16 03:52 AM
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 637
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
I recently bought this Victa from Toowoomba Swap Meet, It needs a fair bit of work, but it is in an OK condition. I have been told it is a Victa Viceroy and apparently there rare, so i might keep this one. I will replace the barrel as it is from an earlier Victa, then i will fix the axles. At first sight i thought that the exhaust was custom and that i would have to replace it, but on the other side of the swap meet i found the exact same type of exhaust! so i was wondering if perhaps, these exhausts were sold with some victa's in Queensland?

The mower
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
The Exhaust
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Thanks for reading
Kye


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Portal Box 6
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 637
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
I can't seem to find the engine codes on this mower. eek Its making me scared haha!


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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 637
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
Alright, engine and axles are off. I will post my progress of taking the engine apart soon. Any tips about taking the flywheel of?


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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 322
Forum Historian
Hi Kye
The safest way is the flywheel puller.
Most come off without issue.

Cheers
------------------
Jack

Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 637
Likes: 1
Qualified Senior
Thanks Cyber I always seem to have trouble pulling of Victa flywheels for some reason. I have gotten the Cylinder and piston off, and have half the bolts on the crankcase off. Will finish it off tomorrow!


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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 387
Apprentice level 4
Hey Kye I like to give them a drink of WD40, Inox or what ever is at hand and let it sit. If it's still a bugger maybe give it a day or so.


This
Is going straight to the pool room.
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 637
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I haven't tied to get the flywheel off this one yet slash, that will hopefully come tomorrow.


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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
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Moderator
Yep, a steady pull is the best way to shift a Victa flywheel. Remember, they mount on a parallel shaft, so there's no taper lock to overcome. That requires impact!

But they can become rust-bound, if the mower has been left out in the weather.

As I'm fond of citing, the engineer's rule of thumb is that iron rust occupies seven times the volume of the metal from which it was formed...

I don't favour WD40 - it's not bad for displacing water, but it doesn't penetrate very well, and is a lousy lubricant.
CRC 5-56, Inox/Lanox, Penetrene, Castrol DWF are all far superior; so is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Automatic Transmission Fluid.

A bit of heat [electric hot air gun - not flame] applied to the flywheel centre often helps, too.

I tend to make flywheel removal the first-up job, before the engine is removed from the chassis.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."

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