OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Restoring, Customising and Modifying Reel-Type Mowers SB45 restoration - clutch issue and drive issue

Hi everyone,

Am new to this forum and have recently obtained a SB45 to restore. Pics attached. I initially just want to get it running and then will look at updating the paint job etc down the track. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I have replace a few parts - successfully the cutter adjusters both LH and RH. There are 2 main issues 1. Clutch not disengaging - cutter always rotating and 2. Self propel not working.

1. Clutch not disengaging - in an attempt to solve this I replaced the clutch cone lining and clutch cone. I have also moved the clutch away from the motor and made several attempts at adjusting the lever and screw underneath it without success. The cutter is still engaged. Any assistance is appreciated. See pics.

2. Self propel not working - initially the self propel would not engage then it seemed to free itself and it worked. When it was working it was hard to control and quiet fast. I attempted to adjust the cable tension however this result in the drive clutch lining being spat out the back. I think I may have tighten it all up too much. I have since replaced it but am now having trouble adjusting it all. Any assistance is appreciated.

Some of the possible causes to problem 1: I looked at some of the forums and notice that I did not glue down the cork clutch cone lining. Should I do this. What glue should I use. I have also noticed that the one of the clutch shaft keys are missing - next to the lever.

Some of possible causes to problem 2: I have not glued down the cork lining. Should I do this. Also any tips on adjusting the cable.

I cant seem to add my pics. I will try these later.

Hi - here are some pictures

[img]https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=RkrxfQw9u2Clg7n7Nhqu6q35TWQ&cd=i[/img]
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=FFJe1dFP-R5DLLqTrsKr_6bReuw&cd=i
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=H-JluxL7f-hXHnpqfuk9J_DERdw&cd=i
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=VFKOEd9l6cJ5wMMSq07I1flo418&cd=i
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=xOaGpQGhj3DQ1FwuoAOmYM62pMI&cd=i
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=7gdKy406sYTq_NEbQeX2hnSciqM&cd=i
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=Nfs8FfOT1rUDkuQLI-FHHy6T8YA&cd=i
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=jYFqx9LVA2tnnAgr7GYr3QD2BvQ&cd=i
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=v3SMdjwX-dRklmpvm9ATjbhofCU&cd=i
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=KZQB04dl6VAqzTsIN0C_6E-jz1I&cd=i
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=XjSvOMac08qBJA1eic3zl5BJuaI&cd=i
https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=mDPPAUyJLbkw_smIiFTOF7hAgAk&cd=i

Hi model numbers below and another pic

Mower No 02263
Model No 450538

[img:center]https://cvws.icloud-content.com/B/A...p;s=zNKWDePcVstTNIkiyZBnCWC-HPQ&cd=i[/img]

Hello Bass,

I see there are problems with viewing these images.
The better way may be to uploqad them to out server.

Here is how to upload images HERE.

Cheers
-------------------
Jack

Cheers Jack for the tip. That was much easier. Photos attached below. Thanks Bass
















[img]https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/u...ll-9790-25743-cable_tensioner_spring.jpg[/img]

Hi Bass,

Well you most certainly have a mower there with a number of issues that will be affecting the machines performance.

I shall put all these issues into dot points.

1, The engine looks to be misaligned with the clutch.

2, The chassis frame has either had issues or still has issues due to the welding that's been done.

3, The Black plastic thrust pad is shickered.

4, Your Clutch body I feel is also a major contributor of your problems as it's an old flogged out alloy unit which someone has attempted to resurrect by adding the extra grub screws when the body should've been replaced and that was the original issue that's cracked the chassis which has ended up with the welding being done.

5, Your clutch body is not in the correct position on the Engines PTO shaft. It should be only around 2 to 4 mm's away from the engine block.

Now taking all this into consideration, my first plan would be to slowly pull the starter cord and watch how the clutch body revolves. It must rotate perfectly without any wobble in the body being evident. If any wobble exists then the clutch should be rendered as scrap metal.

Let me know how that goes before we go any further.


Cheers,
BB

Thanks BB. Yes there were issues with the machine previously and the motor was replaced and welding up of some previous issues. The clutch body position is around 8 mm from the engine body as I moved it. I did have it closer to the Engine PTO shaft. I moved it a few mm as I thought it was too close. I can move this back. When running it this morning all was rotating and running fine. I will double check to make sure its rotating perfectly without any wobble in the body being evident. I will let you know this evening.

Hi BB,

There is wobble in the body when it revolves. Not much but it is there and you can see it. Without replacing it can I continue to use it. Is there any other solution. I was thinking of removing the engine again as I have to glue down the clutch cork as well as reposition the motor closer.

Thanks Bass.

Hi BB - a bit more investigating. There is a shim in the clutch body where the engine shaft fits into it.I suspect this is due to the new motor and the shaft not fitting properly. This shim also doesnt allow for the key to fit perfectly into it as its a bit shewed. The key does go into it but I think the shim may have worn. I have also noticed that some the sections where the keys fit into are worn. See pics

Hi Bass,

Well all I can say is throw that clutch out, it's never going to work correctly for you. It's either a flogged out original that's been butchered or it's a 3/4 that's been crudely modified down to fit a 5/8 shaft.

Honestly don't even try to salvage it as they are a disposable commodity. Once you get a new clutch half and a thrust pad we can work on getting it going properly.

Also before you do this you'll have to remove the engine and while you are doing that can you please take some good close up shots of the rails where the engine bolts down on to. This will give me a better picture of what else we are up against.

Cheers for now,

BB

Thanks BB - I will get a new one. Attached are the photos of the rails. The rail was level even though there is a new weld there. I have also attached and a photo of the engine shaft diameter to make sure it will fit a new clutch half. Can you check this as well before I buy a new clutch half. Thanks heaps BB for you help.

Cheers Bass

Hi Bass,

Do not purchase a clutch half as yet.

Sadly more bad news is on the horizon.

From where I'm sitting it looks like those rails are stress fractured in many directions. Your photos are not accurate enough as I really should've said take vertical shots of the rails (looking straight down). Anyway if someone has already taking to the rail with a welder on the vertical plane of the rail you can bet your bottom dollar that there are fractures all through the horizontal section where the engine bolts down on to. This will have to be repaired by a competent welder (trades person)
or it will become nothing more than a corkscrew that's totally useless.

Just hitting those fractures with a welder will induce way too much heat and the end result will make it curtains, thus a competent tradesman will know all about heat and shrinkage etc.

Please can you put up some directly from above and close up shots around the engine mount holes.

Speak soon.

Cheers,
BB

Hi BB,

More pics of the rails. Thanks Bass

Hi Bass,

Well you have a decision to make, do you push on and get the chassis repaired ? or do you quit now as the chassis can no longer be used as it is? This is because the platform the engine is bolted to is not a stable one and it will eventually suffer toal rail failure. Clutch issues are the major thing that can not be rectified while the rails are in this current state.

I shall give you a link as how best to recitfy this problem.

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=64426#Post64426

Have a good read through this thread and you'll see what needs to be done.

Cheers
BB

Thanks BB. I read through it all. I'm going to get someons to fix the rails the same as the one in the thread you sent. I'll go ahead with a new clutch half as well. I'll keep you posted with the updates.

Hi Bass,

Well that's good news, just ensure that when the gusset is tacked in that the original engine mounting nuts are also tied into the gusset as that's where all the strength lies for the engine to be remounted.




Cheers,
BB

Thanks BB - in Mr Jones post he said that they grinded out the cracks and then welded them up. Do you think it is necessary for my one to grind out the stress fractures or will the gusset be sufficient as the cracks are not as bad as Mr Jones rails were. What do you think.

regards,

Bass

Hi Bass,

After the gussets are welded into place I would still groove out the fractures and weld them up, then grind perfectly flat as this way you are using both sections of metal for strength and not just loading up all the stress onto the gusset.

I know it's a bit more work but in the end it will pay off.

Cheers,
BB

Ok sounds good. Thanks heaps.

Hi BB,

I have the rails in getting welded might be a wait on that. I have the new clutch half. How do I get the bearing into the clutch half. Can you also tell me which is the right way up for the bearing. Pics below.

Thanks Bass