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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,374
know nothing
depends how bad the idle is ? might just start a new set of problems for yourself too though , they were never a real smooth idling thing really

Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,391
Likes: 4
HT6 Offline
De-registered
Agreed.....They are a rough idler,and a decarb may make it worse. Also you will probably need to reset everything again. It looks as though youve done a good job of getting the best out of a tired old engine. Id be happy you dont need to rebuild it for now.

If its just a bit shaky and tinny at idle,but smooth through the throttle range,then you wont get much better... Your call if you want to play around and learn, and also how far you really want to go for a perfect runner, which in my opinion is unachievable. They are Just naturally a rough old machine.




Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 22
Novice
Thanks for the info boys by the sounds of it i've got the mower running well enough so I'm going to restore it and post up some pictures once its done. I've got all the bits and pieces and even have the original victa special sign. I've got the option of either the old fashioned pullstart or automatic rewind starter. I'm unsure on what one to use.... Which do you think would be the better one for the restoration?

Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,374
know nothing
if its a resto' use the old pullstarter . whats on it now ? depends on really what model it is could be either

Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 22
Novice
Hi I've just finished restoring an old VICTA 18. I've got a problem with fuel leaking around the petrol cap which isn't any good for the paint on the tank. I've got 2 fuel caps and they both seem in good order. I've tried both but the petrol squirts out the little vent hole in the top of the cap. This happens very quickly as soon as the mower kicks over. I've even got a clear plastic sealer for between the tank and the cap and this didn't help. The petrol tank is only about quarter full certainly not over full. Any ideas on what might help because this is driving me nuts and already the tank needs repainting.

Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 22
Novice
[Linked Image from i59.tinypic.com]

Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,391
Likes: 4
HT6 Offline
De-registered
Punch out or cut a circular piece of 2-3 mm cork sheeting that will be a slip in fit in the clear plastic cap baffle. Make sure it doesnt go higher so it still retains an air gap when you put the baffle back in the cap.

Pierce a 1- 1.5 mm hole( or same size as the cap vent hole) halfway between the centre and the rim, and place the cork in the baffle recess, then fit the baffle in the cap.

The cork will absorb some fuel and the offset hole should also slow it.

Not perfect always,but Ive not found a much better way.

Another option is to make a vented cap using a small inline fuel filter incorperated into the cap, or an overflow system. Both will work,but at the cost of orginalty. Use the Filtered caps for mowing and original cap for display?

Try the cork and see if it works for you first.

Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 22
Novice
Thanks HT6 for your help. I put the cork in like you said which helped but the petrol was still running out the sides. I was lucky enough to find a plumbing washer that was a perfect fit to go into the fuel cap. Now with the cork and washer it seals perfectly.

Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,391
Likes: 4
HT6 Offline
De-registered
Well done VV, I love a good outcome....

Sorry Id missed the part about it coming out from under the cap and focussed solely on the breather spraying problem and would have suggested an oring seal or washer for the issue. But you worked that bit out on your own smile

I also use washers occasionally as the hard plastic cap is not always a good seal even with the baffle insert, especially if the tank neck surface has any imperfections.

The metal rotomo caps just usually require a perfect fit cork washer with offset hole to seal.

With this issue sorted, I can now say....WOW! What A fantastic restoration of your Model 5 S1 Special. Beautiful paint and detail, Well done.




Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 22
Novice
Thanks.... The electrical points seem to be a bit of a headache for me as the engine has lost spark and I'm going to have to pull it all apart again. Has anyone put an electronic ignition module on a Victa 18. Are they trouble free and do they perform well. I see they are available on the site

https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1105

Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,374
know nothing
thats only the module for the powertorque though . easy to reset now you know how , it sometimes happens and is still annoying for sure , but once its redone all should be good .
one i did too was the same , blew a head gasket fixed that then a short time after it ran like a dog , somehow the points opened up ?! fixed that and never another worry

Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 62
Trainee
hello, i have a victa special that does not spark the spark plug however, it gives me a tingle what do you think is wrong, if i need a new ignition module can i use something like this. refer to image- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Victa-18-Ignition/283208663830?hash=item41f08d4316:g:GiIAAOSwlRJbclqP:rk:13:pf:0

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Last edited by dmitr; 06/11/18 11:11 AM.
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 8,087
Likes: 221
SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Make sure the plug wire is screwed tightly into the coil, screw it out and back in just to make sure. Coil may be weak, hard to tell, condenser may be a problem as well. If you get one of these type of module you don't need the points or condenser. If you fit one of these and spark is still weak then the coil is the problem
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Ignition-Module-Suit-Victa-Briggs-More/302679164835

Last edited by NormK; 06/11/18 03:06 PM.
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