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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 12
Novice
I have removed the set screws from the cover and loosened it, but I can't get it to move more than about 3mm. It appears to be held by a bearing on the crank shaft. Do I need a special puller? Or is something else I'm not familiar with holding the cover?
Michoolie

Last edited by Michoolie; 13/06/15 10:20 PM.
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,926
Likes: 10
Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
I think we need a picture of the crankshaft extension (the PTO) where it emerges from the crankcase. It is common for there to be a build-up of hard crud there, which won't pass through the main bearing bore. However if this is on an SB45 it is also not rare for a previous tenant to have put a sleeve over the PTO to keep the clutch from sliding toward the engine. If that has been done, you need to take the sleeve off first. So, pictures please.

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 12
Novice
Thanks. The engine is from a Victa Imperial barrel mower, has a longitudinal keyway, and is quite clean. I thought it may be buildup of muck on the shaft and if there is any it is obviously hidden from view at the moment.
I'll go and do some more pushing, shoving and tapping with my hammer and wooden dowel.
Michoolie

Joined: Jan 2009
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The reason I suspect a ring of hardened crud, aside from having seen it repeatedly on Briggs engines, is that you said you can pull the cover off for some distance before it jams. Usually that distance is exactly the distance from the outer lip of the oil seal to the outside edge of the main bearing. In other words, you can move the cover until the crud ring hits the bearing.

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 12
Novice
Good O. I understand the problem - but how can I clean off the crud when there is no way of getting to it? Even if I made a puller I wouldn't feel happy about using it on the Aluminium alloy cover. I made one to help with the removal of the fly wheel, but it is a much more robust device even though it also is alloy. Also, the crank shaft is not in the centre of the crank case cover so the force on the sides would be uneven.
Any suggestions??
Also, there are two other replies: how do I access them?

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 12
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I'd still like some suggestions about how I can get out of this predicament!
Michoolie

Joined: Jan 2009
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I'd need to see pictures of the shaft and crankcase cover, with the cover in the installed position. At the moment I just don't have enough to go on.

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 12
Novice
I tried attaching a photo but without success.
I clicked on the link below and a large version of the photo appeared but for some reason it is not attached to this comment. Maybe the same will happen for you! I'm not familiar with the operation of this setup yet.


[Linked Image]

Hello Michoolie
I've inserted that photo for you.
Information for attaching photos HERE.

Last edited by CyberJack; 16/06/15 03:02 AM. Reason: Insert photo
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 12
Novice
Thanks. Has it helped you to think up my next move?
A friend suggested that I may be able to remove the oil seal and get at the shaft to clean it.
Michoolie

Last edited by Michoolie; 16/06/15 09:35 PM.
Joined: Jan 2009
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Pushrod Honda preferrer
***
First, the keyway is damaged on the crankshaft:
[Linked Image]


It isn't really good enough to use at this point. Was the engine on a Scott Bonnar 45 mower? That mower has a strong tendency to cause this kind of damage, but by the time it has happened, the engine support rails are usually cracked or even broken, as well.

IIRC that oil seal can only be removed by drilling a couple of holes in its metal cover and using them to prise it out. If you are going to proceed with an engine overhaul, that process is a standard part of it. However without knowing more about the mower, and your overall enthusiasm for persisting with this engine, I can't advise you whether it is worth proceeding.

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 12
Novice
Thanks for the reply and suggestions. It's from a Victa Imperial barrel mower.

I was only intending to replace the set of rings.
I don't think I'd spend the time and effort on honing the bore and fitting an over-sized piston. There isn't a lot of work for it here but I'd like to get it back into working order for a small area of lawn. Our ride-on handles the bulk of our 3 acres!

What are the chances of getting a new oil seal at ODK?
Parts for the HK25 seem to be hard to find in Aust. I've found some suppliers in USA but would much rather support an Australian company.
Michoolie


Last edited by Michoolie; 17/06/15 03:04 AM.
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 12
Novice
I am having trouble locating a PTO side oil seal for the HK25 model engine.
Is there another model number that I could use to find that uses the same seal??
Michoolie

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 12
Novice
Even on the US sites there appears to be no record of the HK25 model.
Can I assume that the 'K' is for Kirby (Aust. distributer) and select an oil seal to suit the H25 model??
Michoolie

Last edited by Michoolie; 19/06/15 07:56 AM.
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HT6 Offline
De-registered
Im sure This has been covered before?

Also I Thought this engine was a H30?


https://www.outdoorking-forum.com.au/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=37736&page=all

Pto shaft has a circlip behind the seal and in front of the bearing, which will need to be taken off before the case can be removed...If your still looking for a solution smile






Joined: Jan 2009
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Pushrod Honda preferrer
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Thanks for that Blue, I recalled that the solution to the mystery required removing the oil seal, but that was as far as my recollection went. I knew the specific answer was in Mr Bonnar's thread, and should have referenced it.

Yes Michoolie, the K in HK is for Kirby. James N. Kirby "manufactured" the engines in Australia under licence from Tecumseh/Lauson, importing most of the parts, back in the days of the stupendous tariff barriers which largely kept Briggs engines out of Australia. Hence you will not find the HK numbers to have any counterpart in US documents or US parts suppliers. Also, Kirby did something of a mix and match with the feature selection, so their engines are mongrel models and therefore slightly difficult to track in US workshop manuals: they may have some bits from one Lauson model and other bits from another Lauson model.

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 12
Novice
I've been hunting through a number of US sites and not having much luck with an oil seal. It looks like I may have to order using H30 rather than H25 as the model number. The Lauson parts list indicates that these two models share a number of identical parts.
If I knew the oil seal's dimensions maybe I could get another brand that would fit. One site had what I thought was the correct seal and had its dimensions which were obviously a lot different to mine - e.g. the OD was much different.
Cheers
Mike

Last edited by Michoolie; 23/06/15 09:50 PM.
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HT6 Offline
De-registered
The OD of the seal you require is larger than the std lower engine case seal of the Kirby, Lauson (eg LAV 30 HK25 VK 30) and some tecumseh engines.

This I suspect is the one you found, as its still readily available.

Im sure I saw your seal on ebay under H30. Alternatively, take it to a seal/ bearing supplier and see if they can match it.

Also check The online store under Tecumseh, it may actually be there.

Joined: Nov 2013
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Forum Historian
Hello Michoolie

It's an eye opener that you are having this amount of trouble.
If you do not have measuring equipment, why not take the sump
and c'shaft to your local bearing supplier - as HT6 suggested?

They can measure it and supply a catalogue oil seal.
Obviously, also indicate the seal's application.
This is a common practice for oil seals.

Hope this helps.
-----------------------------
JACK


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