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#61354 27/01/15 02:28 AM
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Novice
OK, first of all, I'm really not sure if I have this in the right forum so mods please move if needed.

I recently bought an old push mower (non-engine) 2ndhand. I *think* it is a Pope Wimbledon model. It has 7 blades and I've included pics below. It doesn't seem to cut the grass properly. As in, I can't get it to move properly (as opposed to it moving fine but not cutting grass). I've also included a link to a youtube vid to show what I mean. I'm guessing parts are not on correctly or not adjusted correctly. Everything I've read says that these things should be nice and smooth to push when they work.

I have two main goals here:
1) Get it working correctly and well
2) Potentially restore it to a nice shiny condition, rather than what it is now.

If I could achieve either of these through this forum I'd be wrapped. So, basically I'm asking whether there'd be anyone who'd be willing to guide me through one or both of those things either here or by PM? I'd need a fairly patient person (!) since my handyman knowledge is not the best. I don't know the names of the parts, or what certain bits are for. I really want to get it in good working order so I can use it.

Well, I'll post the pics and video and go from there.

Video:


[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Portal Box 6
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 304
Forum Historian
Hello user101!

A warm welcome to the ODK forums.
I think we can help you here.

I'll give you a bit of background shortly...

Okay, I know this machine pretty well.
The first thing for you to do is download the manual, so you may understand
the terminology. This can be done HERE.

Please reply when you have read the manual.
--------------------------------------------------
JACK.


Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Novice
Hello Jack and thanks for the welcome, and the hope you've given me. smile

I've downloaded and read the manual. Having said that, I still found some parts confusing, and most of the terminology for the parts list I don't know about. I guess the good thing is my mower has all its parts (although what state they're in is another matter).

Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 304
Forum Historian
Hello user101,

Okay, you don;t need to know every part name.
The main ones you need to know are these:

[working from the manual]
The 'cutting cylinder' is often called the reel (I prefer 'reel')
The 'cutter bar' is often called the 'sole plate' or 'bottom block'
Attached to this block by screws is a 'fixed blade' or 'bedknife'or 'bottom blade'

Now, I've looked at the video.
The most obvious thing that really stands out from you photograph(s) is
that the sole plate and its bedknife is touching on the ground. This is a big no-no.
In your photo (reproduced below) the height is set to the absolute minimum.

[Linked Image]

Go back to the manual and set the height to at least half way by loosening each knob
on the roller brackets. Your machine is skidding along the grass.
The sole plate should not touch the grass at all. The back roller should.

The next step is then to post a close up of the reel and sole plate taken
from underneath from the front of the machine. We need to see the condition
and thickness of the bottom blade or 'bedknife' and reel or 'cylinder'

I have included a YouTube video of a similar but modern machine.
Please note the concept of adjusting the reel to bedknife (discussed in your manual).

Cheers
------------------------
JACK.

[video]
[/video]


Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Novice
Jack,

This will probably be the start of you thinking "what have I done by agreeing to help this person" but here goes.

I looked under "Adjustment of Height of Cut". I went to turn the black knob on either side, the ones you've put the red arrow towards. The left one, the knob just unscrewed right off the screw. The right one didn't budge. Are they what I'm supposed to be turning? If so, it seems like they've totally jammed up.


Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 304
Forum Historian
Hello user101!

Okay, I'm thinking ...

...

I'm still thinking ...
'Internet sensations' have been made out of less than this.

What you have confirmed is that the roller was set at the lowest setting in the Video.
The above picture (with my infamous red arrow) shows washers that shouldn't be there anyway.

... Let's change tack, and assess the condition of the bottom blade and tyres.
Can we have a close-up of the bottom blade taken from the front?
Also, can we have a close-up of the condition of the tyres? There seems to be some damage.

[Linked Image]

This will help in assessing how to proceed in this matter.

----------------------------------
JACK.







Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Novice
Jack

I've included some pics below. I hope they're the right thing and angles. In order to adjust the height, can I try some wd40, or is that a "no-no" or just not worth it? I'm guessing the presence of the washers indicates that the height may be somehow "permanently fixed".
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 304
Forum Historian
Hi user101 and ODK Members & Guests

They're great photos that tell the story here. To address this, this won't be an easy or short post.

I'll take the issues in turn: You said:-
I'm guessing the presence of the washers indicates that the height may be somehow "permanently fixed".

I think not, the washers were added because the knobs have just worn out.
The knobs seem to be beyond their service life, and the washers were added to secure the brackets.

The Wimbledon used four of these fasteners: two on the rear roller brackets; two on the curved
plate behind the reel (or cylinder). The difference was in how the screw was inserted:

[Linked Image]

The best way would be to simply grind off the heads of the bolts and free
the bolts from the roller brackets. Replace them with the better, deflector bolts and knobs.
[assuming the brackets are in good condition]

This, however, will not solve your objectives:-
You said this:

I have two main goals here:
1) Get it working correctly and well
2) Potentially restore it to a nice shiny condition, rather than what it is now.


Looking at your recent photographs, I do not think this machine is economic to repair
as a regular-use lawnmower. The bottom blade is worn out and the reel (cylinder)
does require re-grinding. This is very expensive.

Second, the tyre rubber is clearly deteriorating. New replacement parts are not available
for Pope Wimbledons.

The bottom line is: unless this machine has some sentimental value, meeting your
objectives may not be economical.

That's a pity, because Pope Wimbledon's were superb lawnmowers.

[NOTE: Having said that, the best advice would be to contact a local repairer that
sharpens reels and can manufacture a new bottom blade. If this can be done within your
budget then we can assist in helping you disassemble and re-assemble the machine - CJ]

You have highlighted a real issue in push reel-lawnmower restorations user101.
This is a complex issue: the desire to 'make live' an old mower versus the cost
of doing so. I await your response.

I hope this helps.
------------------------------------------
JACK.




Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
Moderator
Originally Posted by user101
I looked under "Adjustment of Height of Cut". I went to turn the black knob on either side, the ones you've put the red arrow towards. The left one, the knob just unscrewed right off the screw. The right one didn't budge. Are they what I'm supposed to be turning? If so, it seems like they've totally jammed up.

These knobs are just the locking screws for the adjustment. It should be possible to loosen them; if not, it's time for some penetrating lubricant [CRC 5-56, Inox/Lanox, Penetrene - not WD-40].

The quadrant shaped 'roller brackets' should be free to move, but don't look like they are. These provide the actual cutting height adjustment. Some more penetrating lube, and probably removal to clean up rust between these brackets and the chassis, is indicated.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Novice
Gadge and Jack,
Thanks for your replies. It's been very wet where I am and I haven't had time to do much with it lately. But I was going to ask whether if I could step back and actually adjust the height, that would change things. What confuses me is that when I tested it (before I paid for it) it cut the grass perfectly. It rolled as it should and there was no indication that the grass wasn't being properly cut. So I'm surprised to hear that the cutting blade probably needs replacing.

Gadge, what's wrong with WD-40?

Jack, I would at least like to have a go at getting it working, even if I can't restore it. I'm not sure what you mean by economically not worth it, perhaps you're saying that it would be cheaper for me to buy a new one?

By the way, can someone explain how to get this system to send me an email when someone replies to a post?

Last edited by user101; 31/01/15 09:16 PM.
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 304
Forum Historian
Hi user101, Moderator Gadge and ODK members & Guests

Yes, I do not believe I handled your questions well at all.
I think I was too focused on your restoration objective than your first objective.
However, the bottom blade is very thin - it may have a season's work left in it.

Gadge will answer your question of WD-40 (I'm not the expert on these fluids).
I will get an answer for you on the email notification question.

So, lets deal with the primary issue I identified (height):-
[Linked Image]

As Gadge said, the adjuster bracket (9) has notched serrations in it for quick
height adjustment. Knob/nut (18)has a chamfer that meets the bracket to set the height.

Your photo shows washers; suggesting that either the bracket is worn, or the knob/nut chamfer.
Whatever case, the low height of cut will greatly impede use of this mower.

We need to loosen the fasteners and adjust the height; so that we can exclude height of cut
as a factor in the machine being difficult to push - and cut grass.

Note that screw (17) is slotted (for a screw driver). Have you tried loosening the screws
this way?

JACK.





Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,291
Likes: 4
Master Technician
***
Hi there user101 I have (I think) the same model just without the deflector shield and catcher.
If you need any or all of it for parts just let me know.It's just sitting here taking up space and generally getting in the road..
Here's some pictures.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
Let me know what you think.I can box it up and make it smaller to save on freight if you are interested.Prefer to see it go to good use,Or on my next scrap run away it will go.


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Novice
OK, firstly, apologies to everyone in advance. And thanks in advance for whoever sticks with this thread. I still feel clueless about the names of the different parts, and what they do. Yes, I've read the manual (more than once). I just don't "see" it. If it helps, and you have trouble with algebra, just think of your reaction to algebra and that'll give you some idea of what I'm feeling here. Like a fool...

Anyway, I decided to do something different and try to disassemble the machine as much as I could. Bad move? Probably. But I thought we weren't getting anywhere in its current state so why not?

First, Blumbly, thanks for your kind offer. Don't throw it out yet. I may well need some of those parts but at this point I don't know. Hopefully we'll know soon.

Jack, according to your diagrams above, I note that I don't have any slotted screw (17). It's just not there. All that was there was those black knobs sitting over the bolt-thing.

For now, what I'm going to do is include the photos I took of the parts disassembled, in the order I disassembled. I will comment after each one and then await further thoughts. If anyone needs better closeups of anything, just let me know.

[Linked Image]
the handle and deflector plate

[Linked Image]

these are the knobs which go on the bolts which somewhere should have slots for a screwdriver but don't. Also the washers which were noted before.

[Linked Image]

not sure what this is and whether there are actually 2 parts rather than just one.

[Linked Image]
these nuts and washers went somewhere but I can't remember where. They came off in sequence with the other photos

[Linked Image]
The wheels, showing the nuts and bolts etc and (for me) the order which things were attached

[Linked Image]

this gear thing was also on the wheel

[Linked Image]
these three cylindrical parts "fell out" next

[Linked Image]
the main frame. I tried removing the side parts from the reel but couldn't.

[Linked Image]

the inside

[Linked Image]
the outside on one side

[Linked Image]

the outside on the other side

[Linked Image]

two random things that dropped out from somewhere which I don't know what they are

Now, pulling up one of those photos,
[Linked Image]

I get the impression I'm supposed to be able to put a screwdriver in this part and remove it, in order to remove the height adjuster thing. But I don't have one that'll do it.

At the end of all this, I fear we are still no closer to being able to adjust the height!

Bottom line: if the general consensus is that I am better off writing this off and buying a new or newer mower, just let me know. I'm starting to think that myself.

Last edited by CyberJack; 01/02/15 10:47 AM. Reason: Updated photos
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,291
Likes: 4
Master Technician
***
As for you last picture and whether you need a undo that pin.NO you don't,that is just a pin to hold the front roller on.The only way to remove it is to cut it off,but once its off it won't go back on,unless welded,so unless it is very worn then just leave it there.
Sounds like you have gone to far to soon and now you got yourself all flustered.That happens.
I think there was too much focus on the height adjuster there not that hard to adjust.The first picture CyberJack put up on the right is the height adjuster you can see the teeth and the different settings to where the front roller sits(Inside the red circle in the picture below).Also there is another adjuster near the blades but too late now.
Also there (In the green circle) is the non-removable pin for the roller in your last picture.
[Linked Image]

I guess the thing that faces you now,is.
Is it worth your time to do?
Do you want to do it?
Do you want to learn about?
If you wanted to restore it your now in the right spot to do so.
It all depends on what you want to do.If you think it's done then it's done.No good listen to other people and you will get mixed answers as some will be on either side of the fence.
The big question is.....What do you want to do?
The only manual I can see there and find is an owners manual so don't get dis-guarded by that you need a workshop manual and I'm not sure anybody would have one.
So just ask your self,
Do you want to do it?


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Novice
Hey Blumbly,

I want two main things: 1) not to annoy other people through this process, and 2) to get the mower cutting grass. The bonus would be a restoration, but when push comes to shove, I will happily settle for a working mower. My main annoyance with things is the frustration I have with myself for not knowing about this stuff. It is what it is. Anyway, yes, I want to get a working mower. What's next do you think?

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,291
Likes: 4
Master Technician
***
If your going to restore it.Then check the parts are usable then start the painting process,but if your going to restore it,it is a far bigger job than just putting back together in a working order.I seen the video of it,it didn't look that bad just some adjusting and lubing,but now it's a much bigger job.So really you need to work out how far your going to go.Like when I restore a mower I pull it apart check every part and replace anything not usable.Work out whether it's a full restore (Most are)and then prepare each and every part paint etc etc.
So I guess you need to know how far you want to go.
That's the first thing you need to work out.
How far do you want to go?
As a build like this even on this forum is going to take time.
Do you want to restore ?
or Just put back together?


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Novice
Put back together and get it working. smile

Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 14
Moderator
Originally Posted by user101
Gadge, what's wrong with WD-40?
It's just that it is not intended as a penetrating lubricant, and isn't at all a good one. It is good for dewatering exposed surfaces, and that's about it.

It performs poorly on both the penetration, and especially lubrication, counts. In fact if the petroleum distillate carrier is evaporated off, a brown sticky gum is the residue. Which clags things up, rather than freeing them!
Quote
By the way, can someone explain how to get this system to send me an email when someone replies to a post?
Click on the 'FAQ' button in the forum menu bar, then open the topic 'How do Watch Lists work?'. This explains how to set it up.


Cheers,
Gadge

"ODK Mods can explain it to you, but they can't understand it for you..."

"Crazy can be medicated, ignorance can be educated - but there is no cure for stupid..."
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,291
Likes: 4
Master Technician
***
OK then did you take pictures of it as you were pulling it apart?


Here for a good time,not a long time.
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16
Novice
No. But I put all the parts on the ground in the order in which I pulled them apart.

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