OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers Model 33 lubrication & Maintenance

Hi there...amazing forum, great info!!
I hope I havent missed it in here, but I wondered if there is a quick maintenance guide floating around as to where to lubricate..how often...what to tighten/adjust and etc

thanks in advance!!

Hi waikphys, welcome to Outdoorking.

The Model 33 is fairly rare, and I don't believe we have an owner manual for it: the only item in our Manuals section is an illustrated parts list.

Hopefully someone familiar with that mower will help us out here.

Hello waikphys and Global Mod. Grumpy,

I also welcome you to these ODK forums.
It's nice to see another SB33 user! These are nice machines.
They are the precursor to the Model 45 design, still used as a template for
modern reel mowers made today.

I think Grumpy is correct in saying that we do not have an Operator's Manual
for the 33 as yet...

Apart from obvious maintenance, the main concern would be whether your machine has
unsealed bearings on the reel. If so, they would need oiling every use. Generally,
the modern practice is to used totally sealed bearings, and this probably would
have occurred during a sharpen and set.

Hopefully, an experienced member may be able to supply additional information for you.
In the meantime, I hope this helps.

Any pictures of your machine, including a close-up of the serial plate, would be most welcome.

------------------------------------
JACK.

Hello waikphys and all other ODK members,

Could you please be so kind as to supply us with some close up photos of all the drivetrain with the cover removed and some other general close up shots rg clutch area etc., from there we can give you a bit more of an accurate heads up on what needs doing.

Cheers,
BB

I sure can post some pics, will get to it shortly
So from what I have learned from reading here, it is a later model as it is belt and chain drive and obviously has a later model motor.

I am trying to work out what regular maintenance needs to be done, ie grease the chains....oil into the little holes by the clutch etc?

Also watched the ODK videos on the 45 which were great, and gained the impression I can rotate the blades to use that sharp edge, but without looking into it too deeply may need some advice on how to get them out.

From a quick look, the blades have a screw facing up and a screw facing down which I assume need to be fiddled with to get ideal alignment!!

Also I am thinking due to the lack of parts a 33 isn't the best choice for a long term mower??

Cheers

Andrew

Hi waikphys and all ODK member,

It's probably best that we discuss what needs to be done after you post up the photos.

I will say though that you are correct in saying that its probably not the best choice of unit as a daily driver due to the lack of parts availability. The Model 33 is not considered a later model, rather it's an earlier unit of the modern era as the Model 45 which superseded the 33 ran for over 25 years of production.

Looking forward to the photos

Cheers,
BB

Thanks for that, I meant later model as I thought I read that the early 33's were all chain whereas the later was belt and chain?....I'm no expert though!

Thanks for that, I'll be able to clear that all up for you once the photos have been posted up.

Cheers,
BB

33-4341 is the number on the ID plate, apologies for the photo!!

Hi waikphys,

Well firstly thanks for the photos.

It certainly is a very dry machine and shows no kind of lubrication on any of the drive train components. Also that belt is really slack and needs to be tensioned up so that there's no slack in it and only about half an inch deflection on the non tensioner side (the long straight non impeded side of the belt)

I guess I have to ask the question, what do you really want out of this machine ? for it to be a daily driver for keeps or would you rather locate a model 45 that has basically all parts available ?

Cheers,
BB

Thanks BB, I actually had the tensioner bolt out at the time which explains the slackness of the belt. Lubrication wise I assume the chains should be well greased and the little oil holes on the clutch and shaft should be dripped into occasionally?

I have been asking myself the same question....I really want a good reliable 'daily driver', so am leaning toward moving ths one onto an enthusiast whilst it is still running and cutting really well...and possibly looking at a 45. I am confused by 45 prices as they appear to vary wildly.

As far as 33 maintnenace goes though, can the cylinders be rotated to use the back edge? ...and what s the easiest way to remove ie remove sprocket with a puller then.....


Cheers

Andrew

Hello again waikphys,

As far as lubrication is concerned I think you've hit the nail on the head. Those chains require some grease, but not too much as some people do go overboard and that's just not necessary. Make sure all the rotating points are well oiled and I think you'll find it will run a tad quieter to. A 3 legged puller is always an asset to have on hand and they aren't that expensive either at the Chinese tool shops

As far as buying model 45's is concerned there some people out there that are trying to extort huge amounts of money for a flogged out piece of snot, but every now and again you'll find a sensible priced unit, depending upon condition. I wouldn't pay anymore than $250 for a 17 inch machine that requires light attention or $80 for one that requires a substantial rebuild but is sound in it's basic structure eg. no cracked rails and a non smokey motor. Believe me they are out there and mainly turn up on Gumtree but you will need to be very quick and learn the art of haggling to get the price down out of the clouds and away from the dreamers that are just thinking of making an easy fast buck on something that needs a bit of cash spent on it.
I've missed out many a time on a good machine for $100 just because I didn't see the ad until 3 hours after it was placed, by then it's already gone to a new home, so I guess you've got to be a bit addicted to Gumtree so a while until you find one.


Cheers,
BB

Ok, I'll have to change my preferred search from Datsun to Scott bonnar
From what I can see, people want $6-800 for a really good 45 ie newish motor, sharp blades etc and then original ones still seem to be asking $300-ish.

Assuming the 33 works fine, has a newish motor etc.....is it likely to keep on kicking along for another few years provided I keep the lube and love up to it?

From the photographs, is anyone able to determine the type of reel bearings and if they need oiling.
Also any advice re how to remove/turn the blades would be greatly appreciated

Hi,

Honestly I wouldn't bother oiling those old bearing, just remove and replace with the newer sealed type unit. I'm pretty sure that they would be RLS5 bearings which if you go direct to a bearing shop you'll get them far cheaper than from any eBay seller that's for sure.

When you say about turning the blades are you saying that they are stuck rock solid, because if they are you will have to throw those bearings out as they are the old open type that let every bit of muck and moisture in, thus they cease up quite easily.
Let me know before we go any further.

Cheers,
BB

Sorry BB, I wasn't very clear there..
I wanted to know if you can swap the cylinder around so that the back edge becomes the front edge (I think I read that on here somewhere)
If that's the case, what are the steps for removing the cylinder?
I also wanted to know if you could tell from my pictures if I can oil my bearings or not?

Thanks again

Hi waikpyys,

The cylinder can't be turned around as it has a longer shaft on the driving side with a thread on the end of it to accommodate the drive gear.
Honestly why would you want to reverse the reel in the first instance ?

Cheers,
BB

because its sharper on the back edge?

Hello waikpyys, BB and ODK members and guests,

I would just like to make a note on reversible reel designed mowers:-

It is rare to find reversible reels on domestic reel mowers.
It was/is a common design feature on commercial machines - like gang mowers,
where reversing the reel can present a new edge if the existing edge is
damaged.

Typically, this feature is seen on machines where clearing and checking for
debris in the grass is impossible - as in fairways and parks. Here, a reversible
reel can prolong the service of the reel before it needs grinding. It is used
in conjunction with back-lapping.

On domestic machines, a good maintenance schedule involves regularly checking
the set, and back-lapping when necessary. Note, though, that back-lapping
cannot be used to sharpen a dull reel. Back-lapping is an edge maintenance
practice only.

-----------------------------------
JACK.