OutdoorKing Repair Forum Forums Repairs and Maintenance Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames Question On Scott Bonnar Cylinder Mowers Scott Bonnar 45 clutch slipping under load

Lucky I bought a new thrust bearing as the one that was in there took a beating to get it out.

Hi Dramapig,

There's a tool designed to remove internal bearings, it's called a slide hammer with an expandable shank (collar) on the end of it to grip inside the bearing hole and remove it without doing any physical damage to both bearing or clutch body.

Anyway you've got a new one on the way so just ensure it is lubed up well with grease before inserting it and it will last forever.

Honestly most of them survive rather well especially if they have grease in them and they really don't do much as they aren't really being loaded up apart from when the cutter clutch is disengaged. I've pulled many of them out re-greased them and away they go for the next umpteen years.

Cheers,
BB

Hi Deejay, BB,
I got the new parts today (I have been away for a few days). Already glued and clamped. Can't wait to grease up the thrust bearing and put her back together tomorrow when the Kwik Grip has dried. Selleys appear to have changed their product line and I used the Contact Grip (Vertical). Thank-you to you both for your help so far.

Here she is glued and clamped

BB, meant to say thank-you for your input re the thrust bearing also...really appreciate you guys sharing your experience. I am definitely going to invest in a slide hammer and cog pullers.

Hi dramapig,

That's exactly the best way of how to do the job. You're going to find that your machine runs somewhat smoother resulting from this repair job you've done and saved quite a bit of money in the process I'd say.

If you have any other questions no matter how trivial you might think they are I will only be too happy to help you from here onwards as DeeJay won't be available for a little while.

Cheers,
BB

Hi BB,

I have greased and inserted the new thrust bearing into the new clutch housing



Replaced the cork lining


Reassembled the clutch


Engine back on


Readjusted the clutch fork as per Deejay's advice in a previous thread HERE



What is the best way to reset and adjust the clutch lever assembly?

Hi dramapig,

The way of adjusting the clutch fork is to adjust the set screw that pushes against the clutch lever until the fork is just making the thrust pad touch the clutch cone with no play (as you already have preload on the cone via the internal spring) and then just back it off until there is the smallest amount of visible clearance between the pad and cone. This way you have full pressure contact within the clutch (via the internal spring) when the lever is released and full non engagement clearance within the clutch body and cone when the clutch is disengaged.

Ensure that the lock nut on the set screw adjuster is done up firmly to avoid any movement of the screw due to vibration and recheck the clearances.

You've done a great job all round from where I see it.

Cheers
BB

PS. Just one small thing and that is I would've painted the cone assembly so as to avoid it rusting as it's made of cast iron which will rust up straight away when exposed to the elements.